- Quick important note
- Most Hino 700 trucks have diesel engines and use glow plugs, not spark plugs. The procedure below is written for replacing glow plugs. If your vehicle actually has spark plugs (rare on Hino 700), the physical steps are similar but plug type, socket size and some torque values differ — always confirm engine type and manual specs before starting.

- Safety first
- Disconnect battery negative terminal to avoid electrical shorts.
- Work only on a cold engine to avoid burns or snapping a hot glow plug.
- Wear safety glasses, gloves and use good lighting.
- Keep fuel sources away and work in a well-ventilated area.
- Use jack stands if you raise the vehicle — never rely on a jack alone.

- Tools (each tool explained + how to use)
- Ratchet handle (1/2" drive recommended)
- Description: Main turning handle for sockets.
- How to use: Attach sockets and extensions, set direction switch for loosening/tightening.
- Socket set (deep sockets; metric sizes likely 8 mm–14 mm; include 1/2" drive)
- Description: Deep sockets reach recessed glow/spark plugs and fit over insulators.
- How to use: Select correct socket that fits the plug hex snugly; use with extensions to reach down into the head.
- Glow plug socket (insulated or rubber-lined deep socket sized to glow plug hex)
- Description: Special deep socket that grips the plug without crushing the porcelain and often holds the plug when removing.
- How to use: Fit over glow plug and turn with ratchet; rubber insert holds plug for safe removal.
- Extensions and universal (swivel) joint
- Description: Extensions increase reach; swivel joint lets you approach at an angle.
- How to use: Use an extension between ratchet and socket; swivel helps reach awkward angles without stressing plug hex.
- Torque wrench (capable of specified torque, common range 5–100 Nm with 1/2" drive)
- Description: Ensures correct installation torque so plug seals and threads aren’t damaged.
- How to use: Set required torque per manual, tighten until wrench clicks; don’t over-torque.
- Multimeter (digital)
- Description: Measures voltage and resistance to test glow plug and harness.
- How to use: Set to ohms to test plug resistance; set to volts to check power supply when cranking or on ignition.
- Penetrating oil (e.g., PB Blaster)
- Description: Soaks and loosens seized/frozen plugs before removal.
- How to use: Apply to base of plugs and let soak per product instructions (often 10–30 minutes).
- Small wire brush / pick / shop rag
- Description: Cleans carbon/debris from around plug seat before removal and before reinstall.
- How to use: Brush area gently, remove loose debris so nothing falls into the combustion chamber.
- Electrical contact cleaner and dielectric grease
- Description: Cleaner removes corrosion from plug connector; dielectric grease protects electrical connection.
- How to use: Spray connectors, dry, then put a very small amount of dielectric grease on the connector after reinstalling.
- Torque extension or crowfoot adapter (only if space prevents direct torque wrench access)
- Description: Allows accurate torque application in tight spots.
- How to use: Attach to torque wrench and use adapter-specific torque correction procedure if required.
- Optional but recommended: Heat source (propane torch) and stud extractor set
- Why used: If a glow plug breaks or is heavily seized, heat can expand metal for easier removal; a stud extractor may be needed if the plug snaps off.
- How to use: Heat only per safe procedures; use extractor kits as directed and consider professional help if plug breaks flush with the head.
- Thread chaser or helicoil kit (for damaged threads)
- Why used: If glow plug threads are damaged, a thread repair kit restores thread integrity; required when threads are stripped or cross-threaded.
- How to use: Follow kit instructions; this is an advanced repair and may be better handled by a machine shop.

- Parts you will likely need (what, why)
- Replacement glow plugs (one per cylinder) — OEM or approved aftermarket
- Why: Glow plugs wear out, open circuit, or fail to heat. Replace the bad ones or all at once for consistent performance.
- What to buy: Match engine model and plug length/hex size; buy exact OEM part numbers or reputable equivalent.
- Glow plug seals/O-rings (if fitted)
- Why: Seals prevent oil or combustion gas leaks around plug; reusing old torn seals can leak.
- What to buy: Replacement seals specific to glow plug type.
- Replacement connector(s) or harness segments
- Why: Corroded connectors or broken harness wiring can mimic plug failure.
- What to buy: OEM connectors or pigtail repair kits to restore good electrical contact.
- Glow plug relay/resistor pack (if multiple plugs fail or old)
- Why: A faulty relay or control unit can prevent all plugs from heating; replace if voltage/power supply tests bad.
- What to buy: OEM relay or recommended replacement for your model.

- Basic pre-checks and testing
- Visually inspect connectors for corrosion, melting or broken wires.
- With battery connected, measure coil/harness voltage at the connector when glow is active (follow truck’s glow sequence or ignition cycle). Expect battery voltage at the connector during glow activation; no voltage means relay/wiring issue.
- Remove one connector and measure glow plug resistance across its two terminals (or between tip and terminal if 2-wire). A functioning glow plug usually shows low resistance (typically a few ohms); an open/infinite reading means failed plug.

- Removal procedure (general — follow workshop manual for your engine)
- Disconnect battery negative.
- Remove obstruction components to reach plugs (engine cover, intake pipe, valve cover, cable trays) as needed and set aside labeled.
- Clean around glow plug base thoroughly to keep debris out of combustion chamber.
- Unplug electrical connector from glow plug; label wiring if necessary.
- Apply penetrating oil at plug base if they look corroded; wait as recommended.
- Fit the correct deep glow-plug socket over the plug; use extension and ratchet. Turn counter-clockwise to loosen slowly—if it resists, don’t force; apply more penetrating oil and wait or apply heat carefully.
- Remove glow plug straight out; keep plugs upright to avoid dropping carbon into the head.
- Inspect removed plugs: broken tip, heavy carbon, or open circuit → replace.
- If a plug breaks, stop and consider using a stud extractor or seek professional machine shop help; do not drive bits into the cylinder.

- Installation procedure
- Clean the plug hole with a brush and rag; remove debris.
- Fit new glow plug (with any new seal/O-ring). Check manufacturer’s instructions about anti-seize — many manufacturers advise against anti-seize on glow plugs because it alters torque readings.
- Hand-thread the plug first to avoid cross-threading.
- Use torque wrench to tighten to the specified torque from the workshop manual. If you don’t have the manual, tighten snugly but avoid over-torquing — better to get the exact spec before final torquing.
- Reconnect electrical connector (use dielectric grease sparingly inside connector).
- Reinstall any removed components in reverse order.
- Reconnect battery negative.

- Post-install testing
- Turn ignition to glow on and verify voltage at each plug connector if possible.
- Start engine; engine should start more readily when glow plugs are functioning, especially when cold.
- Check for leaks, unusual noises, or fault codes. If warning lights remain, scan for trouble codes or consult workshop manual.

- Troubleshooting notes and when to get professional help
- If a glow plug is seized or breaks below the head surface: stop and consult a workshop or machinist — removal without proper tools can damage the cylinder head.
- If multiple plugs fail quickly after replacement: investigate relay, wiring harness, or control module.
- If threads are stripped: use a thread repair kit or have a machine shop retap/insert Helicoil.
- If unsure about torque values, injector proximity, or disassembly of major components, get professional mechanical help.

- Final practical tips
- Replace all glow plugs in a bank if one is bad and mileage is high — it’s common and avoids repeat labor.
- Buy one or two spare glow plugs to keep in the tool box if you travel in remote areas.
- Keep the workshop manual or a repair sheet handy for exact socket sizes, torque specs and wiring diagrams.

- Important: consult your Hino 700 workshop manual for engine-specific socket sizes, torque specifications and wiring diagrams before final torquing or ordering parts.
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Goal: find, repair or replace a vacuum hose and restore proper vacuum system function on a Hino 700 Series. Below is a clear, step‑by‑step workshop guide for a beginner mechanic: what each component does, why vacuum matters, what can fail, tools and parts, stepwise repair, and how to test the job.

Quick safety first
- Park on level ground, chock wheels, set parking brake. Shut engine off and let it cool.
- Wear gloves, eye protection. Avoid hot/exhaust parts and rotating components.
- If system has an electric vacuum pump or electrical components, disconnect battery before working.

Theory — why this matters (simple)
- Vacuum = lower pressure than ambient air. Many actuators use atmospheric pressure pushing against a vacuum-created diaphragm to create movement (like a one-sided piston).
- The vacuum system supplies and holds that negative pressure so actuators (EGR, turbo wastegate actuators, HVAC door actuators, vacuum solenoids, and on some trucks vacuum‑assisted devices) work reliably. Think of the vacuum system like an electrical system: the pump is the generator, the reservoir is a battery bank, and hoses/wires are the cables. Leaks are like an electrical short: devices lose power or behave erratically.

Main components — what they are and what they do
- Vacuum source (pump)
- On diesel trucks this is usually an engine‑driven vacuum pump or an electric vacuum pump. It creates the negative pressure. If it fails, the whole vacuum network loses pressure.
- Check valve (one‑way valve)
- Allows vacuum to be stored in the reservoir and prevents backflow (keeps vacuum if pump stops). It’s a one‑way door; orientation matters (arrow points from pump toward reservoir/actuators).
- Vacuum reservoir (canister)
- A small tank that stores vacuum so actuators can still work when demand spikes or pump is off. Like a capacitor that smooths supply.
- Vacuum hoses/lines
- Flexible tubing carrying negative pressure from source to reservoir and from reservoir to actuators/solenoids. Materials: rubber/NBR, silicone, sometimes braided for heat areas. Inner diameter and length matter for flow and response time.
- Vacuum fittings/connectors/clamps
- Barbed fittings, quick‑connects, and clamps secure hoses to components. Loose fittings leak.
- Vacuum actuators (diaphragm cylinders)
- Devices that move a rod/valve using vacuum across a flexible diaphragm. If vacuum is lost they won’t actuate fully.
- Vacuum control solenoids/valves
- Electrically controlled valves that route vacuum to specific actuators on demand. They can stick or leak.
- Vacuum sensor/switch (if present)
- Monitors vacuum level for ECU or diagnostics.

What goes wrong (common failure modes)
- Hoses: cracked, split, collapsed, hardened/brittle, chewed by rodents, heat degraded, or chafed. This is the most common cause.
- Fittings/clamps loose or corroded → leak.
- Check valve failed or installed backwards → no reservoir retention.
- Reservoir cracked or internally contaminated (soot/oil) → reduced capacity or leak.
- Pump failure (worn vanes, electrical fault, seized).
- Solenoid stuck or leaking internally.
- Diaphragm actuator ruptured or sticky.
- Internal contamination: oil, soot, carbon can clog lines or diaphragms.
- Incorrect routing near heat/exhaust → hose collapse/melt.

Tools & parts you’ll need
- Basic hand tools: screwdrivers (flat & Phillips), pliers (needle-nose), rachet + sockets.
- Hose cutters or sharp utility knife.
- Replacement vacuum hose (correct ID — measure original; use vacuum-rated hose resistant to heat and oils; silicone high-temp where needed). Get OEM part numbers if possible.
- Replacement check valve(s), reservoir (if cracked), and clamps (spring clips or worm clamps as per original).
- Small hand vacuum pump with gauge (for testing and bench‑testing actuators).
- Smoke machine or soapy water spray for leak detection.
- Multimeter/scan tool if diagnosing solenoids or electrical vacuum pumps.
- Replacement fittings/connectors if originals are damaged.

Step‑by‑step procedure: locate, remove, replace, test
1) Identify the problematic function and locate the hose
- Symptoms: HVAC doors not moving, EGR/turbo actuator faults, check engine lights for vacuum‑related codes, hissing noise, or slow actuator response.
- Follow hoses from vacuum pump or reservoir to the suspect actuator/valve. Take pictures or mark routing to replicate later.

2) Inspect visually and by touch
- Look for cracks, flattened sections, soft spots, oil or soot contamination, melted areas, or rodent chewing. Squeeze hoses — should be firm but flexible (not brittle). Listen for hissing with engine at idle (if safe to run briefly).

3) Remove old hose
- With engine off and cooled, loosen clamps or release quick‑connects. If clips are stubborn, use pliers. Cut hose if necessary to remove — take care not to damage fittings.
- Keep old hose length to use as a template for new hose length and routing.

4) Inspect associated parts
- Check the check valve orientation and operation. Remove and blow through it: air should flow one way only (pump → reservoir/actuator). Replace if stuck or flows both ways.
- Inspect reservoir for cracks/holes and mounting. Replace if damaged.
- Inspect fittings/barbs for corrosion or deformation.

5) Prepare replacement hose and fittings
- Cut new hose to measured length with a clean square cut. Avoid sharp angles and tight bends. Use hose rated for vacuum and the ambient temperature.
- If routing near hot surfaces, use high‑temp silicone or add heat shield.

6) Install new hose
- Slide clamps on before pushing hose on. Push hose fully onto barbed fitting; hose should cover the barb ridges. If using quick‑connects, listen/feel for the click.
- Install check valve in correct orientation (arrow toward actuator/reservoir). Tighten clamps snugly; don’t over‑torque plastic fittings. For spring clamps, compress and seat into groove. For worm clamps, tighten until snug — avoid crushing the hose.
- Secure routing with clips or cable ties so hose doesn’t rub on sharp edges or contact hot exhaust/turbo.

7) Bench test components (optional but recommended)
- Use hand vacuum pump on the actuator port: verify it holds vacuum and the actuator moves fully. If it doesn’t hold vacuum, suspect diaphragm or actuator leak.
- Test check valve with hand pump and observe holding ability.

8) System start & leak test
- Reconnect battery if disconnected. Start engine if required for pump type (do not run engine if you are in a confined space). For electric pump, you may need ignition on to run pump.
- Spray soapy water around new hoses, fittings, and check valve to find leaks (bubbles indicate leak). Alternatively use a smoke machine to detect leaks.
- Use vacuum gauge (in‑line with reservoir or at actuator port) to measure system vacuum. Typical operating vacuum for many actuators is roughly in the 15–25 inHg range (approximate — check OEM spec). The system should reach and hold vacuum; the decay rate once pump is off should be slow.

9) Functional checks
- Command actuators (via controls or scan tool) and confirm correct movement. For HVAC doors, change flaps and confirm action. For turbo/EGR actuators, watch movement with hand or scan tool. Clear any stored ECU codes and check for recurrence.

10) Final inspection
- Re‑secure any panels, re‑route to OEM path, ensure hoses have clearance from moving parts. Record parts used and serial numbers if required by workshop.

Diagnostics & measurements (how to confirm cause)
- Leak: use vacuum gauge and listen/soap test. If pump runs but vacuum never builds, suspect large leak or pump failure.
- Slow decay: a small leak or faulty check valve. Pump builds vacuum but it leaks away slowly.
- Rapid loss under load: reservoir too small, check valve stuck, or hose collapsing under suction.
- No vacuum and pump not running: check electrical supply to pump (fuse/relay/wiring). For mechanical pumps, inspect drive/fittings.

Practical tips and common gotchas
- Always replace vacuum hose with the same ID and vacuum‑rated material. A smaller hose will restrict flow; too large makes fitting tricky and prone to slipping.
- Mark hose routing and make clean, gentle bends — avoid kinks. Use gentle radius turns.
- Replace clamps when corroded. Spring clamps maintain constant tension better than worm clamps for vacuum lines that see temperature swing.
- If oil/soot contamination is present, find source: crankcase breather or EGR contamination may contaminate hoses and diaphragms. Cleaning may be temporary; replacement is often required.
- Check valve orientation: it’s a very common reassembly mistake. If installed backwards the reservoir won’t hold vacuum.
- Don’t overtighten clamps on soft plastic fittings — they can crack.

When to replace other parts
- Replace check valve if it fails the one‑way test or leaks.
- Replace the reservoir if cracked or internally corroded/blocked.
- Replace vacuum pump if it won’t build vacuum despite no leaks. For electric pumps, check voltage and ground first.
- Replace actuators/diaphragms if they don’t hold vacuum when bench tested.

Simple troubleshooting flow (fast)
- Hissing noise? → soap test along hoses.
- Vacuum low/none but pump runs? → find leak/check valve.
- Vacuum low and pump not running? → electrical/mechanical pump fault.
- Actuator doesn’t move but vacuum present? → actuator diaphragm failed or linkage seized.

Final verification
- After repair, confirm vacuum holds under engine off (if reservoir should hold) and under load (actuators operate reliably). Clear codes and run the truck through all relevant functions at idle and on a test drive. Reinspect hoses after short road test.

Closing practical note
Treat the vacuum system like a sealed pressure system — any small leak anywhere can upset function. Replace suspicious hoses rather than patching temporary fixes, and always confirm with a vacuum gauge or hand pump that the repaired circuit holds the required vacuum.

No questions asked — follow the steps and use the diagnostic checks above.
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Tools & consumables needed
- Full metric socket & wrench set (including deep sockets), extensions, breaker bar
- Torque wrench (capable of required truck torques)
- Transmission jack (rated for heavy trucks) with adapter/beam to support gearbox
- Engine support bar or hoist (to support engine when gearbox is removed)
- Clutch alignment mandrel (spline size for Hino 700) or OEM alignment tool
- Pry bars, screwdrivers, rubber mallet
- Snap‑ring pliers (if bearing retained by circlip)
- Bearing puller (small) / pilot bearing puller (if pilot bearing removal required)
- Hydraulic line wrenches, flare‑nut wrench set
- Penetrating oil, anti‑seize compound, high‑temp grease (for sliding surfaces only)
- Gasket sealant (if required), rags, brake cleaner
- Jack stands or heavy-duty axle stands and wheel chocks
- PPE: safety glasses, gloves, steel‑toe boots
- Replacement parts: clutch release (throw‑out) bearing (OEM Hino part), retaining clip/circlip if used, input shaft pilot bearing/bush (if worn), transmission input shaft seal (inspect & replace if leaking), possibly clutch disc & pressure plate if worn, new bellhousing/transmission mounting bolts if single‑use per manual.

Safety & preparatory precautions
- Work on a flat, level surface rated for the vehicle weight. Chock rear wheels and apply parking brake.
- Disconnect negative battery terminal to avoid accidental cranking.
- Use rated jacks/stands for the vehicle. Never rely on a hydraulic jack alone.
- Support the engine with an engine support bar or hoist before removing transmission support. Ensure transmission is supported by a transmission jack.
- Relieve hydraulic system pressure and cap lines to avoid contamination; collect any leaked fluids.
- Keep clutch friction surfaces clean and free of oil/grease.
- Follow vehicle manufacturer manual for torque specs, sequences, and any special tools.

Step‑by‑step replacement procedure
1) Preparation
- Park, chock, disconnect battery, set PPE.
- Remove battery(s) and battery tray if they obstruct transmission removal.

2) Remove driveline & ancillary components
- Remove driveshaft(s)/prop shaft: mark alignment for reinstallation, remove U‑bolt or flange bolts.
- Remove gearshift linkage/shift tower from transmission; disconnect linkage and sensors.
- Disconnect electrical connectors, speed sensors, reverse light switch.
- Remove air lines, vacuum lines, vent hoses attached to gearbox or bell housing area.
- Remove any exhaust, crossmembers, heat shields, or air reservoirs blocking access. Support components you remove.

3) Isolate hydraulic components
- If truck uses external slave cylinder: disconnect hydraulic line at slave cylinder, plug/plug ports to prevent contamination. Remove slave cylinder from bellhousing or support it out of the way (do not let it hang by hose).
- If concentric slave (CSM) or internal, follow manual — CSM replacement may differ.

4) Support engine & transmission
- Position a transmission jack under gearbox, secure it with straps.
- Support the engine with hoist or support bar to prevent tilt when transmission is removed.
- Remove transmission crossmember(s) and mount bolts.

5) Unbolt transmission from engine
- Loosen and remove bellhousing-to-engine bolts in a crisscross pattern. Keep track of bolt lengths/locations.
- Carefully slide transmission rearward using transmission jack until input shaft clears clutch assembly. Keep alignment square; do not force.

6) Expose clutch & remove release bearing
- With bellhousing open, inspect clutch assembly.
- Locate release bearing and fork. Note orientation and retaining method (circlip, retainer, sliding sleeve).
- If held by a retaining/circlip: use snap‑ring pliers to remove clip and slide bearing off fork or shaft.
- If bearing rides on a rail or sleeve, slide bearing assembly off the rail/guide. Remove any retaining bolts or shims.
- Inspect release fork for wear at pivot points and bushing. Replace if distorted.

7) Inspect related components
- Inspect clutch disc spline and pressure plate surface. If glazing, uneven wear, cracks, or excessive wear found, plan to replace clutch set.
- Inspect pilot bearing/bushing in crankshaft pilot; remove and replace if rough or worn.
- Check transmission input shaft splines for scoring or wear. Clean and lightly coat splines with very small amount of high‑temp grease to ease installation — do not grease clutch friction surfaces.
- Inspect bell housing and input shaft seal — replace seal if leaking.

8) Install new release bearing
- Confirm new bearing matches OEM part and orientation. On most Hino setups, the bearing face must point toward the pressure plate/diaphragm spring.
- If bearing uses lubrication on the sliding surface: apply a light film of high‑temp moly grease to the guide sleeve only (never on contact face or rolling surfaces).
- Install any new retaining clip or spring washer as per original location. Ensure clip seats fully in groove.
- Reassemble release fork to bearing and check free movement and proper engagement with slave cylinder pushrod or actuation mechanism.

9) Reassemble transmission to engine
- If clutch was disturbed, use clutch alignment tool to center the disc on the flywheel before sliding the transmission back on. The tool keeps the disc centered while you line up the input shaft.
- Raise and align transmission on the jack, guiding input shaft onto the aligned disc splines. Do not force; if it won’t slide, verify alignment and that pressure plate bolts are loosened if used.
- Once fully seated, install and hand‑thread bellhousing bolts, then torque in the sequence specified by Hino to correct torque values.
- Reinstall transmission mounts and crossmembers; torque to spec.

10) Reconnect components & bleed system
- Reconnect slave cylinder/hydraulic lines. Replace any copper crush washers if used.
- Reinstall driveshafts/prop shafts and secure bolts to torque spec.
- Reconnect electrical connectors and linkages. Adjust clutch free play per manual.
- Refill and bleed clutch hydraulic system (if hydraulic) until firm pedal — follow bleed procedure (gravity, vacuum, or two‑person pump and hold method).
- Reinstall battery(s).

11) Final checks & road test
- Verify no fluid leaks around slave cylinder, input seal, or lines.
- Check clutch engagement and release at low speed before full load. Listen for abnormal noises or binding.
- After initial test drive, re‑check all fasteners and re‑torque if required.

How specific tools are used (details)
- Transmission jack: center the transmission on the jack saddle and secure with straps. Use the jack to raise/lower and tilt the gearbox to align input shaft with clutch; small lateral adjustments are normal. Never let the gearbox hang unsupported.
- Clutch alignment tool: insert through clutch disc splines into pilot bore to center the disc. Hold it while sliding transmission on; it prevents disc walking and misalignment.
- Snap‑ring pliers: expand/compress the circlip carefully to avoid losing the clip into bellhousing. Ensure clip seats fully in groove.
- Bearing puller/pilot puller: use if pilot bearing/bushing is stuck. Pull straight to avoid damaging crankshaft bore.
- Torque wrench: tighten bellhousing and mount bolts in the correct sequence to specified torque values. Use calibrated wrench and appropriate socket.

Common pitfalls & how to avoid them
- Not supporting the engine: can cause engine to tilt and damage mounts or cause injury. Always support engine before removing transmission mounts.
- Contaminating clutch faces: grease/oil on clutch/pressure plate/disc causes slippage and immediate failure. Keep rags and cleaner handy and never apply grease to friction surfaces.
- Incorrect bearing orientation or wrong part: fit the bearing in the same orientation as removed and confirm OEM part number — wrong bearing will fail quickly.
- Failing to replace worn pilot bearing or input seal: leads to premature bearing failure and oil contamination of clutch.
- Forcing the transmission on: misalignment can damage splines/pilot and make bolts cross‑thread; use alignment tool and adjust transmission tilt with jack.
- Forgetting to bleed hydraulic system or incorrect bleeding: leads to a spongy pedal and incomplete disengagement.
- Re‑using single‑use bolts or not torquing bolts to spec: can lead to loosening or breakage under load. Replace single‑use fasteners and follow torque specs exactly.
- Over‑greasing sliding surfaces: causes grease to be thrown onto clutch disc — use minimal, specific lubrication only where specified.

Replacement parts checklist (minimum)
- OEM clutch release (throw‑out) bearing assembly
- Retaining clip/circlip or associated fasteners
- Pilot bearing/bushing (recommended to replace if access is open)
- Transmission input seal (if leaking or removed)
- Clutch disc & pressure plate if wear is near service limit
- Hydraulic hoses/fittings or slave cylinder (if leaking or old)
- Mounting bolts (if single‑use or damaged)

Final note
Follow the Hino 700 Series workshop manual for model‑specific variations, torque values, and any special Hino service tools required. Failure to use correct torque/spec procedures can result in component failure or unsafe conditions.
rteeqp73