What the camshaft position sensor (CMP) is, why you’d replace it, how it works, and how to remove/fit and test it on a Hino 700-series truck — explained step‑by‑step for a beginner mechanic, with clear component descriptions and practical tips.

Summary first (one line)
- The CMP tells the engine computer where the camshaft is so the ECU can time fuel injection and valve/ignition events. If it fails you get trouble starting, poor running, misfires, limp mode or fault codes. Replacing it is a routine sensor job if you follow safety, diagnostics and clean installation.

1) Components (every piece you’ll meet)
- Camshaft position sensor (CMP): the sensor body with sensing face (magnetic or Hall element), sometimes with an O‑ring/seal, and one or two bolts that hold it to the cylinder head or cam cover.
- Electrical connector/pigtail: the plastic plug on the sensor that mates to the truck wiring harness; usually 2 or 3 pins.
- Wiring harness (CMP circuit): wires from the sensor to the ECU. For a 3‑wire Hall sensor: power (usually +5V), ground, and signal. For a 2‑wire variable reluctor (VR) sensor: two wires carrying an AC signal.
- Mounting boss/seat on the cylinder head or cam cover: where the sensor locates against a reluctor or cam lobe.
- Reluctor/target (on camshaft or cam sprocket): the piece on the cam that passes the sensor and produces the signal (a metal tooth, slot, magnet or machined feature).
- ECU/engine control module: reads the CMP signal and uses it with crank sensor info to control injection timing and other functions.
- Fasteners and sealing parts: mounting bolt(s), sometimes a locating dowel, and an O‑ring or rubber seal.
- Optional brackets/clips: retain the harness and protect the wiring from heat/vibration.

Analogy: think of the CMP as a toothbrush beside a rotating candy cane (the cam target). Every time a stripe passes the toothbrush the sensor “counts” it and tells the brain (ECU) where the candy cane is.

2) Theory — how the system works and why it matters
- Purpose: The ECU needs to know cam position relative to crankshaft to manage injection timing (diesel) or ignition sequence (gasoline), to determine cylinder 1 TDC vs. TDC exhaust/intake (cam gives phase information). For sequential injection or variable cam timing, the ECU uses sync from both cam and crank sensors.
- Sensor operation types:
- Hall-effect (3‑wire): has an internal magnetic element; powered by 5V from ECU, produces a digital square wave (0–~5V) as the target passes. Good at low speed, common in modern systems.
- Variable reluctor / inductive (2‑wire): generates an AC sine/alternating voltage as a ferrous target passes; amplitude increases with RPM. Older style and some heavy-duty applications.
- ECU logic: the crank sensor gives engine speed and basic position; the cam sensor identifies which stroke each cylinder is on so the ECU knows which cylinder to inject and when. If cam sensor data is missing or out of expected timing, the ECU may revert to a safe mode, delay injection, shut down some functions, or set trouble codes.
- Why repair is needed: CMP failure = incorrect or missing cam reference → poor running, long crank, no-start, misfires, fuel timing errors, limp mode, and stored fault codes (e.g., P0340/P0341 in generic OBD terms). Replacing the sensor fixes the source if it’s faulty or wiring/connectors are bad.

3) Symptoms that point to CMP problems
- No-start or hard start (cranks but won’t fire).
- Engine runs rough, misfires, poor power, stalling at idle.
- Decreased fuel economy.
- Check engine light with a cam-related code.
- Intermittent faults that change with vibration/temperature.
- Sensor physical damage, oil intrusion, or corroded connector.

4) Tools, parts and safety
- Tools: basic metric socket set, ratchet, torque wrench, long extension(s), screwdrivers, small pick to release connector tab, multimeter, oscilloscope (if available), OBD-II/diagnostic scanner to read/clear codes, dielectric grease, cleaning rags, shop light.
- Parts: correct replacement CMP (OEM or specified equivalent), new O‑ring/seal if applicable, replacement mounting bolt if damaged, harness repair parts if wiring is bad.
- Safety: park on level ground, apply parking brake, chock wheels, switch ignition OFF, disconnect negative battery terminal before unplugging sensor (recommended for safety and to avoid ECU damage). Wait until engine is cool. Wear gloves and eye protection.

5) Diagnostic checks (before replacing sensor)
- Read codes with scanner and record them.
- Visual inspection: check sensor body and connector for oil ingress, corrosion, broken wires, chafed harness, crushed pins, or a loose mount.
- Wiggle test: with ignition ON (engine off), gently wiggle harness; watch for ECU fault or intermittent signal (if safe to do). Don’t do with engine running if you’re unsure—be cautious.
- Identify sensor type: open connector — 3 pins likely Hall (power, ground, signal); 2 pins likely VR. Pinout specifics vary — check Hino workshop manual or color codes.
- Multimeter checks:
- For Hall sensor (3‑wire): with ignition ON, measure supply pin to ground should be ~5V (or what manual specifies). Check ground continuity. Backprobing the signal wire while cranking should show pulsing 0–~5V.
- For VR sensor (2‑wire): measure resistance across the two pins (cold, engine off). Typical VR coil resistance is dozens to hundreds of ohms — consult manual for expected range. With engine cranking, expect an AC voltage pulse (use AC range) that increases with RPM (a few hundred millivolts to a few volts).
- Oscilloscope: best tool. Expect a clean repeatable square wave (Hall) or sine waves (VR). Distorted or low amplitude = problem.
- If supply and ground OK but no signal, likely bad sensor. If signal present but ECU still reports cam/crank mismatch, suspect mechanical timing (cam timing chain/gear/PHASER) or wiring polarity issues.

6) Removal — step-by-step (typical procedure)
Note: Hino 700 engine variations exist. Use your Hino Workshop Manual for exact sensor location and bolt torque. The general procedure:
- Prepare: Park truck, set parking brake, chock wheels, disconnect negative battery terminal.
- Access sensor: remove engine covers, air intake ducting, or other obstructions to reach the sensor on the cylinder head/cam cover. The CMP is usually near the camshaft gear/cover or the cylinder head.
- Clean area: wipe away oil and grime around the connector and sensor to keep dirt out of the engine when you remove the sensor.
- Unplug connector: press the locking tab and pull connector straight off. Use a small pick only if necessary to release tab.
- Remove bolt(s): use the correct socket and extension to remove the mounting bolt(s). Keep track of washers/dowels.
- Extract sensor: pull sensor straight out. Some sensors have a rubber O‑ring — it may be slightly tight. Inspect locating face — it will be clean or show slight wear but no deep damage.
- Inspect mounting bore and reluctor target: remove debris, check for metal shavings or scoring, check target on cam sprocket for damage or missing teeth.
- Check wiring and connector pins for corrosion or shorts. If pins are damaged, repair harness before installing new sensor.

7) Installation — step-by-step
- Compare old vs new sensor: same length, same electrical connector, same locating features.
- Replace O‑ring/seal if supplied — lightly coat O‑ring with clean engine oil or dielectric grease to help seat and reduce tearing.
- Insert sensor: push straight in until seated against the stop. Do not force or strike the sensor face.
- Fit bolt and tighten by hand, then torque to manufacturer spec (consult Hino workshop manual). Typical small sensor bolts are low torque — do NOT overtighten.
- Reconnect electrical connector: ensure it clicks and is secure. Apply a small amount of dielectric grease into connector boots if desired to help prevent corrosion (avoid getting grease on sensor face).
- Refit any removed covers/ducting.
- Reconnect battery negative.

8) Post-install checks
- Clear codes with scanner.
- Crank and start engine: observe starting behavior and idle. Note any odd noises. If no start, re-check connector and wiring.
- Use scanner/oscilloscope to verify the cam sensor signal while cranking/running. Confirm signal present and good amplitude/shape.
- Test drive or run engine at various RPMs to confirm problem resolved.
- Re-scan to ensure no new or persistent codes.

9) What can go wrong (fail modes and other causes)
- Sensor internal failure (electronic failure, burned out Hall element, broken coil) → no signal or intermittent.
- Oil intrusion or contamination of terminal/seal → poor contact/corrosion → intermittent signal.
- Wiring harness damage (chafed, pinned, melted) → intermittent faults or no signal.
- Connector pin corrosion or bent pins → poor connection.
- Loose mounting: sensor moved out of spec and signal weak.
- Wrong sensor installed (incorrect polarity or type) → no proper signal.
- Reluctor/target damage or misalignment: cam gear or phaser slipped, tooth missing, or timing chain/gear wear → cam/crank mismatch codes even with good sensor.
- ECU failure: rare, but if sensor and wiring good and signals read OK, ECU input circuit may be faulty.
- Mechanical engine timing issues may mimic sensor failure — if both the cam and crank signals disagree in timing, inspect timing chain/gears and VVT phaser.

10) Troubleshooting logic (simple flow)
- Read codes → Visual inspect → Check connector/wiring → Check supply & ground (for Hall) or coil resistance (for VR) → Check signal with DMM/oscilloscope while cranking → If no signal and wiring OK → replace sensor → If signal exists but ECU reports timing mismatch → check timing chain/gears/cam phaser.

11) Practical tips and pitfalls
- Always confirm sensor type before testing — wrong test will mislead you (e.g., looking for DC pulses on a VR sensor).
- Use an oscilloscope for reliable diagnosis. A basic DMM can miss intermittent waveform problems.
- Don’t use excessive force on the sensor; the sensing face is delicate.
- Replace O‑ring or seal to prevent oil leaks.
- If the wiring looks brittle or has repair tape, repair the harness properly with heat shrink and solder or approved connectors — a cheap splice can cause intermittent faults.
- If fault returns after replacement, suspect wiring/grounding or timing mechanical problems.
- Keep the work area clean to avoid introducing debris into engine cavities or around the sensor bore.

12) When to call the manual or a pro
- If you need exact wiring colors, pinouts, connector diagrams, or bolt torque values — consult the Hino 700 Series workshop manual for the engine variant you’re working on.
- If you find timing chain slack, broken teeth, or cam phaser failure — that’s a mechanical timing repair requiring deeper engine work and likely a professional shop.

Closing (very short)
- The CMP is a small, inexpensive sensor with a big job: telling the ECU cam position. Diagnose carefully (supply, ground, signal), inspect wiring and mounting, and replace with a correct part, replacing seals and securing the connector. Use the Hino workshop manual for exact locations, pinouts and torque specs.
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