1) Safety & prep
- Action: Park on level ground, set parking brake, chock wheels, switch engine off and keys removed, allow engine to cool. Disconnect negative battery terminal if you’ll be working near the starter, alternator or A/C electrical connectors.
- Theory: Prevents accidental engine start, fan/alternator clutch engagement and reduces risk of burns or short circuits.
- How this fixes the fault: Eliminates safety risks while you diagnose and replace the belt and related parts.

2) Gather tools & parts
- Action: Get new OEM-spec serpentine belt (correct part number), correct sockets/wrenches, breaker bar or tensioner tool, torque wrench, prybar, belt tension gauge (or service manual tension spec), flashlight, gloves, and inspection tools.
- Theory: Correct belt material and dimensions plus proper tools ensure correct fit and tension; a gauge gives repeatable tension.
- How this fixes the fault: Using the right belt and tools prevents premature failure and ensures proper transmission of accessory loads.

3) Document belt routing
- Action: Before removal, draw or photograph the belt routing and compare with the vehicle’s routing diagram (underhood sticker or workshop manual).
- Theory: Serpentine belts follow a specific path over multiple pulleys; misrouting causes wrong accessory rotation or interference.
- How this fixes the fault: Ensures the new belt drives all accessories correctly and prevents immediate damage or noise from incorrect routing.

4) Inspect accessories and pulleys before removal
- Action: Rotate pulleys by hand (engine cold). Check for rough bearings, play, glazing, oil contamination, missing fasteners, and misalignment. Inspect tensioner and idler pulleys for free rotation and no play.
- Theory: Bearings and alignment failures cause belt wear, noise, and loss of tension; oil/grease degrades belt compound.
- How this fixes the fault: Identifies root causes (worn idler/tensioner, seized bearing, oil leak) so you replace them along with the belt to prevent recurrence.

5) Release belt tension and remove belt
- Action: Use the correct wrench or tensioner tool to rotate the automatic tensioner and relieve tension, then slide the belt off the easiest pulley and remove.
- Theory: The spring-loaded tensioner keeps constant tension; rotating it compresses the spring so the belt can be freed safely.
- How this fixes the fault: Allows removal without damaging the tensioner spring; controlled release prevents sudden snap-back that could harm components.

6) Inspect belt and measure wear
- Action: Examine the old belt’s ribs for cracks, glazing, missing chunks, fibers, or oil absorption. Measure length if needed.
- Theory: Rib cracking, shiny glazing, and separation indicate age, heat damage or contamination; belt stretch and rib wear reduce grip and alignment.
- How this fixes the fault: Confirms whether the belt was the primary fault (slip, squeal) or secondary to other components; justifies replacement.

7) Replace faulty pulleys/tensioner/idlers if required
- Action: Replace any pulleys, idler(s), and the tensioner that show bearing play, roughness, or runout. Replace seals causing oil leakage.
- Theory: Even a new belt will fail fast if resting on a misaligned or rough pulley; a worn tensioner won’t hold correct tension.
- How this fixes the fault: Restores smooth bearing surfaces and correct tensioning so the belt maintains traction and alignment long-term.

8) Check pulley alignment
- Action: Use a straightedge across pulley flanges or use alignment tool to verify pulleys are co-planar and belt paths are straight. Correct misalignment (shim or replace bracket) per manual.
- Theory: Misaligned pulleys introduce lateral forces that wear ribs, cause squeal and belt tracking problems.
- How this fixes the fault: Realigns the drive so belt runs in its grooves without edge loading or rapid wear.

9) Fit the new belt following routing
- Action: Route the new belt per diagram, leave the belt off the tensioner/one pulley last, then apply tensioner to seat belt.
- Theory: Correct routing ensures each accessory gets torque in the intended direction and that the belt seats in ribs uniformly.
- How this fixes the fault: Restores full contact and correct load distribution so accessories receive drive without slip.

10) Set and verify tension
- Action: Allow automatic tensioner to apply tension; if an adjustable tensioner, set to OEM spec using a tension gauge or specified deflection. If using deflection as a rough check, confirm by service manual guideline (prefer using a gauge).
- Theory: Proper tension is critical: too loose = slip/noise/heat; too tight = excess bearing and seal loads, premature pulley/tensioner failure.
- How this fixes the fault: Correct tension eliminates slip and squeal while avoiding overloading bearings, so accessories operate reliably.

11) Spin test and final checks (engine off, then on)
- Action: With engine off, rotate accessories by hand to confirm smooth movement and belt seating. Reconnect battery if disconnected. Start engine, observe belt at idle and under some revs: listen for noise, watch for wobble, check charging voltage and coolant circulation, and re-check tensioner behavior.
- Theory: Running checks reveal dynamic issues (whine, chirp, flutter) not obvious static checks show, and confirm accessory operation.
- How this fixes the fault: Confirms the repair removed slip, noise and restored accessory function; identifies any remaining issues immediately.

12) Road test and re-inspect
- Action: Light road test with varied load (A/C on/off, electrical load), re-check everything after 10–30 minutes of operation. Re-torque any tensioner or pulley fasteners per manual.
- Theory: Thermal cycles and load can reveal settling or remaining issues; re-torquing prevents fastener loosening from initial run-in.
- How this fixes the fault: Ensures long-term durability and prevents recurrence from overlooked torque or settling problems.

13) Troubleshooting common symptoms and root-cause links
- Squeal at cold start: usually loose/tired belt, glazed ribs, or weak tensioner. Replacing belt and/or tensioner restores grip and damping.
- Squeal under load (A/C on): worn belt or contaminated belt, or accessory bearing dragging. Replacement and bearing replacement remove slip and reduce load.
- Rapid belt wear or shredding: misalignment or a damaged pulley edge. Correcting alignment or replacing pulley prevents continued damage.
- Battery not charging: slipping or broken belt or faulty alternator/tensioner. New belt/tensioner restores drive; if charging still bad, accessory fault remains.
- Oil contamination on belt: source leak (rear crank seal/valve cover). Fix seal and replace belt; cleaning alone won’t restore belt integrity.

14) Record and preventive advice
- Action: Note part numbers, mileage, and replaced items. Recommend inspecting belt/system at scheduled intervals and fixing fluid leaks immediately.
- Theory: Documentation aids future diagnostics; prevention extends service life.
- How this fixes the fault: Regular inspection catches early wear and prevents sudden failures.

End notes (brief)
- Use OEM parts and service manual torque/tension specs where available. Release tensioners slowly; never pry a spring tensioner beyond intended range. If uncertain about a pulley or accessory condition, replace the suspect part along with the belt — a new belt on worn components often fails quickly.

No further questions.
rteeqp73

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