- Safety first (must-read)
- Wear safety glasses, gloves, steel-toe boots, and hearing protection when using power tools.
- Work on a flat, level surface with good lighting and ventilation.
- Use wheel chocks on the rear wheels and never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack.
- For a heavy truck (Hino 700 Series) use a commercial vehicle hoist or heavy-duty axle stands rated for the load — do not rely on a passenger-car jack.
- Have a fire extinguisher and first-aid kit handy.

- Important preface about model variation and risk
- Hino 700 Series front suspension designs (strut, shock, coil or leaf, steering knuckle arrangement) vary by year and spec; obtain the Hino 700 factory workshop manual for exact diagrams, bolt torques, and torque sequences before starting.
- If you are a beginner and the job requires compressing coil springs or doing welding/pressing, strongly consider replacing the entire strut assembly pre-assembled by a parts supplier or having a trained technician do the job — compressed springs are hazardous.

- Tools you should have (each tool described and how to use it)
- Commercial vehicle hoist or heavy-duty two-post/4-post lift
- Description: Lift rated for gross vehicle weight of the truck; allows safe raising of the vehicle to working height.
- How to use: Follow lift manufacturer instructions and the truck lifting points in the Hino manual. Raise slowly, verify locks engage, visually confirm stability.
- Why needed: Provides safe, stable access under/front of truck; avoids unsafe jacking.
- Heavy-duty axle stands / jack stands rated for the truck
- Description: Large-capacity stands designed for heavy trucks; used as secondary support if not using a full hoist.
- How to use: Position under rated support points (axle or chassis), lower vehicle onto stands, ensure stands sit square and stable.
- Why needed: Backup safety; never rely solely on hydraulic jacks.
- Hydraulic bottle jack or heavy-duty floor jack (sized for truck)
- Description: High-capacity jack to raise axle or wheel area.
- How to use: Place under solid jacking point, pump handle to lift, do not use as only support.
- Why needed: To lift axle/wheel for wheel removal and to relieve suspension loads.
- Torque wrench (capable of truck-level torques)
- Description: Click-type or beam torque wrench with appropriate range (check manual for values).
- How to use: Set the correct torque value and tighten until it clicks; always use a calibrated wrench.
- Why needed: Correct torque is critical for safety and component life.
- Impact wrench (air or electric) and breaker bar
- Description: High-torque wrench for removing stuck nuts/bolts; breaker bar for frozen fasteners.
- How to use: Use impact to remove lug and suspension nuts quickly; breaker bar for controlled high torque. Use penetrating oil first on rusted bolts.
- Why needed: Truck fasteners are high-torque and often seized by corrosion.
- Socket set (deep and shallow) in metric sizes, incl. large sizes used on trucks
- Description: Heavy-duty sockets 10–36 mm (and larger as required), impact-rated where used with the impact wrench.
- How to use: Select correct socket for bolt head, avoid rounding heads; use breaker bar if needed.
- Why needed: Necessary to remove wheel and suspension bolts.
- Wrenches (open-end/box) heavy-duty metric set
- Description: Combination wrenches for holding nuts while turning bolts with a socket.
- How to use: Match to bolt/nut size, use box end to reduce slippage.
- Screwdrivers, pry bars, large pry iron
- Description: For prying off dust shields, aligning parts, or removing clips.
- How to use: Use leverage carefully to avoid bending parts; use a block of wood to protect surfaces.
- Hammer and dead-blow hammer
- Description: For persuading seized parts or knocking components free.
- How to use: Use a dead-blow to avoid damage; use penetrating oil first.
- Penetrating oil (e.g., PB Blaster) and wire brush
- Description: Loosens rusted nuts and cleans threads.
- How to use: Spray, let soak, brush off corrosion, then attempt removal.
- Spring compressor (if vehicle uses coil springs and you will disassemble the strut)
- Description: Heavy-duty, truck-rated spring compressor designed to safely compress coil springs.
- How to use: Read tool manual; compress evenly on opposite sides, keep clear of spring path, use only rated compressors.
- Why needed: To safely remove the top strut nut while the spring is under load. If you lack this, do not remove a coil-over strut — instead replace the entire pre-assembled strut.
- Strut / shock absorber compressor press or hydraulic press (for some top-mount bearings)
- Description: Used to press bearings or mounts off/on strut shaft.
- How to use: Use with appropriate adapters and follow safety procedure.
- Why needed: Some truck strut mounts use pressed-in bearings or bushes.
- Pullers / bearing puller set and slide hammer
- Description: For removing seized bearings or pressed components.
- How to use: Apply evenly around part; pull straight to avoid damage.
- Torque angle gauge or torque multiplier (for very high-torque nuts)
- Description: For final torqueing of large nuts beyond standard wrench capacity.
- How to use: Follow manual; use multiplier or torque wrench in correct range.
- Electrical multimeter (if working near ABS sensors)
- Description: For checking ABS sensor continuity if unplugged/damaged.
- How to use: Test sensor resistance per service manual.
- Hammer drive punches, drift, alignment tool
- Description: For aligning bolt holes during reassembly.
- How to use: Gently tap into place and pull out after bolts are started.
- Clean rags, degreaser, anti-seize compound, thread-lock compound (e.g., Loctite), grease
- Description: Cleaning and prep materials.
- How to use: Clean mating surfaces; apply anti-seize to threads that require it and thread-lock where specified.
- Replacement parts & consumables (see parts list below)
- Description: New replacement strut mount, nuts/bolts, dust boot, bump stop, possibly entire strut assembly.
- How to use: Install per manual; replace all worn items rather than reusing compromised parts.

- Parts likely required and why (what to replace and reasons)
- Strut mount (top mount / bearing)
- Why replace: Worn top mounts cause noise, poor steering feel, clunking, and uneven tire wear; bearings can seize.
- Replacement: OEM Hino or quality aftermarket top mount bearing kit specific to Hino 700 model/year.
- Complete strut assembly (recommended for beginners)
- Why replace: Safer option: buy pre-assembled strut + mount + spring to avoid spring compressor work and ensure correct installation.
- Replacement: Matched assembly rated for Hino 700 (shock absorber, spring, mount, boot, bump stop).
- Strut/shock absorber
- Why replace: If leaking, worn, or poor damping; often replaced with mount at same time.
- Coil spring (if cracked or sagged)
- Why replace: Springs weaken with age and can break; replaced when corroded or damaged.
- Dust boot and bump stop
- Why replace: Protects the strut shaft; missing/damaged boots allow dirt to accelerate strut wear.
- Top nuts, bolts, washers, locking plates
- Why replace: Suspension hardware is torque-critical; reuse only if in perfect condition — often replaced as consumables.
- Sway bar links or bushings (if worn)
- Why replace: These are often disturbed during strut removal and commonly worn.
- ABS sensor clips/brace or brake line brackets
- Why replace: If damaged during disassembly or corroded.

- General step-by-step procedure (high-level, for a beginner; follow the workshop manual exactly)
- Prepare vehicle
- Chock rear wheels, put vehicle in park, set parking brake.
- Lift vehicle on a commercial hoist or raise axle area with heavy-duty jack and support with rated stands at the manufacturer’s points.
- Remove front wheel(s) to gain access.
- Inspect and photograph
- Take photos of the assembly and routing of brake lines, ABS wires, and brackets for reassembly reference.
- Inspect mount, dust boots, spring, and strut for leaks, rust, play, or broken components to confirm which parts need replacement.
- Relieve suspension load safely
- Use jack to support axle or control arm so that lower strut/shock lower bolts can be removed without the spring violently decompressing.
- If strut is coil-over type and you plan to disassemble, use a truck-rated spring compressor on the spring; if not available, replace the whole pre-assembled strut.
- Disconnect peripheral items
- Unclip brake hoses and ABS wires from the strut or knuckle; support hoses to avoid strain.
- Remove sway bar link(s) if they attach to the strut/knuckle.
- Remove any sensor brackets or dust shields in the way.
- Remove lower and upper strut bolts
- Remove the lower mounting bolts/nuts at the knuckle or axle. Use impact or breaker bar as needed.
- Remove the top mount nuts inside the engine bay or under the cab crown (location varies). Hold the strut shaft steady when removing top nut to avoid spinning the piston — use appropriate tool.
- Remove the strut assembly
- Carefully remove the assembly from the vehicle. Keep it vertical and controlled.
- If you have a pre-assembled replacement, skip internal disassembly; install the new assembly as-is.
- If disassembling the strut to replace mount (only if you have a proper spring compressor and experience)
- Compress the coil spring evenly per spring compressor instructions.
- Remove the top nut and slowly decompress the spring enough to remove the old mount, bearing, boot, and bump stop.
- Fit the new mount/bearing and reassemble in reverse order, ensuring the bearing orientation is correct and the spring seating is proper.
- Torque the top nut to the exact value specified in the workshop manual.
- Install new or rebuilt strut assembly
- Slide the strut assembly into place, align top mount studs, start top nuts by hand, and install lower bolts loosely.
- With the vehicle at ride height (or supported to reproduce proper suspension geometry if required), torque lower and upper fasteners to the manufacturer’s specified values in the manual.
- Reattach sway bar links, brake lines, ABS sensors, and brackets; replace any clip/fastener that is damaged.
- If any bushings were disturbed, ensure they are seated correctly.
- Final safety and checks
- Re-torque all fasteners after lowering to the ground and after a short test drive (many manufacturers recommend re-torquing after 50–100 km).
- Check wheel lug nuts torque per wheel specification.
- Inspect for leaks, unusual noises, or misalignment.
- If steering feel or toe/caster is likely affected, get a professional wheel alignment immediately.

- How to use the key tools safely (brief operational tips)
- Torque wrench
- Always use within its calibrated range; set the target torque, tighten until click, then stop. Use extension bars and adapters only where torque reading is not affected (use calibration tables if needed).
- Impact wrench
- Use short bursts and a firm grip. Finish final torque with a torque wrench — do not rely on an impact for final accurate torque.
- Spring compressor
- Install symmetrically on opposite sides of the spring and compress evenly. Stay clear of the spring path; never put your body over a compressed spring. Use rated weights and inspect the compressor for damage before use.
- Breaker bar
- Use steady, controlled force; keep body stance stable. If a bolt doesn’t budge, apply penetrating oil, allow soak time, and try again.
- Pry bars and hammers
- Use carefully to avoid bending knuckles or strut housings. Protect surfaces with wood blocks as needed.

- When to replace the entire strut assembly instead of just the mount (recommendation for beginners)
- Replace the complete pre-assembled strut if:
- You do not have a truck-rated spring compressor or press.
- The shock absorber is leaking or worn.
- The spring or mount shows significant corrosion or damage.
- You want to minimize risk and complexity — it is often only marginally more expensive and much safer.
- Benefits: Safer installation, reduced time, guaranteed fit and pre-load, no dangerous spring work.

- Post-replacement requirements
- Wheel alignment
- Required if suspension geometry was disturbed (highly likely). Get a professional 4-wheel alignment.
- Re-torque checks
- Re-check critical fasteners after initial road test distance recommended in manual.
- Test drive
- Do a careful test drive at low speed to confirm no noises, steering pull, or abnormal behavior.

- Common pitfalls and how to avoid them
- Trying to work under the vehicle without proper stands or lift — always use rated supports.
- Removing a coil spring without a compressor — dangerous; either use the correct tool or buy a pre-assembled unit.
- Reusing corroded or stretched mounting bolts — replace hardware with new specified-grade bolts.
- Not following torque specs — always use the workshop manual values.

- Final note (must follow the manual)
- Follow the Hino 700 Series factory workshop manual for exact steps, diagrams, bolt torque values, and safety lift points. If you lack the correct tools or have any doubt, get professional help — this work affects steering and vehicle safety.
rteeqp73

HINO 700 E13C LOW POWER

The all-new Hino 700 Series Long edition video Safer, cleaner and Connected. The all-new 700 Series rewrites the rules in safety, emissions, performance and comfort. Find out ...

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