Tools & consumables required
- Basic hand tools: metric socket set (8–24 mm), ratchet, extensions, universal joint, combination spanners.
- Long breaker bar, 1/2" drive.
- Torque wrench (0–200 Nm) — accurate for specified clutch/gearbox bolts.
- Transmission jack or floor jack with wooden blocks and a second jack/engine support.
- Clutch alignment tool (correct diameter for Getz input shaft; often supplied with new clutch).
- Pry bars, flat screwdriver.
- Impact gun (optional) for axle/large bolts.
- CV axle/axle nut socket (commonly 32–36 mm depending on model).
- Hammer, punch.
- Pilot bearing puller (if replacing pilot bearing).
- Threadlocker (medium strength, e.g., Loctite 243).
- Brake cleaner / parts cleaner; lint-free rags.
- New gearbox oil (if drained) and oil catch tray.
- Replacement parts: pressure plate, clutch disc (always replace disc with plate), release bearing (throw-out bearing), pilot bearing/bushing (if applicable), new pressure plate bolts (recommended), possibly flywheel resurfacing or replacement if worn.
- Personal protective equipment (gloves, eye protection), wheel chocks, jack stands.

Safety precautions
- Work on flat level ground. Chock rear wheels.
- Disconnect negative battery terminal before starting.
- Use quality jack stands and never rely on a jack alone. Support vehicle solidly.
- Support transmission with a transmission jack; support engine if removing engine mounts.
- Keep hands/cloths clear of rotating components. Avoid contaminating clutch friction surfaces with grease/oil.
- If using an impact gun, be careful when loosening tight fasteners to avoid damage.

Step-by-step procedure (Hyundai Getz FWD manual gearbox)
1. Preparation
- Park, chock wheels, disconnect negative battery.
- Raise vehicle safely on ramps or jack and place on stands. Remove the right or left front wheel (as needed to access axle nut) — both may be removed for space.
- Remove undertray/panels if fitted.

2. Remove driveshaft(s) / halfshaft(s)
- Remove wheel and loosen axle nut (while car on ground initially is easier — if not done, secure car).
- Remove lower ball joint/steering knuckle pinch bolt or hub bolts as required to free the CV shaft from hub. Pull CV shaft out of hub (use soft mallet to avoid damage) and secure it so it does not hang from the gearbox (ties or wire).
- On the trans side, unbolt CV shaft from transmission (remove circlip/bolts as applicable) and withdraw shafts from gearbox.

3. Disconnect ancillary components
- Drain gearbox oil if appropriate and located to avoid spills.
- Remove starter motor (unbolt and unplug) and position out of the way.
- Disconnect clutch slave cylinder or release mechanism (unbolt hydraulic line or pushrod) — do not spill brake fluid; plug lines.
- Remove speedometer cable / connectors, reverse light switch, wiring harnesses attached to bellhousing.
- Remove any engine/transmission mounts that prevent gearbox removal (support engine with jack/engine support if required).
- Disconnect gear linkage (unbolt selector rod) and any other brackets.

4. Support gearbox and remove bellhousing bolts
- Position transmission jack under gearbox and raise to support its weight.
- Remove bellhousing bolts in a sequence — remove ALL gearbox-to-engine bolts (note there are some hidden behind starter). Keep bolts organized by location.
- Carefully lower/tilt gearbox rearwards while pulling it clear from the engine. Wiggle slightly to clear input shaft splines—use pry bar gently if stuck (avoid levering on gearbox case).

5. Remove clutch assembly
- With gearbox removed and resting on trans jack, unbolt pressure plate bolts evenly in a star pattern, progressively releasing tension. Do not remove one bolt at a time fully — back off gradually to avoid warping.
- Remove pressure plate and clutch disc. Inspect clutch disc, pressure plate friction face, and flywheel.

6. Inspect flywheel & components
- Check flywheel for heat spots, scoring, cracking, or excessive wear. If glazed or scored, resurface (machine) or replace. If using resurfaced flywheel, ensure flatness within spec.
- Replace pilot bearing/bushing if worn or noisy.
- Inspect clutch fork, pivot, release bearing sleeve, slave cylinder for wear or damage — replace as needed.
- Clean bellhousing and mating surfaces with brake cleaner and lint-free rag.

7. Fit new parts
- Fit new pilot bearing if applicable (press in gently; use correct driver). Use a pilot bearing tool or carefully press with socket.
- Fit new release (throw-out) bearing onto clutch fork/shaft per manufacturer orientation and lubrication points (very sparingly: only where specified by maker, not on friction surfaces).
- Fit new clutch disc and pressure plate: use clutch alignment tool inserted through disc into pilot bearing to center the disc on the flywheel. Ensure the disc is fitted with the labelled "flywheel/engine" side facing the flywheel/engine (usually marked).
- Place pressure plate over the disc. Thread bolts finger-tight.

8. Torque pressure plate bolts
- Tighten pressure plate bolts gradually in a star/cross pattern in steps (e.g., finger-tight -> 1/3 spec -> 2/3 spec -> final). Use a torque wrench for final tightening.
- Hyundai Getz typical pressure plate bolt torque: consult factory manual for exact value. (Typical small FWD clutch bolt torque range ~20–35 Nm). Use factory spec if available. Apply medium threadlocker to bolts if recommended by parts supplier; do not overtighten.

9. Reinstall gearbox
- Ensure clutch alignment tool is still holding the disc centered. Use transmission jack to align gearbox input shaft with clutch disc splines and pilot bearing.
- Slide gearbox onto engine; do not force. Once splines engage and gearbox mates to bellhousing, install bellhousing bolts and tighten by hand.
- Torque bellhousing bolts to spec in appropriate sequence (factory manual values). Reinstall starter, linkage, mounts, wiring, and any brackets removed.
- Reconnect slave cylinder / hydraulic line. If hydraulic, bleed clutch per procedure.

10. Refit driveshafts and other components
- Refit CV shafts into gearbox and hub. Torque axle nut to spec (high torque; usually ~140–200 Nm depending on model — verify factory spec).
- Reinstall wheel(s), lower vehicle, torque wheel nuts to spec.
- Refill gearbox oil to correct level/type if drained.
- Reconnect negative battery.

11. Final checks and test
- Start engine, with handbrake on, test clutch engagement in neutral. Check for unusual noises.
- Test drive carefully: check for smooth engagement, no slipping, no chatter. Recheck gearbox oil level and torque of critical fasteners after first road test.

How tools are used (brief specifics)
- Transmission jack: support gearbox, raise/lower in small increments, and tilt to line up input shaft. Use wooden blocks to protect gearbox flange.
- Clutch alignment tool: inserted through clutch disc and into pilot bearing to center disc; remove only after gearbox is mounted to avoid misalignment.
- Torque wrench: use in calibrated incremental steps to avoid stress; tighten bolts in star pattern for even clamp.
- Impact gun: useful for axle nut removal but avoid using for final torque; always use torque wrench to final-tighten.
- Pilot bearing puller: used to extract damaged pilot bearing without damaging crankshaft bore.

Common pitfalls and how to avoid them
- Reusing clutch disc or release bearing — always replace both disc and pressure plate together, and replace throw-out bearing.
- Contaminating clutch surfaces — never use grease on disc; avoid touching friction material with oily hands; protect parts from brake cleaner residue.
- Misalignment of clutch disc — always use alignment tool to center disc; failure causes difficult transmission fit and clutch judder.
- Insufficient or excessive torque on pressure plate bolts — use torque wrench and factory specs; uneven torque causes distortion and chatter.
- Not inspecting/resurfacing flywheel — reusing a damaged flywheel causes rapid clutch wear and slipping.
- Not supporting engine when mounts removed — can lead to misalignment or damage.
- Forgetting to bleed hydraulic clutch — leads to poor pedal feel or inability to disengage clutch.
- Using wrong parts — ensure pressure plate and disc are matched kit for engine/gearbox model; use correct pilot bearing size.
- Reusing old bolts when torque-to-yield bolts were used — replace bolts if manufacturer specifies.

Recommended replacement parts checklist
- Pressure plate (matched kit)
- Clutch disc (matched kit)
- Release/throw-out bearing
- Pilot bearing/bushing (if applicable)
- New pressure-plate bolts (if specified)
- Gearbox oil (if drained)
- Any worn engine/transmission mount(s), pivot for clutch fork, slave/master cylinder if showing wear.

Time & skill
- Experienced technician with proper tools: 3–6 hours depending on workshop setup. Allow extra if flywheel machining or parts are ordered.

End.
rteeqp73

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