Brief ordered workshop procedure with theory and explanation of how the repair fixes the fault.

Preparation / diagnosis (why first)
1. Read stored faults with a scanner (look for P030x misfire or P035x coil primary/secondary codes). Theory: the ECU logs misfires/ignition driver faults; codes point to a cylinder or coil channel.
2. Live-data check: monitor misfire counters, ignition dwell/coil command, RPM and fuel trims. Theory: confirms intermittent vs constant misfire and whether ECU is commanding the coil correctly.
3. Confirm faulty coil: swap-test coils (move suspect cylinder’s coil to another cylinder and see if misfire moves) or bench-test with multimeter/ignition tester. Theory: a bad coil will transfer the misfire with the coil or fail bench electrical tests; this isolates the coil from wiring/ECU failures.

Safety & prep
4. Let engine cool. Disconnect negative battery terminal to avoid sparks and ECU anomalies. Wear eye protection and gloves. Theory: prevents ignition shock and accidental cranking/shorts.

Removal (in-order workshop steps)
5. Remove engine cover and any obstructing components to access coils. Theory: coils sit on top of each spark plug (coil‑on‑plug) or in a pack; you need clear access.
6. Disconnect electrical connector from the coil: press tab and pull straight out. Theory: disconnecting isolates coil from ECU and removes risk of connector damage.
7. Remove mounting bolt(s) holding the coil (use correct socket). Typical coil bolt torque low — tighten by torque wrench to spec on reinstallation. Theory: coil must be held secure to make good electrical/thermal contact and prevent vibration damage.
8. Pull the coil straight out from the spark plug well. Inspect the boot and coil for cracks, carbon tracking, corrosion or oil ingress. Theory: physical damage/contamination causes grounding/leakage and weak/no spark.
9. Inspect the spark plug in that hole. Measure gap and check condition; if worn, replace the plug. Theory: a worn/high-gap plug increases required voltage and stresses the coil; replacing coil without a worn plug leaves root cause in place.

Testing (optional at bench)
10. Measure primary and secondary resistance with DMM and compare to factory spec (primary typically a few ohms; secondary typically kilo-ohms range). Use a proper ignition tester for high-voltage output if available. Theory: resistance out of spec indicates internal short/open or insulation breakdown.

Installation (in-order workshop steps)
11. If replacing the spark plug, fit a new plug per spec and torque to factory value (use anti-seize only if OEM recommends; check gap). Theory: correct spark plug restores expected voltage requirement and combustion quality.
12. Apply a small smear of dielectric grease inside the coil boot (not on the plug electrode). Fit the new coil into the plug well, seating it fully on the plug. Theory: dielectric grease improves connection, reduces moisture intrusion and makes future removal easier.
13. Fit the coil mounting bolt(s) and torque to manufacturer spec (coils use low torque—typically single-digit Nm; verify exact value). Reconnect the electrical connector.
14. Reconnect battery negative terminal.

Final checks / confirmation
15. Clear stored codes with the scanner and start engine. Observe idle and live misfire counters. Theory: clearing codes and re-running verifies the fault is resolved and confirms the new coil functions under ECU control.
16. Road test under load and re-check for DTCs. Re-scan. If misfire persists on same cylinder after replacement, inspect wiring/ECU driver and fuel injector on that cylinder.

How the repair fixes the fault (theory)
- Function of coil: the ignition coil is a step-up transformer. The primary winding (low-voltage) is pulsed by the ECU/ignition driver; the collapsing magnetic field induces a very high voltage in the secondary winding that is delivered to the spark plug to ignite the mixture.
- Failure modes: internal short/open, insulation breakdown, cracked housing/boot, moisture ingress, or degraded windings reduce or eliminate high-voltage output. A worn spark plug can also force the coil to run at higher voltage, accelerating coil failure.
- How replacement fixes it: a new coil restores correct primary/secondary integrity and insulation, delivering the required high-voltage pulse to the spark plug. That restores combustion timing/energy for the affected cylinder, eliminating misfires, rough idle, poor fuel economy, increased emissions and check-engine codes. Replacing the spark plug at the same time removes an additional load that could cause repeated coil failure.
- Confirming success: a cleared codebase, zero or reduced misfire counters, stable idle and normal fuel trims confirm that the ignition energy problem was eliminated.

Quick checklist for workshop quality control
- Confirm code and misfire location before replacing.
- Inspect plug, boot, connector and wiring as part of replacement.
- Use correct torque values and new or properly gapped plugs.
- Clear codes and verify with scan tool and road test.

Done.
rteeqp73

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