Short overview — why this repair is done
- Planetary gearsets are the heart of an automatic gearbox: they create the different gear ratios by changing which element (sun, ring, carrier) is driven, held or allowed to spin. If one or more parts fail (broken teeth, worn bushings, collapsed needle bearings, cracked carrier or excessive wear), gears slip, grind, won’t engage, or the gearbox makes metal debris and loses pressure. Replacing the planetary gearset restores mechanical ratios and load paths.
- Symptoms that point to planetary damage: metallic particles in the pan/magnet, whining or clunking under load, slipping in multiple gears, inability to select forward or reverse, burnt smelling fluid, low line pressure, sudden loss of drive. If you see these, replacing the planetary set is often required — sometimes along with clutches, seals and bearings.

Theory — how a planetary gearset works (beginner-friendly)
- Basic parts: sun gear (center), planet gears (several) mounted on a carrier, and ring gear (internal-toothed outer gear). Picture the sun in the middle, planets orbiting around it inside a ring — that’s exactly the common analogy.
- How ratios are made: any two of the three members (sun, planet carrier, ring) can be held or driven. Holding one and driving another forces the third to become the output at a different speed/direction. Example analogies:
- Tug-of-war: three teammates (sun, carrier, ring). If you pin one (hold it with brakes) and pull another, the third moves differently.
- Bicycle hub: selecting which part is held versus driven changes the effective gearing.
- In an automatic transmission the clutches and servos/brakes control which member is held or driven to select a gear. If the gears and bearings themselves are damaged, the clutches can’t transmit torque reliably even if hydraulic control is fine.

Components you will see and what each does (detailed)
- Sun gear: the center gear. It meshes with the planet gears and often slides on a splined shaft or input shaft.
- Planet gears (pinions): typically 3 or 4 small gears that orbit the sun on pins or bushings.
- Planet carrier (assembly): the structure holding the planet gears; usually bolts to the output shaft or interfaces with clutches.
- Pinion shafts / pins / rollers: the shafts or pins that the planet gears rotate on. Can be solid pins or needle-bushing journals.
- Planet bushings / needle bearings: allow smooth rotation; wear here causes play and noise.
- Thrust washers / thrust plates: flat hardened rings between gears/carrier and the case to control axial movement and wear.
- Ring gear (annulus): internal-toothed outer gear; often heavy and held or driven for different ratios.
- Snap rings / circlips / retaining rings: lock components in place axially.
- Bearings (roller, needle, tapered): support the carrier, sun gear or shafts; preload and endplay must be correct.
- Input shaft / output shaft interface: where the planetary assembly connects to the rest of the transmission (splines, clutch hub).
- Seals & O-rings: keep ATF inside and contaminants out.
- Bolts & dowels: align and secure parts; often single-use torque-to-yield bolts may be present.
- Related hydraulic components you’ll affect: clutch packs, separators, valve body, servos, band assemblies. Often these are inspected/replaced during gearbox rebuild.

Tools, consumables and workshop setup
- Service manual for Toyota H41/H42/H50/H55F: absolutely required for specs (bolt torques, shim thicknesses, clearances, disassembly sequence).
- Transmission jack (or axle stands and good lifting equipment).
- Standard hand tools: sockets, wrenches, screwdrivers, pry bars.
- Snap ring pliers, circlip pliers.
- Bearing puller / slide hammer, press (hydraulic press) and arbor/press tools.
- Dial indicator with magnetic base (to measure endplay/backlash).
- Feeler gauges, calipers or micrometer for thickness checks.
- Torque wrench (proper ranges).
- Seal drivers, drift punches, pullers.
- Clean workspace, parts trays, labels and camera (to mark orientation).
- Clean solvent, lint-free rags, brake cleaner, lubricating oil (ATF), assembly lube.
- New gaskets, seals, OEM planetary set or remake kit, new bearings/seals/thrust washers/snap rings as required.
- Safety gear: gloves, goggles, jack stands, wheel chocks.

Preparation and safety
- Park on level ground, chock wheels, disconnect battery.
- Drain ATF; dispose properly.
- Use proper supports and transmission jack. Never rely on a hydraulic jack alone; use jack stands and an assistant.
- Work in clean, well-lit area. Keep parts organized and tagged in the order removed. Take photos at every stage.

High-level removal sequence (what you’ll do; follow factory manual for specifics)
1. Remove external attachments: driveshafts/CV axles, propeller shaft (if RWD/4WD), exhaust crosspipes if required, starter, electrical connectors, throttle linkages, shift linkage.
2. Support the engine: you will drop the trans; support the engine with a support bar or jack as required.
3. Unbolt torque converter (or flexplate) to transmission: remove torque converter bolts from flywheel by turning the crank slightly; mark alignment.
4. Remove crossmember/transmission mounts and any hydraulic lines (cap lines to avoid contamination).
5. Lower and remove the transmission from the vehicle onto a transmission jack.
6. Secure the gearbox on a workbench or stand with the case supported.

Bench disassembly to access planetary cluster
7. Remove transmission pan, filter, and valve body (note many valve bodies must be supported and bolt order followed to avoid damaging valves).
8. Remove clutch packs / drums and separator plates as required to get to the planetary assembly. Keep plates in order, mark orientation.
9. Remove snap rings, retaining bolts and cover plates that hold the planetary carrier or ring gear in place.
10. Carefully extract the planet carrier/planetary assembly. You may need to remove the shaft or carrier bearings first with a press/puller.

Inspect every part
- Clean each part in solvent; use lint-free rags.
- Inspect gears: check for chipped/broken teeth, pitting, scoring, abnormal wear patterns.
- Inspect pinion shafts and bushings: look for flattened rollers, discoloration (heat), loose bushings.
- Inspect bearings: roughness, play, metal flaking.
- Inspect thrust washers for wear or out-of-flat condition.
- Inspect ring gear and sun gear for pattern and pitch wear.
- Check splines for rounding. Check the case where bearings seat for damage.
- Magnet and pan: metal particles, color of fluid (burnt dark fluid indicates clutch overheating).

Replacing the planetary gearset (assembly steps)
- Buy a correct OEM or high-quality rebuild planetary set and all associated bearings, seals and thrusts. Replace bushings/needles, snap rings, and any other wear items rather than re-using.
- Press bearings onto shafts or into carriers as required using a press and appropriate sleeves—never press on a gear face or race that will damage a bearing.
- Install new bushings/needle bearings on planet pins. If the planetary uses pins, ensure correct positioning and lubrication.
- Assemble planet gears onto carrier with new thrust washers and snap rings; apply assembly lubricant/ATF to bearings and thrust surfaces.
- Install the sun gear onto the input spline (if required) ensuring proper orientation and fit.
- Place the ring gear over the assembly in the case; fit any dowels or alignment features.
- Fit new snap rings/circlips and ensure they are fully seated in grooves; verify axial play with dial indicator to match factory endplay spec.
- Measure ring/planet backlash and carrier endplay with dial indicator; adjust shims/thrusts per factory specs. This is critical — incorrect backlash or endplay will lead to noise, wear, or immediate failure.
- Replace any associated seals and bearings in the case and on shafts; press in new races if required.

Reassembly into the gearbox
- Reinstall clutch drums, pistons, separators in the correct order. Replace friction plates and steels if worn or if clutches show heat discoloration.
- Clean valve body bore surfaces and reinstall valve body and filter with new gaskets/paper filters.
- Replace front pump seals if disturbed.
- Reinstall torque converter (ensure it fully engages input pump shaft splines and at proper rotation marks). Torque converter bolts per manual.
- Reinstall transmission into vehicle, reconnect engine mounts, lines, linkages, and electrical connectors.
- Refill with correct ATF type and volume specified for Toyota H-series (factory manual). Do not overfill.

Setting endplay, preload and final checks
- With engine off and the transmission installed but not fully torqued, verify converter-to-pump engagement and free rotation where specified.
- After installing and tightening to spec, measure any specified endplay/backlash again per manual.
- Check for leaks with the transmission still accessible.

Start-up, bleed and road test
- Start engine and check ATF level warm (follow vehicle manual procedure for level with engine idling, in park/neutral as specified).
- Cycle through gears on the selector while holding the vehicle secure (handbrake) to circulate ATF.
- Road test with light-to-moderate load, listening for noise and verifying shifts. Recheck fluid level after road test and top to specified level.
- Run-in: avoid hard launches for the first few hundred kms and monitor for leaks, noises, and shift quality.

What can go wrong — pitfalls to avoid (and how to avoid them)
- Wrong parts: using non-matching planetary set or wrong carrier bearings will cause misfit/backlash problems. Always verify part numbers.
- Poor cleanliness: even tiny contamination (dirt, metal shavings) will ruin clutches and valve metering. Keep everything clean and covered.
- Improper bearing install: pressing on wrong surfaces can destroy bearings. Use proper sleeves and press only on outer races when required.
- Incorrect snap-ring seating: a ring not fully seated allows axial movement and catastrophic failure.
- Bad endplay/backlash adjustment: too tight -> binding, overheating and seizure; too loose -> noise, impact loading, broken teeth. Use dial indicator and factory shim tables.
- Not replacing wear items: reusing old thrust washers, bearings, or seals that show wear invites repeat failure.
- Bolts and torque: under- or over-torquing critical fasteners (carrier bolts, pump bolts) can cause immediate failure or oil leaks. Use torque wrench and factory specs.
- Not replacing fluid/filter: contaminants and burnt fluid left in system will pollute the new gearset — always replace filter and fluid.
- Skipping valve body inspection: damaged valves/solenoids can cause incorrect pressures which stress gearing.
- Improper seating of torque converter: if the converter isn’t fully seated on the pump, the pump will starve or pump dry and ruin the unit.
- Reassembly order: dropping parts in out of order can trap springs or small components inside the case.

Inspection checklist before final assembly (quick)
- Every gear tooth — no chips, cracks, abnormal wear.
- Planet bushings/needles — full, smooth rotation, no metal flaking.
- Bearings — roll smoothly, no play.
- Thrust washers — within thickness tolerance, no scoring.
- Snap rings — new if increased wear, seat fully.
- Seals & gaskets — replaced, lips not nicked.
- Valve body clean, bolts torqued in correct sequence.
- Torque converter seated flush; bolts torqued to spec.
- Fluid and filter changed.

Final notes and realistic expectations
- This is an intermediate-to-advanced job. If you are a beginner, expect the job to take a long time, require specialty tools (press, dial indicator), and demand careful measurement. Replacing only the planetary set but ignoring other wear items (clutches, seals, bearings) is a common cause for a second visit to the bench.
- Always use the Toyota service manual for your specific H41/H42/H50/H55F for exact bolt torques, shim tables and clearances. Those specs are essential and vary by model/year.
- If you feel unsure about measuring backlash/endplay or pressing bearings, consider a transmission rebuilder or an experienced mechanic for the critical measurement and assembly steps.

If you follow the above methodically, keep everything impeccably clean, and use the correct parts and measurements, you can successfully replace the planetary gearset and restore the gearbox to reliable operation.
rteeqp73

Early H55F Transmission Rebuild: PT3- Install, Test drives in FJ60 & Performance Upgrade! Its been a hell of a journey and lots of learnings to get this 5 speed transmission built and now finally installed. The camera work in ...

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