- Safety first (read once, follow always)
- Wear safety glasses, gloves, and closed-toe shoes.
- Work on a level surface with parking brake on, wheels chocked. If lifting, use rated jack and jack stands; never rely on a jack alone.
- Disconnect battery negative terminal if you will be working near electrical components or to prevent fan/engine cranking while you work.
- Have a fire extinguisher nearby and keep loose clothing/jewellery away from moving parts.
- Consult the Hino 700 workshop manual for model-specific cautions, routing diagrams, torque specs, and manufacturer procedures.

- Tools you should have (basic tools described and how to use them)
- Socket set (metric): ratchet handle, 3/8" and 1/2" drive sockets in common sizes (10–24 mm typically).
- Use to remove pulleys, belt covers, accessory bolts and tensioner fasteners. Match socket size to bolt head and pull straight—don't force a wrong size socket.
- Ratchet and extensions:
- Ratchet turns sockets quickly; extensions help reach recessed bolts. Use steady, controlled force; avoid jerking.
- Breaker bar (long-handled non-ratcheting bar):
- Provides extra leverage for stuck bolts. Pull steadily; avoid sudden bangs. Helpful to release a seized tensioner or stubborn pulley bolt.
- Torque wrench (click-type, appropriate range):
- Tighten critical bolts to specified torque. Set to the required value, tighten until it clicks, then stop. Calibrate or verify before use.
- Wrenches (combination/open-end/box-end, metric):
- For bolts where a socket won’t fit. Use the correct size to avoid rounding heads; pull toward you where possible.
- Screwdrivers (flat and Phillips):
- Remove clamps, covers, trim. Use the correct head size to avoid stripping.
- Pliers (needle-nose, slip-joint) and adjustable pliers:
- Remove clips, hold small parts, and manipulate hose clamps. Use correct jaw and grip strength; avoid using pliers as a wrench on nuts always.
- Pry bar or large flat-blade screwdriver:
- Carefully used to lever off covers or help position the belt. Use small incremental pressure; do not pry on bearing housings.
- Belt tension gauge (if available) or a long pry bar and ruler/method to measure deflection:
- Measures belt tension or deflection per spec. If you don’t have a gauge, follow the manual’s deflection method (force vs deflection). Important for correct belt life.
- Flashlight or work light:
- Illuminates tight spaces so you can see pulleys and routing.
- Magnetic tray or small containers:
- Keep fasteners organized and prevent loss.
- Clean rags and penetrating oil (e.g., PB Blaster):
- Clean components and help loosen rusted bolts. Apply penetrating oil and allow time to soak before attempting removal.
- Gloves and eye protection:
- Protect hands and eyes from oil, dirt, and sharp edges.

- Extra or recommended tools (why they help)
- Hydraulic or spring-loaded belt tensioner tool (specific for some tensioners): makes releasing a tensioner safe and easy; reduces risk of slippage and finger injury.
- Impact wrench (air or electric) for stubborn bolts: speeds removal of tight pulley bolts; use with care to avoid over-torquing on reassembly—always finish with torque wrench to spec.
- Engine support bar or hoist (if accessories must be moved or engine lifted for access): some installations require moving heavy components for access.
- Service manual / belt routing diagram (paper or digital): essential for correct routing and torque/tension specs.
- Replacement fasteners, washers, or thread locker (if OEM specs call for it): replace damaged or corroded bolts and use thread locker if specified.

- Parts that may need replacement (why and what to buy)
- Drive belt(s) (serpentine or V-belt): always replace if cracked, glazed, frayed, missing ribs, or oil-soaked. Buy OEM or OEM-equivalent belt specific to Hino 700 engine code and accessory layout. Confirm part number from workshop manual or parts supplier.
- Belt tensioner (spring-loaded or hydraulic): replace if it’s noisy, exhibits play, leaks (hydraulic type), or does not maintain proper tension. A failing tensioner shortens belt life and can cause accessories to slip.
- Idler pulley(s): replace if bearing is noisy, has play, or the pulley surface is worn. Bearings can fail causing belt tracking issues or throw the belt.
- Accessory pulleys (rarely): replace if damaged or bearings seized (alternator, AC compressor, power steering pump pulleys).
- Fasteners and mounting hardware: replace stripped or heavily corroded bolts. Use correct grade and length as per manual.
- Belt cover/guides: replace if cracked or missing and interfering with belt routing.

- Preparation and inspection before starting
- Locate the belt routing diagram (sticker under hood or workshop manual). Take photos of current routing if accessible.
- Inspect belt condition and accessories for signs of failure (noise, oil leaks, wobble).
- Gather required replacement belt(s) and any suspected pulleys/tensioner you’ll change.
- Ensure vehicle is secure, battery negative disconnected, engine cool.

- Removal steps (general safe procedure for a beginner)
- Expose the belt: remove splash shields, hose clips, or covers obstructing access using screwdrivers and sockets. Keep fasteners organized.
- Identify and locate the tensioner: often a spring-loaded pulley with a square hole or hex boss for applying force.
- Relieve belt tension: using the correct-sized wrench, breaker bar, or tensioner tool, rotate the tensioner to relieve tension and slide the belt off one accessible pulley (usually the easiest accessory like the alternator or idler). Hold tensioner back and do not let it snap back uncontrolled.
- Remove belt from all pulleys and take it out of the engine bay.
- Inspect pulleys and tensioner: spin idler and accessory pulleys by hand to feel for roughness or play. If you hear grinding or feel excessive movement, plan to replace that pulley/tensioner.
- Remove tensioner or pulleys if replacing: remove mounting bolts using appropriate sockets/wrenches and breaker bar if needed. Use penetrating oil for seized bolts and a steady pulling force.

- Installation steps (replacing belt and components)
- Install new pulleys/tensioner: clean mounting surfaces, fit new pulleys/tensioner, and tighten bolts by hand first. Final-tighten to torque spec from the Hino workshop manual using a torque wrench.
- Route new belt: follow routing diagram or photos. Ensure belt sits correctly in pulley grooves and is fully seated on ribbed pulleys.
- Re-tension belt: rotate the tensioner and slip belt over the last pulley, then slowly release the tensioner so it applies tension. If using a manual adjustment tensioner, tighten adjustment bolt to the specified tension.
- Measure tension: use a belt tension gauge or the manual’s deflection method. Adjust until within specified range.
- Double-check routing and alignment: all ribs should be correctly aligned, no twisting or mis-seating.
- Reinstall covers and any removed components. Reconnect battery negative terminal.

- Final checks and test
- Start engine and observe belt at idle: watch for wobble, noise, or misalignment. Listen for squeal or chirp.
- Re-check tension after a short run-in (some belts require re-check after 500–1,000 km). Tighten/re-adjust if necessary.
- Inspect for fluid leaks (oil or coolant) that can contaminate and damage belts; repair leaks if present.

- Common beginner mistakes to avoid
- Not disconnecting battery when working near moving parts or electrical accessories.
- Letting a spring tensioner snap back uncontrolled—use a tool or steady hand to release slowly.
- Reusing a damaged belt or ignoring worn tensioner/idler pulleys—these will shorten new belt life.
- Not using a torque wrench on pulley/tensioner bolts—under- or over-tightening can cause failure or stripped threads.
- Incorrect belt routing—always verify routing diagram before starting engine.

- Troubleshooting after replacement
- Squeal at start-up: check tension, alignment, and belt condition (oil contamination).
- Belt jumps off: inspect pulleys for misalignment or worn grooves and verify routing.
- Excessive vibration or noise: check bearings in idler/tensioner and accessory pulleys.

- Disposal and notes
- Dispose of old belts and oily rags according to local regulations.
- If you’re uncertain at any point, stop and refer to the Hino 700 workshop manual or professional technician. Exact torque values, belt part numbers, and tension specs vary by engine and model year—use the manual or parts catalog for the correct items.

- Quick parts checklist to bring to parts supplier (give them vehicle details to confirm)
- Replacement drive belt(s) by engine/serial number or VIN
- Tensioner assembly (if worn)
- Idler pulley(s) (if bearings are worn)
- Any bolts or washers that are damaged or specified as single-use in manual

No extra questions.
rteeqp73

Hino 700 Series FS 2848 tipper and dog 2022 Review | trucksales How does Hino's overhauled heavy platform fare in a tipper-and-dog format? Hino left virtually no stone unturned when it updated ...

Hino 700 Series 2848 Truck Review - 1000km Test Drive We've teamed up with Jon Thomson from Transport & Trucking Australia Magazine for another episode of "Truck and Bus News".

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