Tools & PPE (minimum)
- Metric socket set (6–24 mm), deep sockets, swivel/extension.
- Torque wrench (range to 200 ft·lb).
- Breaker bar, impact gun (for removal only).
- Floor jack + transmission jack or second jack with wide saddle.
- Jack stands (4) rated for vehicle weight; wheel chocks.
- Spring compressor (for coil-sprung front), torsion-bar tool (Toyota-specific) for torsion-bar fronts.
- Ball-joint separator / pickle fork, pry bars.
- Hammer, punch, wire brush, penetrating oil.
- Brake-line pliers, zip ties, hose clamps.
- Punch/center punch, thread locker (medium), anti-seize.
- Measuring tape, marker; shop manual for torque specs/geometry.
- Safety: eye protection, gloves, steel-toe boots.

Safety precautions (non-negotiable)
- Work on a level, solid surface. Chock rear wheels. Use jack stands — never rely on a jack alone.
- Support axle with jack stands before removing springs/bolts. Keep hands clear of compressed springs.
- Use the correct torsion-bar unloading tool for Toyota torsion bars — do NOT try to unload torsion bars with improvised tools.
- Replace worn hardware (U-bolts, bolts) rather than reusing rusted parts.
- Follow manufacturer torque specs exactly on reassembly.
- After installation, initial test drive gently, then re-torque all suspension fasteners after 50–200 miles.

Overview / parts typically required
- Lift kit hardware (spacers, torsion keys, brackets, blocks) specific to the kit.
- New shocks with appropriate extended length.
- New U-bolts (rear leaf-block lifts).
- Brake-line extensions or longer flexible lines; ABS sensor extensions if needed.
- Extended sway-bar endlinks or sway-bar drop brackets.
- Bump stop extensions or new bump stops.
- Control-arm, track-rod, panhard/drag-link adjustable replacements if lift exceeds kit height.
- Transfer-case drop kit or driveshaft spacers/new driveshafts if required to correct driveline angles.
- New bolts/nuts (grade 8 where specified) and thread locker.

Step-by-step installation (general Toyota H-series transmission vehicles — apply kit instructions and factory manual torque specs)

Preparation
1. Read the lift kit instructions completely. Confirm kit matches vehicle year/model. Gather all replacement parts and tools.
2. Measure current ride height and record front/rear wheel center to fender lip for reference.
3. Park on level surface, chock rear wheels, disconnect battery if you will be working near sensors/wiring.

Front procedure — torsion-bar style (common on many Toyota 4x4s)
A. Unload torsion bars
a. Raise front; support frame on stands. Remove front wheels.
b. Use a torsion-bar unloading tool that clamps to the torsion bar spline at the cross-member bolt area. Slowly take the torsion bar load off the adjuster bolt (follow tool instructions). NEVER remove the adjuster bolt with the bar loaded.
c. Once unloaded, remove the adjuster bolt and then slide the torsion bar rearward out of the crossmember pocket.
B. Install torsion key / spacer
a. If kit uses new torsion keys (commonly to get lift), replace the factory key with the new taller key per kit instructions. Insert the torsion bar into the new key pocket in the opposite orientation as required by kit (mark orientation first).
b. Reinstall torsion bar into crossmember and reapply preload using the torsion-bar tool. Adjust to approximate factory ride height or kit-specified setting (do not over-tighten).
c. Torque adjuster bolt to factory spec.
C. Additional front kit items
a. Install strut-top spacers if included: support lower control arm with jack, remove upper strut nuts, insert spacer, reinstall nuts and torque to spec.
b. Fit sway-bar drop brackets or new endlinks. Install longer brake-line brackets or new lines; ensure no binding at full droop/turn.
c. Install new longer shocks. Torque upper and lower mounts to spec.

Front procedure — coil spring / strut-style
1. Support vehicle and remove wheel. Support lower control arm with jack.
2. Remove shock (lower and upper as applicable) and sway-bar link.
3. Use spring compressor or remove lower control-arm bolts so spring decompresses safely. Remove coil (or strut assembly).
4. Install new coil or spacer per kit. Reinstall strut top/spacer and torque upper nuts to spec.
5. Fit new shocks, sway-bar drop brackets/links, brake-line extensions.
6. Ensure steering stops, bump stops and CV boots have clearance at full droop/turn.

Rear — leaf springs or coil rear
Leaf-spring + block lift
1. Raise rear, support frame on stands, safely support axle with jack.
2. Remove wheels. Remove U-bolts (use penetrating oil; replace with new U-bolts). Lower axle slightly.
3. Place lift block between axle spring perch and leaf spring per kit orientation (note block taper direction).
4. Reinstall new longer U-bolts and torque nuts gradually and evenly to spec. Do not reuse old U-bolts.
5. Install extended shock absorbers, extended brake-line brackets or longer lines, and extended parking brake cables if necessary.

Leaf-spring + shackle lift
1. Support axle, unbolt rear shackle bolts and replace with kit longer shackles or relocated shackle plates per instructions.
2. Torque shackles to spec and proceed with shock/brake-line adjustments.

Coil rear
1. Remove shock, lower control arm/trailing arm bolts as required, replace coil springs or install spacers.
2. Reinstall shocks and brake-line extensions.

Driveline / transmission / transfer case considerations
- Lifting a vehicle changes driveline angles. Check front & rear driveshaft angles and slip-yoke travel.
- If rear pinion angle becomes too steep, install a driveshaft spacer, a transfer-case drop, or adjustable control arms/panhard to correct angle. For heavy lifts, a new longer driveshaft or CV conversion may be required.
- If transmission/transfer-case mounts are compressed or shifted during lift, inspect and replace transmission mount bushings or crossmember hardware if worn.
- Check shifter linkage/clearance for transfer case and transmission — lift can bind linkage; adjust as required.

Reassembly & checks
1. Reinstall wheels. Torque lug nuts to spec.
2. Lower vehicle to ground at normal ride height (do not fully support on stands for final torquing).
3. With vehicle on ground, torque all suspension fasteners to factory specs. (Final torquing must be done with suspension loaded.)
4. Check brake lines, ABS wiring, fuel lines for clearance; secure with zip ties and new brackets if needed.
5. Check steering centering and bump stop clearance; verify no binding in CV boots or drive shafts at full articulation.
6. Bleed brakes if brake lines were disconnected or if air entered the system.
7. Test drive slowly — check for unusual noises, vibrations; check for proper shifting of gearbox/transfer-case (H41/H42/H50/H55F). Re-check driveline vibration; if present inspect U-joints and pinion angle.
8. Re-torque U-bolts and suspension fasteners after 50–200 miles.

How specific tools are used (short)
- Torsion-bar tool: clamps to splined end of torsion bar and provides mechanical leverage to safely wind/unwind the bar while you remove/install the adjuster bolt or torsion key. Always follow tool instructions and factory sequence.
- Spring compressor: engage evenly across coils, tighten alternately in small increments until spring is safely unloaded from perch before removing top mount or lower control arm. Never work directly over a compressed spring.
- Floor jack/transmission jack: use to support and raise/lower axles, control arms, and transmission crossmember. Use a block of wood between jack and control arm to prevent damage and distribute load.
- Ball joint separator / pickle fork: use to dislodge ball joints or tie-rod ends when removing control arms/steering links. Protect rubber boots if reusing joints.
- Torque wrench: use for final tightening of all hardware to factory specs; don’t rely on feel.

Common pitfalls & how to avoid them
- Reusing old U-bolts: they stretch and corrode — always replace.
- Not correcting driveshaft angles: causes vibration and premature U-joint failure — measure and correct with drop/spacer/new shafts.
- Improperly unloaded torsion bars: can cause severe injury — use correct torsion-bar tool.
- Over-tightening or under-torquing hardware: re-torque on-ground to factory specs.
- Not extending brake/ABS lines: leads to line stretch/failure at droop or steering lock.
- Ignoring steering geometry: incorrect caster/toe causes poor handling — always do a professional alignment after lift.
- Cheap coil spacers that compress or fatigue — use quality springs or strut spacers designed for load.
- Forgetting bump stop modifications — potential to overextend suspension and damage components.

Replacement parts you should plan on installing
- New shocks sized for lift height.
- New U-bolts (rear).
- Brake-line extensions / longer flexible hoses.
- Torsion keys (if using torsion-key lift).
- Bump stop extensions or new bump stops.
- Sway-bar endlinks or drop brackets.
- Control arms, track bars, panhard bars (adjustable) if lift > 2–3" or if correcting geometry is required.
- Driveshaft spacer or new driveshaft/axles for larger lifts.
- All misc new hardware supplied by kit (bolts, washers, nuts) — use new grade hardware when not supplied.

Final notes
- Always follow the lift kit manufacturer’s step-by-step instructions first; the above is a comprehensive generic procedure. Use the Toyota factory service manual for vehicle-specific torque values and disassembly/reassembly sequences, and follow any service bulletins related to H41/H42/H50/H55F transmission/transfer-case linkage when lifting the vehicle.
- After installation, get a professional alignment and inspect/retorque after the first 50–200 miles.

No further questions.
rteeqp73

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