Quick overview (why this repair matters)
- Function: Suspension dampers (shock absorbers) control the up-and-down motion of the axle relative to the chassis. They convert kinetic energy (wheel/axle movement) into heat by forcing hydraulic fluid (and/or gas) through valves. Without functioning dampers the vehicle will bounce, bottom out, have poor steering stability, longer stopping distances, uneven tyre wear and faster structural wear.
- Analogy: Dampers are like the “speed limiter” for the springs — springs store energy like a stretched rubber band; the damper is the finger that slows the band down so it doesn’t oscillate.
- When to replace: visible oil leaks, a bent/shiny piston rod, a damaged dust boot/bump stop, excessive bounce after a bump, nose dive under braking, poor ride or handling, or after hitting hard impacts. Always inspect mounts and bushings when replacing dampers.

Major components you will deal with (what everything is and does)
- Damper body (cylinder): houses oil and internal valves.
- Piston rod: connects the piston to the vehicle mounting; slides into the body.
- Piston (internal): forces oil through valves — creates damping resistance.
- Valves (piston/base valve): control flow of oil during compression and rebound.
- Hydraulic oil (and sometimes gas chamber): transmits forces and dissipates heat.
- Dust boot / dust cover: keeps dirt off the piston rod.
- Bump stop (rubber/urethane): prevents metal-to-metal bottoming of the damper.
- Upper mount (eye/bolt or stud/mounting bracket): clamps the top end to chassis/frame.
- Lower mount (eye/bolt): connects to axle or spring hanger.
- Bushings / sleeves / washers / nuts: isolate vibration and provide correct preload and alignment.
- Mounting bracket (frame bracket or axle bracket): welded or bolted to the vehicle where the damper attaches.

Tools and materials (basic list for a beginner)
- Service/manual for Hino Super F Series GH1H (required for correct torque specs and part numbers)
- Heavy-duty vehicle lift or suitable jacks and axle stands rated for the truck weight
- Wheel chocks, parking brake applied
- Penetrating oil (e.g., PB Blaster)
- Sockets and spanners (metric), breaker bar
- Torque wrench (calibrated to required range)
- Hammer, drift/punch
- Pry bar
- Bench vice (helpful for bushings)
- New shock absorbers (correct part number), new mounting bolts/nuts/sleeves if specified
- Anti-seize or thread locker as per manual
- Shop rags, gloves, eye protection
- Grease if new bushings require it

Safety first (non-negotiable)
- Park on level ground, chock wheels front and rear, engage parking brake.
- Use a vehicle lift or heavy-duty jackstands — never rely solely on a jack.
- Support the axle/frame properly: never place your head or body under unsupported parts.
- If heat is used to free a bolt, be careful of flammable penetrating oil and nearby hoses/fuel lines.
- Follow manufacturer’s torque and tightening sequence; improper torque can cause failure or loss of control.

Theory in plain language (what the damper is doing)
- When the wheel moves up (compression) the damper piston forces oil through valves tuned to restrict flow — this resists motion.
- When the wheel moves down (rebound) the piston moves the other way and different valves/ports control flow so the vehicle returns to ride height in a controlled manner.
- The damping force depends on velocity: slow movements get less resistance, fast impacts get more. Gas-charged units prevent aeration/cavitation and keep response consistent.
- A worn damper leaks oil or its valves degrade, reducing resistance so springs make the vehicle oscillate.

Step-by-step replacement procedure (beginner-friendly, generalized for Hino leaf-spring truck dampers)
Note: follow the Hino GH1H workshop manual for the exact sequence, torque specs and any model-specific quirks. The procedure below is the standard safe method used on heavy trucks with eye-type shocks mounted between frame and axle/leaf spring.

1) Preparation
- Fit PPE, set chocks on wheels that will remain on the ground, and ensure transmission is in PARK (or in gear for a manual plus parking brake).
- Raise vehicle on lift or raise the axle enough with a heavy jack to relieve damper load. Support the frame and axle with rated stands. For passenger safety/accuracy, put the vehicle at “ride height” later when tightening bushings (see step 8).
- Remove wheel(s) if they obstruct access. On trucks a wheel isn’t always required; remove only if it gives better access.

2) Inspect and free the hardware
- Clean around upper and lower mount with wire brush and penetrating oil, let soak.
- Identify upper and lower mounting bolts/nuts. Many heavy truck shocks are attached with large shear bolts or hex bolts and a sleeve/bushing in the eye. Note orientation of any washers/sleepers for reassembly.
- Loosen but don’t remove the nuts fully while the axle is supported—sometimes the lower bolt is under tension, so support the axle so the shock is not loaded (jack the axle slightly if needed).

3) Remove the old shock
- Remove the lower bolt first (or the lower primary mounting), then the upper. Removing lower first allows the shock to swing and reduce binding. If the shock is in tension, support the axle so the shock is slack before removing bolts.
- If bolts are seized: apply penetrating oil, tap with hammer to break rust, use heat only if safe and directed by manual. Punch or drift out bolts to avoid damaging threads.
- Remove old shock, bushes and sleeves. Keep a note/picture of the orientation and order of washers, sleeves and mounting parts.

4) Inspect mounting points and components
- Check frame bracket, axle/leaf spring hanger for cracks, loose welds, corrosion, or ovalised holes. Check bushings: if rubber is cracked or the sleeves are rusted, replace them.
- Check nearby brake lines, wiring harnesses, ABS sensors to ensure there’s no chafing or damage.

5) Prepare new shock and hardware
- Compare old shock to new for length, mounting type and orientation.
- If the new shock came with new bushings/sleeves/bolts, use them. Replace hardware — do not reuse severely corroded bolts or nuts.
- Lightly coat sleeves and metal bushings with grease if the bushing instructions require it (do not grease rubber unless specified). Use anti-seize on bolt threads if manual allows, or thread locker if recommended.

6) Fit the new shock
- Fit the shock into place: begin with the upper mount (or as per manufacturer). Insert the bolt/sleeve so the bushing is not crushed; hand-start nuts.
- Fit the lower mount and hand-tighten nuts. Ensure the shock is oriented correctly (some shocks are directional; arrow or “top” label).
- Make sure the dust boot and bump stop are in correct position, not pinched.

7) Pre-torque and alignment notes
- Tighten bolts snugly by hand first to seat bushings. Do not final-torque with suspension hanging or completely unloaded unless manual allows.
- Many manufacturers require final torque to be applied with the vehicle at ride height (suspension loaded) to avoid pre-loading rubber bushings. This means: lower the vehicle to the ground or support the axle at ride height, then torque the bolt to specified value. If the manual states otherwise, follow the manual.

8) Final torque and checks
- Lower the truck to ride height (or follow manual procedure) and tighten upper and lower bolts to manufacturer torque values (use torque wrench).
- Confirm bushings are seated correctly, dust boots not pinched, bump stops in place.
- If replacing more than one damper, do them one side at a time to keep vehicle stable.

9) Post-install checks
- Start vehicle, do a slow test of suspension travel (jack and let down slowly if lift used). Check for clunks or binding.
- Road test at low speed, checking for normal damping, no rattles, no axle contact with frame, and no fluid leaks.
- After 100–500 km (or per workshop manual), re-check bolt torques because bushings can settle.

Common things that go wrong (and how to avoid/fix)
- Wrong part: shock too long/short or wrong mount type. Remedy: verify OEM part number and physically compare before fitment.
- Seized bolts/stud failure: shear bolts/old rust can break. Avoid by using penetrating oil and heat; always have replacement bolts and correct repair parts ready.
- Forgetting to torque at ride height: leads to preloaded bushings and premature bushing failure. Always follow torque/load method from manual.
- Damaging dust boot or bump stop on installation: will allow contaminants to enter and cause rapid wear.
- Re-using excessively corroded sleeves or hardware: leads to poor seating and potential failure.
- Over-torquing and crushing bushings or stripping threads: use a calibrated torque wrench and the specified torque.
- Clearance issues: incorrect routing of brake lines or wires can cause wear or failure. Secure all lines away from moving parts.

Quick troubleshooting symptoms and causes
- Vehicle bounces more than 2–3 times over a bump: weak/failed damper.
- Oil on damper body or rod: internal seal failure → replace damper.
- Knock/clunk over bumps: worn bushings or loose mount hardware.
- Uneven tyre wear, nose dive on braking: under-damped or mismatched dampers (front vs rear or left vs right mismatch).
- Bent rod or body: damaged beyond repair — replace.

Maintenance tips and final notes
- Replace shocks in axle pairs (both left and right) to maintain balanced handling.
- Replace old rusty hardware during shock replacement.
- Always follow Hino Super F/GH1H workshop manual for torque specs and any special instructions (e.g., special washers, torque sequence, or orientation).
- After replacement, re-check fasteners after a short mileage (100–500 km) and inspect for leaks.

Example checklist for a single damper job (tick off)
- [ ] Correct parts and hardware on bench
- [ ] Vehicle secured, chocks and stands in place
- [ ] Penetrating oil applied to mounts
- [ ] Old shock removed safely
- [ ] Mounting hardware/bushings inspected/replaced
- [ ] New shock fitted, oriented correctly
- [ ] Final torque applied at ride height per manual
- [ ] Road test done and bolts rechecked after initial km

Closing safety reminder
This guide explains the full replacement flow and components for a Hino-heavy truck style shock (GH1H). Exact bolt sizes, thread pitches and torque values vary by model/year — use the Hino workshop/manual for those numbers. If any suspension bracket or weld is cracked or you’re unsure about handling the vehicle’s weight or seized hardware, get assistance from a qualified heavy-vehicle technician.

No yapping — that’s the full procedure and theory.
rteeqp73

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Tools & consumables (minimum)
- Heavy-duty floor jack + rated jackstands (truck-rated).
- Wheel chocks.
- Impact wrench + breaker bar.
- Axle nut socket (correct size), 6‑point deep socket set.
- Torque wrench (sufficient range for wheel/axle/hub nuts).
- Ball joint/tie-rod separator (pickle fork or puller).
- Hub puller / slide hammer (for stubborn hubs).
- Pry bar and large flat screwdriver.
- Snap‑ring / circlip pliers.
- Hammer, punch, drift.
- Bench vise or press (for rebuilding joints).
- Pliers, wire cutters.
- CV boot clamp crimper or banding tool, replacement clamps.
- Cleaning rags, brake cleaner, degreaser.
- CV grease (manufacturer spec / high temp moly grease).
- New CV boot(s) or complete CV axle / joint assembly.
- New axle nut (use new single‑use nut if specified), replacement cotter pins if applicable.
- Transmission/differential fluid (for top-up if inner joint removed and seals leak).
- Personal protective equipment (safety glasses, gloves).

Safety precautions (non-negotiable)
- Park on level surface, chock rear wheels, block well.
- Engage parking brake and put transmission in gear/park.
- Disconnect battery negative when working near electrical/sensors.
- Do not rely on the hydraulic jack alone — always use rated jackstands under frame or axle.
- Support control arm/knuckle properly when separating ball joints — prevent sudden collapse.
- Protect ABS ring and sensor wiring when prying/pulling hub or knuckle.
- Wear eye protection; CV grease and metal debris can injure.
- Have a drip tray for leaking gear oil if the inner joint is pulled from the transmission/differential.

Overview of the job
- You will either replace the complete CV axle assembly (recommended for trucks) or replace/rebuild the CV joint and boot. Inner joints often have a circlip and may leak transmission/differential fluid when removed — be prepared to top up/replace seals if needed. Obtain Hino GH1H factory workshop manual for torque specs and service limits.

Step‑by‑step procedure — removal
1. Preparation
- Chock rear wheels. Park on level ground.
- Disconnect battery negative.
- Loosen wheel nuts slightly with vehicle on ground before lifting.

2. Lift & secure
- Jack the truck at manufacturer jacking points and support with rated jackstands under axle or frame. Ensure stable support.

3. Remove wheel
- Remove wheel and set aside.

4. Remove hub/axle nut
- Remove cotter pin and any retaining cap.
- Use impact or breaker bar to remove axle/hub nut. If hub rotates, have an assistant apply service brake or use pry tool to hold rotor/hub.
- Note: axle nut is often a single‑use torque‑to‑yield style — plan to replace.

5. Disconnect steering and suspension links as required
- Remove tie‑rod end, sway bar link, or lower ball joint as necessary to allow steering knuckle to swing outward.
- Use ball‑joint separator or tie‑rod puller, do not hit on boots/threads unnecessarily.

6. Detach brake components if necessary
- Remove caliper (support it out of the way with wire — don’t hang on brake hose). Remove rotor if it obstructs access.

7. Separate hub from CV shaft
- Push axle shaft inward while pulling hub/knuckle out. If the shaft is stuck in the hub splines, use a hub puller or slide hammer on the shaft flange. Protect ABS tone ring.
- Be careful not to damage wheel bearing or CV splines.

8. Remove inner end from transmission/differential
- Pry the inner CV joint out of the trans/diff flange using a pry bar positioned on the transmission case lip. There’s usually a circlip that locks it in — withdraw until the circlip clears, then pull free.
- Expect a small fluid drip; have a pan ready and plan to check/replace fluid/seals later.

9. Remove axle assembly from vehicle
- Extract the CV axle assembly completely.

If replacing whole axle, skip to installation. If rebuilding joint/boot continue below.

Disassembly & rebuild (outer joint) — if you choose to rebuild
10. Secure axle in vise (soft jaw)
- Clamp on shaft, not on joint housing if possible.

11. Remove boot clamps & boot
- Cut or pry off ear clamps; slide boot off exposing joint.

12. Remove circlip and disassemble joint
- On many truck CVs a snap ring on the shaft retains the joint. Use snap‑ring pliers/punch and hammer to remove circlip and slide joint off splines.
- Note orientation and washer/ball positions. Keep order of parts.

13. Clean & inspect
- Clean all components with solvent/degreaser and inspect cage, balls, race, splines for pitting/wear. Replace joint if any scoring or excessive play exists.

14. Pack grease and assemble
- Load specified CV grease into joint liberally until full. Reassemble joint in original orientation, install new circlip.
- Fit new boot and secure with new clamps crimped properly with a boot clamp tool. Trim excess boot if necessary.

Installation
15. Prepare splines and seals
- Clean splines on transmission/hub. Lightly coat splines with grease for assembly (do not contaminate ABS or brake surfaces).
- Inspect inner seal at trans/diff; replace if leaking or damaged.

16. Insert inner end into transmission/differential
- Align and push inner CV into trans/diff until the circlip engages with a noticeable click. Do not hammer on shaft; press by hand or use a dead blow hammer with soft block if necessary.
- Check for fluid leak; replace seal before completing job if needed.

17. Position hub & engage outer splines
- Guide outer CV into hub splines while aligning knuckle and hub assembly. Insert fully until shaft seats.

18. Reassemble suspension & brakes
- Reattach ball joints, tie rods, sway links and torque to factory specs.
- Refit rotor, caliper.

19. Torque axle/hub nut
- Tighten axle nut to factory torque spec while rotating hub to seat bearings. If a torque‑to‑yield/one‑time nut was removed, install new one and torque to spec. Install cotter pin if required.

20. Reinstall wheel, lower vehicle
- Refit wheel, run down lug nuts in star pattern.
- Lower vehicle to ground, torque wheel nuts to spec.

21. Final checks
- Top up trans/diff fluid if any was lost; bleed if necessary.
- Check for leaks.
- Road test at low speed and re‑check nut torques and clamps after short drive.

How to use the key tools (practical notes)
- Impact wrench/breaker bar: use to remove stuck axle nut. Use correct size 6‑point socket to avoid rounding.
- Ball‑joint separator: seat properly between taper and press out; avoid striking knuckle edges or tearing dust boots.
- Hub puller/slide hammer: attach to hub or shaft flange evenly; pull straight to avoid damaging bearing or ABS ring.
- Pry bar: use at the trans case lip to pop inner CV out — place protected pad under pry to avoid gouging case.
- Snap‑ring pliers: compress or expand the circlip smoothly; a dropped snap ring can be lost inside axle housing.
- Clamp crimper: use specific CV boot crimper or banding tool for ear clamps. Improper clamping leads to leaks and boot failure.

Replacement parts commonly required
- New outer/inner CV joint or complete CV axle assembly (recommended if any wear).
- New CV boot kit (boot, clamps, grease).
- New axle/hub nut (if single‑use or damaged).
- New cotter pins, ABS sensor hardware if damaged.
- Transmission/differential seal (if inner joint removal disturbed the seal or leaks).
- Possibly new wheel studs or hub bolts if damaged during removal.

Common pitfalls & how to avoid them
- Reusing damaged boots/clamps: Replace boots and clamps every time joint is opened.
- Not packing enough grease: Under‑greased CVs fail quickly; pack joint thoroughly.
- Damaging the ABS tone ring: Avoid hitting or prying on the ring; support hub and use puller correctly.
- Improper torque on axle nut: Over‑torque can ruin bearings; under‑torque can cause loosening. Always use factory torque spec.
- Not supporting the knuckle: Letting knuckle hang on brake hose can strain and tear lines.
- Losing or misplacing snap rings/washers: Keep parts organized and note orientation.
- Allowing contamination: Keep grease and internal surfaces clean from dirt/water.
- Ignoring related wear: Worn bearings, tie‑rod ends, or seals should be replaced while suspension is apart.

Notes specific to Hino Super F Series GH1H
- Use Hino workshop manual for exact removal sequence, torque specs, and any special Hino tools (factory may require specific pullers or retaining tool).
- Medium truck CV/axle components on Hino are heavy and often require two‑person handling or a hoist. Plan accordingly.
- Hino may specify replacement of certain fasteners as single‑use — follow manual.

End checklist before road test
- All fasteners torqued to factory specs.
- New clamps installed and boots sealed.
- No fluid leaks at transmission/diff seal.
- ABS sensor connectors reconnected.
- Brake system reassembled correctly and no interference with CV/boot.
- Wheel nut torque correct.

That’s the full procedure. Follow the Hino GH1H workshop manual for model‑specific details and torque values.
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