- Safety first — mandatory precautions
- Wear safety glasses, heavy mechanic gloves, and hearing protection; use a respirator if cutting or grinding.
- Work on level ground with the parking brake on and wheels chocked.
- Allow the exhaust to cool completely before touching; diesel exhaust components stay hot for a long time.
- Disconnect the negative battery terminal or follow the vehicle’s safety isolation procedure to prevent fans/relays starting.
- If you don’t have a heavy-duty vehicle hoist or rated axle stands for a large truck, get access to a commercial lift or have the work done by a shop — the Hino 700 is heavy and high off the ground; inadequate supports are a fatal risk.

- Tools (each tool named and explained, how to use it)
- Socket set (6–32 mm metric sizes, deep and shallow sockets)
- Use to remove nuts/bolts on clamps, flanges, hangers. Pick the correct socket to avoid rounding fasteners. Use hand ratchet for controlled loosening.
- Ratchet wrench and extensions
- Use with sockets to reach bolts in tight spaces. Extensions help access recessed flange bolts.
- Combination wrench set (open + box end)
- For bolts where a socket won’t fit. Box end gives better grip; open end good for quick turns.
- Breaker bar (long-handled)
- Provides leverage to break loose seized or rusted nuts. Apply steady force; don’t use cheater pipes that can slip.
- Torque wrench (click-type, appropriate range for truck fasteners)
- Required to tighten bolts to specified torque per the workshop manual. Set the wrench, tighten until it clicks, then stop.
- Impact wrench (pneumatic or cordless)
- Speeds removal of stubborn nuts; use sockets rated for impacts. Don’t use to final-tighten precision fasteners — finish with torque wrench.
- Penetrating oil (e.g., PB Blaster, WD-40 Specialist)
- Spray on rusted fasteners and let soak (10–30 minutes) to free corroded bolts. Reapply as needed.
- Hammer and soft-faced mallet
- Use to persuade stuck joints or drop hangers free; soft mallet avoids damaging metal.
- Pry bar / crowbar
- Helps separate flanged joints and pry rubber hangers off mounts.
- Exhaust hanger removal tool (rubber hanger tool)
- Makes removing rubber isolators easy without damage; hook and lever them off hangers.
- Wire brush and wire wheel
- Clean mating surfaces and rust around flanges before reassembly; wire wheel on drill works well.
- Reciprocating saw with metal-cutting blade or angle grinder with cutting disc
- Required if exhaust sections are welded or bolts are irretrievable. Cut carefully with appropriate PPE and fire prevention measures.
- Welding equipment (MIG/TIG with proper filler) — only if welding connections are needed
- Required if the muffler or pipe sections are welded in place or you want a welded exhaust repair. Welding on exhaust requires skill to avoid leaks and weak joints.
- Exhaust clamps and U-bolts (appropriate heavy-duty truck size)
- To join pipes where flanges are not used or to replace corroded clamps.
- Replacement gaskets (exhaust flange gasket) and new flange bolts/nuts
- Always replace gaskets and corroded fasteners to ensure a gas-tight seal.
- Anti-seize compound
- Apply to new bolts/threads to ease future removal.
- Mechanic’s creeper or sturdy ladder/platform
- Helps you get under/around the cab safely.
- Hydraulic jack and heavy-duty axle stands or lift rated for truck weight
- If no lift available, use certified stands rated for the axle load. Never rely on a jack alone.
- Flashlight or work lamp
- Proper light to see fasteners and sensors.

- Why extra/power tools may be required
- Impact wrench and breaker bar: exhaust fasteners on trucks are heavily torqued and/or corroded — these give you the leverage or impact to break them free.
- Reciprocating saw / grinder: many exhaust systems are rust-welded or have seized bolts; cutting may be the only way to separate components.
- Welding gear: if the muffler is welded into the system or you want a permanent repair rather than clamped joints.
- Lift or heavy-duty stands: Hino 700 is large; small car jacks are unsafe. Proper support is required for safety and access.

- Parts likely to require replacement and why
- Muffler (silencer) assembly
- Reason: perforation, internal baffle collapse, severe corrosion, excessive noise, or exhaust leaks. Replace if holes, internal failure, or irreparable damage.
- What to get: OEM muffler for Hino 700 matching VIN/engine code, or high-quality aftermarket equivalent sized for the exhaust routing.
- Exhaust flange gaskets
- Reason: old gaskets crush/erode and cause leaks. Always replace when disassembling flanged joints.
- Flange bolts, studs, nuts and clamps
- Reason: often corroded; replacing prevents breakage during reassembly and ensures proper clamping force.
- Rubber hanger isolators
- Reason: age and heat degrade rubber; broken hangers let the muffler sag and stress joints.
- Exhaust pipe sections or connectors
- Reason: adjacent piping may be damaged or too corroded to seal; replace matching lengths or use repair sections.
- Heat shields or brackets
- Reason: damaged shields can rattle or allow heat damage to nearby components; replace if warped or missing.
- Sensors (if fitted near the muffler: O2, exhaust temp, NOx)
- Reason: sensors can be damaged during removal or corroded. Replace with OEM-specified sensors if faulty.
- DPF or catalytic components (only if damaged)
- Reason: these are emissions components; serious damage or illegal tampering is not acceptable. Replace if physically damaged — consult dealer for correct parts.

- Procedure overview (safe, workshop-style steps)
- Preparation
- Secure vehicle: chock wheels, engage parking brake, isolate battery.
- Raise vehicle on a lift or use heavy-duty jacks and stands rated for the truck axle.
- Let exhaust cool fully and shine a light to locate muffler, flanges, clamps, hangers, and any sensors.
- Penetration and freeing of fasteners
- Spray penetrating oil on all accessible bolts/nuts and let soak.
- Remove sensors first (use appropriate socket and cap on connector to avoid damage), cap sensor holes to prevent debris.
- Use breaker bar / impact wrench to break bolts loose; use extensions and locking pliers as required.
- If bolts are seized beyond saving, cut the bolt or pipe using a reciprocating saw or grinder. Protect surrounding components and use fire prevention (wet rags, fire extinguisher).
- Removing the muffler
- Support the muffler with a transmission jack, floor jack with dolly, or have an assistant hold it.
- Remove flange nuts or clamps while supporting the unit; lower it slowly out of the rubber hangers.
- Use the exhaust hanger removal tool or pry bar to remove isolators.
- Withdraw the muffler assembly carefully; watch for sharp edges and residual soot.
- Inspect and prepare mating surfaces
- Clean flange faces with a wire brush. Replace any damaged flange faces or pipe ends if necessary.
- Check adjacent pipe for dents, corrosion, or ovalization; plan to replace short sections if sealing will be impossible.
- Fitment of new parts
- Dry-fit the new muffler and gaskets, align to hangers and flanges. Ensure proper clearance to chassis, fuel lines, and wiring.
- Use new gaskets at flanges and new nuts/bolts/clamps. Hand-tighten first to allow final alignment.
- Apply anti-seize to threads of the new hardware.
- Torque flange bolts to manufacturer specs — look these up in the Hino 700 workshop manual and use a torque wrench.
- If using clamps, tighten evenly and progressively to compress gasket evenly.
- Replace rubber hangers and ensure the muffler sits with correct pitch and no stress on joints.
- Welding (only if required and only if competent)
- If welding pipe/muffler joints, tack-weld in several points, inspect alignment, then complete full welds. Grind and check for porosity. Welding should be gas-tight and done by a competent welder.
- Final checks and test
- Reconnect sensors and battery negative terminal.
- Lower vehicle off stands safely.
- Start engine and listen for leaks. Carefully inspect joints for escaping gases (use soapy water to spot bubbles on clamps if necessary).
- Road test at low speed then moderate load; recheck for rattles, heat clearance, and leaks after cool-down.

- Troubleshooting common issues
- Persistent leak at a flange
- Re-tighten to torque spec, replace gasket if compressed unevenly, or replace corroded flange faces.
- Rattle or contact
- Reposition and replace worn hangers; add heat-resistant rubber isolators or add strap supports.
- Fastener breakage during removal
- Drill and extract studs if possible, or cut and replace the stud/piece of pipe section; replace hardware with new studs/bolts.

- Parts sourcing and references
- Obtain the correct muffler/part numbers from your VIN, engine code, or a Hino dealer parts catalog — Hino 700 has multiple configurations (cab size, engine, SCR/DPF layout).
- Use OEM or high-quality aftermarket parts rated for commercial trucks; cheap small-car exhaust parts will not last.
- If emissions components (DPF, catalytic converter, NOx sensors) are involved, follow local laws and Hino guidelines — many regions restrict tampering.

- Final safety and legal notes
- Do not remove or disable emissions equipment illegally; many jurisdictions impose fines.
- Welding or cutting near fuel tanks, wiring, or rubber lines requires removing or shielding those components.
- If you lack a lift, heavy-duty stands, or experience with cutting/welding, have the job done in a commercial truck workshop.

- Quick checklist to take to the parts store or shop
- Vehicle VIN and engine model
- Muffler assembly part number (if known) or picture of current setup
- Quantity and size of flange bolts, gaskets, clamps, and rubber hangers
- Any sensor part numbers removed

- Final practical tip
- Take photos of the original setup before disassembly to aid correct reassembly.

(End of instructions — follow the Hino 700 workshop manual and safety rules strictly; if you are unsure or lack proper equipment, use a certified truck workshop.)
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