- Safety first
- Wear safety glasses, gloves, and closed-toe shoes.
- Disconnect the negative battery terminal to prevent accidental cranking.
- Catch coolant/sea water in an appropriate container; prevent spills to the environment.
- Work with the engine cool and ventilated; wait until hot metal has cooled.

- Tools you need (detailed descriptions and how to use them)
- Socket set with ratchet (metric): contains various sockets and a ratchet handle. Use the correct socket to break and remove pulley/cover bolts. Use the ratchet to spin bolts quickly; use a breaker bar for stubborn bolts.
- Breaker bar (long non-ratcheting bar): gives extra leverage to loosen tight bolts without damaging the ratchet. Place the correct socket on the bolt, then apply slow steady pressure.
- Torque wrench (adjustable, metric): set to the specified torque and tighten bolts to the exact factory values to avoid over- or under-tightening. Use it only for final torque; don’t use for initial heavy loosening.
- Pulley puller (universal 3-arm or 2-arm puller sized for small engine pulleys): clamps to the pulley and pulls it off the shaft evenly. Choose a puller whose jaws fit behind the pulley lip. Thread the center forcing screw against the pump shaft and turn slowly with a wrench to pull the pulley off. Do not pry the pulley off—use the puller to avoid damaging the shaft or pulley.
- Impact or air gun (optional): speeds bolt removal but is not required; if used, be careful—impact guns can over-loosen or damage bolts. Use only if you know how.
- Penetrating oil (e.g., PB Blaster): sprays on corroded bolts to help loosen; let soak 10–20 minutes.
- Screwdrivers (flat and Phillips): for hose clamps, small fasteners, and prying plastic clips.
- Pliers and locking pliers (vice grips): for hose clamps or to hold small components. Use locking pliers to hold a nut steady if needed.
- Strap wrench or large adjustable wrench: to hold odd shaped parts or turn pulleys without marring surfaces.
- Soft-faced hammer or rubber mallet: to tap components gently if they’re stuck after the puller; do not hammer the shaft directly.
- Hex/Allen keys and Torx set (metric): some pumps use these fasteners; carry a set to match.
- Gasket scraper or plastic scraper: to clean old gasket material from mounting faces without gouging surfaces.
- Clean rags, shop towels, and parts cleaner (brake cleaner): to clean parts and mating surfaces.
- New gasket or O-ring, and threadlocker or anti-seize (as specified): to ensure proper sealing and to protect fasteners.
- Coolant collection container and funnel: to drain and refill coolant/sea water system safely.
- Service manual or printed torque chart for Hino W04 series (strongly recommended): contains bolt torques, belt routing and tension specs, and exploded diagrams. Use it for exact specs.

- Extra or specialty tools that may be required and why
- Specific Hino fan/pulley holding tool or crankshaft locking tool: some setups require holding the shaft or flywheel while removing the central bolt. Required if the central bolt cannot be loosened by hand because the shaft turns.
- Seal puller (if replacing the pump seal): used to remove the old mechanical seal without damaging the pump housing.
- Bearing puller (if the pulley houses a bearing and it’s pressed in): required to remove pressed-in bearings; otherwise risk damaging the pump.
- Replacement water pump and gasket kit: if the pump is leaking, noisy, or bearings/play are present. A kit often contains pump, gasket, impeller, seal and sometimes bolts—using the kit avoids later failures.

- Preparation steps before removing the pulley
- Obtain the Hino W04D/W04C-T/W04C-TI marine workshop manual pages for the pump and pulley: check belt routing, bolt sizes, torque specs, and any special holding tools recommended.
- Drain the coolant or sea water from the pump or raw water circuit into a container; close seacocks if marine raw-water is present.
- Loosen and remove the drive belt(s): mark belt direction and routing with a marker or a photo so you can reinstall correctly.
- Spray penetrating oil on pulley and fasteners; allow time to soak if corroded.
- Remove any obstructions (fan shroud, fan hub, or covers) that block access to the pulley bolts.

- Removing the pulley (step sequence)
- Expose and remove the pulley retaining fastener(s): typically a central bolt and sometimes small retaining bolts. Use the correct socket. If the bolt spins the shaft, use a holding tool or have an assistant hold the crank/flywheel or hold the shaft per manual instructions.
- If bolt is stubborn, use a breaker bar, applying steady pressure; a few sharp impacts with an impact gun can help but be cautious.
- Once retaining bolts are removed, attach the pulley puller to the pulley with properly seated jaws behind the pulley lip. Thread the puller center screw onto the pump shaft end or forcing point and turn slowly with a wrench.
- Pull the pulley straight off. If the pulley is stuck, do not pry on the shaft—use the puller and gentle taps with a rubber mallet on the puller forcing screw if needed.
- Inspect the pulley for damaged grooves, corrosion, or wobble on the hub.

- Inspecting the pump and pulley — when replacement is required
- Replace the pulley if
- Grooves for the belt are severely worn, uneven, or the belt tracks poorly.
- The hub is cracked, deeply corroded, or deformed.
- Replace the water pump if
- Shaft play (wobble) is felt when rocking the shaft side-to-side—bearing failure.
- The pump leaks coolant or raw water from the weep hole or around seals.
- The impeller is damaged (for raw-water pumps), cracked, missing vanes, or hardened—causes poor circulation.
- Unusual noise from the pump bearing while running.
- Typical replacement parts
- Complete water pump assembly (recommended if bearings or seals show wear).
- Impeller (raw-water pump) and impeller kit if only the elastomer vanes are worn.
- Pump gasket or O-ring seal kit.
- Replacement pulley (match OEM part number or measure bolt pattern, hub diameter).
- New fasteners if original bolts are corroded or stretch-type (replace torque-to-yield bolts).
- New drive belt(s) if the old belt shows glazing, cracked ribs, or incorrect size.

- Reinstalling pulley and pump (general guidance)
- Clean mating surfaces with scraper and solvent; ensure no old gasket remains.
- If replacing pump, install new gasket/seal per kit instructions; use proper seal orientation and light sealant only if manual calls for it.
- Position the pump and hand-start mounting bolts. Torque the pump bolts to the factory specification from the workshop manual using the torque wrench.
- Fit the pulley onto the pump shaft carefully; if press-fit, use the puller in reverse (press the pulley on evenly) or press in a vice with soft jaws. Do not hammer on the pulley hub directly.
- Install and torque the pulley retaining bolt to factory spec. If a threadlocker is specified in the manual, use the recommended strength.
- Reinstall belt(s) and set belt tension per manual specification (use a belt tension gauge if available, or follow manual deflection method). Correct tension is critical—too loose causes slipping, too tight kills bearings.
- Refill coolant or prime the raw-water circuit and bleed air per the manual procedures.
- Reconnect battery negative terminal.

- Testing and verification after installation
- Run the engine at idle and visually check for leaks around the pump and pulley.
- Observe belt tracking and look for vibration or wobble at the pulley.
- Listen for unusual noises from the pump as RPM increases.
- Re-check torque on accessible bolts after a short run (per manual service intervals).

- Practical tips for a beginner
- Always have the service manual or the OEM part diagrams in front of you—bolt sizes, sequences and torques vary by model.
- If the pulley bolt won’t budge and you don’t have a shaft-holding tool, stop and procure the correct holding tool rather than improvising; preventing shaft damage is important.
- Use the pulley puller instead of prying to avoid shaft or seal damage.
- If pump bearings or impeller look suspect, replace the whole pump assembly—cheaper and more reliable than partial work later.
- Keep parts organized and take photos during disassembly to ensure correct reassembly.

- Final note on torques and specifications
- Exact bolt sizes, torque values, belt routing and tension for Hino W04D / W04C-T / W04C-TI marine installations are in the Hino marine workshop manual. Obtain those specs and follow them exactly. If you cannot get the manual, have a professional supplier/dealer confirm torque values before final assembly.

- If you need the specific OEM part numbers (water pump, pulley, gasket, impeller) obtain them from the Hino parts catalog or a dealer for your exact engine serial number and marine configuration.

No extra commentary.
rteeqp73

Hino oil change How i do my oil change on my 150 hp WO4CT Hino engins in my bayliner 3288.

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