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HYUNDAI GETZ 2006 to 2011 Workshop Service Repair Manual Digital Download

Tools & consumables
- Jack (2) and heavy-duty axle stands, wheel chocks
- Hydraulic trolley jack (for hub/arm support)
- Socket set (10–32 mm), deep sockets, extension bars
- Breaker bar, 1/2" drive ratchet, 3/8" drive ratchet
- Torque wrench (range to 250 Nm)
- Impact wrench (optional)
- Ball‑joint separator / tie‑rod puller (pickle fork or puller tool)
- Ball‑joint press or hydraulic press (for press‑out/press‑in bearings/ball joints)
- Hub puller or 3‑arm puller
- Pry bars, flat screwdrivers, rubber mallet
- Spring compressor (if disassembling strut)
- Punch & drift, hammer
- Penetrating oil (e.g., PB Blaster), wire brush, rags
- Anti‑seize, threadlocker (blue)
- New cotter pins, copper washer or crush washer (as required)
- Replacement parts (see list below)
- Safety gear: gloves, eye protection, steel‑toe boots

Replacement parts commonly required
- Steering knuckle (if cracked/bent) or knuckle repair kit
- Wheel hub / bearing assembly (sealed unit preferred)
- Lower ball joint (if integrated replacement)
- Tie‑rod end (if worn)
- Hub nut (axle nut) and any worn fasteners
- Strut mounting nuts/bolts (if corroded)
- ABS sensor or tone ring (if damaged)
- New cotter pins, washers, grease where required

Safety & workshop precautions
- Work on flat level concrete. Chock rear wheels and use rated axle stands — never rely on the jack alone.
- If removing the strut spring, use a proper spring compressor and follow tool instructions to avoid violent spring release.
- Support the control arm/hub with a jack when separating suspension components to avoid sudden drop and CV joint damage.
- Disconnect battery if you will be unplugging ABS sensor connectors near electrical harness.
- Wear eye/hand protection. Keep bystanders clear.

Overview of procedure (front knuckle MacPherson, front‑wheel Getz)
1) Preparation
- Loosen the front axle nut (axle/hub nut) with the wheel on the ground while the car is stable. Use penetrating oil on the nut if necessary.
- Raise the car; support on stands under subframe or designated jacking points. Remove the wheel.

2) Remove brake components and access hub
- Remove caliper bolts, hang caliper out of the way using wire (don’t let it hang on the brake hose). Do not disconnect brake line unless required.
- Remove caliper carrier bracket if it blocks rotor removal.
- Remove the brake rotor (may require tapping with a rubber mallet if rusted).
- Unplug/disconnect ABS sensor and retainers from knuckle.

3) Separate drive axle & steering/suspension links
- Remove the axle nut completely. Back it off but keep nut threaded a few turns until hub is free if necessary.
- Disconnect outer tie rod end from the knuckle using a tie‑rod puller. Remove cotter pin and nut, then use puller to separate — avoid hammer‑striking the stud.
- Remove the lower ball joint nut. Use ball‑joint separator or press to release the ball joint from knuckle. Support control arm with jack to control spring/arm movement.
- If there is an upper ball joint (on some designs) or strut bolts, remove the strut-to-knuckle fasteners (usually 2 large bolts through the strut/bracket). If removing the strut assembly, compress the spring first with a proper compressor before disassembly.

4) Remove hub/bearing from knuckle
- With the knuckle free from steering and suspension links, remove the hub assembly from the knuckle. If the CV axle is splined into the hub, pry the half‑shaft out of the hub while supporting the hub; use a slide hammer or push the axle from the hub once nut removed. Put a rag over CV to protect boot.
- If the wheel bearing is a pressed-in unit: use a hydraulic press or specialized bearing press to press the bearing out of the knuckle. Use a hub puller if the hub flange is stuck.
- If the wheel hub is a bolt‑in sealed assembly on your Getz variant, remove retaining bolts and separate hub.

5) Inspect knuckle & decide repair vs replacement
- Clean knuckle thoroughly, inspect for cracks, severe corrosion, distorted mounting faces, or damaged ABS tone ring.
- If bent/cracked or bore is damaged beyond machining, replace knuckle.
- If only the bearing bore needs rework, you can have a machine shop ream & sleeve, but in most workshop practice replace knuckle or fit a new hub assembly.

6) Install new bearing/hub
- Clean knuckle bore and lubricate lightly. Use press to install new bearing or hub assembly squarely into bore — use correct adapter so force is applied to the outer race only (to avoid damaging bearings).
- If using a sealed hub assembly, press or bolt it in per supplier instructions. Install new bolts and apply threadlocker/anti‑seize as specified.
- Check ABS tone ring position and sensor gap; reinstall sensor.

7) Reassemble suspension & steering
- Refit knuckle onto strut; torque strut-to-knuckle bolts to factory spec. If strut-to-knuckle bolts are torque-to-yield or one‑time use, replace them.
- Reinstall lower ball joint into knuckle; torque nut to spec and fit new cotter pin where applicable.
- Reconnect tie rod end; torque nut to spec and fit cotter pin if required.
- Reinsert drive axle into new hub splines, ensure fully seated. Refit and torque axle nut — IMPORTANT: torque final axle nut to factory spec with the vehicle at curb height (weight on wheels) to properly set bearing preload unless workshop manual specifies otherwise. Some shops torque to spec with suspension drooped; follow manual.

8) Brakes & final assembly
- Reinstall rotor, caliper carrier, brake caliper. Torque all brake hardware to spec.
- Reconnect ABS sensor harness and clip all retainers.
- Refit wheel, lower vehicle to ground, torque wheel nuts to manufacturer spec in proper sequence.

9) Final checks & alignment
- Check for free rotation of hub; no binding or excessive play.
- Tighten any remaining fasteners to specified torque.
- Test drive carefully and listen for unusual noises.
- ALWAYS perform a front-end alignment after knuckle replacement (steering geometry will be altered). Do not deliver vehicle without alignment.

How the specialty tools are used (concise)
- Ball‑joint press: Position adapters so force presses against the ball joint housing/press‑in cup and pulls on the taper stud. Gradually tighten until joint is free or pressed in. Avoid forcing at angle.
- Hub/bearing press or hydraulic press: Use correct size driver that bears on the bearing outer race when pressing out, and on the inner race/appropriate sleeve when pressing in. Press slowly, keep parts aligned, and heat knuckle lightly if tight (engineered allowances).
- Hub puller / 3‑arm puller: Attach arms to flange and center the forcing screw against axle/hub pilot. Tighten evenly; if hub is seized, apply penetrating oil and heat to hub flange before pulling.
- Tie‑rod and pitman pullers: Place the fork behind the taper, tighten the extractor forcing screw to pop the stud out of the knuckle without damage.
- Spring compressor: Use matched pairs and compress springs evenly; never attempt to remove the strut without compressing the spring.

Common pitfalls & workshop tips
- Never hammer drive axle splines through hub — damage to CV joint/boot is common. Use proper puller or press.
- Pressing on the wrong race will destroy the new bearing — always press on outer race when removing and on appropriate race when installing per bearing manufacturer.
- Reuse of axle nut or corroded fasteners can cause failure — replace axle nut and any severely rusted bolts.
- Not supporting the control arm will cause sudden drop and damage CV boots or stress other joints.
- Forgetting to torque axle nut with vehicle weight on ground can lead to incorrect bearing preload; follow factory procedure.
- Reuse of cotter pins and safety locking devices is not acceptable—replace them.
- Skipping wheel alignment after knuckle/ball joint/tie rod work leads to uneven tyre wear and unstable handling.
- If replacing only the bearing, inspect knuckle bore runout — an out-of-spec bore will shorten bearing life.
- Corroded strut bolts can shear; have replacements ready.

Final checks
- No play in wheel (test vertical and lateral).
- ABS sensor reads correctly (no fault codes).
- No fluid leaks and brakes function properly.
- Road‑test and then re‑check torques after 100 km.

Reference
- Always use the Hyundai workshop manual or factory torque/sequence specs for the Getz model/year you’re working on. If you want, you can download the workshop manual for exact torque figures and detailed diagrams.

Done.
rteeqp73

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