Goal: replace a leaking transaxle output (axle) shaft seal on a Hyundai Getz — full workshop-style procedure for a beginner mechanic, with system theory, parts descriptions, tools, step-by-step actions, what can go wrong and how to avoid it.

Short theory (why this is needed)
- The transaxle output (axle) seal sits where the gearbox’s rotating output shaft (the stub the driveshaft/half‑shaft connects to) leaves the transaxle housing. Its job is to keep gear oil inside the transaxle while allowing the shaft to rotate.
- The seal is a small rubber/metal lip pressed into the housing. It relies on a precise lip-to-shaft contact to hold oil back. Over time the lip hardens, tears, or the shaft gets scored/corroded and oil starts to weep or flow out.
- If left, gearbox oil level drops, bearings run short of lubrication, metal wear accelerates, and you can develop noisy bearings, overheating or catastrophic transaxle failure.
- Analogy: the seal is like a tight O‑ring ringed around a spinning rod — if the ring gets nicked or dried out, fluid leaks out along the rod.

Main components you will deal with (what everything is and does)
- Transaxle / gearbox housing: contains gears and oil; the output shaft protrudes from it.
- Output (axle) shaft stub: the rotating splined stub inside which the CV/halfshaft engages; its outer surface is what the seal contacts.
- Oil seal (output/axle seal): typically metal outer case with rubber lip(s) inside that press onto the shaft.
- Halfshaft / CV axle: transmits drive to the wheel; inner end engages the gearbox output shaft (often with a circlip).
- Wheel hub/knuckle: where the halfshaft outer splines engage; you’ll separate the hub to remove the axle.
- Axle nut: secures axle to hub. Often torque‑to‑spec and sometimes single‑use.
- CV joints, boots, bearings: inspect because a worn CV or hub bearing can cause seal damage or be damaged during removal.
- Fasteners, circlips, dust shields, brake caliper — components you will remove/position as part of the job.

Tools and consumables
- Safety gear: eye protection, gloves.
- Floor jack and 2 quality axle stands; wheel chocks.
- Impact wrench or breaker bar and correct socket for axle nut (size varies by engine/trim).
- Socket set, ratchet, extensions.
- Torque wrench (cover torque specs).
- Pry bars, seal puller, flat screwdriver, pick.
- Hammer and brass or wooden drift (for light tapping).
- Seal driver or suitably sized socket (to drive seal flush).
- Punch or drift for axle nut cotter pin if present.
- Plastic/metal scraper and clean rags, solvent.
- Gear oil to top up/refill (OEM recommended grade — see factory manual).
- New axle seal (OEM or exact-fit aftermarket), new axle nut if specified, possibly a circlip if damaged.
- Grease (small amount) or assembly lube.
- Jack stand block or support to hold hub/knuckle when disconnecting.
- (Optional) Puller for hub or tie rod separator, snap-ring pliers if applicable.

Preparation & safety
1. Work on a level surface. Chock rear wheels. Engage parking brake.
2. Loosen axle nut slightly while car is on ground (this avoids the wheel turning under torque). Do NOT fully remove it yet.
3. Jack front of car, support securely on axle stands under subframe or control arm points. Never rely on the hydraulic jack alone.
4. Remove the wheel.

Step‑by‑step procedure (workshop style)
These are typical steps for a front-wheel-drive Hyundai Getz transaxle axle seal replacement. Some small differences may exist between engines/years; follow factory manual for model‑specific items (bolt sizes, torques).

Removal
1. Remove wheel and access brake/hub assembly:
- Remove caliper (unbolt caliper guide bolts) and hang caliper with wire to avoid stress on brake hose. Remove brake disc if necessary.
2. Remove axle nut:
- Break and remove the axle nut fully. Keep track of any tab washer/cotter pin.
3. Free the outer CV joint from the hub:
- Disconnect lower ball joint or tie rod end so knuckle can swing out. On many Getz models you remove the lower ball joint pinch bolt (or hub assembly bolts) and swing the hub/knuckle outward. Support the hub so the CV doesn’t hang and damage the inner joint.
- If the outer CV won’t slide out, push the axle inward through the hub enough to free the splines; sometimes use a few light blows to the hub face with a dead blow mallet while supporting the hub.
4. Separate inner CV from transaxle:
- Pull the halfshaft outward until the inner splined end pulls out of the transaxle. For many CV axles the inner has a circlip; pull the shaft straight out collapsing the circlip or use a pry bar behind the inner CV joint to pop it free (support the transaxle or use a block to avoid levering on the housing excessively). Be careful not to drop the halfshaft.
5. Clean work area and inspect:
- With the axle removed, clean around the seal area with solvent and rags to see the seal condition and detect metal particles. Inspect the axle stub for scoring, rust or grooves where the seal rides.

Old seal removal
6. Remove the old seal:
- Use a seal puller, small pry bar, or hooked pick to grab and pry out the seal’s inner lip. Work evenly around to avoid damaging the housing bore. Be aware the metal housing of the seal can be sharp.
- Clean the bore thoroughly — remove old seal material, rust, and dirt. Do not use an aggressive chisel that will enlarge or distort the bore.

Shaft inspection and remedy
7. Inspect the output shaft surface carefully:
- Run your fingernail along the seal-contact surface. If you feel grooves, ridges or corrosion, the new seal will likely fail quickly.
- Light score can sometimes be smoothed with 400–600 grit emery very carefully and then cleaned. Deep grooves or pitting require replacing the shaft or fitting a repair sleeve (or replacing the transaxle assembly) — do not try to hide deep damage with just a new seal.
- Clean the shaft with solvent and dry.

New seal preparation & installation
8. Prepare the new seal:
- Lightly coat the sealing lip with clean gear oil or assembly grease. Do NOT use heavy grease that will wash away; a thin film prevents dry start wear and helps the seal slide in.
- Confirm the seal orientation: the sealing lip faces the gear oil (i.e., lips face inward toward the transaxle internals).
9. Install new seal:
- Position the new seal square to the bore. Use a seal driver or a socket whose outer diameter matches the seal’s outer case to press it evenly. Tap gently with a hammer until the seal is fully seated and flush with the housing as original. Do not cock the seal or drive it crooked; repeated light blows around the circumference are best.
- Make sure metal outer case is fully seated and not deformed.

Reinstallation of halfshaft and reassembly
10. Reinstall halfshaft inner end into transaxle:
- Align splines and push the inner CV into the transaxle until its circlip engages (you should feel or hear a definitive click). Make sure it seats fully; incomplete seating can damage seal or cause play.
11. Reposition hub/knuckle and engage outer spline:
- Reinstall outer CV into hub, aligning splines. Slide fully in.
12. Reinstall hub/brake components:
- Reinstall rotor, caliper, and any components removed. Torque caliper bolts and hub fasteners per specification.
13. Torque the axle nut:
- Tighten the axle nut to factory torque spec using a torque wrench. (Do not guess torque — the axle nut preload is critical to bearing life; consult the Hyundai factory manual or a trusted spec list for the exact Nm value for your Getz year/engine.)
- If the axle nut is a single‑use (crush) nut, replace it with a new one.
14. Reinstall wheel, lower the vehicle:
- Refit wheel, lower car to ground and torque wheel nuts to spec.

Refill and check oil level
15. Check/fill transaxle oil:
- If you lost a significant amount of gear oil during the job, top up to the correct level (fill until level is at the fill/check hole with vehicle level). Use recommended oil type/viscosity in the manual (commonly manual transaxles use GL‑4 gear oil; check exact grade).
16. Final checks:
- Start engine, cycle through gears with parking brake on and listen for noises, check for leaks around new seal.
- Road test gently and recheck oil level and for leaks after a short drive.

Common problems and how to avoid them
- New seal leaks immediately after install:
- Causes: seal installed upside down, cocked in bore, damaged during installation, shaft heavily scored, inner CV not fully seated leaving shaft misaligned.
- Fix: Remove and reinstall correctly; replace seal if damaged; repair shaft or replace transaxle if severely grooved.
- Axle nut torque wrong:
- Over‑tightening crushes wheel bearing; under‑tightening causes play and bearing damage. Always use specified torque.
- Pulling halfshaft out roughly:
- Damage to CV joints or transaxle internals; always support and use correct technique when popping out the inner joint. Use a block of wood behind the transaxle to protect housing if prying.
- Contaminated gearbox:
- Dirt entering when seal removed will damage gears and bearings. Keep everything clean and plug the fill hole if long downtime.
- Using wrong seal:
- Wrong diameter/inner lip design will leak; always fit OEM or exact fit.

Tips, do’s and don’ts
- Do use new axle nut if recommended; some are torque-to-yield or have washer/tab designs.
- Do clean mating surfaces thoroughly before assembly.
- Do grease the lip lightly; dry lip leads to premature wear on first startup.
- Don’t reuse a damaged seal or use a seal that doesn’t match the original dimension.
- Don’t hammer the seal directly on the rubber lip — use an appropriate driver so the force distributes to the metal case.
- Don’t rely on the hydraulic jack; always use stands.
- If deep scoring on shaft, consider replacement of the halfshaft (if the score is on the halfshaft spline area) or consultation for transaxle repair if the shaft is integral.

Diagnostic clues that tell you this job is needed
- Visible gear oil pooling under car, often toward front of car or under gearbox.
- Oil film on inner edges of wheel or on CV boot (boots can hide leaks).
- Low gearbox oil level, whining or grinding noises from gearbox or diff.
- Grease/gear oil contamination of CV boots (boots will be black/soaked).

Wrap‑up
- The job is straightforward for a mechanically inclined beginner with basic tools: remove halfshaft, replace seal, reinstall and torque correctly, refill/check oil.
- The critical points are: proper seal orientation/installation, careful shaft inspection (no deep scores), and correct axle nut torque.
- Always refer to the Hyundai Getz factory workshop manual for model/year specific details: torque values, axle nut size, oil type and exact sequences.

No fluff — follow these steps carefully, keep work area clean, and replace any worn related parts you find.
rteeqp73

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