Tools & safety (brief)
- Tools: metric socket set, breaker bar, torque wrench, strap wrench or pulley holding tool, screwdriver/pry, pliers, drain pan, jack/stands if needed, replacement pulley (and pump if required), new belt(s) if worn, coolant.
- Safety: engine cold, battery negative disconnected, work on level ground, support vehicle if raised, catch coolant, dispose properly, use eye protection and gloves.

Ordered procedure with theory (concise)

1) Confirm fault and plan
- What you’ll fix: noisy/wobbly pulley, belt slippage, coolant leakage or overheating traceable to pump/pulley.
- Theory: the pulley transfers belt torque to the pump shaft. Noise/wobble means misalignment, bearing failure in the pulley/pump shaft, or a sheared key/loose fastening. Fixing restores concentric rotation and correct belt drive so the pump spins smoothly and seals remain effective.

2) Prepare engine & remove load
- Steps: let engine cool, disconnect negative battery terminal, drain coolant to below the pump level (collector/drain cock), remove fan shroud (and fan) or viscous fan clutch if it blocks access.
- Theory: removing the load and coolant prevents burns and gives access. Draining prevents coolant spill when the pump shaft is exposed.

3) Remove drive belts and accessory obstruction
- Steps: release belt tensioner(s) and remove serpentine/drive belts and any obstructing accessories (alternator bracket, air intake piping) so the pulley is accessible.
- Theory: belts must be off to free the pulley and avoid injury. Removing obstructions gives clear access for holding and unfastening the pulley.

4) Secure pulley and unfasten central fastener(s)
- Steps: use a strap wrench, holding tool, or an impact wrench to prevent pulley rotation; loosen and remove the central nut(s)/bolts that retain the pulley to the pump shaft. Note location of any woodruff key or spacer.
- Theory: the pulley is tightened to the shaft; you must stop it from turning to break the fastener torque. Inspect for key/keyway damage; a sheared key causes eccentric motion even if the nut was tight.

5) Remove pulley and inspect
- Steps: pull the pulley straight off the shaft. Inspect pulley bore, bearing (if separate), keyway, shaft journal, and pump shaft seal for play, scoring or corrosion.
- Theory: a worn pulley bearing or damaged bore will cause wobble. If the pump shaft or seal is damaged, the pulley replacement alone may not stop leaks or vibration—pump replacement may be required.

6) Decide repair (pulley only vs pump)
- Steps: if pulley bearing/bore is the only issue and pump shaft/journal/seal are good, replace only the pulley. If shaft is worn, bearing in pump is noisy, or seal leaks, replace the whole water pump assembly.
- Theory: the pulley is a driven component; if the driving/receiving shaft is compromised, a new pulley won’t restore concentricity or sealing. Replacing the pump restores internal bearings and seal integrity.

7) Fit new pulley (or pump) and torque
- Steps: slide new pulley onto shaft aligning any key, fit any spacer, then tighten central nut/bolts to manufacturer torque (consult service manual). If replacing pump, fit new gaskets/seals and torque pump mounting bolts to spec.
- Theory: correct seating and torque clamp the pulley concentrically on the shaft. The key prevents rotational slip; correct torque prevents loosening under cyclic belt loads. New pump replaces worn bearings/seals so rotational motion is smooth and leak-free.

8) Reinstall belts and tension correctly
- Steps: reinstall drive belts and set tension per spec (or adjust automatic tensioner). Ensure belt tracks correctly on all pulleys.
- Theory: correct tension transmits required torque without slipping or overloading bearings. Mis-tensioned belts cause noise, shaft loading, or accelerated bearing wear.

9) Refill coolant, bleed system, and test
- Steps: refill with correct coolant mix, bleed trapped air per Toyota procedure, reconnect battery, run engine to operating temperature, check for leaks, listen for noise, and watch temperature.
- Theory: bleeding removes air that otherwise causes hot spots and circulation loss. Running verifies concentric rotation, absence of vibration/noise, and that seals hold under pressure/temperature.

10) Final inspection & road/test
- Steps: after a short road/test, re-check fastener torque, belt tension, and coolant level.
- Theory: thermal cycles can change tension and seating; re-checking ensures long-term reliability.

How the repair fixes the fault (summary)
- Concentric rotation: replacing a warped or damaged pulley (or the pump) restores true concentricity so the belt tracks correctly and the pump shaft runs without lateral runout that causes vibration and wear.
- Bearings & seals: if bearings or shaft seals are worn, replacing the pump (or pulley bearing if separate) removes internal play and prevents coolant leaks.
- Fastening/key integrity: replacing damaged keys/spacers and torquing fasteners restores positive drive between belt and pump so no slip or eccentric loading occurs.
- Belt tension: re-tensioning prevents slip and excessive bearing loads. Together these restore pump flow, prevent overheating, stop noise, and stop leaks caused by shaft misalignment or worn seals.

Notes / cautions (short)
- If you find shaft endplay, scoring or seal failure, replace the pump rather than only the pulley.
- Always use OEM or equivalent parts and the factory torque specs. Improper torque/fit causes recurrence.
- Dispose of drained coolant responsibly.

No extra commentary.
rteeqp73

1HD-FT Exhaust - 24 valve symphony Pt 2 Sound isn't in sync sorry :/ G-turbo Cross Country Top mount 3 inch Exhaust Some engine/pump work.

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