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Hino 700 Series Workshop Manual download

Tools & consumables
- Metric socket set (10–19 mm), ratchet + extensions
- Torque wrench (0–100 Nm)
- Flat & Phillips screwdrivers
- Hose clamp pliers / adjustable pliers
- Long pick / small screwdriver for hose clips
- Clean rags and a soft brush
- Compressed air (regulated, max 30 psi) with blow gun and safety nozzle
- Container for draining water/oil from separator
- Gloves, safety glasses, dust mask
- Replacement parts: correct Hino 700 air filter element(s) (primary and any secondary/secondary pleated/cartridge), housing seal / O‑ring(s) if fitted, intake hose clamps if corroded, pre‑cleaner elements or drain valve if damaged
- Touch‑up labels/tape and marker (optional for tagging hoses)

Safety & prep
1. Park on level ground, set parking brake, chock wheels. Ensure engine is OFF and cooled.
2. Isolate battery if you will be disconnecting electrical sensors or working under the cab.
3. Wear eye protection and a dust mask — removing the filter releases a lot of dust.
4. Work from clean area. Prevent dirt from entering the intake snorkel: cover inlet with clean rag when housing is open.

Step‑by‑step: remove, inspect, replace and refit air filter housing/element
1. Access
- Open cab/bonnet per Hino procedure and locate the air cleaner assembly (usually a round/cylindrical housing with inlet snorkel on Hino 700).
- Photograph or mark hose positions if multiple hoses/sensors are attached.

2. Drain pre‑separator / water bowl (if fitted)
- Place container underneath.
- Open drain plug and let water/condensate out. Close plug. Inspect for oil contamination (indicative of turbo blowby or oil carryover).

3. Disconnect sensors and hoses
- Remove any pressure/differential sensor hoses and electrical connectors. Use picks to release clips, tag hoses for correct reassembly.
- Loosen hose clamps on inlet and outlet ducts with screwdriver or pliers and slide hoses off.

4. Remove housing cover / clamp
- Most Hino 700 housings use wing nuts or clamp bolts. Loosen clamp(s) and separate cover from lower bowl.
- Support the cover as you remove it — it may be heavy.

5. Remove filter element(s)
- Lift the element straight out. Do not tilt or cock it; avoid hitting the element against the housing rim.
- If there’s an inner/outer element, remove both and inspect each separately.

6. Inspect housing and components
- Inspect housing, sealing flange, and cover for cracks, deformation, or corrosion. Check the condition of the rubber seal or O‑ring on the cover; replace if hardened/damaged.
- Check the ducting for tears, clogs or loose clamps. Inspect the snorkel for water or large debris.

7. Clean housing (if reusing)
- For reusable metal/plastic housings, wipe out loose dust with a rag and soft brush.
- If you must use compressed air, blow gently from the clean side toward the dirty side at low pressure (<30 psi). Never blast the paper element with compressed air.
- Do not use solvents inside the housing that could damage seals.

8. Replace filter(s)
- Fit the new element(s) in the correct orientation — arrow/label “airflow” toward the engine/intake side. Ensure the element seats flat on the sealing surface.
- Replace any secondary element per manual.

9. Reassemble cover & clamps
- Refit the cover, ensuring the rubber seal is correctly seated and not pinched.
- Tighten clamp(s) hand‑tight and then torque bolts/nuts to manufacturer spec. If you don’t have the spec, snug clamps then check for even sealing; typical clamp torque for cover clamps is low (2–8 Nm) and housing mounting bolts are higher (20–60 Nm) — use published Hino values when available.

10. Reconnect hoses & sensors
- Reattach intake hoses, secure clamps, reconnect differential pressure hoses and electrical connectors. Ensure drain valve is closed.
- Remove any inlet cover/plug used to protect the intake.

11. Start engine & check
- Start engine, listen for intake leaks (whistling), watch for diagnostic warnings. Recheck clamps after a brief run.

Tool usage details & tips
- Torque wrench: use to accurately tighten mounting bolts and clamp bolts to avoid over‑ or under‑tightening. Set to specified Nm, apply smooth torque until it clicks.
- Socket & ratchet: use extensions to reach recessed bolts; use correct socket size to avoid rounding heads.
- Hose clamp pliers: compress and slide off spring clamps without damaging ducting.
- Compressed air: limit pressure and use a wide‑nozzle/safety tip. Never point the nozzle toward your face.

Common pitfalls & how to avoid them
- Allowing debris into intake: always cover the inlet when housing is open.
- Reusing a damaged seal: always inspect and replace O‑rings/seals; a compromised seal causes unfiltered air ingestion.
- Incorrect filter orientation: fit with airflow arrow correct; wrong orientation bypasses filtration.
- Over‑tightening clamps/bolts: can crack housing or deform flange; use torque wrench.
- Cleaning paper filters with compressed air: don’t — they’re disposable. Use only manufacturer‑approved serviceable filters if designed for cleaning.
- Forgetting to drain pre‑separator: water left in bowl will be drawn into intake and turbo.
- Not replacing both primary and secondary elements when required: if your system has both, replace per interval to maintain protection.
- Cross‑threading bolts: start threads by hand before using tools.

Replacement parts commonly required
- Air filter element(s) (primary and secondary as applicable)
- Housing cover seal / O‑ring
- Drain valve (if leaking)
- Hose clamps or intake ducting if cracked
- Differential pressure sensor hose if brittle

Final checks
- Verify no diagnostic trouble codes and intake pressure sensor readings normal.
- Re‑inspect clamps and seals after 50–100 km.
- Record service in maintenance log and note filter part numbers and date.

End.
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