Tools & consumables (workshop-ready)
- Safety: safety glasses, nitrile gloves, shop rags, drip trays, wheel chocks, hearing protection, fire extinguisher.
- Lifting/holding: heavy-duty hoist or axle stands rated for vehicle, jack + stands (if no hoist).
- Air-system specific: air-line cutters, 9/16", 11/16", 3/4" etc. open/box wrenches and large flare‑nut (line) wrenches, adjustable wrench, hose pliers.
- Hydraulic/brake-line specific: 3/8"–3/4" flare‑nut wrenches, tubing cutter, tubing bender, double‑flare tool (ISO/inverted double flare kit), bench vice, deburring tool, small file, flare nut sockets if available, torque wrench.
- Fasteners & sealing: new fittings, new crush/copper washers (banjo bolts), thread sealant or PTFE tape for pneumatic tapered threads per manual, anti-seize (where permitted), replacement clips/retainers.
- Replacement lines/hoses: correct spec air hose (reinforced rubber/EPDM), steel hard‑line sections or pre‑formed brake line assemblies, hydraulic brake hose assemblies if required.
- Bleeding equipment: pressure bleeder or vacuum bleeder, clear bleed hose, catch bottle, hand brake pedal depressor or assistant.
- Leak check: spray bottle with soapy water, leak detector.
- Misc: penetrating oil, wire brush, marker, measuring tape, marker, service manual (for schematic, routing, torque specs).

Important safety precautions (non-negotiable)
1. Confirm brake system type: Hino 700 series are typically air‑braked heavy trucks — drain all air reservoirs before working. If vehicle has hydraulic circuits, treat them separately.
2. Isolate energy: park on level, chock wheels, block vehicle so it cannot move, disconnect battery if working near electrical components, shut off compressor/engine.
3. Drain air tanks fully via drain cocks and exhaust until gauge reads zero. Lock out compressor if possible.
4. Never work on pressurized lines. Confirm no stored pressure (air) and no fluid pressure (hydraulic).
5. Wear eye protection: pressurized air/hydraulic fluid can injure.
6. Collect and dispose of brake fluid/oil per regulations. Brake fluid destroys paint — protect surfaces.
7. Replace all crush washers, seals and corroded fittings — do not reuse.

Parts commonly required
- New air hose sections (correct ID/pressure rating), quick‑disconnect fittings or threaded fittings as required.
- New steel hard brake line(s) or pre‑bent assemblies if hard lines are corroded/damaged.
- New hydraulic brake hose assemblies where rubber lines are age‑cracked.
- New banjo bolts and copper crush washers (every time).
- New clamps/retainers/insulation sleeves.
- Brake fluid (DOT type per Hino manual—check spec; DOT3/4 common for non-air systems).
- Thread sealant/PTFE tape for tapered air fittings if specified by manufacturer.

Step-by-step — air brake line replacement (Hino 700 typical)
1. Preparation
- Park, chock, shut down, drain all air tanks fully. Turn keys off and immobilize vehicle.
- Remove wheel(s) or panels as required to access line routing. Use drip trays to catch residual fluid or debris.
- Inspect routing and clamp locations and mark original routing with tape/marker to ensure new line follows same safe path.

2. Remove old line/hose
- Clean area around fitting with wire brush and penetrating oil to avoid contamination.
- Use correct-size flare‑nut/line wrench to break fitting loose — hold the union with a second wrench to avoid twisting tubing.
- If removing push‑to‑connect fittings, depress collar and pull hose out after draining system.
- Cut hose only after depressurization. Label or photograph connections for reassembly.

3. Prepare new hose/line
- For flexible air hose: cut to length square using air-line cutter. Fit ferrules/clamps per manufacturer. Slide protective sleeve on if needed.
- For steel hard line: measure and bend using tubing bender to match original shape. Use tubing cutter to cut and deburr (both ID and OD). Deburr with file to remove sharp edges.
- If fabricating a flare: produce an inverted double flare (ISO/SAE style used on most brake systems). Steps:
a. Clamp tubing in vice or flare tool at correct length.
b. Use the flaring adapter to form the first cone (pre‑flare).
c. Use double‑flare mandrel to compress and form the double lip.
d. Inspect flare for concentricity and no cracks. File off any burrs.

- Note: On modern Hino pneumatic lines, many fittings are push‑to‑connect or threaded compression fittings — use proper ferrule or olive and tighten to spec. Do not mix sealing methods (i.e., do not use tape on flare fittings).

4. Install new line/hose
- Dry-fit routing, secure with clamps at original clamp points and using new retaining clips.
- Hand-start fittings to avoid cross-threading.
- Tighten fittings with flare‑nut wrenches. For banjo bolts, install new copper crush washers on both sides of the banjo, torque to manufacturer spec.
- For tapered pipe threads (NPT/BSPT), apply PTFE tape/sealant as per manual — do not apply to sealing surfaces that rely on ferrules or crush washers.

5. Pressurize and leak test
- Reconnect compressor if isolated, close drain cocks, slowly charge system while watching for leaks.
- Spray fittings with soapy water and watch for bubbles. Tighten only as required; recheck torque spec.
- Cycle brakes several times to confirm no leaks, then with vehicle on stands, pressurize to normal cut‑in pressure and check reservoir drains again.

6. Functional checks
- With an assistant in cab, apply service brake and observe any movement in lines and listen for leaks.
- Pump brakes and check for loss of pressure.
- Check automatic slack adjusters and brake chambers for damage.
- Road test under controlled conditions: check brake performance and recheck fittings for leaks after initial run.

Step-by-step — hydraulic brake line replacement (if equipped)
1. Same initial safety steps (vehicle supported, fluid drained/ reservoir cap off and covered).
2. Remove old line: use flare‑nut wrenches. Catch any leaking fluid in a pan.
3. If fabricating hard line: cut to length, bend to shape, deburr, make double flares. For pre-bent assemblies, replace as a unit.
4. Install new line/hose: new crush washers on banjo, anti-seize per specs on threads but avoid contaminating sealing surfaces.
5. Tighten to torque spec from workshop manual.
6. Bleed the circuit: bench-bleed master cylinder (if removed), then bleed wheel cylinders/calipers using pressure or vacuum bleeder until clean fluid and no air. Follow sequence per manual.
7. Check pedal firmness and leak test.

How each main tool is used (brief)
- Flare‑nut / line wrench: grips more of the nut face than an open wrench to avoid rounding soft fittings. Always use the right size and hold the mating fitting with a second wrench.
- Tubing cutter: place around tube, tighten until blade scores, rotate, tighten gradually until cut; produces square cut. Deburr inside/outside after cutting.
- Tubing bender: supports tube so it bends cleanly without kinking; match bend radius to original. Use proper die for tube diameter.
- Double‑flare tool: clamp tube in block at correct protrusion, use cone to pre‑flare (if required by kit), then press mandrel to form inverted double flare. Inspect visually for cracks and even flare.
- Bench vice: used to hold fittings/line while flaring or assembling; protect soft tubing with soft jaws or folded brass to avoid deformation.
- Vacuum/pressure bleeder: evacuate air from caliper/line by pulling vacuum on bleeding nipple or pressurize reservoir to push fluid through; speeds bleeding and reduces air ingress.

Common pitfalls & how to avoid them
- Working on pressurized system: always drain air tanks and relieve hydraulic pressure first.
- Rounding fittings: use proper flare‑nut wrenches and two-wrench technique.
- Reusing crush washers/seals: always replace crush washers and any corroded fittings.
- Bad flares: incorrect double flares cause leaks—use correct flaring tool and inspect for concentric, smooth flares; discard cracked or uneven flares.
- Kinking tubing: use proper bender; a kinked hard line must be replaced.
- Wrong routing: make sure new lines follow original routing to avoid abrasion, heat exposure, or interference with suspension/steering.
- Contaminated fluid: cap open lines and fittings immediately; flush and bleed system thoroughly.
- Over/under‑torquing: torque to the workshop manual. Over‑torque can crush bras fittings or strip threads, under torque leaks.
- Using wrong sealant: don’t use PTFE tape on flare-to-flare seals or where manual prohibits; use correct sealing method for the thread type.
- Not checking ABS/relay valves: air systems have multiple valves and protection devices. If replacing lines near valves, ensure proper reconnection and bench testing of valve function.

Final testing & sign‑off
- After repair and a controlled road test, recheck all fittings for leaks and re-torque per spec after first heat cycle.
- Document replaced parts, line IDs, and torque values. Dispose of waste fluid/parts per law.
- If ABS or electronic brake controls are present, verify fault codes cleared and run any built‑in self-tests via diagnostic tool.

Use the Hino 700 workshop manual for exact part numbers, hose diameters, connector thread types and torque values. Follow OEM routing, clamp spacing and replacement intervals for hoses.
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Tools & consumables
- Metric hand tools: 8–32 mm sockets and combination wrenches, ratchet, extensions.
- Torque wrench (range to at least 200 Nm).
- Snap‑ring (circlip) pliers (internal & external).
- Ball‑joint/side‑puller or puller fork.
- Punch set, brass drift, soft‑face hammer.
- Pry bar, flat screwdriver.
- Bearing/bushing driver set or bench press (or appropriately sized sockets).
- Penetrating oil, brake cleaner, rags.
- Grease gun and multipurpose lithium grease.
- Threadlock (medium), anti‑seize.
- Replacement pins, bushings, rubber boots, circlips, cotter pins, locknuts or new linkage rod(s) as required.
- Hydraulic jack and axle stands or cab props (if tilting cab).
- Safety gear: gloves, safety glasses, hearing protection.
- Wheel chocks, padlock/key removal if needed to prevent engine start.

Safety precautions (must do)
- Park on level ground, chock both sides of wheels. Engage parking brake and place transmission in neutral only when instructed to free the linkage—otherwise park in gear as applicable for safety.
- Key out and remove from ignition; tag “Do not start”.
- If tilting cab, use factory cab props or mechanical stand/support. Never rely on cab tilt hydraulic pressure alone.
- Support any lifted components with stands. Never work under unsupported cab.
- Wear eye protection when striking components; use gloves to avoid grease and cuts.
- Keep loose small parts in a tray; note orientation/mark alignment before removal.

Quick overview of what you’ll do
1. Access the shift linkage (interior and under-cab as required).
2. Inspect and mark alignment of linkage joints/rods.
3. Remove worn bushings, pins, joints and replace with new components.
4. Reassemble, torque to spec, lubricate, adjust neutral/shift alignment.
5. Functional test and road test; re‑check fasteners.

Step‑by‑step procedure

1) Initial inspection & preparation
- Tools used: flashlight, rag, penetrating oil.
- Remove interior trim/console around the shifter to expose pivot/rod attachment.
- Visually inspect shift lever, rubber boot, linkage rods, universal joints, pivot bolts and bushings for play, cracks, torn boots, corrosion, missing circlips.
- Spray penetrating oil on rusted fasteners and let soak.

2) Secure cab / provide access
- Tools used: cab props or mechanical support, jack and stands.
- Tilt cab per factory procedure and deploy cab safety props. If cab not tiltable for your model, gain access beneath cab with stands.
- Block cab open with props; never rely on hydraulics alone.

3) Mark alignment & free play check
- Tools: paint marker or scribe, tape.
- With shifter in neutral, mark relative orientation of shift lever to linkage rod with a paint mark so you can reinstall in same indexed position. This avoids losing neutral alignment.
- Check free play by moving lever side-to-side and in/out; note excessive play at any pivot.

4) Remove retaining hardware and detach linkage
- Tools: sockets/wrenches, snap-ring pliers, punch, drift.
- Remove cotter pins, circlips and locknuts. Use snap‑ring pliers for circlips.
- Use a puller or pry carefully to separate clevis or ball joint from pin. Hit the end of the pivot pin with a punch/hammer to drift out once retaining clip removed (support the linkage so it doesn’t fall).
- Keep track of shims/spacers orientation.

Common pitfall: not supporting the lever/rod and letting it drop and damage other components. Use a rag or strap to control movement.

5) Remove and replace worn components (bushings, pins, rod ends)
- Tools: bench press or bushing driver set, brass drift, hammer, heat if required.
- If bushings are pressed in, use a bushing driver or appropriate size socket and press them out; apply heat (induction gun) only if necessary and safe.
- Clean bore and shaft, remove corrosion using emery cloth.
- Install new bushings using driver/press, ensuring they seat flush. Use grease or light oil to ease installation — do not distort rubber.
- Replace pivot pins, circlips, cotter pins, splash boots, and any worn rod ends or universal joints.
- Apply medium threadlocker on threads where specified; anti‑seize where recommended (consult manual).

How tool is used: bushing driver/press drives the bushing squarely into its bore to avoid distortion. Snap‑ring pliers spread or compress circlips for removal/installation. Torque wrench is used at final assembly to ensure proper clamping without over‑tightening.

Replacement parts typically required
- Shift linkage bushings (rubber or nylon).
- Pivot pins/clevis pins and associated circlips or cotter pins.
- Linkage rod assembly (if bent or excessively worn).
- Universal joints or spherical rod ends (if present).
- Shift lever boot/seal.
- Locknuts, washers and any specific springs or detent parts found degraded.

Common pitfall: reusing old circlips or bent pins — always replace retaining hardware to prevent failure.

6) Reassemble linkage
- Tools: sockets/wrenches, torque wrench, grease gun, punches for alignment.
- Reinstall components in reverse order using your alignment marks. Use a punch to align holes for pin insertion.
- Tighten nuts to factory torque values. If you don’t have the manual, tighten securely then back off slightly so pivots move freely without excessive play — but do obtain proper torque spec and re‑torque correctly.
- Grease all grease fittings; apply grease into bushings and joints until fresh grease appears (if fittings present).

Common pitfall: over‑torquing pivot nuts so linkage binds. Leave proper rotational freedom.

7) Adjust neutral/shift stop (if applicable)
- Tools: wrenches, feeler gauge if required.
- With shifter in marked neutral, adjust linkage length or stop bolts until the gearbox selector is centered in neutral (refer to workshop manual for exact procedure).
- Lock jam nuts. Make sure reverse lockout or detents are functioning.

8) Functional testing (stationary)
- Tools: helper to operate shifter, flashlight.
- With engine OFF and parking brake on, move shifter through all gear positions. Check for smooth engagement and clean, positive detents for each gear.
- Verify no binding or tight spots and that neutral is centered per marks.
- Inspect for any interference between linkage and cab/frame components.

9) Road test and re‑check
- Conduct a slow road test under safe conditions. Shift through all gears under load. Listen for missed shifts or selector binding.
- After 50–100 km or first day of operation, recheck fastener torque, grease fittings and circlips.

Common pitfalls summary (avoid these)
- Not supporting the cab or working under an unsupported cab.
- Failing to mark alignment before disassembly — causes mis-centered neutral.
- Reusing worn bushings, pins, circlips, or boots.
- Over‑tightening pivot nuts so linkage binds.
- Not greasing new components or leaving dirt in joints.
- Missing shims/spacers orientation leading to misadjusted travel.
- Ignoring transmission internal faults (not all shift problems are linkage related).

When to replace the whole assembly
- Excessive play after replacing bushings, bent rods, heavily corroded/unserviceable universal joints, or internal transmission issues. If multiple joints are worn, replacing the full linkage rod assembly is faster and more reliable.

Final notes
- Always consult the Hino 700 Series factory workshop manual for exact torque specs, grease types, adjustment measurements and any model‑specific procedures.
- Replace small parts (circlips, cotter pins, locknuts) rather than reusing them.
- Keep work area clean and test thoroughly before returning vehicle to service.

Done.
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