- Safety first
- Wear safety glasses, heavy-duty gloves, steel-toe boots and hearing protection when using power tools.
- Work on a flat level surface, use wheel chocks and manual/transmission supports. Never rely on a hydraulic jack alone — always use jack stands rated for the truck.
- Disconnect the battery before doing any electrical or starter/transmission work.
- Use proper lifting equipment (transmission jack or vehicle lift). A falling transmission can kill or maim.

- What “basic tools” typically are (detailed descriptions and how to use them)
- Combination wrench set (open end + box end)
- Used for loosening/tightening nuts and bolts where sockets cannot reach.
- Use the box end on stubborn fasteners to avoid rounding; pull the wrench toward you rather than pushing.
- Socket set with ratchet (metric and SAE to cover truck fasteners)
- Ratchet + appropriate socket sizes used for the majority of bolts (bellhousing, crossmembers, driveshaft).
- Use breaker bar for initial high-torque bolts, then ratchet for speed. Keep extensions and universal joints to reach awkward angles.
- Breaker bar
- Long non-ratcheting bar for applying high torque to loosen rusted or tight bolts.
- Use slow steady force; avoid sudden impacts that can snap bolts.
- Torque wrench (click-type or digital)
- Required to tighten bolts to specific service values (critical on bellhousing, flywheel, axle and mount bolts).
- Set the required torque, tighten smoothly to the click. Always calibrate/verify periodically.
- Screwdriver set (flat and Phillips)
- For clamps, sensors, covers and small fasteners. Use correct tip size to avoid stripping screws.
- Pliers: slip-joint, needle-nose, locking (vice) pliers
- Pull clips, hold parts, remove cotter pins. Locking pliers can clamp at set pressure.
- Hammer and rubber mallet
- Hammer for stubborn parts, rubber mallet for persuasion without damage.
- Pry bars (small and large)
- For separating mating surfaces, gently prying shift linkage and bellhousing. Use carefully to avoid chipping machined surfaces.
- Drain pan and funnels
- Collect used transmission oil and prevent spills.
- Wire brush and rag shop towels
- Clean mating surfaces and remove dirt/grime before disassembly and reassembly.
- Seal puller and gasket scraper
- Remove old seals and gaskets without damaging housings.
- Feeler gauges and straight edge
- Measure shaft end-play, gear backlash and flatness checks during inspection.
- Flashlight / inspection lamp
- Illuminate cavity and bolt areas.

- Recommended extra/specialized tools (why required and how to use)
- Transmission jack or heavy-duty floor jack with adapter
- Required to safely remove/hold the transmission during separation and reinstallation. Place transmission on jack, secure with chains or strap, raise/lower smoothly.
- Engine support bar or engine hoist (if transmission removal requires partial engine support)
- Supports engine when removing crossmember or mounts. Attach to appropriate lift points, balance load before removing fasteners.
- Impact wrench (air or electric)
- Speeds removal of high-torque bolts. Use with care; finish critical bolts with a torque wrench to the correct spec.
- Hydraulic press (or shop with press)
- Needed to remove/press bearings, seals, and bushings. Apply steady force through appropriate adapters; never pry bearings off — press them.
- Bearing puller / gear puller
- Extract bearings, gears, splined collars. Center puller and slow steady turning removes parts cleanly.
- Snap-ring (circlip) pliers (internal and external)
- Remove/install circlips inside transmission; missing correct pliers can break rings or harm components.
- Seal driver kit / drift set
- Install new seals squarely without damage. Tap evenly with mallet/drift until seated.
- Dial indicator with magnetic base
- Measure endplay and runout; critical to prevent premature failure. Mount base, contact tip on target, zero and measure.
- Micrometer / calipers
- Measure shaft diameters, gear wear, thicknesses vs. service limits in manual.
- Transmission fluid pump
- For filling large-volume transmissions and avoiding spills.
- Service manual (model-specific Hino 700 workshop manual)
- Contains torque specs, sequences, clearances, exploded diagrams and special tool lists; mandatory for correct repair.
- Parts cleaning cabinet or solvent tank (or parts washer)
- Clean gears and bearings before inspection and reassembly. Use appropriate solvent and PPE.

- Quick diagnosis checklist (what to check first)
- Fluid level and condition
- Low or burnt, metallic-smelling fluid suggests internal wear or overheating.
- External leaks
- Look for seal and gasket leaks at output shaft, input shaft, case seams, cooler lines.
- Noise and symptoms while driving
- Grinding while shifting suggests synchros or clutch; whining at all speeds suggests bearing or gear wear; slipping suggests clutch (manual) or internal damage (automatic).
- Shift feel and linkage
- Hard shifts or inability to select gears may be linkage, selector forks, or internal damage.
- Check for metal particles in drain plug/magnet
- Heavy metal indicates gear/bearing failure — requires teardown.

- Basic transmission service (starter tasks you can do as a beginner with basic tools)
- Fluid and filter change
- Use drain pan, remove drain plug or pan, inspect fluid and magnet; replace filter (if external or accessible), clean magnet and pan, replace pan gasket or sealant as required, refill with correct spec fluid using pump, check level per manual.
- Why it helps: removes contaminants, can solve minor shift problems and extend life.
- Replace external seals (input/output seals) and gasket
- Use seal puller to remove old seals and seal driver kit to install new ones; replace simple leaks without opening transmission.
- Why: leaks cause low fluid level and contamination.
- Inspect and adjust shift linkage/cables
- Tighten/adjust per manual; sometimes shift issues are external.

- When you will need to remove and open the transmission (advanced; likely need extra tools and help)
- Indications to remove:
- Significant metal shavings or chunks in fluid
- Major noises from inside the gearbox (grinding, howling)
- Complete loss of drive or gears popping out under load
- Faults indicated by detailed diagnostics or examination
- Why removal is complex:
- Heavy components, alignment critical, many connectors, and precise torque and clearances needed.
- How to remove (overview, follow service manual for exact sequence and torque)
- Disconnect battery and drains.
- Support engine as required.
- Remove driveshaft/propshaft, PTOs, starter motor, exhaust interference and crossmember.
- Support transmission with transmission jack, remove bellhousing bolts, slide transmission back off input shaft.
- Lower transmission slowly. Keep track of dowels, shims and alignment parts.

- Opening the case and inspection (steps and what to look for)
- Clean exterior and drain all fluid first.
- Split case using appropriate safe supports to avoid dropping heavy halves.
- Inspect gears, synchros, bearings, shafts, selector forks, housings for:
- Scoring, pitting, heat discoloration (blueing), excessive wear, chipped teeth.
- Worn or damaged synchro rings (causes grinding), worn bearings (noise/whine), broken shift forks (can't select/hold gear).
- Warped or damaged covers or mating surfaces (leaks or misalignment).
- Measure clearances:
- Use dial indicator for shaft endplay and gear backlash. Use calipers/micrometer for journal diameters and gear thickness vs. manual limits.
- Clean all parts in solvent and air dry. Inspect closely for hairline cracks and fatigue.

- Common parts that often require replacement and why
- Gaskets, seals and O-rings
- Cause: age, heat, vibration. Replace whenever the case is opened or leaks are present.
- Bearings (input, output, cluster, main)
- Cause: wear, contamination, improper lubrication. Replace if noisy, rough or outside tolerance; do not reuse.
- Synchro rings and dog teeth
- Cause: normal wear or abuse. Replace if worn, chipped, or if shifting is rough/grinding.
- Gears (worn/chipped teeth)
- Cause: heavy loads, contamination, bearing failure. Replace if gear teeth are chipped, pitted, or worn beyond manual spec.
- Shafts (input, counter, output) / splines
- Cause: severe wear, scoring, or bent shafts. Replace if worn beyond limit or damaged.
- Shift forks and bushings
- Cause: wear and deformation; fork misalignment causes poor gear engagement. Replace worn forks and bushings.
- Pilot bearing / release bearing (manual clutch)
- Cause: wear/heat. Replace whenever clutch is replaced.
- Clutch friction disc, pressure plate (manual)
- Cause: slipping, contamination, wear. Replace if worn, glazed or contaminated with oil.
- Transmission mounts and crossmember bushings
- Cause: deterioration causes misalignment and vibration. Replace if cracked or collapsed.
- Seal kits and gasket kits (complete)
- Always use when reassembling to prevent leaks.

- Why parts must be replaced rather than repaired
- Bearings and gears are precision parts; once raceways or teeth are scored/flattened they will fail quickly if reused.
- Synchros and friction surfaces cannot be reconditioned reliably in-home; replacing restores proper clearance and function.
- Replacing worn parts prevents cascading damage to new components.

- Reassembly highlights and critical checks
- Clean mating surfaces, use new gaskets and seals.
- Apply correct lubricants and assembly grease to bearings and friction parts as prescribed.
- Install bearings/seals with appropriate drivers to ensure square fit; press where needed.
- Torque all bolts to manufacturer torque specs using a torque wrench; critical for bellhousing, flywheel and mount bolts.
- Check runout and endplay with dial indicator against service limits.
- Reinstall transmission aligning input spline to clutch/flywheel (or torque converter if automatic) — improper alignment can ruin splines or cause vibration.
- Reconnect linkages and test gear selection by hand before starting engine.
- Refill with correct transmission fluid to the correct level; run through gear selection cycles (for automatics) or gently test drive for manuals.

- Testing after repair
- With vehicle supported, run engine and check for leaks and proper engagement in all gears.
- Road test under light load first: check for noise, slipping, proper shift timing and temperature rise.
- Re-check torque on critical bolts after first test drive (some bolts may need retorque).

- When to get professional help or send to a transmission shop
- If you lack a transmission jack, press, pullers, dial indicator or service manual.
- If inspection reveals pitted gears, badly worn bearings, bent shafts, or heavy metal contamination — these require shop-level tools and experience.
- If you are not able to measure and set clearances and torque precisely — mistakes will cause rapid failure.
- Consider a transmission shop for a complete rebuild or remanufactured unit which often comes with warranty and guaranteed clearances.

- Practical tips and parts procurement
- Buy OEM or OEM-equivalent parts and full gasket/seal kits specific to Hino 700; generic parts can fit poorly.
- Always replace wear items in matched sets (bearings, seals, syncros) when opening the case.
- Keep cleanliness paramount — contamination kills transmissions quickly.
- Keep a parts list and photo record during disassembly to ensure correct reassembly.

- Final blunt summary
- Start with fluid/filter change and external seal fixes if you’re a beginner.
- For internal problems (metal, grinding, lost gears) you must remove and open the transmission — this requires special tools, precise measurement and replacement of bearings, synchros, seals and possibly gears/shafts.
- If you lack a transmission jack, press, pullers, dial indicator and the Hino workshop manual, take the unit to a professional.

- Safety reminder (no yapping)
- This is heavy, hazardous work. Use proper lifting equipment, follow torque specs, and if unsure, pay a professional.
rteeqp73

How To Do Daily Inspections - Hino 700 Series Do you need help with the daily inspection of your Hino 700 Series truck? Watch this Prestige Hino video to how to do a Hino 700 ...

Hino 700 Series Heavy Duty Truck Review Sydney Australia - FY3248 AMT Twin Steer 8x4 Cab First look at the Hino 700 series, a very nice looking cabin which will be a strong contender in the heavy duty truck market.

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Short theory first (what a clutch does and how failures occur)
- Purpose: transfer engine torque to the gearbox when engaged; allow temporary disengagement for shifting/idle. A dry single-plate clutch uses a friction disc sandwiched between flywheel and pressure plate. The pressure plate’s diaphragm spring clamps the disc to the flywheel; when the release bearing pushes the diaphragm, clamp force is released and the disc can spin independently.
- Key parts and failure modes:
- Friction disc: wears thin -> slipping under load; contamination (oil) -> slip/chatter.
- Pressure plate/diaphragm: weakened spring or hot spots -> reduced clamp load -> slipping or uneven engagement.
- Flywheel: warped or scored -> chatter/vibration and uneven contact; glazed surface -> slip.
- Release (throw-out) bearing or release mechanism: noisy, sticking, or not fully releasing -> dragging/poor disengagement.
- Pilot bearing/bushing and spline: worn -> misalignment, vibration.
- Linkage/hydraulic system: poor actuation or incorrect free play -> incomplete disengagement.

Ordered replacement procedure with theory at each step
1) Preparation and diagnosis (why)
- Verify symptom (slip, drag, noise). Confirm clutch fault vs. gearbox or hydraulics. This directs whether a full clutch replacement is needed.
- Safety: park, chock wheels, disconnect battery, support vehicle on stands. Use appropriate lifting gear — transmission is heavy.

2) Drain/secure and remove ancillaries (why)
- Remove battery, battery tray, air lines, wiring, intake/exhaust items obstructing gearbox removal. Remove prop shafts and PTO drives.
- Theory: clear access to gearbox and bellhousing; prevents damage to attachments.

3) Support engine and transmission; separate driveline components (why)
- Support engine/transmission with hoists or stands; remove starter motor, transmission linkages, speed sensor wiring, hydraulic lines (label/cap), and any crossmembers.
- Theory: prevent weight transfer to components; disconnect drive path so gearbox can be separated without forcing other parts.

4) Remove gearbox from bellhousing (why)
- Unbolt bellhousing bolts, lower transmission straight back on a transmission jack.
- Theory: separation exposes clutch assembly; correct, straight removal prevents misalignment and damage to input shaft.

5) Remove clutch assembly (why)
- Unbolt pressure plate evenly in a criss-cross pattern, remove pressure plate and friction disc. Inspect components visually and measure.
- Theory: releasing pressure plate removes clamping force; even unbolting prevents distorting the plate. Removal allows inspection and replacement of wear parts.

6) Inspect and measure flywheel and related parts (why)
- Check flywheel for heat cracks, scoring, runout, and surface finish. Measure thickness and runout to workshop limits. Inspect pilot bearing/bushing, rear main seal, and input shaft splines.
- Theory: flywheel condition determines engagement surface quality. Warped or scored flywheel causes vibration/chatter even with a new disc; contamination or worn pilot bearing causes misalignment and premature wear.

7) Decide repair action (why)
- If flywheel within spec and surface OK: resurface (machining) is acceptable. If cracks, excessive wear, or below minimum thickness: replace.
- Replace friction disc and pressure plate as a matched set. Replace release bearing and any worn fork or hydraulic parts. Replace pilot bearing if worn. Replace rear main seal if leaking.
- Theory: matched components restore correct friction characteristics, clamp load, and geometry. Replacing bearings and seals prevents recurring failure and contamination of the new disc.

8) Clean and prep mating surfaces (why)
- Clean flywheel and pressure-plate faces, remove grease/oil, clean bellhousing. Do not touch friction surfaces with bare hands. Lightly oil input shaft splines then wipe off excess.
- Theory: contamination causes slip and glazing; correct lubrication on splines prevents disc binding while avoiding excess oil that contaminates the disc.

9) Install pilot bearing and reseal (why)
- Fit new pilot bearing/bushing to spec; install new rear main seal if removed.
- Theory: correct pilot support centers the gearbox input shaft and clutch disc; worn pilot bearing causes runout and vibration.

10) Fit clutch disc and pressure plate (why)
- Use an alignment tool to center the friction disc on the flywheel; fit pressure plate and torque bolts in a criss-cross sequence to specified torque.
- Theory: centering ensures the gearbox input shaft will slide easily into the disc splines and align the transmission; even torque ensures even clamp load and avoids warping the pressure plate.

11) Refit release bearing and fork/linkage (why)
- Install new release bearing and ensure correct orientation and lubrication at contact points only as specified. Reinstall fork or hydraulic release assembly; check travel and free play.
- Theory: a new bearing prevents noise and binding; correct installation ensures full release/travel to disengage the diaphragm spring.

12) Reinstall gearbox and reassemble driveline (why)
- Mate transmission to engine properly (input shaft into disc, pilot bearing); tighten bellhousing bolts to spec; reconnect linkages, sensors, hydraulics, starter, propshafts, etc.
- Theory: correct mating and torque maintain alignment and transfer load without introducing stress that could affect clutch or gearbox.

13) Bleed hydraulic system or adjust cable/linkage and check free play (why)
- If hydraulic, bleed air until pedal feel is firm and travel meets spec. If cable/mechanical, set clutch pedal free play to spec.
- Theory: correct actuation ensures full engagement/disengagement. Air or misadjustment causes dragging or slipping despite new friction parts.

14) Initial checks, torque recheck, and road test (why)
- With vehicle supported, run engine and cycle clutch to confirm engagement/release, check for leaks/noise. Re-torque accessible fasteners after a short run per manual. Perform controlled road test to bed the clutch.
- Theory: bedding-in allows friction surfaces to mate properly for consistent bite. Re-torque accommodates bolt settling and thermal changes.

How the repair fixes the faults (concise)
- Slipping under load: new disc friction material + resurfaced or new flywheel + restored clamp load from new pressure plate restores necessary friction coefficient and clamp force to transmit torque.
- Chatter/vibration: resurfaced or replaced flywheel removes uneven contact; replacing worn disc and pilot bearing reduces runout and misalignment that cause vibration.
- Dragging or poor disengagement: new release bearing/fork and properly bled/adjusted hydraulics eliminate sticking or insufficient travel; replacing a weak diaphragm spring restores release characteristics.
- Noise from release area: new bearing eliminates bearing noise and wear-related rattle.
- Recurring contamination/leakage: replacing rear main seal and cleaning prevents oil contamination of new friction material.

Quick inspection criteria (limits to look for)
- Friction disc thickness: replace if at or below minimum spec from manual.
- Flywheel runout: measure with dial indicator; replace or resurface if beyond spec or if hot spots/cracks present.
- Pressure plate surface: check for heat spots/cracks; replace if compromised.
- Input shaft splines: not rounded; rotate freely into disc.
- Pilot bearing play/noise: replace if any roughness.

Final notes (brief)
- Always use the vehicle workshop manual for Hino 700 specific torque values, sequence, and dimensional limits. Use the correct clutch kit matched to the Hino model. Heavy components require proper lifting/support; follow safety procedures.
rteeqp73