Safety first (brief):
- Work only on a cold engine. Hot coolant/steam causes severe burns.
- Wear gloves/eye protection. Catch and properly recycle coolant and any ATF from transmission cooler lines.
- Support vehicle securely if raised. Disconnect negative battery terminal when removing electrical connectors.
- Relieve system pressure by slowly opening radiator cap only when cool.

Ordered procedure with theory and why each action fixes the fault

1) Identify symptoms and confirm radiator is the fault
- Theory: Radiator problems cause overheating, coolant leakage, loss of coolant, poor heater performance, or visible corrosion/damage. Thermostat, water pump, fans or head gasket can mimic these. Confirm by pressure-testing the cooling system and visually inspecting the radiator for leaks, crushed fins, or cracked plastic tanks.
- Why: Prevents unnecessary replacement; ensures you fix the component that actually fails.

2) Prepare vehicle and drain coolant
- Action: Let engine cool. Remove radiator cap. Place drain pan under drain petcock or lower hose, open petcock and drain coolant into container. If equipped with transmission cooler lines in the radiator, loosen and catch ATF in a separate container.
- Theory: Draining reduces spill and makes radiator removal possible. Coolant removal is necessary because radiator houses system fluid and removing it while full will spill and pressurize.
- Why: Prevents contamination, allows safe removal without fluid escaping, and isolates the radiator to inspect connection points.

3) Disconnect battery negative terminal and remove obstructing components
- Action: Disconnect negative battery lead. Remove air intake ducting, fan shroud, and any plastic covers that block access to radiator/media. On WJ, remove electric fan assembly bolts and unplug fan connectors; lift fan assembly off radiator as one piece.
- Theory: Electric fans, shroud, and intake components block the radiator and often must be removed for clearance. Disconnecting battery prevents shorting when unplugging fans/sensors.
- Why: Allows safe removal and prevents electrical damage.

4) Disconnect hoses, lines and sensors
- Action: Remove upper and lower radiator hoses (use pliers to release spring clamps or loosen screw clamps). Disconnect any bypass hoses, heater hoses if they route to the radiator, the transmission cooler lines (use line wrenches and have catch pan), and the radiator fan electrical connectors and temperature sensor(s).
- Theory: Radiator is the central junction for coolant flow — hoses and lines must be detached. Transmission cooler ports route ATF through radiator core; lines must be disconnected to free radiator.
- Why: Frees the radiator from system plumbing so it can be removed; capturing ATF prevents contamination and loss.

5) Remove radiator mounts and radiator
- Action: Remove mounting bolts/clips at top and bottom and any A/C condenser brackets if interfering. Lift radiator straight up/out. On some WJ models you may pull radiator forward; ensure condenser does not bind.
- Theory: Radiator is held by mounts and sometimes by the condenser assembly. Careful removal prevents damaging the condenser, fans, or transmission lines.
- Why: Removes the failed component and allows inspection/replacement.

6) Inspect related components and replace as needed
- Action: Inspect fan motors, shroud, thermostat, water pump, hoses, hose clamps, radiator cap, and cooling system flush. Replace brittle hoses and weak clamps; if thermostat or water pump shows wear, consider replacing while system is open.
- Theory: Cooling system failures often involve multiple aging parts. A new radiator alone may not fix overheating if other components are failing or the system is clogged.
- Why: Ensures the repair permanently fixes the root cause and avoids repeat failures.

7) Install new radiator
- Action: Compare old and new radiators (mounts, hose ports, transmission cooler fittings, sensor ports). Fit new radiator into place, secure mounting bolts, reinstall condenser brackets if needed.
- Theory: New radiator restores proper flow passages and pressure-containing surfaces; correct fit ensures proper airflow and clearance for fans and condenser.
- Why: Restores heat-exchange surface and structural integrity that was lost due to leaks/corrosion/cracks.

8) Reconnect hoses, lines and sensors; reinstall fans and shroud
- Action: Reattach upper and lower hoses with new clamps if needed, connect transmission cooler lines with new O-rings or seals, plug in fan connectors, install fan assembly and shroud, reconnect any sensor electricals.
- Theory: Proper sealing at hose and line connections is essential to hold system pressure and prevent leaks; fans must be correctly shrouded to create airflow through the radiator core.
- Why: Restores sealed coolant circulation and correct airflow, essential to prevent boiling/overheating and maintain operating temperature.

9) Refill and bleed the cooling system
- Action: Fill radiator/overflow reservoir with specified coolant mixture. With radiator cap off and heater set to hot, start engine and let idle until thermostat opens and coolant circulates. Squeeze upper radiator hose to release trapped air; top up as air bleeds out. Continue until bubbles stop and level stabilizes. Replace cap and run until normal operating temperature; verify fans cycle.
- Theory: Air pockets reduce coolant flow and create hot spots that lead to overheating. Bleeding ensures the system is fully filled and pressurized so heat transfer is continuous and controlled.
- Why: Eliminates air pockets that would otherwise cause boiling, overheating, and inaccurate temperature readings.

10) Pressure-test the system and check for leaks
- Action: With engine cool, use a cooling-system pressure tester to pressurize to the cap rating (e.g., 15 psi). Inspect all joints, hose connections, and radiator surfaces for leaks. Check transmission lines for seepage.
- Theory: Pressure testing simulates operating conditions and exposes leaks otherwise hidden at atmospheric pressure.
- Why: Confirms repair integrity before road use and prevents immediate re-failure.

11) Road test and final checks
- Action: Drive under normal conditions and monitor temperature gauge and heater performance. After cooldown, recheck coolant level and top up if needed. Inspect for any leaks or seepage.
- Theory: Real-world driving tests cooling under load and airflow changes absent on a lift.
- Why: Verifies the repair under working conditions and confirms no further air entrapment or slow leaks.

How the repair fixes typical faults (short explanations)
- Cracked plastic tanks or core leaks: Replacing the radiator restores a sealed pressure vessel so cooling fluid is retained and system pressure is maintained. Pressure enables higher boiling point and correct flow through the system.
- Clogged or internally corroded passages: New core restores coolant flow and heat-exchange area so heat moves from coolant to air efficiently; reduces engine operating temperature.
- Bent/crushed fins or blocked cores: New radiator restores unrestricted airflow through the fins, improving convective heat transfer to ambient air.
- Failed integral transmission cooler: Replacing radiator with correct unit restores transmission cooling circuit; prevents transmission overheating/contamination.
- Excessive air in system (after repair): Proper bleeding restores continuous coolant circulation, eliminating local hotspots and overheating.

Notes and disposal
- Use the manufacturer-specified coolant type and mixture ratio. Replace radiator cap if old. Recycle old coolant and any ATF appropriately.
- If overheating persists after radiator replacement, investigate water pump operation, thermostat, head gasket integrity, fan control relays, or blocked heater core.

No extra commentary.
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