Tools & PPE
- Tools: 10–14 mm socket set with ratchet + extension, flat-head screwdriver, pliers (slip-joint), long pick or small hook, adjustable spanner, torque wrench (0–50 Nm range), shop vacuum (optional), soft-bristle brush, lint-free rags.
- Consumables/parts: correct Hino 700 air filter element(s) (OEM part or equivalent), pre-cleaner element or foam if fitted, new lid gasket / O-ring if worn, light spray cleaner (for housing only), replacement clamps or bolts if corroded.
- PPE: gloves, safety glasses, dust mask (paper dust), ear protection (if running engine later).
- Safety gear for vehicle: wheel chocks.

Safety precautions
1. Park on level ground, engage parking brake, chock wheels.
2. Engine OFF, keys removed. Allow turbo/intake to cool if recently run.
3. Work with adequate lighting and stable footing. Avoid confined space under cab unless supported.
4. If using compressed air, wear eye protection and a dust mask — do NOT point nozzle at yourself or blow dust into the air freely; avoid using compressed air to “clean” paper elements—replacement preferred.

Preparation
1. Confirm correct replacement filter(s) for exact Hino 700 model/year/VIN. Do not assume all 700-series use same element.
2. Note configuration: single canister, dual-element (primary + safety), or cyclone pre-cleaner. Identify which elements require replacement.

Step-by-step procedure
1. Position and secure
- Chock wheels, set parking brake, open bonnet/cab access to air cleaner housing. On many Hino 700 trucks the air cleaner housing is side-mounted inside an access panel or behind a grille.

2. Access the housing
- Remove any access panel(s) or grille using screwdriver or socket. Keep fasteners labeled or in a small tray.
- If cab tilt required to access housing, follow manufacturer procedure to tilt cab and secure it.

3. Release housing cover
- Locate wing nuts, quick-release latches or bolts holding the air cleaner lid. Use socket or screwdriver to loosen. Use pliers for stubborn clamps.
- Remove the lid slowly — expect dust. Set lid aside on clean surface.

4. Inspect before removing element
- Visually inspect interior: oil, coolant, excessive dirt, or water indicates other faults (intake leak, breached turbo drain, etc.). If water/oil present, investigate cause before installing new filter.
- Take note of element orientation (arrow or “airflow” marking). Photograph if necessary to ensure correct reassembly.

5. Remove old element(s)
- Lift out primary element straight — avoid banging it against housing. If there is a secondary (safety) element, remove it too.
- For pre-cleaner/cyclone units, follow manufacturer sequence to remove bowl and element.

6. Clean housing
- Use a shop vacuum and soft brush to remove loose dirt from housing and lid. Wipe with a lint-free rag and mild cleaner if oily dirt present.
- Inspect inlet/outlet ducts and snorkel for obstructions, holes, cracked seals or collapsed hose. Remove debris from snorkel.
- Check and clean or replace drain plugs or moisture traps if fitted.

7. Inspect seals and mating surfaces
- Inspect lid gasket and sealing faces. Replace gasket if brittle, cracked, or compressed. Remove old gasket material and clean mating surfaces.
- Check clamp hardware and replace any corroded bolts/clamps.

8. Fit new filter(s)
- Install the new element(s) in the correct orientation. Ensure the sealing flange seats fully in the housing groove and the element sits flat.
- For dual elements: install safety element then primary (or follow manufacturer ordering) — never invert.

9. Reinstall cover and fasten
- Carefully replace lid, ensuring the gasket stays in position.
- Tighten latches/bolts gradually and evenly. Use torque wrench to final-tighten to manufacturer spec if available. Typical small cover bolts/clamps: 6–12 Nm; hose clamp screws: 2–6 Nm — snug, avoid over-torque which can crush the seal or strip threads.

10. Reconnect ducts/sensors
- Reattach any hoses, sensors or vacuum lines disconnected. Check for airtight fit and secure clamps.
- If there’s an intake air temp or pressure sensor, ensure electrical connectors are clean and clicked fully in.

11. Final checks
- Start the engine, listen for unusual intake whistling or hissing (indicates leaks). Run at idle and blip throttle to verify no inlet collapse or noise.
- Inspect around housing while running for any movement or leaks.
- Record service interval and date/mileage. Dispose of used filter according to local regulations.

How each tool is used (concise)
- Socket & ratchet: remove/reinstall bolts and clamp nuts quickly; use extension for deep bolts.
- Flat-head screwdriver: pry small clips, open latches and reposition gasket — avoid gouging plastic.
- Pliers: hold and release stubborn hose clamps or pull out sealing clips.
- Torque wrench: final tighten of bolts to specified torque to prevent over-tightening.
- Shop vacuum/soft brush: remove debris from housing without damaging sealing faces.
- Pick/hook: lift out old gasket pieces or reach small debris.

Replacement parts required
- Main air filter element (always replace).
- Secondary/safety element if fitted (replace if dirty or per interval).
- Pre-cleaner element or foam (if installed).
- Lid gasket / O-ring (replace if worn).
- Clamps/fasteners if corroded or damaged.

Common pitfalls & how to avoid them
- Pitfall: Reusing damaged gasket → causes unfiltered air ingestion. Fix: replace gasket if any damage.
- Pitfall: Installing element upside-down or wrong orientation → reduces filtration. Fix: follow airflow arrows/photograph before removal.
- Pitfall: Leaving debris in housing → contaminates new filter. Fix: vacuum and wipe housing thoroughly.
- Pitfall: Blowing filter with compressed air → tears paper fibers and embeds dirt deeper. Fix: replace element; only use compressed air outward on reusable-type pre-cleaners if manuf. permits.
- Pitfall: Over-tightening clamps/bolts → damages housing or crushes seal. Fix: torque to spec or snug evenly.
- Pitfall: Not checking inlet ducts for damage → leak still allows dirty air. Fix: inspect snorkel, hoses and clamps.
- Pitfall: Forgetting to replace safety element (if present) → no backup filtration. Fix: replace both if maintenance interval calls for it.
- Pitfall: Failing to check for oil/water in housing → mask of another problem (turbo drain, intake leak). Fix: investigate source before refitting filter.

Time estimate
- Typical: 15–45 minutes depending on access and configuration.

Waste disposal
- Used filters are classified as industrial waste in many jurisdictions. Dispose per local environmental regulations.

Done.
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