1) Scope and precautions
- Confirm transmission type (manual gearbox vs automatic/AMT/Allison) and get the Hino 700 workshop manual page for that model — for drain/fill locations, capacity, fluid spec and torque values. Use the exact OEM fluid spec.
- Safety: park on level surface, chock wheels, shut engine, isolate electrical, wear PPE, support vehicle with rated stands if raised.
Theory / why: correct fluid, plugs and torque specs prevent cross-contamination, wrong level or wrong fluid changes hydraulic/friction properties and can worsen faults. Proper safety prevents injury and vehicle damage.

2) Gather tools and consumables
- Tools: wrenches, torque wrench, large drain pan, funnel, rags, creeper, transmission jack if removing pan, filter replacement kit (if automatic), new pan gasket or crush washers, magnets/inspection tray, fluid pump.
- Consumables: OEM ATF / gear oil, filter and gasket, cleaning solvent, new sealing washers.
Theory: using correct filter and seals prevents leaks and contamination; a torque wrench ensures correct clamp load — over/under torque can cause leaks or damage.

3) Warm the transmission
- Run engine until transmission reaches normal operating temperature (short drive), then shut off.
- For manual transmissions a short drive is enough; for automatics run through gears to circulate fluid.
Theory: warm fluid flows and drains better and carries suspended contaminants. Level checking procedures reference fluid at operating temperature; viscosity differences otherwise give false levels.

4) Position drain pan and remove plugs
- Manual gearbox: remove fill/check plug first (side) to allow air in; then remove drain plug on bottom and let fluid run out.
- Automatic (pan-type): loosen pan bolts and carefully lower pan — catch fluid and remove pan; remove filter; if transmission has a separate drain plug use it per manual.
Theory: opening fill/check first prevents vacuum that slows draining. Removing pan and filter (on automatics) exposes trapped contaminants and permits full replacement of filter media and gasket surfaces. This fixes faults caused by contaminated or degraded fluid and blocked filters (hard shifting, slipping, noise).

5) Inspect drained fluid and magnets
- Observe color (reddish for ATF, dark/burnt = heat/oxidation), smell (burnt = overheated/clutch wear), presence and type of particles.
- Clean magnets and inspect for metal filings or larger flakes. Collect sample for analysis if heavy contamination.
Theory: metal particles indicate internal wear (bearings, synchronizers, clutch packs). Removing contaminated fluid and inspecting provides diagnostic information and prevents further abrasive wear.

6) Clean, replace filter/gasket/seal
- Automatic: replace filter and pan gasket. Clean pan, magnets and mating surfaces. Replace pan bolts/studs if needed.
- Manual: if equipped with internal magnetic plug or magnet, clean and replace crush washer on drain plug or replace drain plug sealing washer.
Theory: filters remove particulates and clutch debris; a clean filter restores hydraulic flow and pressure, improving shift quality. New gaskets/seals stop leaks that cause low fluid and overheating.

7) Reinstall pan/drain plug and torque to spec
- Install drain plug with new washer and torque to OEM specification. Install pan with new gasket and torque bolts in recommended sequence.
Theory: correct torque and gasket seal prevent leaks and ensure correct clamping to avoid distortion that causes leaks or fluid starvation.

8) Refill to correct level with OEM fluid
- Fill through fill/check plug, dipstick or dedicated fill port until the level at operating temp matches workshop manual specification. Use clean funnel/pump.
- For automatics: fill to the “cold” or “hot” mark depending on the manual’s procedure; many heavy automatics require filling with engine running and selector positions cycled to bleed air.
Theory: correct level is critical. Low level -> cavitation, loss of lubrication, overheating, poor hydraulic pressure, slipping. Overfill -> aeration, foaming, pressure issues and overheating. Using the OEM fluid ensures correct friction characteristics, additive package and viscosity for synchronizers/clutch packs.

9) Bleed air and circulate
- With engine running (if required) and selector in specified positions, cycle through gears to pump fluid through the system. Re-check level after cycling and again after a short road test as the fluid distributes.
Theory: trapped air causes soft/shallow shifts and poor hydraulic control. Circulating and cycling ensures fluid reaches torque converter, cooler lines and valve body, restoring hydraulic pressure and consistent shift behavior.

10) Test drive and re-check
- Road test under load and varied shifts, monitor for abnormal noises, slipping or leaks. Recheck level and for leaks after the test and after a short cooldown.
Theory: the test confirms that refreshed fluid restored lubrication, cooling, and correct hydraulic operation. Re-check ensures no leaks developed and that the system bled correctly.

11) Interpret outcomes and how the repair fixes faults
- What a fluid change fixes:
- Burnt/dark/oxidized fluid → restores lubrication, reduces varnish and deposits, lowers operating temperature, restores additive function that protects bearings and gears.
- Contaminated fluid / clogged filter → restores hydraulic flow and pressure, fixes harsh or delayed shifts and prevents clutch slippage in automatics.
- Low fluid level or leaks → restores proper pressure and lubrication, prevents cavitation and overheating that accelerate wear.
- Accumulated metal particles → removal reduces abrasive wear; magnet inspection helps identify failing components early.
- What it does not fix:
- Mechanical damage already present (severe bearing/gear tooth failure, internal clutch pack wear beyond serviceable limits) — fluid change slows further damage and may reveal the extent of failure but won’t rebuild damaged parts.

12) Record and follow-up
- Record fluid type, quantity, drain date, particle findings. Schedule next interval per Hino manual. If metal particle levels are high, plan inspection/repair of internal components.
Theory: maintenance history and particle trend monitoring detect progressive failures early and guide timely repairs.

Quick troubleshooting notes (theory linked to symptoms)
- Soft/slow shifts after a long interval → likely degraded ATF (viscosity/ friction loss) or low level: fluid change and level correction restores friction properties and pressure.
- Grinding or gear noise in manual → could be low gear oil, worn synchronizers or bearings. Fluid change restores lubrication but significant metal in drain indicates internal wear requiring repair.
- Overheating or burnt smell → fluid oxidation and loss of additives; change fluid and inspect cooler lines; continued overheating means cooling or internal slipping problem.

End.
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