Overview — what this repair fixes and why
- Purpose: The clutch slave cylinder converts hydraulic pressure from the clutch master cylinder into linear motion that moves the clutch release mechanism so the transmission input shaft can be disconnected from the engine for shifting. Replacing a failed slave restores proper clutch operation.
- Why it fails: internal seal wear, corrosion, contamination, or physical damage cause leaks or stuck piston. When the slave leaks or is air-filled the pedal goes soft or sinks to the floor, or the clutch won't disengage/engage reliably.
- Analogy: think of the hydraulic circuit as a water-filled syringe system. The clutch pedal pushes on the master syringe plunger, forcing fluid down a hose to the slave syringe; the slave plunger moves out and pushes the release fork/throwout bearing. If the slave syringe leaks or has air in it, the plunger won’t move reliably.

Which 4Runner it applies to
- Toyota 4Runners have used both external (bellhousing-mounted) slave cylinders and concentric/internal slave cylinders (CSC) located around the input shaft inside the bellhousing. The steps below cover the common external slave replacement in detail and include an outline for CSC/internal replacement (which requires transmission removal). Always verify your model year and transmission type before starting.

Safety and prep
- Work on a flat surface. Chock wheels, set parking brake.
- Wear eye protection and gloves. Brake/clutch fluid is corrosive to paint and harmful on skin.
- Use a strong floor jack and rated jack stands. Never rely on a hydraulic jack alone.
- Have a drip pan and rags ready and clean the area of spilled fluid immediately.
- Have the vehicle’s service manual or torque specs handy for exact values and any model-specific steps.

Parts and supplies
- Replacement slave cylinder (OEM or equivalent specific to your 4Runner year and trans)
- Replacement banjo bolt and crush washers if your slave uses a banjo fitting (many do) — always use new copper washers
- Fresh DOT brake fluid (DOT 3 or DOT 4 per Toyota spec — check manual)
- Small bleed-fitting cap or new bleeder screw if the old one is damaged
- Optional: vacuum bleed kit or one-way bleed bottle
- Replacement hardware if damaged, anti-seize/sealer for bolts only where appropriate per manual
- Rags, catch pan, gloves, safety glasses

Tools
- Metric socket set, ratchet, extensions
- Wrenches including a line wrench for hydraulic fittings
- Pliers, screwdrivers
- Torque wrench
- Jack and jack stands
- Bleeder hose and clear catch bottle
- Brake cleaner
- Wire brush for cleaning mounting faces
- Penetrating oil for stuck bolts

Components you’ll encounter and what they do
- Clutch pedal: mechanical input from driver.
- Master cylinder (in engine bay, with fluid reservoir): converts pedal force to hydraulic pressure.
- Hydraulic line (rubber/steel): carries fluid/pressure to slave.
- Slave cylinder (external or concentric/internal):
- External: small cylinder bolted to trans bellhousing; piston pushes on clutch fork or release arm.
- Concentric (CSC/internal): sleeve-shaped cylinder that sits around the transmission input shaft and directly pushes the release bearing.
- Clutch release fork and fork pivot (external setup): transfers slave motion to throwout bearing.
- Throwout (release) bearing: contacts the clutch pressure plate to disengage the clutch.
- Transmission bellhousing and input shaft: host many of these components.
- Bleeder screw on slave: allows air to be bled from the system.

How the hydraulic system works (simple)
- Pedal -> master piston pushes fluid -> fluid flows through line -> slave piston moves -> release fork/throwout bearing moves -> pressure plate releases clutch disc.
- It’s a closed, incompressible-fluid system. Any air acts like compressible gas and ruins pedal feel.

Symptoms that indicate slave cylinder failure
- Soft or sinking pedal.
- Clutch doesn’t disengage fully (grinding when shifting or car stalls when clutch depressed).
- Visible fluid leak at slave cylinder or under vehicle.
- Low fluid level in clutch reservoir (without external leak elsewhere).
- Spongy feeling, inconsistent engagement point.

Step-by-step: External slave cylinder replacement (common, beginner-level)
Estimated time: 1–3 hours depending on access and rust/seized bolts.

1) Preparation
- Park, chock, disconnect negative battery terminal (optional but reduces risk).
- Open hood: find clutch fluid reservoir (shared with master cylinder) and remove cap. Top up if low to reduce air entry. Keep cap off but covered to avoid contamination while you work.
- Raise front or driver side of vehicle so you can access the slave at the bellhousing (some 4Runners require raising the vehicle enough to access under the engine). Support with jack stands.
- Place drip pan under the slave and under any hydraulic lines you’ll open.

2) Identify and inspect
- Locate the slave on the transmission bellhousing. Identify the hydraulic line fitting (banjo bolt or flare fitting) and the two mounting bolts to the bellhousing, plus the bleeder screw.
- Look for a boot (rubber dust cover) over the piston; if split, fluid may be spraying.

3) Isolate the hydraulic line
- Clamp the line or pinch the rubber hose upstream if you can (use a hose clamp or line clamp) to reduce fluid loss, OR be prepared to capture fluid.
- If the fitting is a banjo bolt, remove the bolt and two copper crush washers and catch fluid. If it’s a flare fitting, use a flare/line wrench and be ready for fluid.
- Plug or cap the line or immediately reinstall the new fitting to minimize air entry where possible.

4) Remove slave
- Remove the bleeder screw cap and then the bleeder screw (if you need to compress the piston or drain it).
- Remove the slave mounting bolts (usually two). Penetrating oil may be needed if bolts are seized.
- Carefully remove the slave; there may be residual fluid in it — drop into pan. Clean mating surface on bellhousing with wire brush.

5) Install new slave
- Compare old and new to confirm fit.
- If banjo-style, place a new copper washer on each side of the banjo fitting, seat banjo and bolt, and thread hand tight first. If flare-style, thread the line until snug.
- Mount the slave to bellhousing with bolts — start threads by hand to avoid cross-threading. Tighten to spec (if you don’t have the spec: snug then torque to typical small-transmission-bolt range — see notes below).
- Tighten the hydraulic fitting or banjo bolt to the correct torque (typical banjo bolt torque on many Toyotas is in the ~20–30 N·m/15–22 ft·lb range, and slave mounting bolts often 20–40 N·m/15–30 ft·lb — verify with manual).

6) Bleed the system (crucial)
- Top up reservoir with correct DOT fluid.
- Two-person method:
- Person A sits in the driver seat and slowly presses clutch pedal several times, then holds pedal to the floor.
- Person B opens the bleeder screw slightly to let fluid and air out until fluid flows cleanly, then closes the screw while pedal still held.
- Repeat until no air and pedal feels firm. Keep reservoir topped up.
- One-person vacuum or pressure bleeder:
- Attach vacuum pump to bleeder, pump while observing fluid until no bubbles. Or use a pressure bleeder at the master reservoir per tool instructions.
- Gravity bleed is possible but slower: open bleeder and allow fluid to run until clear.
- Final: ensure bleeder screw is properly tightened, clean spills.

7) Check for leaks and reassemble
- Pump the clutch a few times and check for leaks at the line, banjo bolt, bleeder, and mounting.
- Replace any boots or seals.
- Lower vehicle, reconnect battery if disconnected. Road-test carefully: verify clutch disengages and pedal feel is correct.

Step-by-step: Concentric (internal) slave cylinder replacement — overview
Estimated time: 4–12+ hours depending on tools, experience; requires transmission removal.

- The CSC sits inside the bellhousing around the input shaft and usually is replaced when leaking/failed. Procedure outline:
1) Remove battery and disconnect wiring as needed.
2) Remove driveshafts (if 4WD), exhaust or cross-pipe as required for access, starter, shift linkage, speedometer cable/sensors, axles or halfshafts depending on model.
3) Support transmission with a transmission jack. Unbolt transmission bellhousing-to-engine bolts and carefully slide transmission back and down.
4) With transmission out, remove the old CSC from the clutch housing area (often held by 3–4 bolts, with hydraulic line attached).
5) Install new CSC, replace any seals or dust boots, and re-install transmission (reverse removal). Replace clutch input shaft pilot bearing if necessary and inspect clutch assembly for wear.
6) Bleed the system as above and test.

- Because transmission removal is involved, consider replacing the clutch/disk/pressure plate and throwout bearing at the same time if those parts are near end of life.

Bleeding tips and tricks
- Keep the reservoir full at all times during bleeding to avoid sucking more air in.
- Use clear hose on bleeder, submerged into fluid in a bottle so you can see bubbles.
- If pedal is still soft after many bleeds, suspect master cylinder failure, leaks elsewhere, or a cracked line.
- Do not reuse crushed copper washers; always replace.

What can go wrong and how to avoid it
- Stripped threads on banjo bolt or bellhousing: thread new bolts carefully; use correct torque; if threads are stripped consider helicoil or professional repair.
- Seizing bolts: apply penetrating oil and heat cautiously if needed. Use correct sockets and breaker bar.
- Cross-threading fittings: hand-start threads first.
- Introducing air: minimize time the line is open; cap lines; bleed thoroughly.
- Using wrong fluid: use the type Toyota specifies. Mixing different fluids can damage internal seals.
- Damaging paint: brake fluid will eat paint — clean spills immediately.
- Not spotting other wear: a failed slave sometimes indicates a worn clutch or master — inspect master cylinder and clutch components.
- Replacing CSC without proper tools or experience risks incorrectly aligning input shaft — consider shop help.

Testing after repair
- With engine off, press pedal: it should feel firm and return promptly.
- Start engine, with parking brake on, depress clutch and put vehicle in gear to ensure it disengages (wheels should not try to move — have chocks and a helper).
- Road test carefully: check for slipping, grabbing, noise, or leaks.

Disposal and cleanup
- Dispose of old fluid and parts according to local hazardous-waste rules.
- Clean tools and any spilled fluid with water and rag; brake cleaner is useful for metal parts.

Final notes and cautions
- Exact bolt torque and some steps vary by year and gearbox model; consult a Toyota factory service manual or trusted repair guide for your 4Runner year for specific torque numbers, sequences, and any special tools.
- If you run into severe rusted bolts, heavily corroded lines, or a seized transmission-to-engine bolt, don’t force it — stop and assess. Damaged bellhousing threads or broken bolts may require drilling/tapping or professional help.
- If the clutch pedal remains soft after bleeding and checking for leaks, the master cylinder is likely bad and should be tested/replaced.

Typical time and difficulty
- External slave cylinder: moderate, beginner-to-intermediate, 1–3 hours.
- Concentric/internal slave: advanced (requires transmission removal), several hours to a day, or better left to a shop if you’re new.

That’s a compact, practical walkthrough: identify whether your 4Runner has an external slave or CSC, gather tools/parts, follow the step-by-step removal, install new cylinder, bleed thoroughly, check for leaks and correct pedal feel, and test-drive.
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