Below is a beginner-friendly, shop‑style guide to the crankshaft position sensor (CKP) on a Hino Super F Series (GH1H). It covers what each component is and does, why a repair is needed, what can go wrong, how the system works, how to test and replace the sensor, and simple troubleshooting. Where exact vehicle-specific numbers (torque/values) vary, I note that you should verify with the factory workshop manual.

Quick summary (one line)
- The crankshaft position sensor tells the engine computer where the crankshaft is so fuel injection and ignition timing happen at the right moment. If it fails you’ll get no‑start, rough running, stalling or misfires. Diagnosis, careful removal and replacement are straightforward for a mechanic with basic tools.

1) Theory and simple analogy — why the CKP matters
- Think of the crankshaft as a bicycle wheel with a single reflective patch or several teeth on the rim (that patch/teeth is the tone or reluctor wheel). The CKP is like a stationary photocell or magnet that “sees” each patch or tooth pass by and sends a pulse to the engine computer (ECM). The ECM uses the timing of those pulses to know the crank position and speed so it can inject fuel and fire ignition at the correct time.
- If the sensor stops giving clean, consistent pulses (missing pulses, wrong timing, no signal), the ECM can’t control injection/ignition properly — result: no start, rough idle, stalling, poor fuel economy, CEL (Check Engine Light) or fault codes (e.g., P0335 or similar).

2) The components — what each part is and what it does
- Crankshaft position sensor (CKP)
- Body/housing: metal or plastic cylinder that mounts to engine block or bell housing.
- Sensing element:
- Passive (magnetic/inductive): produces an AC voltage as teeth pass (no internal power).
- Active (Hall-effect): uses supply voltage and produces a digital pulse (often 3‑wire: Vref, ground, signal).
- Connector: plugs into the engine wiring harness (usually sealed). Often 2‑wire for passive, 3‑wire for active.
- O‑ring/seal: seals sensor to prevent oil ingress and keeps sensor in correct position.
- Mounting bolt(s): secure the sensor; also set tiny air gap between sensor tip and tone wheel.
- Tone wheel / reluctor / flywheel ring
- A ring with teeth or notches mounted on the crankshaft or flywheel. Each tooth/notch passing the sensor creates the raw signal.
- Wiring harness and connector
- Multi‑core cable that carries the sensor signal and power (if active) to the ECM. Includes protective loom and sometimes clips/retainers.
- Engine Control Module (ECM)
- Interprets CKP pulses, derives crank angle and RPM, and coordinates injection/ignition timing.
- Mounting boss/bridge
- The portion of the block or bell housing that the sensor threads into or bolts to; must be clean and undamaged for correct alignment.
- Relays/fuses (supporting circuits)
- In some systems an ignition or ECU power fuse supplies the CKP; an open fuse can cause “no signal” even if the sensor is OK.

3) Symptoms that point to CKP problems
- Engine won’t crank/starts then stalls or won’t start at all.
- Intermittent starting or intermittent stalling while driving.
- Misfires, rough idle, erratic RPMs.
- No/erratic tachometer reading.
- Check Engine Light with codes related to crank sensor (P0335/0336 or manufacturer-specific).
- Poor fuel economy or loss of power.
- Engine cranks but no spark or injection pulses (ECM needs CKP to energize injectors/ignition).

4) Tools and supplies you’ll need
- Factory workshop manual or wiring diagram for GH1H (highly recommended).
- Safety gear: gloves, eye protection.
- Basic hand tools: ratchet, sockets (metric set), combination wrenches, extension bars.
- Torx/Allen if required by sensor mounting.
- Torque wrench (for correct bolt torque).
- Multimeter (DC/AC voltage, resistance) — essential.
- Oscilloscope or lab scope (very useful for seeing waveform; optional but recommended).
- OBD-II or manufacturer scan tool to read/clear codes and view live CKP data.
- Dielectric grease (for connectors), contact cleaner, brake cleaner or solvent.
- Replacement CKP sensor (OEM or equivalent), new sealing O‑ring if applicable.
- Small prybar or pick for clips, clamp pliers, penetrating oil (if stuck).
- Anti‑seize (small amount on threads if manual advises).
- Clean shop rags.

5) Safety and preparation
- Park on level ground, engine off and cool.
- Disconnect negative battery terminal when doing electrical work — many folks keep it connected for tests, but remove it when disconnecting harnesses or removing sensors to avoid shorts.
- Support vehicle if you need to get under it; use jack stands.
- Keep magnetic sensors away from magnetic-sensitive devices.
- Note exact orientation of sensor and wiring before removal; take photos.

6) Diagnosis — test in order (quick to detailed)
A. Read fault codes
- Use a scan tool to read DTCs. Codes referencing crank position or signal loss are primary clues.
B. Visual inspection
- Inspect connector for corrosion, bent pins, broken wires, oil or debris. Inspect harness for chafing or previous repairs.
- Check tone ring (if visible) for missing/damaged teeth, heavy scoring or debris.
- Check mounting area for oil leaks that may have soaked the sensor.
C. Wiggle test / live data
- With scanner showing RPM or crank signal, lightly wiggle the harness or connector while cranking. Intermittent changes suggest wiring/connector issues.
D. Electrical checks (multimeter)
- Identify type: 2‑wire (passive/inductive) or 3‑wire (active/Hall).
- Passive sensor: measure resistance across sensor pins (engine off). Typical ranges vary widely; many are ~200–1500 ohm — check manual. Short to ground or open (OL) indicates failure.
- Active (3‑wire): check for reference voltage (often +5V or +12V) from ECM to the sensor while ignition ON, and check ground continuity. Back‑probe the connector.
- While cranking:
- Passive: measure AC voltage across sensor — you should see a small AC voltage that rises with cranking speed (0.2–2 VAC or more depending on design).
- Active: measure output pulse voltage — you should see switching pulses from ~0V to supply voltage.
E. Oscilloscope (best)
- Waveform should be clean, consistent, and evenly spaced pulses at cranking and idle. Missing pulses or noisy/wavy signals indicate sensor or tone wheel damage.
F. Confirm ECM power/ground
- If sensor checks OK, verify ECM grounds and power. Some “no crank signal” issues are caused by ECM fuses, broken ground straps or faulty ECM.

7) Removal — step‑by‑step (general procedure; confirm location on GH1H)
Note: On many Hino GH1H engines the CKP is mounted at the bell housing near the flywheel/or on the front timing cover. Confirm location in your manual.

1. Safety: Park, apply parking brake, disconnect negative battery terminal if you are removing electrical components.
2. Access: Remove any covers, air ducts or hoses that block access to the sensor. Use vehicle manual for panels/steps specific to GH1H.
3. Unplug connector: Depress release tab and pull connector straight off. If stuck, use a small pick to lift the tab, do not pull on wires.
4. Mark wiring: Use tape/marker or take a photo for orientation. Secure harness away from heat sources.
5. Remove mounting bolt(s): Use correct socket and remove the bolt(s) holding sensor. Keep bolts and any shims or spacers.
6. Remove sensor: Pull sensor out straight. If it’s stuck from grime or gasket, spray penetrating oil around boss and work gently. Do not pry on the tip — pull straight to avoid damaging reluctor or sensor tip.
7. Inspect sensor tip and mounting bore for metal shavings, scoring, oil contamination, or broken magnet around tip.

8) Inspection on removal
- Sensor tip: look for cracks, heavy scoring, melted or burnt plastic (sign of overheating), or metal contamination.
- O‑ring/seal: often brittle or flattened — replace.
- Connector pins: look for corrosion, bent or pushed‑in pins. Replace connector or repair wiring if necessary.
- Tone wheel: inspect for missing teeth, cracks, heavy wear or metal flakes. Damage here requires flywheel/tone ring repair/replacement and possibly engine out work.

9) Installation — step‑by‑step
1. Clean mounting boss: remove old gasket/sealant and debris. Use solvent but keep bore dry. Ensure no loose metal particles.
2. Fit new O‑ring/seal if supplied. Lightly coat O‑ring with a little engine oil to ease installation (or a thin smear of dielectric grease) unless manual specifies otherwise.
3. Insert sensor straight into the bore until it seats. Ensure correct tip gap: for many sensors gap is small (0.5–2.0 mm) — the factory manual will specify exact clearance. Some sensors are indexed to a groove or dowel so they self‑align.
4. Fit mounting bolt(s): thread in by hand, then torque to spec. If you do not have the GH1H spec, typical small sensor bolts are in the range 8–20 Nm — check manual.
5. Reconnect the electrical connector and secure any wiring clamps or routing ties so wires can’t rub or contact hot/exhaust components.
6. Reinstall any covers, panels or ducts removed earlier.
7. Reconnect negative battery terminal if removed.

10) Testing after installation
- Clear codes with scan tool.
- Crank engine and observe scanner: RPM reading should be present and steady; no crank signal codes.
- Use oscilloscope or live data: confirm a clean waveform at cranking and idle. Check that pulses are of correct amplitude and frequency.
- Test drive to ensure symptoms are gone (no stalling/misfire).
- Re‑scan for pending codes after test drive.

11) What can go wrong — diagnosis of common failures
- Sensor failure (internal short/open, thermal damage).
- Contaminated/dirty sensor tip (oil, metal dust) causing weak signal.
- Connector corrosion or bent pins causing intermittent signal.
- Broken or chafed wiring harness causing intermittent or no signal.
- Loose mounting bolt or wrong gap causing weak/no signal.
- Damaged tone wheel: missing teeth, magnetized debris, cracks — will produce incorrect pulses.
- ECM faults: unlikely but possible; if wiring and sensor test good but ECM receives no valid signal, ECM may be faulty.
- Mechanical timing issue: if crank or cam gears have slipped, pulses might be present but engine timing will be wrong — still investigate mechanical timing if timing codes or misalignment present.

12) Troubleshooting quick tips
- If code returns immediately after replacement: re‑check connector pins, harness continuity, and verify sensor supply voltage/ground.
- Intermittent fault only when hot: sensor/connector may be heat‑affected — inspect for heat damage and repair harness routing.
- No waveform but sensor measures good resistance: check wiring back to ECM; connector continuity; possible ECM input fault.
- If waveform missing specific teeth: inspect reluctor for broken/missing teeth.

13) Electrical test cheat sheet
- Identify sensor type (2‑wire = passive; 3‑wire = active).
- Passive sensor:
- Resistance across two pins (engine off): finite reading (check manual).
- AC voltage while cranking: small AC signal proportional to speed.
- Active/Hall sensor:
- With ignition ON: Vref present (often 5V but could be 12V) between Vref pin and ground.
- Signal pin should switch between near 0V and ~Vref when cranking.
- Check ground continuity to chassis or engine ground.
- Always back‑probe connectors rather than disconnecting while testing under cranking if you want live data.

14) Final notes and best practices
- Always verify vehicle‑specific procedures and torque values in the Hino GH1H workshop manual. CKP gap and bolt torque are important.
- Replace the O‑ring every time to avoid oil leaks and ensure proper sensor seating.
- If wiring is damaged, replace or splice with proper solder and heat‑shrink, and use protective loom.
- Use an oscilloscope for best diagnosis; multimeter only goes so far.
- Keep the new sensor and connector dry and clean during installation; dielectric grease in the connector helps prevent corrosion but don’t pack grease into the sensor tip.
- Dispose of old sensors and contaminated rags per local regulations.

Estimated time (typical)
- Diagnosis: 30–90 minutes depending on tests (scan, multimeter, possible scope).
- Sensor replacement (accessible): 20–60 minutes.
- If removal requires transmission separation or extensive access, labour increases significantly.

That covers the components, how the system works, why repairs are needed, what can go wrong, and step‑by‑step diagnosis and replacement guidance for a beginner mechanic. Follow the GH1H factory workshop manual for exact sensor location, pinouts, gap and torque specs.
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