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Jeep Grand Cherokee 1999-2004 WJ WG Factory Workshop Service Repair Manual download

Tools & consumables
- Basic hand tools: ratchet, extensions, 3/8" & 1/2" socket sets, combination wrenches.
- Torque wrench (range to cover 5–100 ft·lb).
- Magnetic pickup or long needle-nose pliers.
- Feeler gauges (if engine has adjustable lash) or feeler gauge set.
- Small flat screwdriver, pick.
- Shop rags, parts tray, marker/paint pen or masking tape.
- RTV or gasket sealant (if required by gasket type).
- New valve cover gasket(s).
- New pushrod set (matched set for your engine) — OEM or quality aftermarket.
- Replacement lifters and/or rocker arms (have on hand if pushrods failed).
- Hydraulic-lifter priming tool or long screwdriver/ratchet (see method below).
- Dial indicator or straight-edge + V-block (optional) for checking pushrod straightness.
- Engine assembly lube or clean engine oil for priming pushrods and lifters.
- Safety: gloves, eye protection, wheel chocks, jack stands.

Safety precautions
- Work on a cool engine. Hot aluminum covers/head/valves = burns.
- Disconnect negative battery terminal.
- Chock wheels, park on level surface. If raising vehicle, use jack stands — never rely on a jack.
- Keep hands/jewelry away from rotating components. Remove ignition key from ignition.
- Contain oil/fluids and clean spills to avoid slips.

Overview / applicability
- These steps apply to WJ-series pushrod engines (4.0L I6 and 4.7L V8) that use pushrods and rocker arms. If your engine is SOHC/DOHC or uses rocker shafts differently, consult factory manual. If pushrods bent because of valve/head damage, head removal may be required — this guide assumes only pushrod/lifter/rocker service.

Step-by-step procedure
1) Preparation
- Gather tools, parts, new valve cover gasket(s) and pushrod set.
- Disconnect negative battery terminal.
- Remove intake snorkel/airbox or anything obstructing valve covers.
- Label ignition coils/wires and remove coil packs on each bank so you can access valve covers (keep organized).

2) Remove valve cover(s)
- Remove any brackets or hoses attached to the valve cover.
- Loosen and remove valve cover bolts, lift cover free. Remove old gasket and clean mating surfaces thoroughly (use scraper carefully to avoid gouging).
- Inspect inside for metal debris — significant metal indicates deeper failure (stop and evaluate).

3) Expose rockers/pushrods & set engine position
- With valve cover off, rotate engine by hand (socket on crank pulley) to bring #1 cylinder to TDC compression stroke if you want to work in firing order/keep things organized. This is helpful for hydraulic lifter priming and reassembly order but not strictly mandatory if you mark location of every pushrod/rocker and maintain order.
- Note: mark or number each pushrod and its location (pushrod-to-rocker-to-lifter match). Use masking tape or parts tray with labeled holes. Never mix them if you plan to reuse.

4) Remove rocker arms / pushrods
- Loosen rocker arm mounting hardware progressively to avoid spring tension shock. Remove rocker arms or rocker arm assembly as the engine layout requires.
- Remove pushrods by pulling straight up; use magnetic pickup if necessary. Lay them in order corresponding to their bore/rocker location.

5) Inspect pushrods, lifters, rockers
- Check each pushrod for straightness: place on a known-flat surface or V-block and roll; watch for wobble. Alternatively use dial indicator across a V-block to quantify runout. Any visible bend or runout > factory tolerance = replace.
- Inspect ends for mushrooming/flattening. If ends are damaged, replace pushrods and inspect mating rocker/lifter surfaces.
- Inspect lifters for collapse or scoring. Hydraulic lifters that don't pump up or show scuffing must be replaced. If lifters are bad, replace as a set or at least those showing damage.
- Inspect rocker arms and studs for wear at contact surfaces. Replace worn rockers.

6) Cleaning & preparation for assembly
- Clean pushrod bores, oil passages and rocker area with clean shop rags. Ensure no grit enters lifter bores.
- Prime new pushrods with clean engine oil or assembly lube.

7) Installing new pushrods
- Install pushrods in their original positions (or if all new and you’ve numbered locations, follow numbering). Ensure they seat fully in the lifter cup and are centered in the rocker saddle.
- For hydraulic lifters: prime lifters before tightening rockers. Two common methods:
a) Manual prime: with rocker removed, place pushrod in lifter and push down a few times by hand (or use a long screwdriver to press into lifter) to work oil into the lifter plunger. Repeat on each.
b) Crank-priming: reassemble rockers loosely, reinstall coils/plugs removed so engine can turn, crank engine slowly with starter or by hand (compressor removed) in short bursts (no-start) to allow oil to feed lifters. Best practice: prefill lifter cavities with oil and rotate engine by hand while checking for lifter noise. If unsure, use a known priming tool or fill lifters with oil and seat pushrod to compress plunger before torquing.
- For solid/adjustable lash systems: bench-set or adjust lash per factory spec (see step 8).

8) Torque and valve lash
- Reinstall rocker arms and torque mounting hardware to factory torque spec and in the correct sequence. Do not overtighten.
- If engine uses adjustable rocker nuts/shafts and requires valve lash adjustment: set valve lash per factory spec using feeler gauge on the cold engine or as specified. A common technique: set lash with the cylinder at TDC on compression stroke for the valve(s) being adjusted.
- If hydraulic lifters: torque rocker arm bolts to spec with the pushrod seated and rockers correctly positioned. Then rotate engine through multiple revolutions and recheck torque/clearance as recommended in the factory procedure.

9) Final reassembly
- Clean valve cover mating surfaces and install new gasket(s). Apply any recommended RTV at corners if instructed by factory procedure.
- Reinstall valve covers, torque cover bolts to factory spec.
- Reinstall coil packs/wires, airbox, and any removed components.
- Reconnect negative battery.

10) First start & check
- Start engine and run at idle. Listen for abnormal noises (ticking). Some light noise may settle as hydraulic lifters bleed up; persistent tapping = recheck assembly.
- Inspect for oil leaks at valve covers and around rockers.
- After initial run, re-torque rocker bolts and valve cover bolts if the factory manual requires a re-torque after warm-up.

How the tools are used (specifics)
- Torque wrench: set to specified torque; snug bolts in sequence, then final torque. Use appropriate socket and short extension; avoid cheater bars on torque wrench.
- Feeler gauge: slip the gauge between rocker arm and valve tip for adjustable lash engines; adjust until specified clearance achieved while rocker is properly positioned on the cam/lifter.
- Magnetic pickup/needle-nose pliers: remove and install pushrods down lifter bores carefully to avoid dropping.
- Dial indicator/V-block: set pushrod on V-block, indicator over middle of rod, rotate rod to detect runout. If indicator moves more than small fraction of mm/inch, rod is bent.
- Hydraulic lifter priming (long screwdriver/ratchet): press pushrod into lifter several times to force oil into lifter plunger before torquing rockers.

Replacement parts recommended
- New pushrod set (replace all if one is bad).
- Valve cover gasket(s) (always replace when cover removed).
- Lifters (if collapsed, noisy, or scored) — replace at least the affected lifters; best practice is set replacement when pushrod failure occurred.
- Rocker arms or rocker studs/nuts if worn or damaged.
- Clean engine oil if contamination suspected.

Common pitfalls / things to avoid
- Mixing pushrods between locations — always mark positions and reinstall in same bore unless replacing entire set.
- Not priming hydraulic lifters — leads to noisy lifters on first start.
- Over-torquing rocker bolts — can break studs or warp parts.
- Reusing damaged valve cover gasket — causes oil leaks.
- Not inspecting lifters/rockers — replacing pushrods alone when lifters are bad will repeat failure.
- Dropping debris into lifter bores or oil passages — leads to further engine damage.
- Starting engine without checking for proper seating of pushrods/rockers — can bend new pushrods immediately if assembly was incorrect.
- Working on hot engine or failing to disconnect battery — burns or accidental cranking hazards.

Quick checklist before start
- All pushrods installed in correct bores and seated.
- Rocker arms/bolts torqued to factory spec.
- Valve cover gaskets installed and tightened.
- Coils/wires reconnected.
- No tools left in the engine bay.
- Battery reconnected.

Notes
- Always follow factory service manual torque values, sequences and lash specifications for your exact engine (4.0L vs 4.7L differences exist).
- If you encounter scoring, excessive metal, or bent pushrods from contact with valves, stop — head removal and full inspection of valves, springs and piston-to-valve clearance may be required.

Done.
rteeqp73

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