Who: manual-trans 4Runner (typical Toyota layout). Do not do this without proper tools/experience — procedure below is direct and practical.

Tools & consumables
- Full metric socket/ratchet set (8–22 mm), deep sockets for bellhousing bolts
- Breaker bar, extension bars
- Torque wrench (range to at least 150 ft·lb / 200 Nm)
- Transmission jack or heavy-duty floor jack with adapter and wood pad
- Engine support bar or jack + 2x4 under oil pan (to support engine)
- Clutch alignment tool (vehicle- or spline-size specific) or reusable universal
- Pilot bearing puller / slide hammer or appropriate sockets
- Pry bars, transmission jack spreader
- Dead‑blow hammer
- Seal puller, snap‑ring pliers
- Wire ties, marker, rags
- Brake/clutch fluid, drain pan, gloves, safety glasses
- High-temp grease for splines, anti-seize
- New clutch kit (disc, pressure plate, release/throw-out bearing), pilot bearing/bushing, and usually a flywheel resurfacing or replacement
- New pilot/cover/pressure plate bolts if manufacturer recommends (often torque-to-yield bolts are single-use)
- New transmission input shaft seal and optionally rear main seal and transmission mount(s)
- Loctite (if specified by manual), shop manual for torque specs/patterns

Safety precautions
- Work on level ground. Chock rear wheels. Use good-quality jack stands or a lift. Never rely on a jack alone to support the vehicle.
- Disconnect negative battery terminal.
- Use eye protection and gloves. Keep hands clear when raising/lowering heavy components.
- Support the engine before removing the transmission — the engine mount on the trans side or front can shift and damage mounts/hoses.
- If working under the vehicle, ensure secure jack-stand placement under frame points.
- Cap hydraulic lines to avoid fluid ingress to interior and contamination.

Step-by-step procedure
1) Preparation
- Park level, chock wheels, disconnect negative battery.
- Raise vehicle and support on stands. Remove passenger-side wheel if needed (access to transfer case or drive shaft areas).
- Remove engine undercovers if present.

2) Drain & disconnect
- Drain manual transmission fluid (optional but helps reduce mess).
- Remove center/prop shaft(s) and/or front driveshaft as applicable for your model (mark orientation). Remove rear prop if it interferes with space.
- Remove starter motor (gives access to bellhousing bolts).
- Remove exhaust pieces if they block transmission removal.
- Disconnect shifter linkage, speedometer/cable or sensor, reverse light switch, electrical connectors, and clutch slave cylinder from bellhousing. Cap/plug hydraulic line to prevent fluid loss and contamination.
- Remove drive axles or disconnect CV axle(s) if they block or prevent transmission removal (4WD models may require transfer case removal or unbolting transfer case from transmission).

3) Support engine and transmission
- Place transmission jack under transmission. Support engine with engine support bar or jack under oil pan (wood pad to distribute load).
- Remove transmission crossmember and mount(s).

4) Bellhousing bolts
- Remove all bellhousing bolts (keep track of lengths/locations). There are often inaccessible bolts—reach from undercarriage and behind starter.
- Pry transmission away carefully using pry bar between bellhousing and block, but keep it supported by transmission jack. Do not pry on the crank or input shaft.
- Lower transmission slowly. Watch for snagged wiring, lines, or mounts.

5) Remove clutch assembly
- With trans lowered/removed, remove pressure plate bolts evenly, one turn at a time in a star pattern to avoid warping. Remove pressure plate and clutch disc.
- Inspect friction surface and flywheel for scoring, heat spots, cracks. If glazed or scored, resurface or replace flywheel. Also inspect pilot bearing/bushing and replace if worn.
- Remove pilot bearing with puller. Replace input shaft seal if leaking.

6) Inspect & prepare
- Check clutch fork, pivot, release bearing contact surfaces and replace if worn. Replace release/throw-out bearing (always replace with the clutch).
- Clean flywheel and crank mating surfaces with brake cleaner. Do not use oily rags on clutch surfaces.
- If flywheel resurfaced, ensure runout and flatness are acceptable. Check dowel pins are present.

7) Install pilot bearing & flywheel (if replaced/resurfaced)
- Press new pilot bearing into crank nose using proper driver; do not hammer directly on bearing race.
- Install flywheel (or resurfaced one). Use new bolts if required. Tighten in a criss-cross pattern to factory torque (consult manual). If flywheel bolts are torque-to-yield, use new bolts.

8) Install clutch disc & pressure plate
- Place clutch disc onto flywheel with friction surface and marking facing correct direction (usually "flywheel side" stamped on disc). Use clutch alignment tool through disc into pilot bearing to center it.
- Position pressure plate over alignment tool and start bolts by hand. Tighten bolts gradually in a star pattern to final torque in stages. Do not over-tighten. Use factory torque specs.

9) Replace input shaft seal & release bearing on transmission
- Replace the transmission input shaft seal on the case before reassembly if removed.
- Clean the splines of the transmission input shaft. Lightly grease the splines with high-temp grease where disc rides (avoid getting grease on disc or friction surfaces).
- Install new release bearing on the clutch fork/rail per model procedure — some systems mount bearing on trans input shaft, others on fork.

10) Reinstall transmission
- Using transmission jack, raise transmission and align input shaft to clutch disc. Slide transmission forward until bellhousing seats on engine. Use alignment tool to help guide splines — DO NOT force. If it won't slide in, back off, recheck alignment and dowel pins.
- Hand-start bellhousing bolts, then torque in appropriate sequence to spec.
- Reinstall crossmember and transmission mounts. Torque mount bolts per manual.

11) Reconnect everything
- Reconnect starter, shifter linkage, electrical connectors, speedo cable/sensor, reverse switch, driveshaft(s)/prop shaft(s), exhaust as removed.
- Refill transmission fluid to spec and level.
- Reconnect clutch hydraulic line/slave cylinder. Bleed clutch hydraulic system (two-person or one-person vacuum/pressure pump) until firm pedal and no air.

12) Final checks
- Torque all fasteners to spec, including flywheel, pressure plate, bellhousing, mounts, and drive shafts.
- Check for leaks (fluid, oil) especially at input seal and rear main (opportunity to replace rear main if leaking).
- Lower vehicle. Start engine, test clutch engagement in neutral, then test drive slowly checking for noises, smooth engagement, no slipping or grabbing.
- If clutch slips or chatter occurs, investigate flywheel surface, disc contamination, or pressure plate installation.

Common pitfalls & how to avoid them
- Not supporting the engine: results in motor movement and broken mounts/hoses. Always support engine properly.
- Misaligned clutch disc: use the proper-size alignment tool and make sure pilot bearing is clean and centered before installing. If transmission won’t slide in, stop—don’t force.
- Contaminating clutch surfaces: keep grease and oil away from clutch disc and pressure plate surfaces. If contaminated, replace clutch disc or thoroughly clean surfaces (cleaning often insufficient).
- Re-using worn parts: always replace throw-out bearing and pilot bearing/bushing; inspect fork and pivot for wear.
- Improper bolt torque/pattern: tighten in stages in star pattern and use correct torque specs; cross-threading or under/over-tightening causes failure.
- Not resurfacing flywheel: leaving a scored or heat-damaged flywheel will cause chatter or premature wear.
- Forgetting to bleed clutch properly: soft pedal or incomplete engagement will cause drivability issues.
- Damaging input seal when reinstalling transmission: use care and guide trans straight in; damaged seal will leak.
- Not replacing torque-to-yield bolts: if bolts are single-use replace them.

Parts typically required (minimum)
- Clutch kit: disc, pressure plate, release/throw-out bearing
- Pilot bearing or bushing
- Flywheel (or machine/resurface)
- Transmission input shaft seal (recommended)
- Clutch alignment tool (reusable)
- Possibly rear main seal and transmission mount(s)
- Bolts (flywheel and pressure plate bolts if specified single-use)

Time estimate & difficulty
- Professional shop: 3–6 hours. DIY under-hood: 6–12 hours depending on experience and 4WD complications.
- Difficulty: moderate to high. Requires heavy lifting, alignment, and careful torqueing.

Notes on tool usage specifics
- Transmission jack: cradle trans, lift/lower slowly, and use guide bars to align. Never rely on a floor jack alone.
- Clutch alignment tool: insert through clutch disc into pilot bearing until disc is centered; pressure plate bolting is done while alignment tool holds disc in place. Remove tool before final test fit of transmission if it blocks input shaft insertion.
- Pilot bearing puller: attach jaws or socket to press out bearing; do not score crank bore—use correct-size tooling.
- Torque wrench: tighten bolts in stages and star pattern; verify torque after initial run-in.

End.
rteeqp73

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