Verify first: many newer 4Runners use electronic throttle control (drive‑by‑wire) and have no mechanical throttle cable. Do this procedure only if your 4Runner has a mechanical accelerator (throttle) cable.

Tools needed
- Basic metric socket set (8–14 mm), ratchet, extensions
- Combination wrenches (8–14 mm)
- Phillips and flat screwdrivers
- Needle‑nose pliers and snap‑ring/clip pliers
- Adjustable wrench or small spanner for the cable locknut
- Flashlight or inspection lamp
- Wire brush and penetrating oil (if bolts are corroded)
- Cable lubricant (white lithium or teflon spray lube)
- Replacement throttle cable (OEM or exact-fit aftermarket) and firewall grommet if worn
- Rag, gloves, eye protection, wheel chocks

Safety precautions
- Park on level ground, set parking brake, chock wheels.
- Engine OFF, key out of ignition. Let engine cool.
- Disconnect negative battery terminal when working near wiring or when removing dash components — especially if airbag systems are nearby. Reconnect when done.
- Keep fingers clear of throttle lever while testing.
- Don’t modify or splice the cable. Replace with a proper part if damaged.

Step‑by‑step: removal, install, adjust, test

1) Confirm cable exists and plan access
- Open hood and locate the cable running from the firewall to the throttle body linkage. On the intake side the cable usually sits in a small bracket and connects to the throttle lever with a clevis/ball end and retaining clip.
- Note routing through the firewall and any clips or guides; take photos for reference.

2) Prepare vehicle
- Chock wheels, set parking brake, disconnect negative battery if you’ll be removing dash pieces or are near electrical connectors.

3) Remove air-intake ducting for access
- Loosen clamps on the air intake resonator/duct and move the intake tube out of the way so you can see the throttle body and cable bracket.

4) Disconnect cable at throttle body
- Locate the cable end at the throttle lever. Remove the retaining clip (needle‑nose or clip pliers) and slide the clevis/ball end off the throttle shaft.
- Loosen the cable bracket adjuster nut(s) and any bolts that secure the cable bracket to the intake manifold/throttle body. Remove the bracket so the cable can be routed out.

5) Disconnect cruise control (if equipped)
- If a separate cruise control cable connects to the throttle lever, note its attachment and either unbolt or unclip it from its bracket — don’t mix it with the accelerator cable.

6) Remove cable from firewall and pedal
- Inside the cabin, drop the lower dash/trim panel below the accelerator pedal (usually held by screws/clips). Locate the cable end on the accelerator pedal.
- Remove the retaining clip or the plastic end fitting from the pedal pivot and pull the cable out of the pedal arm.
- From the engine bay, pull the cable out through the firewall grommet. If grommet is brittle, remove and replace.

7) Inspect and compare parts
- Compare the old cable to the replacement. Check length, end fittings and routing. Replace firewall grommet and any bent/ruined clips. Lube the new cable sheath and inner wire lightly.

8) Install new cable (reverse removal with care to routing)
- Route new cable through firewall into cabin following the same path and using the same clips/grommet. Ensure grommet seals properly and cable sheath isn’t pinched.
- Attach cable end to the accelerator pedal: engage the terminal on the pedal arm and install the retaining clip so it cannot pull free. Verify pedal movement is smooth and returns fully.

9) Attach cable to throttle body and secure bracket
- In engine bay, seat the cable end on the throttle lever clevis/ball and install the retaining clip. Slide the cable into its bracket, align, and loosely secure bracket bolts. Do not fully tighten until adjustment is done.

10) Pre‑adjust and set freeplay
- Most throttle cables require a small amount of freeplay so the throttle plate rests on its idle stop. Back off the adjuster so there is a small amount of slack. Typical target: a slight play at the pedal before the throttle begins to open (visually, ~2–4 mm at the throttle lever or roughly 1/8–1/4" pedal play). Check OEM spec if available for your year.
- Tighten the locknut on the adjuster lightly to hold the setting.

11) Fine adjust and tighten
- With engine OFF, press pedal to full travel and release to confirm no binding and full return. Check that throttle plate hits idle stop and does not hold open.
- Adjust using the adjuster nut: turn to remove excess slack until the desired minimal freeplay is achieved, then hold the adjuster and tighten locknut with wrench while preventing the adjuster from turning.

12) Reassemble intake and test start
- Reinstall air intake components and any removed trim panels. Reconnect battery if disconnected.
- Start engine. With engine at idle observe throttle plate/idle speed. Use your hand to slightly move the cable at the throttle lever to confirm immediate response and full return. If idle increases when you pull slightly on cable, cable is too tight — re‑adjust to reintroduce a little freeplay.

13) Road test and final check
- With vehicle stationary, check cruise control operation (if equipped) after reconnecting. Then perform slow road test, checking throttle response and that no binding occurs at full lock and full pedal travel. Recheck all fasteners and locknuts after test.

Tool usage specifics and tips
- Needle‑nose pliers: slide and remove small retaining clips on clevis; be careful not to deform clip. Use flat screwdriver to pry clip gently if stuck.
- Adjustable wrench / spanner: used to hold adjuster while tightening the locknut — use the correct sized box/open wrench to avoid rounding nuts.
- Screwdrivers: remove trim panels and intake clamps—use the correct head to avoid stripping.
- Penetrating oil & wire brush: remove rusted bracket bolts; apply penetrating oil and let soak before trying to loosen.
- Cable lube: spray the inner wire where it enters the sheath (not excessive) and exercise the cable so lube distributes.

Common pitfalls to avoid
- Attempting this on a drive‑by‑wire model — there is no cable. Verify first.
- Over‑tightening the cable (no freeplay) — results in high idle and possible damage to throttle plate or cruise control issues.
- Routing the cable where it rubs against hot or moving parts — causes premature wear or seizing.
- Forgetting to replace a damaged firewall grommet — cable will chafe and fail.
- Reusing a frayed or kinked cable — replace it.
- Not re‑checking after road test — thermal expansion or settling can change adjustment.
- Losing small retaining clips — have replacements before starting.

Replacement parts typically required
- Correct model/year throttle cable (OEM part or exact-fit aftermarket). Order by year, engine and transmission if necessary.
- Firewall grommet (if cracked or missing).
- Small retaining clip(s) and any worn mounting clips/brackets.
- Optionally replace throttle body bracket hardware if rusted.

Final verification
- Throttle returns cleanly to idle stop with no binding.
- Minimal, specified freeplay present.
- Smooth operation from pedal to throttle lever and no unusual noises.
- Cruise control (if equipped) works normally.

Done.
rteeqp73

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