Login to enhance your online experience. Login or Create an Account
Logo
Shopping Cart

Shopping Cart 0 Items (Empty)

Toyota 1HD-FT engine factory workshop and repair manual

Tools & consumables
- Metric socket & ratchet set (3/8" & 1/2"), extensions, wobble/universal joint
- Torque wrench (0–150 ft·lb or 0–200 N·m)
- Breaker bar
- Transmission jack (preferred) or heavy-duty floor jack with wide plate
- Engine support bar or hoist (if removing transmission mount or engine support)
- Jack stands, hydraulic floor jack
- Pry bars, large flat screwdrivers
- Needle-nose pliers, pick set
- Line wrenches for cooler lines
- Drain pan, long funnel, fluid pump
- Clean rags, brake cleaner, shop towels
- New torque converter (OEM or quality reman), new converter-to-flexplate bolts (recommended)
- New transmission filter/seal kit (if dropping pan or opening transmission)
- New ATF (Toyota-spec automatic transmission fluid — consult TSB/owner’s manual for exact type, typically Toyota ATF Type T-IV on many Toyota autos)
- Thread locker (medium strength, blue) if factory used it (check manual)
- RTV or gasket (if removal of inspection cover requires)
- Replacement seals (rear crank seal or front pump seal) as needed
- Service manual or factory torque spec reference

Safety precautions
- Work on level ground; chock wheels and engage parking brake.
- Disconnect negative battery terminal.
- Support vehicle on quality jack stands; never rely on a jack alone.
- Support engine when transmission mounts are removed — use engine support bar or hoist to prevent engine dropping/tilting.
- Use a transmission jack with an adapter plate under the transmission pan/brace; never carry the transmission by fluid lines or electrical harnesses.
- Dispose of ATF according to local regs.
- Wear eye protection and gloves.

Overview of the task
You will remove the automatic transmission enough to access and remove the torque converter from the transmission input shaft, replace the torque converter (and any seals/bolts), then reinstall the transmission and refill/bleed the system.

Step-by-step procedure
1) Preparation
- Gather parts and tools. Have new torque converter and new converter bolts ready.
- Disconnect negative battery cable.
- Raise vehicle and support securely on jack stands. Chock front wheels if working on rear wheels.

2) Drain ATF (optional but cleaner)
- Place drain pan under transmission cooler lines or the pan. For large removal, many techs leave fluid in converter to avoid pump cavitation, but draining reduces mess. If you drain, be ready to refill more fluid later.

3) Remove driveshaft(s) / prop shafts
- Mark orientation for reassembly.
- Remove bolts and slide shaft(s) out of transmission output flange. Support shaft.

4) Remove transfer case (4WD) / disconnect transfer linkage if applicable
- For vehicles with a removable transfer case, lower or remove it to gain access to transmission rear. Support the case before removing.

5) Disconnect cooler lines, electrical connectors, and linkages
- Label connectors and hoses. Remove AT cooler lines from transmission (cap lines to reduce fluid spillage).
- Disconnect speedometer cable/electronic sensors and the shifter linkage.

6) Remove starter and any obstructing components
- Remove starter to access bellhousing bolts and torque converter access.

7) Support transmission and remove mounts
- Place transmission jack under transmission with a cradle plate. Secure that it supports the weight.
- Remove transmission crossmember and mount bolts.
- Loosen engine-transmission alignment components as required; support engine with engine hoist or bar if you must lower the transmission significantly.

8) Remove bellhousing bolts and separate transmission from engine
- Remove all bellhousing bolts (around the bellhousing). Use extensions/wobble as necessary.
- Pull the transmission straight back on the jack about 2–4 inches until the torque converter is partially disengaged from the flexplate and converter flange becomes accessible. Do not let transmission hang; keep it supported.

9) Remove torque converter bolts
- If you can reach converter-to-flexplate bolts through the inspection hole or by pulling transmission back far enough, rotate engine (use starter in brief increments with ignition disabled or rotate crank by wrench) to align bolt holes.
- Hand-thread a couple of bolts first, then remove them with ratchet or impact (use care; use hand tools when possible).
- Remove all converter bolts (typically 3 or 4 bolts — count and note pattern). Replace bolts; they commonly are torque-to-yield/grade and should be replaced.

10) Remove torque converter from transmission
- Once bolts are out, slide the torque converter straight off the transmission input shaft. That will require pulling the converter rearward while it comes off the pump drive and splines.
- Note: the converter usually contains fluid; be ready for spillage. Use drain pan.

11) Inspect mating surfaces and seals
- Inspect flexplate face for damage. Check starter ring gear and crank pilot.
- Inspect input shaft splines, front pump, and torque converter snout for wear or damage.
- If front pump seal or crank rear oil seal leaks, replace before assembly.

12) Prepare new torque converter
- Fill new torque converter with the correct amount of ATF (pre-fill). Many manufacturers recommend filling until fluid drips out of the hub or a specified volume — check converter data. Pre-filling prevents dry start and prevents cavitation of the pump.

13) Install new torque converter onto transmission input shaft
- Align and slide converter fully onto input shaft. You will feel three distinct “engagements” as it seats: first onto the input shaft splines, then into the front pump drive, and finally it will seat fully against the transmission face. Push until it bottoms — typically you will feel it move forward a few inches. It must engage fully; failure to fully seat will destroy the pump when started.
- Rotate converter while pushing to ensure splines engage smoothly.

14) Mate transmission to engine and install converter bolts
- Slowly slide the transmission forward carefully guiding it and allowing the converter to float into the flexplate recess. Before tightening bellhousing bolts, verify converter bolt holes align with flexplate.
- Thread converter bolts by hand (install all bolts finger tight). Tighten in a star pattern to manufacturer torque (see notes below). If you cannot access bolts after mating, you should have installed bolts when transmission was partially back earlier.
- Tighten converter bolts in stages to final torque.

15) Torque in stages and reassemble
- Torque converter bolts to factory spec. Then torque bellhousing bolts and mount bolts to spec.
- Reinstall starter, cooler lines, electrical connectors, transfer case/driveshafts, crossmember, and any components removed.
- Reinstall any seals/covers with new gaskets/RTV as needed.

16) Refill transmission fluid and bleed
- Refill ATF per factory procedure. Start engine, let it warm to operating temperature, cycle through gears with brake applied to circulate fluid. With engine running and level vehicle, check fluid at the proper temperature range and top as required.
- Recheck for leaks and proper operation. After a short test drive, recheck fluid level and torque on accessible bolts.

Tool usage notes (how tools are used)
- Transmission jack: cradle and raise/lower transmission smoothly. Align transmission to engine by adjusting tilt and height on jack. Use strap to secure.
- Torque wrench: use to torque converter bolts and bellhousing bolts to spec in incremental steps (e.g., snug → 50% → final). Use correct adapter to keep wrench accurate.
- Line wrenches: for cooler lines to prevent rounding the fittings.
- Breaker bar: to initially break loose tight bolts; switch to torque wrench for final torque.
- Extensions/universal: to access hard-to-reach bellhousing or converter bolts.
- Engine support bar: stabilizes engine when mount removed so front of engine doesn’t tip.

Replacement parts recommended
- New torque converter (OEM or reman)
- New converter-to-flexplate bolts (recommended)
- Transmission fluid (correct Toyota type)
- Transmission filter/seal kit if pan removed or service recommended
- Front pump seal or rear crank seal if worn/leaking
- Flexplate if cracked or damaged
- New gaskets/RTV where applicable

Common pitfalls & how to avoid them
- Not seating torque converter fully: leads to front pump failure. Always pre-fill converter and push until it bottoms. Count/feel engagement steps.
- Reusing converter bolts: many are single-use — replace them. Re-use increases risk of failure.
- Cross-threading bolts: hand-thread every bolt before torquing.
- Not supporting engine: engine can tilt and damage mounts or alignment dowels — always support engine if mounts are removed.
- Damage to pump or input shaft splines: avoid prying on the pump; align splines and rotate slightly to engage smoothly.
- Not torqueing bolts to spec: leads to loosening/failure. Use torque wrench and factory specs.
- Contamination: keep converter input and pump surfaces clean; cover open transmission openings to avoid dirt.
- Incorrect fluid/insufficient fluid: causes shifting problems and overheating. Use correct ATF and correct fill procedure/level at temperature.

Notes on torque specs
- Torque specifications vary by model year and transmission; always verify factory manual for exact values. Typical torque converter bolt torque on many Toyotas is around the 40–60 ft·lb range, but do not rely on a generic number — confirm in the service manual.

Final checks
- Verify no leaks, proper shift behavior, and fluid level after road test.
- Re-torque accessible bolts after a short drive if recommended by the manual.

Do the job methodically, keep work area clean, and follow factory procedures for safe, reliable results.
rteeqp73

You Might Also Like...

Kryptronic Internet Software Solutions