Short overview and theory (why this repair is needed)
- Purpose: The gear shift linkage transfers the driver's hand movement at the cab shifter to the transmission’s selector mechanism so the correct gears engage. It converts the lever’s motion into precise rotation/linear movement at the transmission selector/shift forks.
- Why it fails: the linkage is a mechanical chain of joints, rods, bushings and seals exposed to vibration, road shock, dirt and moisture. Wear, corrosion, seized joints, bent rods or lost indexing create excessive free-play, mis‑alignment, missed gears, false neutrals, hard shifts and grinding.
- Analogy: imagine steering a bicycle with a loose headset and stretched brake cable — the handlebar moves but the wheel doesn’t follow precisely. That’s what worn shift linkage feels like: lever motion is not faithfully transmitted to the transmission.

Major components — descriptions (every component you will see)
- Cab shift lever (gearstick): the lever you move in the cab; often bolted to a base or floor bracket. It provides driver input and often has detents and springs.
- Shifter base / mount / floor box: bracket that secures the shifter to the cab floor and houses a pivot/return spring and sometimes a rubber gaiter.
- Interlock/selector detent assembly (on some models): prevents illegal gear selection; often part of the shift mechanism.
- Universal joint / swivel joint (or spherical joint): allows angular misalignment between cab lever and linkage rod. Can be greaseable or sealed.
- Shift tower / shift rod bracket: vertical bracket assembly linking cab lever to rods that pass through the cab floor or firewall.
- Shift rod(s) / selector rods / tie rods: steel rods that carry motion from cab to transmission. Can be tube-shaped with threaded ends for adjustment.
- Turnbuckle / adjuster coupling: a threaded adjuster in the rod chain used to change effective rod length for centering/adjustment.
- Rod ends / heim joints / spherical bearings / clevis: joints at the rod ends. Can be greaseable or polymer bush bushes with retaining pins.
- Clevis pin & split pin / cotter pin / circlip / snap ring: retainers that hold joints to lever arms and keep movement constrained.
- Pivot sleeves / bushings / polymer or bronze liners: provide bearing surface for pivot pins; wear items.
- Boots / gaiters / dust seals: rubber covers that keep dirt/water out of joints.
- Bellcrank / selector arm (transmission side): lever on transmission shift shaft that converts rod motion into rotation of the shift shaft.
- Shift shaft / selector shaft & internal fork linkage (inside gearbox): shaft that the external bellcrank attaches to; rotates to move internal selector forks and engage gears.
- Shift shaft seal / gland nut: seal where shaft exits box—if leaking, contaminants enter.
- Mounting brackets / clamps / chassis brackets / anti-vibration mounts: support linkage along frame.
- Grease nipples (zerk fittings): points for lubrication.

Tools, consumables and parts you’ll need
- Basic hand tools: metric sockets and spanners, adjustable spanner, screwdrivers, pliers.
- Punch / drift & hammer, pin extractor, snap ring pliers.
- Torque wrench for specified fastener torques (use workshop manual values).
- Bench vise and soft jaws (for pressing bushings).
- Caliper or tape measure and marker for measuring rod lengths and indexing.
- Penetrating oil, degreaser, rags.
- Replacement parts: bushings, rod ends, clevis pins, cotter pins, boots, grease seals, adjuster/turnbuckle(s), shackles. Get Hino genuine or OEM equivalents.
- Grease (lithium EP) and anti-seize/threadlocker as specified.
- Safety gear: eye protection, gloves, wheel chocks, jack stands.

Preliminary safety & preparation
- Park on level ground, chock wheels, place transmission in neutral, engage parking brake.
- Isolate battery if you will be working where it could short.
- For heavy trucks, use wheel chocks and secure vehicle on flat level supports; do not work under vehicle unsupported.
- Record shifter centered position: mark the cab lever and transmission selector position before disassembly. Use tape/marker and measure rod length between centers — this is essential for reassembly indexing.

Diagnosis / when to repair
Symptoms indicating linkage repair:
- Excessive free play at the cab lever (lever moves a long distance before gear change).
- Hard or grinding shifts or missed shifts and false neutrals.
- Transmission jumps out of gear or slips into neutral.
- Asymmetric or off-center neutral position (lever centered but transmission not neutral).
- Visible play or wobble at joints, torn gaiters, leaking seals, missing cotter pins.

Step-by-step repair procedure (beginner-friendly, detailed)
(Always consult the exact Hino 700 workshop manual for model-specific diagrams, part numbers, torque specs and safety steps.)

1) Mark, measure, document
- With trans in neutral and handbrake on, center the cab shifter. Mark the position of the lever relative to floor mount and measure length between rod end centers (or count thread turns on turnbuckle). Photograph from multiple angles.
- Locate the bellcrank/selector arm on the transmission and note its orientation/center position (mark on it too).

2) Inspect externally
- Examine all joints, boots, rods, clips. Look for torn boots, rust, grease leakage, play at joints (wobble), bent rods or deformed threads. If bushings look collapsed or joystick feels sloppy, they need replacing.

3) Remove affected linkage components
- Remove retaining split pins/circlips from clevis pins, extract clevis pins (use punch & hammer). Label parts or keep them in order.
- If rod has turnbuckle, back off locknuts and unthread adjuster to loosen rods for removal.
- For seized pins, soak with penetrating oil, tap gently and use heat if necessary (but avoid excessive heat near seals/paints).
- Keep the transmission side marked so you can re-index.

4) Disassembly of joints and bushings
- Press out worn bushings/sleeves using a vice and sockets sized to the bushing OD/ID or a hydraulic press. Do not damage the housing. Replace with new bushings (drive in square and straight).
- Replace any corroded clevis pins, pivot pins and all cotter/split pins with new items of correct grade and size.
- If replacing rod ends (heim joints), count threads and ensure correct handedness so you can reset adjustment.

5) Replace boots, seals, or shaft seals if leaking
- If shift shaft seal is leaking on the transmission, remove the bellcrank/arm and replace the seal/gland as per manual. A leaked seal lets dust and grit into the selector shaft which accelerates wear.

6) Reassemble linkage dry-run
- Reassemble rods, but do not fully tighten locknuts. Reconnect to bellcrank and cab lever using new clevis pins and cotter pins. Make sure boots are seated.
- Clean and lightly grease moving surfaces (unless they’re sealed and manufacturer specifies “no grease”).
- Adjust length/centering: center the cab lever and the transmission selector (matching marks). Adjust rod length or turnbuckle until the lever center and selector arm centre coincide. Tighten locknuts to hold adjustment.
- Typical adjustment technique: measure center-to-center distance or count full turns on adjuster from your pre-marked record. Align marks you made earlier.

7) Final torqueing & locking
- Torque all bolts/nuts to the Hino workshop manual specification. Fit threadlocker or anti-seize where specified. Replace any worn mounting hardware.
- Fit new cotter/split pins; bend to secure. Never reuse split pins.

8) Function test (engine off)
- With vehicle still stationary and engine off, have an assistant move the cab shifter through all gear positions slowly while you observe the transmission bellcrank and external linkage. Check:
- Smooth motion, no binding.
- Accurate indexing: gear positions correspond to lever position.
- No abnormal lateral play at joint pivots.
- Verify neutral alignment: lever centered equals selector centered.

9) Function test (engine on / idle)
- Start engine and depress clutch (if manual) — check shifting into each gear with engine idling to feel for smoothness. Do not rev Engine high during first test.
- Check that reverse engages without noise or crunching when clutch fully depressed.

10) Road test (controlled)
- Road test in safe area, move through gear ranges under load. Observe for false neutrals, missed shifts, or grinding. If problems persist, halt and reassess—may be internal transmission or clutch issues.

Common repairs and replacements
- Replace worn polymer bushings or bronze bushes in pivot brackets.
- Replace rod ends or turnbuckles if threads damaged or joints worn.
- Replace bellcrank/selector arm if mushroomed, bent or splined connection damaged.
- Replace shift shaft seal/gland if leaking.
- Replace entire linkage assembly if multiple components are beyond economical repair.

What can go wrong if not done correctly
- Incorrect centering/indexing → false neutrals and inability to select certain gears.
- Over-tightened or under-tightened bolts → binding or parts coming loose.
- Incorrect thread engagement on turnbuckle → loss of adjustment, unscrewing in service.
- Re-used old split pins/cotter pins → failure of retainer leading to linkage separation.
- Cross-threading or damaging splines on selector arm → costly transmission side repair.
- Poor grease/seal procedures → premature wear and re-failure.

Troubleshooting tips (specific symptoms → likely causes)
- Hard shift or grinding: misadjustment (out-of-sync), worn rod ends, or clutch/gearbox internal wear.
- False neutral: excessive play in rod ends / worn bushings, or selector fork wear inside transmission.
- Shifter feels sloppy but transmission shifts fine: worn cab lever mounting bushings or floor box.
- Intermittent good/bad shifting: corroded/seizing joints, collapsed gaiter letting dirt in.
- Linkage binds in one direction: bent rod, interference with chassis or mounting, or seized pivot.

Maintenance & preventative measures
- Regular lubrication at grease nipples where present (service interval per manual).
- Inspect boots and seals at regular service intervals and replace at first sign of damage.
- Recheck adjustment after any transmission or cab shifter removal.
- Keep turnbuckle threads clean and lightly greased with anti-seize to avoid corrosion seizing.

Final notes and cautions
- Always follow Hino 700 Series workshop manual for torque specs, parts diagrams and model-specific notes.
- If the transmission selector shaft or internal forks are damaged, linkage repair alone will not fix shifting — internal gearbox repair will be required.
- Safety first: don’t work under unsupported vehicles. Use correct lifting and support equipment.

This is a practical, methodical approach a beginner mechanic can follow. Stick to the marking/measurement step — accurate indexing is the most common cause of rework.
rteeqp73

Hino 700 Series 2848 Truck Review - 1000km Test Drive We've teamed up with Jon Thomson from Transport & Trucking Australia Magazine for another episode of "Truck and Bus News".

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