Quick summary: replacing the transmission filter on a Toyota 4Runner is like changing the engine oil filter for the transmission — you remove the pan, replace the internal strainer/filter and pan gasket, clean the pan and magnet, then refill and check fluid level. Do it on a model that has a serviceable pan/filter (many older and mid‑2000s 4Runners do). Read and follow your specific year/model factory procedure and torque values — I give safe methods and typical ranges below.

Safety first
- Work on a flat surface. Chock wheels, set parking brake.
- Lift with a proper jack and support on rated jack stands (never rely on the jack).
- Wear gloves and eye protection. Transmission fluid is hot if recently driven.
- Have an appropriate drain container and know how to dispose of used ATF legally.
- If you feel unsure at any point, stop and consult a shop manual or a pro.

Why this repair is needed (theory, analogies)
- The transmission pumps automatic transmission fluid (ATF) through the gearbox and valve body to lubricate, cool, and provide hydraulic pressure for gear changes. Think of the transmission as a circulatory system and ATF as the blood. The filter is the sieve that prevents metal particles and clutch material from recirculating — like a strainer in the blood supply.
- Over time the filter clogs and the magnet in the pan collects metal shavings. If the filter is clogged or dirty, hydraulic pressure and fluid flow suffer, producing slipping, harsh shifts, overheating, or internal wear. Replacing the filter and cleaning the pan helps restore proper flow and prevents contaminants from causing expensive failures.
- If you find a lot of metal (ferrous flakes/large chunks) or burnt smelling fluid, that points to significant internal wear; a filter change may not be sufficient — further diagnosis or rebuild may be required.

Major components you’ll see and what each does
- Transmission pan (sump): shallow metal pan bolted to the bottom that collects ATF and provides access to the filter; often has a magnet inside to collect ferrous metal.
- Pan gasket (or RTV sealant): seals pan to case to prevent leaks.
- Filter / strainer (serviceable): paper/screen element mounted to the valve body/pickup; catches debris before fluid reaches the pump/valves.
- Filter fasteners or O‑ring: bolts or clips that secure the filter; some filters have an O‑ring seal.
- Magnet(s): small magnets either on the pan or bolted to the pan to attract metal particles.
- Pump pickup / pickup tube: draws fluid from the pan into the pump — the filter sits in series with or just after this path.
- Valve body (visible when filter removed): directs hydraulic flow; contains solenoids and passages — avoid contaminating or dislodging parts.
- Dipstick/filler tube: where you add/check ATF.
- Transmission cooler lines (on the radiator): external lines to the transmission cooler; you may disturb them but usually do not need to disconnect.

Tools & parts (typical)
- Jack and rated jack stands; wheel chocks.
- Drain pan, rags, gloves.
- Socket set (commonly 10mm, 12mm, etc.), ratchet, extension. Torque wrench.
- Scraper or gasket remover tool, brake cleaner or ATF‑safe solvent.
- New transmission filter (correct for your year/model) and new pan gasket (or recommended RTV).
- Correct ATF type and quantity for your model (see below).
- Replacement pan bolts if needed; thread locker if specified.
- Funnel and clean hose for refilling, if desired.
- Optional: torque bit for any special bolts, small pick for O‑ring.

Correct ATF type (important)
- Toyota 4Runners use different ATF depending on year/ transmission:
- Older models (many pre‑2003) typically use Toyota Type T‑IV ATF.
- Many 2003+ Toyota automatics (with A750F 5‑speed transmissions) use Toyota ATF WS.
- Always confirm the correct ATF for your specific model/year/engine in the owner’s manual or Toyota shop manual. Wrong fluid can cause shifting problems or damage.

Step‑by‑step procedure (general — follow your vehicle manual where it differs)
1) Warm up the car
- Drive briefly to bring ATF to normal operating temperature — warm fluid drains easier and suspends debris. Park on level ground, engage parking brake, shut off engine.

2) Safety/setup
- Chock wheels, lift vehicle and support securely on jack stands placed under the frame or recommended lift points. Ensure plenty of room under the pan.
- Place drain pan under the transmission pan.

3) Remove obstructions
- Remove any skid plate or splash shields blocking access to the pan.
- If the pan has a drain plug, you can use it to drain some ATF first. Many Toyota pans do not have a convenient drain plug; be prepared for fluid to spill when you loosen the bolts.

4) Loosen pan bolts
- Break all the pan bolts loose while you have good access. Leave a couple of bolts at one short edge partially threaded to act as a hinge.
- Slowly loosen the remaining bolts a few turns in a pattern to control fluid release. Tip the pan down at the hinge side and allow fluid to flow into your drain pan.

5) Remove pan and inspect
- Remove the pan completely. Expect still to be 1–2 quarts of fluid inside.
- Observe and carefully handle the magnet(s) — wipe them clean using paper towels; note the color/amount of metallic debris (fine flakes normal, large chunks bad).
- Clean the pan thoroughly with ATF‑safe solvent. Scrape old gasket material from the pan flange and transmission mating surface gently — do not gouge the surfaces.

6) Remove the old filter / strainer
- The filter is usually secured with 2‑3 bolts or a snap. Remove the bolts and carefully pull the filter straight out. Some are a simple cup/strainer that slides off a pickup.
- Inspect filter — if it’s clogged, dark, or contains large particles, note that (it suggests internal wear).

7) Inspect valve body and pickup
- Look for loose components, heavy metal debris, or broken pieces. Do not poke deep into valve body passages. If you see large metal pieces, internal damage is likely — stop and consider professional diagnosis.

8) Install new filter
- Position the new filter, using any new O‑rings or seals supplied. Tighten filter bolts to the specified torque (see manual). If no torque specified on the part, snug them evenly — avoid overtightening and cross‑threading.
- Ensure the filter seats flush and the pickup tube engages properly.

9) Replace pan gasket and pan
- Either install a new gasket or apply the specified bead of RTV sealant (follow the product instructions). Many recommend a new preformed gasket for reliability.
- Position pan and start bolts by hand to avoid cross‑threading. Tighten bolts in a crisscross pattern gradually and evenly to the factory torque. Typical pan bolt torque ranges (check manual): ~5–10 ft‑lb (7–13 N·m) — but confirm exact value for your vehicle model.
- Reinstall any drain plug if equipped and the skid plate/splash shield.

10) Refill with ATF
- Add the correct ATF through the dipstick/filler tube. Fill with roughly the amount you drained minus what the filter/pan still held, then you will top off after warming. Typical pan/filter service uses 3–6 quarts depending on model; consult manual. Add fluid slowly.
- Use a funnel and clean hose to avoid spills.

11) Initial check & bleed (warm up)
- Start the engine, let it idle. With the parking brake on and the engine warm, cycle the shifter through all gears (with pause in each) to circulate fluid and release trapped air. Then return to Park or Neutral to check level.
- With engine at idle and at operating temperature, check transmission fluid level at the dipstick with the transmission in Park (follow exact checking procedure in your vehicle manual — Toyota typically specifies a “hot” level check).
- Add small amounts if low. Do not overfill — overfilling causes foaming and shifting issues.

12) Final steps and test drive
- With level correct and no leaks under the car, lower the vehicle and road test. Test for normal shifting through all gears. Recheck fluid level and leaks after road test and again after a short drive.

Common problems and what can go wrong
- Leaks after reassembly: caused by old/damaged gasket, uneven bolt torque, damaged pan flange, or using wrong sealant. Fix by re-torquing to spec, replacing gasket, or resurfacing/replacing pan if badly damaged.
- Overfilling/underfilling: causes foaming or poor shifting. Always check level at the specified temperature and gear position.
- Cross‑threaded or stripped pan threads: avoid overtightening bolts. If threads are stripped, you may need helicoil/insert or a replacement case — costly repair.
- Wrong ATF: causes slipping, harsh shifts, or internal wear. Always use manufacturer‑specified fluid.
- Large metal particles in pan or filter: indicates internal failure (clutch pack or gear damage). Filter change alone may not be enough — further diagnosis or rebuild likely needed.
- Filter not seated or bolts loose: causes suction of air or leaks; leads to loss of line pressure and slipping.
- Disturbing valve body components: can create serious shifting problems; avoid unnecessary disassembly unless you have the manual/experience.

Tips for a beginner
- Keep bolts in a tray and mark bolt lengths/locations — some pans have different length bolts.
- Clean the magnet(s) and note what’s on them; a moderate amount of fine coppery/steel dust is normal, big shards are not.
- Tighten pan bolts incrementally and in a crisscross sequence to avoid warping.
- If pan gasket is compressed or stuck, replace it rather than reusing.
- Use hand tools, not air tools, for final tightening to avoid overtorque.
- Have a good parts diagram or OEM part numbers when buying the filter and gasket — aftermarket parts can vary.

When to get professional help
- You find large metal chunks, burnt fluid, or continuous slipping after service.
- You’re unsure about torque specs or refill procedure for your model. (Different transmissions and years have different fill/check methods.)
- The case/pan threads are damaged.

Final notes
- This is a routine but important service that protects the entire transmission. Do it carefully, follow factory specs where available (especially ATF type and torque values), and pay attention to what you find in the pan and on the magnet — that information tells you about internal wear.
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