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HYUNDAI GETZ 2006 to 2011 Workshop Service Repair Manual Digital Download

1) Safety & prep
- Park on level ground, engine cold, ignition off, key removed. Wear gloves and eye protection. Disconnect negative battery terminal if you’ll be working near electrical components.
- Theory: prevents burns, sparks; disconnecting battery avoids accidental cranking or electrical short during work.

2) Identify the PCV system on the Hyundai Getz
- Locate the valve cover and the breather hose(s). On Getz petrol engines the PCV valve is typically mounted in the valve cover or connected to it by a rubber grommet and a vacuum/hose to the intake manifold or throttle body. Consult the specific engine layout (1.1–1.6 petrol variants vary) and trace the hose from the intake manifold to the valve cover.
- Theory: PCV is a one-way valve in the crankcase ventilation path from crankcase/valve cover to intake vacuum; correct location varies but always between valve cover and intake.

3) Tools & parts
- Required: new OEM-quality PCV valve (and replacement hoses/grommet if brittle), pliers, screwdrivers, rags, small pick, vacuum pump or hand pump (optional for testing), carb/PCV cleaner (optional).
- Theory: replacement parts and basic hand tools are sufficient; old hoses/grommets often fail with age causing leaks.

4) Access and clear working area
- Remove engine cover or air intake ducting as needed for clear access. Note route of hoses for reassembly (photo if needed).
- Theory: good access prevents damage to adjacent components and ensures proper reconnection.

5) Remove PCV valve and hose
- Loosen clamps and gently pull the hose off the PCV valve. If valve is press-fit into a grommet in the valve cover, pull straight out; use pliers if necessary, protecting surrounding plastic. For threaded units, unscrew.
- Inspect hose and grommet condition; replace if cracked or hardened.
- Theory: PCV can be stuck due to oil/age; careful removal prevents damaging valve cover grommet which would create a vacuum leak.

6) Inspect the old valve
- Shake or blow through it: a working PCV allows flow one way (from crankcase to intake) and resists flow the other way. With the valve removed, a vacuum tool or mouth test should show one-way action. Visually inspect for carbon/oil clogging, broken internal spring, or stuck plate.
- Theory: a stuck-open valve causes excessive vacuum/lean or high oil consumption; stuck-closed causes crankcase pressure, oil leaks, sludge and white smoke.

7) Clean or replace
- Generally replace rather than clean. If reusing temporarily, soak and clean carbon deposits with appropriate cleaner and ensure one-way action works freely.
- Theory: cleaning may not restore reliable one-way action; a new valve restores correct flow characteristics and sealing.

8) Install new PCV valve
- Fit new valve into the grommet or hose. Ensure correct orientation: outlet side toward intake (one-way). Push fully into grommet until seated; reconnect hose and secure clamps. Replace grommet if hardened.
- Theory: correct orientation and sealing prevent vacuum leaks and ensure crankcase gases are drawn to intake at controlled rate.

9) Reassemble intake components
- Refit any intake ducting or engine covers removed. Reconnect negative battery if disconnected.
- Theory: restores original airflow paths and prevents unmetered air from entering.

10) Functional checks
- Start engine and observe idle: should be smooth with stable RPM. Check for vacuum leaks (hissing, high idle, fluctuating revs). Check for oil leaks at valve cover/grommet. Use a vacuum gauge if available to confirm stable manifold vacuum.
- Optional: use a handheld vacuum pump on the PCV valve inlet (with engine off) to confirm one-way behavior under vacuum.
- Theory: a working PCV removes blow-by gases into intake; replacement eliminates stuck or leaking valves that caused idle instability, oil consumption, blow-by smell or smoke.

11) Road/test and verify fault resolution
- Drive to normal operating temperature. Monitor for return of previous symptoms: oil consumption, smoke from tailpipe, oil leaks at seals, rough idle, or check engine lamp. If symptoms persist, inspect hoses, intake manifold gasket, throttle body carbon, and MAF/vacuum system.
- Theory: replacing PCV resolves issues caused by malfunctioning one-way valve; if symptoms persist another source (vacuum leak, worn PC rings) may be present.

12) Why the repair fixes the fault (concise theory)
- The PCV valve controls evacuation of crankcase gases (blow-by) to the intake using engine vacuum and a one-way check. If it sticks open: excessive vacuum draws oil into intake -> smoking, oil consumption, lean/rough idle. If it sticks closed or is clogged: crankcase pressure builds -> oil leaks, gasket/seal failure, sludge, and reduced ventilation. Replacing the PCV restores controlled one-way flow, eliminating vacuum imbalance or stuck/closed conditions, stopping oil ingestion or crankcase overpressure and thus curing the common symptoms.

End—follow manufacturer intervals for replacement and replace associated rubber hoses/grommets when aged.
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