- Safety first
- Wear safety glasses, gloves, and steel-toe shoes.
- Work on a flat level surface, chock wheels, and always support the vehicle with rated jack stands — never rely on a hydraulic jack alone.
- Disconnect the negative battery terminal before starting to avoid electrical shorts and accidental starter engagement.
- Have a fire extinguisher nearby and use drip pans for fluids.

- Prepare and reference documentation
- Obtain the Toyota H140F/H150F/H151F service manual or factory workshop manual for exact bolt locations, torque specs, fluid types and capacities, and wiring/connector diagrams — torque numbers and some steps are model-specific and must be followed exactly.
- Have the parts breakdown/diagram so you know which parts are removed and need replacing or reusing.

- Major overview of the job (what you will do)
- Drain gearbox/transmission oil and related fluids.
- Disconnect driveshafts/axles, electrical connectors, shift linkages, engine/transmission mounts and crossmember.
- Support the engine, lower crossmember, support the gearbox with a transmission jack, remove bellhousing bolts, separate gearbox from engine and lower it.
- Inspect and replace wear items (seals, bearings, clutch or torque converter components, mounts) as needed.
- Install replacement gearbox/rebuilt unit/reassembled gearbox, torque to spec, reconnect linkages and wiring, refill fluids, test.

- Tools you need (every tool described and how to use it)
- Socket set (metric): deep and shallow sockets from 8 mm to 24 mm commonly. Use with a ratchet to remove nuts and bolts. Deep sockets reach recessed fasteners.
- Ratchet (1/4", 3/8", 1/2" drive): quick tightening and loosening. Use the correct drive size for the sockets to avoid rounding bolts.
- Combination wrench set (metric): open-end and boxed-end wrenches for nuts where sockets won’t fit. Use boxed end for more torque and less rounding risk.
- Breaker bar (long-handled): provides leverage for stuck bolts. Use steady pressure; do not jerk.
- Torque wrench (click-type, appropriate range): required to tighten critical bolts (bellhousing, mount bolts) to factory torque. Set to spec and tighten until wrench clicks.
- Screwdrivers (flat and Phillips): for hose clamps, electrical connectors, prying small clips. Use correct tip size to avoid camming out.
- Pliers: slip-joint, needle-nose, and locking (Vise-Grip). For hose clamps, cotter pins, and holding small items.
- Pry bar(s): separate gearbox from engine with controlled, even pressure; use gently to avoid damaging mating surfaces.
- Rubber mallet or dead-blow hammer: persuade components free without damaging surfaces.
- Hammer (ball peen): for light persuasion, not for precision.
- Transmission jack (or heavy-duty floor jack with adapter and blocks): supports and raises/lowers the gearbox safely. Transmission jacks have saddles and straps to secure the unit — essential for heavy gearbox removal/installation.
- Engine support bar or engine hoist (if required): supports the engine if motor mounts must be removed. Use a proper engine support or hoist to prevent the engine from dropping or shifting.
- Jack and jack stands (rated for vehicle weight): raise and safely support the vehicle. Use multiple stands on stable points.
- Drain pan(s): catch old gearbox oil and any spilled fluids.
- Funnel and fluid pump: for refilling gearbox fluid to the required level.
- Seal puller: remove old oil seals without damaging housing.
- Bearing puller/puller set: remove stubborn bearings or pilot bearings from shafts if replacing them.
- Snap ring pliers: remove and install circlips/snap rings inside the gearbox or on shafts.
- Clutch alignment tool (if manual transmission and clutch removed): aligns clutch disc to the pilot bearing when installing bellhousing/transmission.
- Transmission input shaft protector/guide sleeve (optional but helpful): helps align input shaft to the clutch/flywheel when sliding gearbox home.
- Shop light: good lighting to see fasteners and connectors.
- Wire brush and gasket scraper: clean mating surfaces of old gasket material and debris.
- Threadlocker (medium strength) and anti-seize: threadlocker for bolts that require it per manual; anti-seize on bolts that will be removed in future (use per manual).
- RTV silicone gasket maker and replacement gaskets: for cover seals if required.
- Torque angle gauge (only if the manual specifies torque-to-yield bolts by angle).
- Multimeter: test connectors and sensors during reassembly.
- Clean rags and brake cleaner/parts cleaner: clean parts and surfaces before reassembly.
- Replacement gearbox (new or remanufactured) or gearbox rebuild kit (if you intend to rebuild): the main replacement component.

- Extra tools you may need and why they’re required
- Engine hoist or support bar: required if engine mount bolts on the engine must be removed or transaxle removal changes engine position. Prevents engine sag and damage.
- Transmission jack with tilting head: makes aligning the output and input shaft angles much easier than a standard floor jack and reduces risk of dropping the gearbox.
- Pilot bearing/bushing puller and driver set: if pilot bearing is worn, it must be removed and replaced; a special driver aligns the new bearing flush without damage.
- Slide hammer: helpful if the gearbox or certain gears are corroded/seized and need persuasion.
- Impact wrench: speeds removal of stubborn bolts but use carefully; always finish critical bolts with a torque wrench to spec.
- Parts washer or ultrasonic cleaner: if reusing parts, to remove heavy grime and old oil from internal components.

- Preparatory steps before removing gearbox
- Park vehicle, chock wheels, disconnect battery negative.
- Drain gearbox oil into a drain pan, then remove drain plug and allow all fluid to drain.
- Remove any external linkages: shift linkage, clutch slave cylinder or hydraulic lines (plug lines to minimize fluid loss), speedometer cable or sensor, park/neutral switch wiring.
- Remove driveshaft(s) or CV axles per model procedure — mark orientation for reinstallation if necessary.
- Remove starter motor (makes bellhousing bolt access easier) and any wiring harness brackets attached to the gearbox or bellhousing.
- Support engine with engine support or hoist if engine/trans mounts will be loosened.
- Support gearbox with transmission jack and strap it to the saddle.

- Removal procedure (general; follow manual for bolt locations and sequence)
- Loosen and remove gearbox mounting bolts (crossmember/mount bolts) — keep nuts/bolts organized in labeled bags.
- Remove bellhousing bolts that attach gearbox to engine in a star pattern to relieve stress gradually.
- Carefully separate gearbox from engine: use pry bars at the designated locations if necessary, but do NOT damage the mating surfaces. Apply penetrating oil to stubborn bolts and let sit.
- Slide gearbox backward off the engine input shaft while supporting it with the transmission jack, guiding it straight back to avoid damaging the clutch/gear engagement splines.
- Lower the gearbox straight down on the jack and remove from under the vehicle.

- Inspection and parts that should be replaced (why and what)
- Oil seals (input shaft seal, output shaft seal, case seals): always replace because seals are disturbed during removal and likely to leak when reinstalled.
- Gaskets and O-rings: replace to ensure proper sealing.
- Bearings and synchros (internal gearbox wear parts): if gearbox was noisy, slipping, or grinding before removal, internal bearings, synchros, gears or shafts may be worn — replace or rebuild gearbox internals or buy a reman unit.
- Clutch kit (pressure plate, clutch disc, release/throw-out bearing, pilot bearing) — if manual transmission: always inspect and replace clutch if vehicle mileage or wear is unknown or if clutch components are contaminated with oil (which can happen when input seal leaks). A worn clutch will contaminate a new gearbox installation and cause premature failure/poor engagement.
- Pilot bearing/bushing: replace if worn — it centers the input shaft and prevents wear.
- Flywheel (resurface or replace): if heat spots, cracks, or heavy wear are visible; resurface to factory spec if reusing.
- Torque converter (automatic transmissions): inspect for damage. Replace or have reconditioned if slipping or shuddering symptoms existed.
- Transmission mounts and crossmember bushings: replace if cracked or collapsed — bad mounts cause misalignment and premature wear.
- Shift linkage bushings and cables: replace worn bushings to ensure proper shifting.
- Sensors and wiring harness connectors attached to transmission: inspect and replace corroded or damaged components.
- Transmission fluid: replace with correct type and amount per manual. Old fluid contains wear metals and contaminants.
- If gearbox was removed due to catastrophic failure (metal inside drain pan, burnt smell, grinding that came from internal gears), replacement of the whole gearbox (remanufactured or new) is recommended rather than partial repairs unless you are experienced in rebuilding transmissions.

- Installing the gearbox (general)
- Clean mating surfaces on engine block and gearbox housing; remove old gasket material with a scraper and wipe with solvent.
- Replace all seals and gaskets and lightly coat new seals with clean transmission fluid or assembly lube for initial protection.
- If manual: use clutch alignment tool to center the clutch disc on the flywheel before sliding the gearbox in.
- Raise gearbox on the transmission jack. Use a guide sleeve or careful hand alignment to engage the input shaft splines to the clutch/torque converter without forcing.
- Slide gearbox straight forward into bellhousing until bellhousing faces mate; install bellhousing bolts by hand to hold alignment, then torque in the correct sequence to exact specs using torque wrench.
- Reinstall crossmember and mounts and torque to spec.
- Reinstall driveshafts, starter, wiring, shift linkage, sensors, and any brackets you removed.
- Fill gearbox with the correct fluid to the specified level and type in the service manual. Use a funnel or fluid pump; check level per warm/cold procedure in manual.

- Testing and break-in
- Reconnect battery. Start engine and check for leaks, listen for unusual noises.
- Verify clutch engagement (manual) and shift through all gears with vehicle still safely supported (wheels chocked) to ensure gear selection works and no binding occurs.
- Lower vehicle, perform a cautious road test checking for leaks, shifting smoothness, and unusual noises.
- After initial short drive, re-check fluid level and torque on critical bolts after thermal cycling.

- Common pitfalls and beginner tips
- Never rush separation — damaging the input shaft splines, pilot bearing, or bellhousing face leads to expensive repairs.
- Label every connector and fastener group as you remove it for easier reassembly.
- Use a camera or phone to photograph bolt locations and connections before removal.
- If any bolt won’t budge, apply penetrating oil and let it sit; use heat cautiously if necessary (follow manual cautions).
- Replace consumables (seals, gaskets, clutch components) while gearbox is out — doing it now saves time and prevents re-doing the job.

- When to replace the whole gearbox vs. repair/rebuild
- Replace whole gearbox (remanufactured or new) if internal damage is extensive (lots of metal in fluid, broken gears, failed bearings, or catastrophic failure).
- Consider rebuild if gearbox is rare or expensive and you have access to a reputable transmission rebuilder; rebuild kit parts include bearings, synchros, seals, gears as needed.
- Replace with reman unit if you want a faster, reliable swap without dismantling internals — ensures seals, bearings, and wear parts are new.

- Parts checklist to buy before starting (common parts to have on hand)
- Replacement gearbox (new or reman) or rebuild kit.
- Input and output shaft seals; case gaskets; O-rings.
- Clutch kit (if manual): disc, pressure plate, release bearing, pilot bearing.
- Flywheel service or replacement (resurface if needed).
- Transmission fluid (correct type and quantity from manual).
- Transmission mount(s) and crossmember bushings.
- Shift linkage bushings and any serviceable connectors.
- Threadlocker and anti-seize as specified by manual.
- New bolts for critical fasteners if the manual specifies they are single-use.

- Final notes
- Follow torque values, bolt sequences and fluid types in the Toyota service manual — they are mandatory for a reliable job.
- If unsure at any stage, consult a professional technician; gearbox removal/installation is heavy and alignment-sensitive work.
- Keep the workspace organized, clean, and safe.


rteeqp73

How to Change Manual Transmission Oil – Toyota Landcruiser 80 Series In this video we show how to change the manual transmission oil of an 80 Series Landcruiser. The video applies to all 80 series ...

How to Change Manual Transmission Oil – Toyota Landcruiser 80 Series In this video we show how to change the manual transmission oil of an 80 Series Landcruiser. The video applies to all 80 series ...

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