After being revealed as a concept car at the 2001 Tokyo Motor Show, under the Hyundai TB name, the Getz had its world premiere at the 2002 Geneva Motor Show. It was designed at Hyundai's European engineering center in Frankfurt, Germany, and was released in three and five-door hatchback body styles.

The Hyundai Getz was manufactured at the factory in Ulsan, South Korea, between 2002 and 2011, and at the Hyundai Motor India factory in Chennai, India, between 2004 and 2009. It was also assembled for the local markets in Barcelona, Venezuela (MMC Automotriz), in Kulim, Malaysia (Inokom) and in Taipei, Taiwan (SYM Motors).
Facelift
Facelift Hyundai Getz 1.6 3-door
Facelift Hyundai Getz S 3-door
Facelift Hyundai Getz 5-door

In the autumn of 2005, the facelifted version of the Getz was revealed at the Frankfurt Motor Show. It gained new front and rear styling, with rounded headlights and a redesigned grille, as well as a new 1.5-litre diesel engine option (in Europe) and a new 1.4-litre petrol engine, upgraded dash and interior fascia and trim.

In the United Kingdom, air conditioning and side airbags were fitted to the CDX as standard equipment.

This facelifted model, however, was not offered in Venezuela (where it sold as the Dodge Brisa). Instead, the local arm of Hyundai continued to sell the pre-2005 model.
Regional variants

In Venezuela, the Hyundai Getz was assembled locally featuring its 1.6 Litre petrol engine, mated to a 5-speed manual or 4-speed automatic transmission. Also the Getz was badge-engineered as the Dodge Brisa in its 1.3-litre, 4-speed manual transmission configuration. This new model replaced the Accent-based Brisa that debuted in that market in April 2002. In recent years, Hyundai Getz where factory equipped with a CNG kit, allowing dual fuel use of petrol or natural gas. Assembly of the Getz ended in 2014 in Venezuela.

In Malaysia, the Getz was locally assembled as the Inokom Getz. The model offers both manual and automatic transmission with a single 1.4-litre petrol engine option.[13] In the last quarter of 2009, Inokom launched a limited edition Getz SE, which featured leather interior, sporty body kit and grill and side mirrors with indicators. Only 300 units of this variant were produced.
Electric version

Between 2008 and 2011, a fully electric version of the Getz was sold in New Zealand and Australia called the Blade Electron. This model has a top speed of 120 km/h (75 mph) and a range of 120 kilometres (75 mi) on a full charge.

At launch there were three petrol engines available, a 1.1-litre, a 1.3-litre and a 1.6-litre, and one diesel option, a 1.5-litre three-cylinder unit, licensed from VM Motori. When the Getz was introduced to the market in Australia it was brought out with only the 1.5l petrol G4EC engine. After the facelift in 2005, a new 1.4-litre petrol engine replaced the 1.3-litre unit, and a new 1.5-litre four-cylinder diesel engine, with variable geometry turbocharger and two power output levels, was introduced in place of the three-cylinder option. The Diesel engines never made it to Australia. But the introduction of the 1.4 L DOHC and the 1.6 L DOHC replaced the 1.5 L motor. The 1.4 L Engine though very efficient and reliable was no power plant when it came to using the a/c whilst climbing a hill. Especially in the automatic transmission However, the availability of engine options varied depending on market.

There were four-speed automatic transmission options, with overdrive and torque converter, for the 1.3-litre and 1.6-litre petrol versions, and after the facelift also for the 1.4-litre, and five-speed manual options for all engines.
In the United Kingdom, the trim levels offered were GSI, CDX and Sport,while in New Zealand, they were XD and XE.

In Australia, the trim levels were XL, GL and FX. After the facelift, the XL and GL were dropped, while the FX was replaced by the sporty SXi trim, The rest of the models were referred to as "Getz". Half-way through 2006, the SXi was dropped, leaving just the base Getz with the option of 1.4 or 1.6-litre engines. In early 2008, the Getz 1.4 was named S, and the 1.6 was named SX.

The top level generally included, among other features, front and side airbags, anti-lock braking system (ABS) with electronic brakeforce distribution (EBD), remote central locking with alarm, 14-inch alloy wheels, front fog lights, air conditioning, heated electric door mirrors, electric tilt and slide sunroof, electric front and rear windows, CD player and trip computer. The 1.6-litre version featured 15-inch alloy wheels. As optional features there were leather upholstery, metallic paint or satellite navigation.In Australia, electronic stability control (ESC), traction control (TSC), bluetooth handsfree and MP3 player with USB connectivity were also offered.

A special trim level called the Getz Cross features SUV design elements such as extended wheel arches, roof rack, raised suspension and larger wheels. It was offered with the 1.4-litre and 1.6-litre petrol engines, or with the 1.5-litre diesel engine.

In South Africa the SR sport edition was also introduced in 2010 and was manufactured up until 2012.This edition included full leather interior, bodykit, special SR rims and badges among others.

In late 2008, the i20 was introduced, replacing the Getz in most markets. In Europe, the Getz co-existed with the i20 until it was completely phased out in 2011. The Getz continued to be sold in the Australian market until December 2010. In India, the car was discontinued due to falling demand as compared to the warm response received by the i20 and the introduction of the new Euro 4 emission norms from May 2010.

In mid-2011, the Click was replaced in the South Korean market by the Hyundai Accent WIT. In Japan, where it was known as the TB, the car was discontinued shortly before Hyundai officially announced the departure of its passenger car division from the market in late-2009. Countries that do not offer the i20 or Accent hatchback have designated the i10 as the Getz's replacement.

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Purpose and theory (short)
- The clutch release (throw‑out) bearing sits between the clutch fork (or concentric slave piston) and the pressure‑plate fingers. When you depress the pedal the bearing transmits axial force to disengage the pressure plate so the input shaft can spin independently of the engine.
- A worn/damaged bearing makes noise when the pedal is pressed, can cause rough engagement, vibration, or sticking; it also accelerates wear of the pressure‑plate fingers and fork/cylinder components.
- Replacing the bearing restores the low‑friction axial interface and correct bearing preload/clearance so the pressure plate operates smoothly and the transmission input shaft is not abraded.

Before you begin (safety + verification)
1. Work in a properly equipped workshop with jackstands or a lift, transmission jack, full toolset, clutch alignment tool, torque wrench, and the Hyundai service manual (for torque figures and exact removal order).
2. Verify the Getz’s clutch actuation type: external bearing on a fork (mechanical linkage or hydraulic slave cylinder) or concentric slave (CSC). The removal differs mainly in how the gearbox is disconnected and in the bearing assembly shape.
3. Wear safety gear, disconnect the negative battery terminal, relieve fuel system/vents if needed, and support the engine with a suitable support bar if the gearbox mounts are removed.

Ordered repair procedure (typical sequence)
1. Prepare and support vehicle
- Raise vehicle on lift or jackstands; ensure stable support.
- Remove undercovers as needed.

2. Remove intake/obstructions and wheels
- Remove any engine covers, airbox intake piping, battery and tray if they block access to the transmission.
- Remove both front wheels where driveshafts are accessible.

3. Drain and remove necessary peripherals
- Drain gearbox oil if required for transmission drop (some designs allow tilt without full drain).
- Remove lower engine/transmission crossmember or braces that attach to bellhousing.
- Remove drive shafts (CV axles) from the transaxle: unbolt hubs/axle nuts, release from hub and withdraw from transmission side (support the hub to avoid straining half‑shafts).

4. Disconnect clutch hydraulic or linkage and sensors
- If hydraulic: disconnect clutch slave cylinder hydraulic line(s) from cylinder or master; cap lines and be ready to bleed later.
- If cable/linkage: disconnect the release cable linkage.
- Disconnect speed sensors, reverse switch, starter motor wiring, and any wiring harnesses attached to the gearbox.

5. Support transmission and unbolt
- Place transmission jack under gearbox. Support engine as required (engine mount(s) may be removed).
- Remove bellhousing bolts in an appropriate sequence and lower gearbox straight back off the engine. Take care to clear the input shaft from the clutch splines.

6. Remove clutch assembly components
- With the gearbox removed, remove pressure plate bolts evenly in a star pattern to relieve diaphragm spring tension.
- Remove pressure plate and clutch disc; inspect friction surface for wear, glazing, oil contamination.
- Remove release bearing from the fork or remove the concentric slave as an assembly.

7. Inspect related components (theory and checks)
- Pressure plate: check for heat spots, cracked diaphragm fingers, uneven wear. Diaphragm finger wear causes irregular contact and premature bearing failure.
- Clutch disc: check rivet height, lining thickness and contamination. A worn disc causes overtravel and excessive force on the bearing.
- Pilot bearing/bushing in the crankshaft end: inspect for play or roughness; replace if suspect. A failed pilot causes input shaft misalignment and bearing overload.
- Transmission input shaft splines and nose: check for scoring or fretting; clean and lightly grease splines with recommended high‑temp grease (sparingly).
- Clutch fork and pivot: check for wear or broken pivot. A worn pivot will misalign the bearing and cause localized wear.

8. Replace the release bearing correctly
- For external bearing on fork: clean contact surfaces, slide new bearing onto the collar or fork end in the correct orientation so the rolling face contacts the pressure‑plate fingers when compressed. If the bearing has directional marking, observe them.
- For concentric slave: replace CSC as an assembly (the internal bearing is usually not serviceable separately). Install according to manufacturer orientation and torque.

9. Replace clutch components (recommended)
- Best practice: replace pressure plate, clutch disc, and release bearing as an assembly (clutch kit). Align the clutch disc using an alignment tool to center it on the crank pilot before tightening pressure plate bolts.
- Tighten pressure plate bolts in a star pattern to the specified torque in the factory manual.

10. Reinstall gearbox and reassemble
- Lightly lubricate input shaft splines; ensure clutch disc stays centered on pilot.
- Use the transmission jack to lift the gearbox and engage input shaft into the clutch spline and pilot. Align bellhousing and torque bolts to spec.
- Reinstall engine/transmission mounts, crossmember, driveshafts, starter, wiring, sensors and reconnect hydraulic lines or linkage.

11. Bleed and adjust clutch system
- For hydraulic: bleed clutch hydraulics thoroughly to remove air; check pedal free play and height to spec.
- For cable: adjust freeplay according to manual.
- Refill gearbox oil to spec if drained.

12. Test and final checks
- With vehicle safely on ground, start engine, check for unusual noises with pedal depressed and released, confirm smooth engagement/disengagement through a test drive, verify no leaks, and torques are correct after first heat cycle.

How the repair fixes the fault (concise)
- The release bearing provides a low‑friction, rolling contact between the pedal actuation mechanism and the pressure‑plate fingers. A worn or seized bearing changes that interface into a rough, noisy, or binding contact, causing noise when the pedal is pressed, uneven pressure plate operation, and accelerated wear of the clutch assembly.
- Replacing the bearing removes the worn/binding surface, restoring correct rolling contact and preload. If you also replace or properly inspect/replace the pressure plate, disc, pilot bearing, and worn pivot parts, you restore proper alignment and travel so the clutch disengages and re-engages smoothly, stops the noise/vibration, and prevents further damage.

Key workshop notes (no fluff)
- Always inspect/replace pilot bearing and check input‑shaft splines; do not over‑grease splines (a thin film only).
- If concentric slave is fitted, replace as a unit — its internal bearing is not serviceable.
- Always torque bolts to Hyundai spec and follow tightening sequence.
- Replace hydraulic components showing wear (slave or master) while gearbox is out — they’re inexpensive insurance.
- Use a clutch alignment tool to avoid misalignment and premature release bearing/throw‑out damage.

This procedure is the typical, ordered workshop workflow plus the theory of why each inspection and replacement step matters. Follow the Hyundai Getz factory service manual for exact fastener torques, sequence, and any model‑specific variations.
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Summary (what you’ll achieve)
- Replace worn suspension dampers (front struts and rear shock absorbers) on a Hyundai Getz so the car rides safely, steers predictably and brakes correctly. I’ll explain every component, why you replace it, how the system works, how to do the job step‑by‑step for a workshop/garage, important safety points and common failures.

Short practical notes up front
- Replace dampers in pairs (both fronts or both rears) — mismatched damping = unstable handling.
- After replacing dampers you must get a wheel alignment.
- Use a quality spring compressor for front struts. Compressed springs can be lethal — treat them with respect.
- Work on a level surface, use rated jack stands, wear eye protection and gloves.

What a damper/strut assembly is (components described)
- Strut / Damper (Shock absorber): a hydraulic piston assembly in a tube filled with oil/gas. Converts oscillation energy into heat via valves.
- Coil spring (front strut): supports static vehicle weight and sets ride height. On front MacPherson struts the spring sits over the shock.
- Strut top mount / Bearing (strut mount): rubber/metal piece that mounts the strut to the body at the top. Bearing lets the strut rotate with the steering.
- Dust boot: rubber cover protecting the piston shaft from dirt.
- Bump stop (jounce bumper): rubber/foam piece on the shaft to prevent metal‑to‑metal bottoming on big bumps.
- Lower mounting flange / eye: the part of the damper bolted to the steering knuckle or suspension arm.
- Sway bar (stabilizer) link and bracket: connects anti‑roll bar to the strut (often a small link with ball joints).
- Brake hose / ABS sensor brackets: clamps that attach brake lines and sensor wires to the strut/knuckle.
- Top nuts, lower bolts and washers: hardware that secures everything.

Theory — why dampers are needed and how they work (plain language)
- Springs store energy. When you hit a bump the spring compresses and then bounces back. Without damping the car would oscillate for a long time (think of a pogo stick).
- The damper is the “brake” for the spring. Inside the damper a piston forces oil through tiny valves as the piston moves; that flow restriction converts the kinetic energy of oscillation into heat and slows the motion so the car stops bouncing quickly.
- Compression damping = resistance when the damper shortens (wheel hitting bump). Rebound damping = resistance when it extends (wheel coming down). Proper balance keeps tires in contact with the road.
- Analogy: spring = trampoline; damper = someone holding the trampoline edge to stop it from bouncing wildly.

Why you replace dampers
- Oil leaks on the damper body — sign of failed seals.
- Excessive bounce or poor control (car floats, dives in braking).
- Knocking, clunking noises over bumps — failed mount or worn internals.
- Uneven tyre wear, longer braking distances or instability in curves.
- Physical damage to damper body or piston rod pitting.

What can go wrong (both with worn dampers and during replacement)
- Worn dampers: loss of road contact, longer stopping, wheel hop, irregular tyre wear, collapsed ride height.
- During replacement: compressed spring releasing unexpectedly (serious injury), seized bolts that snap or round off, damaging brake lines or ABS wires, re‑using stretched/old top mounts causing noise, improper torque causing nuts to loosen, forgetting to fully support hub leading to damaged CV boots or ball joints.
- After replacement: incorrect parts, wrong spring orientation, no alignment, new noisy mount, leakage from incorrect assembly.

Tools & consumables you’ll need
- Hydraulic floor jack + quality jack stands (rated).
- Wheel chocks.
- Socket set (10, 12, 14, 17, 19, 21mm common sizes — confirm sizes on the car), deep sockets, extensions.
- Torque wrench (capable to at least ~200 Nm).
- Breaker bar.
- Spring compressor (for front coil springs) — either internal or external type designed for that spring.
- Screwdrivers, pliers, hammer, punch.
- Penetrating oil (PB Blaster, WD‑40) and wire brush.
- Caliper hanger or steel wire to hang brake caliper.
- New replacement dampers (or complete strut assemblies), new top mounts (recommended for fronts), new nuts/bolts (preferred), new swaybar link(s) if worn.
- Grease, anti‑seize, thread locker (where specified).
- Torque specs / workshop manual for Hyundai Getz (recommended).

Important safety reminders
- Never work with a car supported only by a jack. Use jack stands on rated lift points.
- When using a spring compressor, compress evenly and check condition of compressor. Never use makeshift methods.
- Wear eye protection and gloves.
- If bolts are heavily corroded, take care when applying heat — don’t compromise rubber lines.

Step‑by‑step workshop procedure — Front strut replacement (MacPherson strut)
Notes specific to Getz: front is MacPherson strut; similar to most small cars. Always check exact bolt sizes on your model year.

1) Prep
- Park on level ground, engage handbrake, chock rear wheels.
- Loosen front wheel lug nuts slightly while car is on ground.

2) Lift & remove wheel
- Jack under the manufacturer front lifting point, raise and support on jack stands.
- Fully remove wheel.

3) Access top mount
- Open bonnet. Remove any plastic cover over strut towers. Identify the three top nuts (usually 3 studs).
- Apply penetrating oil to top nuts.

4) Disconnect lower attachments
- Support the hub/knuckle assembly (use a jack under the lower control arm or a transmission jack).
- Remove sway bar link nut at strut (if attached to strut body). Note any spacers.
- Remove bracket(s) holding brake hose and ABS sensor wiring from the strut so they don’t get stressed.
- Remove the lower strut-to-knuckle bolts/nut(s). These may be large (e.g. 17–21mm) and can be seized — use penetrating oil and breaker bar. If the lower nut is on the front, you may have to hold the bolt head with a hex socket inside the knuckle if accessible.

5) Remove top nuts
- With hub supported so that the lower bolts are free, remove the top mount nuts inside the engine bay. Have someone hold the strut from below or support it (it can drop).
- Withdraw the whole strut assembly downwards from the wheel well.

6) Compress the spring (critical)
- Clamp the coil spring in the spring compressor per tool instructions. Compress until the spring has relieved pressure from the top mount. Double‑check compressor security.
- Remove the centre top nut securing the strut shaft to the top mount (usually requires a thin‑walled socket and holding the shaft with an Allen key or special tool).
- Remove top mount, dust boot and bump stop as needed and remove spring.

7) Build new assembly
- If you purchased a complete strut (pre‑assembled), skip reassembly and fit that. Otherwise:
- Slide new damper into spring, place bump stop and dust boot, place spring with correct orientation (note the spring seat cutout position — match the original orientation), place top mount/bearing and tighten the strut shaft nut while the spring is compressed (follow torque spec).
- Torque the strut shaft top nut to specified value (see manual). Only tighten with the spring compressed.

8) Reinstall the strut
- Lower the assembled strut into the tower so studs pass through body.
- Finger-tighten top nuts first (do not torque yet). Attach lower strut bolts to knuckle and tighten to spec. Note: many techs fit and torque lower bolts with wheel/hub unloaded; follow manual. If using torque values, apply proper torque with torque wrench.
- Reattach swaybar link, brake hose bracket and ABS sensor clip.
- Torque top nuts to spec with vehicle at rest (some manuals request final torque with suspension supporting the car — check manual).

9) Refit wheel, torque lug nuts to spec (approx 110–130 Nm typical), lower car to ground.

10) Repeat other side.

Step‑by‑step workshop procedure — Rear shock absorbers (Getz typical rear shocks)
Rear on Getz is usually a simple shock absorber (not a strut). Two mounts: top (in wheel arch or trunk) and bottom eye bolt.

1) Prep
- As above: chock wheels, loosen lug nuts, jack and support on stands.

2) Remove wheel
- Remove wheel for access.

3) Access top nut
- Open luggage area or wheel arch trim; locate the top shock stud and remove top nut (or remove inside wheel arch).

4) Support suspension
- Support the rear axle or trailing arm with a jack so it won’t drop when you remove the shock.

5) Remove lower bolt and top nut
- Remove lower shock bolt (may be a through-bolt). Remove top nut and remove the shock.
- Inspect top rubber bush and replace if worn.

6) Fit new shock
- Fit new shock into top mount and loosely fit top nut. Fit lower bolt and tighten to spec. Then torque top nut to spec.

7) Refit wheel and lower car.

Hardware and fitment notes
- Use new nuts/bolts if old ones are corroded. Replace any perished rubber mounts/insulators.
- If you buy “complete” front struts (pre-assembled with spring/top mount) you avoid spring compressor work.
- Replace dust boots and bump stops if deteriorated.

Torque examples and final tightening (IMPORTANT)
- Torque values vary by year/model. Always confirm against Hyundai Getz workshop manual. Typical example ranges (do not treat as exact; confirm):
- Wheel lug nuts: 110–130 Nm
- Front strut to knuckle lower bolts: 100–140 Nm
- Strut top nut (shaft): 40–70 Nm (or as specified)
- Swaybar link nut: 35–55 Nm
- Rear shock lower bolt: 80–120 Nm
- If you do not have the manual, get exact specs before doing the job.

Checks and adjustments after install
- Road test slowly first, check for noises/clunks.
- Get a full wheel alignment immediately.
- Re‑check all fasteners after 50–100 km.
- Inspect for fluid leaks from new dampers after test drive.

Troubleshooting common problems
- Clunking over bumps after fitment: likely top mount loose/worn, or swaybar link/line snagging. Re‑check torque and routing.
- Vehicle still bounces: dampers may be incorrect spec, or springs/mounts worn.
- Uneven ride height: bad spring or incorrect assembly orientation.
- Hard steering: check top mount bearing fit and swaybar link torque.
- Seized lower bolt: heat with a torch (careful near rubber lines) and use penetrating oil; use impact wrench if available.

Inspection checklist (what else to check while you’re in there)
- Top mounts and bearings for play/noise.
- Coil springs for cracks, sagging or broken coils.
- Dust boots and bump stops.
- Swaybar links and bushings.
- Control arm bushings and ball joints.
- Brake hoses and ABS wiring routing; ensure nothing rubs against new strut.
- Wheel bearings and tie rod ends.

Parts to buy (recommended)
- New dampers (or complete front strut assemblies)
- New top mounts and bearings (front)
- New lower bolts/nuts if corroded
- New swaybar links if play present
- Dust boots and bump stops if old
- Anti‑seize and thread locker

Final words — safe workshop practice
- If you’re unsure about spring compressors or separating struts, buy complete assembled struts or have a shop press your springs. That eliminates the most hazardous step.
- Take photos before disassembly so you can refit components exactly as removed.
- Do not rush. Proper torques and alignment are as important as parts fitment.

That’s the full workshop‑style guide for replacing dampers on a Hyundai Getz. Follow safety rules, verify torque specs in the factory manual for your exact year and engine option, and always do an alignment after replacement.
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