Tools needed
- Flathead screwdriver (cross/Philips if clamp screws are Phillips)
- 8–10 mm socket and ratchet (for airbox bolts/clamps)
- Hose clamp pliers or adjustable pliers (for spring clamps)
- Long-nose pliers
- Small flat pick or trim tool (to release clips)
- Utility knife or hose cutter (if hose is seized and must be cut)
- Rags and brake-cleaner or carb cleaner (to remove oil residue)
- Work light, nitrile gloves, safety glasses

Replacement parts & consumables
- Replacement breather/PCV hose (OEM part or high-temp vacuum hose of correct inner diameter)
- New clamps (spring-type or worm-drive) — replace spring clamps if brittle; worm clamps if required
- Optional: new PCV valve (recommended if old one is sticky)
- Small amount of silicone grease (optional, to ease hose fitment)

Safety precautions
- Work on a cold engine. Hot engines and components can cause burns.
- Park on level ground, set parking brake; use wheel chocks if needed.
- Wear safety glasses and gloves — the hose can have oil and debris.
- Disconnect negative battery terminal only if you’ll be working around electrical components or if instructed by service manual (not strictly required for hose swap but safe if you’ll be moving sensors/wiring).
- Avoid open flames and sparks—crankcase vapors and spilled cleaner are flammable.
- Dispose of oily hoses/cloths according to local regulations.

Step‑by‑step: replace the breather/PCV hose (Hyundai Getz)
1. Prepare
- Let engine cool 30+ minutes.
- Open bonnet and locate valve cover and intake/airbox. On Getz petrol engines the breather/PCV hose runs from the valve cover (PCV outlet) to the intake manifold or air inlet/airbox.

2. Inspect and identify connections
- Trace the hose path and note clamp types (spring or worm). Identify the PCV valve location (a small plastic valve fitted into the valve cover or hose).

3. Remove obstructing components if needed
- If the hose route is under the airbox lid, remove the airbox top: undo 8–10 mm bolts/clamps and lift off. Use socket/ratchet or screwdriver as required.
- Use trim tool to release any wiring clips holding the hose away from hot components.

4. Release clamps
- For spring clamps: use hose clamp pliers or long-nose pliers to compress the clamp and slide it back along the hose away from the fitting. Hold compressed while you remove the hose.
- For worm-drive clamps: use flathead screwdriver or appropriate socket to loosen the screw several turns, then slide the clamp back.

How the tools are used:
- Hose clamp pliers: squeeze handles to open spring clamp, keeping it compressed while you slide it off the barb. Some pliers can lock; others require a helper.
- Screwdriver/socket: turn clockwise to tighten, counterclockwise to loosen. Back out enough to allow hose removal.

5. Free the hose from fittings
- Twist the hose gently while pulling to break seal. If it’s stuck, push a flat screwdriver between hose and nipple and twist carefully — avoid prying on plastic fittings to prevent cracks.
- If hose won’t move, spray a little penetrating oil or use a hot rag (careful) to soften; as a last resort cut the hose lengthwise with a utility knife and peel it off the fitting.

6. Remove PCV valve (if part of assembly)
- Pull the PCV valve out of the valve cover by wiggling while pulling straight up/down. If stuck, twist gently. Inspect valve — if sticky or clogged, replace.

7. Clean fittings
- Wipe oil and debris from the valve cover outlet and intake nipple with a rag and cleaner to ensure a good seal for the new hose.

8. Prepare and fit new hose
- Verify inner diameter and length match original. If using a universal hose, ensure it’s high‑temp oil/heat resistant and not kinked in routing.
- Place clamps onto the hose before installation (always put clamps on hose first).
- Push the hose fully onto each barb: ensure it seats over the raised bead on the fitting for positive retention.
- Position clamps over the barb area and tighten:
- For spring clamps: slide to correct position and release.
- For worm clamps: tighten until snug — do not over-torque; just enough to compress the hose, avoid crushing or cutting it.

How to use clamps:
- Spring clamp: compress with clamp pliers, slide into position, release so it grips uniformly.
- Worm clamp: use screwdriver/socket; tighten until the hose material bulges slightly at clamp, then stop.

9. Reinstall removed components
- Refit airbox lid, bolts, wiring clips. Ensure hose is routed away from hot exhaust or moving parts.

10. Test
- Start engine and let idle. Check for hissing or rough idle (vacuum leak) and inspect hose/clamp for oil seepage.
- Rev slightly and watch for check engine light or irregular response. Re-tighten if any leaks found.

Common pitfalls & how to avoid them
- Reusing old brittle hose or clamps: replace them. Old hoses collapse or crack; old spring clamps can lose tension.
- Overtightening worm clamps: this can cut the hose or crack plastic fittings. Tighten until secure—don’t muscle it.
- Damaging plastic fittings: avoid prying on plastic nipple with screwdriver; twist while pulling, use penetrating oil or cut hose if necessary.
- Wrong hose ID/length: use same inner diameter and sufficient length — too small leaks, too long can kink and cause restrictions.
- Forgetting PCV valve inspection: a stuck PCV causes pressure build-up and oil leaks; replace if any sign of sticking or clog.
- Poor routing: routing near hot exhaust or sharp edges will shorten hose life. Secure with clips away from moving parts.
- Not checking for vacuum leaks after fitting: idle changes or hissing indicate improper seal—re-check clamps and seating.

Notes on parts
- Hyundai OEM part is recommended for best fit; however any oil-resistant, high-temp vacuum hose with correct ID will work.
- Replace plastic spring clamps if they are corroded or deformed.
- If the PCV valve is more than a few years old or shows oil sludge, replace it with the OEM part.

Follow these steps and checks and you’ll have a leak‑free breather hose replacement on a Hyundai Getz.
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1) Prepare and safety checks
- What to do: clean wheel rims, set tyre pressures to manufacturer spec, confirm no unusual loads, fit steering damper if used. Raise vehicle on alignment rack, remove wheel covers.
- Theory: tyre pressure and load change effective rolling radius and static camber under load, so they must match service conditions for accurate geometric measurement.
- How this fixes faults: eliminates measurement error that would otherwise produce an incorrect alignment and mask real steering/tire wear causes.

2) Visual and mechanical inspection (before measuring)
- What to do: check tyres for uneven wear, sidewall damage; inspect ball joints, tie-rod ends, rack boots, control-arm bushes, strut mounts, wheel bearings, rear trailing arm bushings and eccentric bolts, and subframe/chassis for damage. Check steering column and steering wheel centring.
- Theory: wheel alignment corrects geometry, but worn/loose suspension or steering components introduce free play and allow geometry to move under load; aligning without fixing wear will return to out-of-spec under driving.
- How this fixes faults: identifying and replacing worn parts (tie rods, bushings, joints) restores fixed pivot points so geometry adjustments stay true and steering feedback is restored.

3) Record initial measurements
- What to do: zero the alignment machine, attach sensors, measure front and rear camber, caster, toe, and thrust angle; record steering wheel off-set.
- Theory: baseline measurements show which parameters are out and by how much; caster/camber/steering axis angle affect handling and tyre contact patch; toe and thrust angle determine rolling direction and scrub.
- How this fixes faults: quantifying the fault directs targeted corrections rather than guesswork.

4) Repair/replace worn components found in inspection
- What to do: replace worn tie-rod ends, inner tie rod, ball joints, control arm bushings, strut mounts, wheel bearings, steering rack if excessive play or torn boots, and tighten/replace rear eccentric bolts/bushes as needed. Torque to spec.
- Theory: these parts define suspension pivot points. Wear creates variable geometry and free play that causes wandering, uneven wear, and incorrect returnability.
- How repair fixes faults: new components restore rigid pivot points and predictable geometry so alignment adjustments become stable and durable.

5) Set ride height and suspension preload
- What to do: bring vehicle to normal ride height (lower from hoist so suspension loaded as on road) per procedure of your alignment rack (many require drive-on plates or load plates).
- Theory: camber and toe change with suspension travel; measuring at correct ride height ensures geometry matches road conditions.
- How this fixes faults: prevents a corrected alignment at unloaded height from going out of spec under normal driving conditions.

6) Center steering wheel and lock
- What to do: set steering wheel centrally; use steering wheel centering tool or align to marks. If steering wheel is off-center on measurement, make an initial correction with steering column splines (if adjustable) only after mechanical faults fixed.
- Theory: steering wheel centring ensures symmetrical steering geometry; asymmetric steering wheel indicates unequal left/right toe or a miscentered rack or steering column.
- How this fixes faults: correct centering prevents driver having to hold steering off-centre and ensures equal steering lock and returnability.

7) Adjust front toe (primary adjustable parameter)
- What to do: adjust toe using outer tie-rod adjustment (turn sleeves) until front total and individual toe values match OEM spec. Re-check steering wheel center after small adjustments and re-center if needed.
- Theory: toe-in/out determines whether tyres point slightly towards/away from each other; toe creates scrubbing forces that accelerate tyre wear and affect straight-line tracking.
- How this fixes faults: setting toe to spec reduces scrubbing and feathering wear, stabilizes vehicle tracking, and corrects pull or steering off-centre when caused by toe error.

8) Adjust front camber/caster (if adjustable)
- What to do: on Getz the front is MacPherson strut — camber is usually set by strut mounting and may be non-adjustable without camber bolts or top-mount shims. If vehicle has eccentric cam bolts or adjustable top mounts, adjust camber and caster to spec. If not adjustable and out of spec, check for bent strut, control arm, or worn bushings and replace as necessary.
- Theory: camber controls vertical tilt of wheel; negative camber increases cornering grip but may increase inner tyre wear. Caster affects steering self-centering and high-speed stability.
- How this fixes faults: correcting camber restores proper tyre contact patch and even wear; correcting caster improves steering return and directional stability. Replacing bent or worn parts that cause camber/caster faults restores the designed geometry.

9) Rear alignment and thrust angle
- What to do: measure rear toe and thrust angle. On a Getz (torsion beam rear), rear camber is generally fixed; rear toe is often adjustable via eccentric bolts/trailing arm positions — adjust rear toe so that thrust angle aligns with vehicle centerline and rear toe spec.
- Theory: thrust angle is the angle the rear axle points relative to vehicle centerline. If thrust is off, the car will track crooked even if front toe is correct. Rear toe causes rear tyre scrubbing and affects stability.
- How this fixes faults: correcting rear toe/thrust aligns rear to front, eliminating crabbing and ensuring straight-line tracking. Tightening/ replacing rear bushings or realigning eccentric bolts removes rear-induced steering pull.

10) Re-check all parameters and re-torque
- What to do: re-measure front and rear toe, camber, caster and thrust; ensure values are within spec. Cycle steering lock-to-lock and re-measure toe to ensure no binding. Torque all adjusted fasteners to OEM values.
- Theory: suspension can shift slightly after adjustments or during steering motion; cycling finds binding or settling. Correct torque prevents future movement.
- How this fixes faults: verifies adjustments hold under movement and ensures fasteners won’t back out, preventing recurrence.

11) Test drive and final verification
- What to do: perform a short road test with varied speeds and a gentle lane changes. Check steering return, straight-line tracking, and any residual pull. Park, re-measure alignment to ensure no shift.
- Theory: dynamic forces and real-world conditions can reveal issues not evident statically (e.g., bushing deflection under load).
- How this fixes faults: confirms that repaired components and adjustments work under load; if not, it directs further repair (e.g., hidden bent component).

12) Document and advise
- What to do: provide pre- and post-alignment printouts, note replaced parts, and recommended checks (tyre rotation if wear present).
- Theory: record keeping helps diagnose recurring problems and demonstrates job completeness.
- How this fixes faults: enables proper follow-up and owner awareness; tyre rotation spreads wear left by prior misalignment.

Common symptoms and their root-cause fixes (concise)
- Excessive/uneven tyre wear (inner or outer): usually incorrect camber or persistent toe. Fix by setting toe/camber to spec; replace worn control-arm bushings/strut if camber cannot be set.
- Vehicle pulls left or right: usually unequal toe or rear thrust misalignment, or worn tie rods/ball joints. Fix by replacing worn parts, setting front toe and rear thrust angle.
- Steering wheel off-centre: asymmetric toe or rack position. Fix by setting toe symmetrically, centring steering wheel, and if necessary adjusting rack spline position or replacing inner tie rod.
- Wandering/poor returnability: often low caster or worn steering/suspension joints. Fix by restoring caster (if adjustable) or replacing worn joints/bushes and ensuring steering geometry restored.
- Vibration at speed: could be wheel bearing or damaged rim; correct by replacing bearing/repairing rim and rechecking alignment.

Notes specific to Hyundai Getz
- Front: MacPherson strut — toe is easily adjusted; camber/caster often limited in adjustability without special top mounts or shims. If camber/caster out of spec, check for bent strut or control arm or worn bushes.
- Rear: torsion beam — rear toe is usually adjustable via eccentric bolts; when rear toe/bushes worn, vehicle may “crab.”
- Always obtain OEM alignment specs and torque values from Hyundai service manual for exact targets.

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