- Safety and prerequisites (read this first)
- Wear eye protection, gloves, steel-toe boots, and hearing protection as needed.
- Work on a level surface with the vehicle securely chocked and parking brake set.
- Disconnect battery negative terminal before starting.
- Have the Hino 700 workshop manual for the exact engine model on hand (torque specs, bolt sequences, timing marks, and special-tool part numbers are engine-specific). Do not attempt to guess torque values or bolt reuse rules.
- Allow the engine to cool fully before removing coolant or head components.

- Essential consumable parts to have before starting
- OEM head gasket(s) specific to your Hino 700 engine (do not reuse a head gasket).
- New head bolts / studs if manual specifies replacement (many head bolts are torque-to-yield and must be replaced).
- Valve cover gasket, intake and exhaust manifold gaskets, thermostat, coolant hoses (as required), engine oil and oil filter, coolant.
- Thread-lock or anti-seize only if the manual specifies for specific fasteners.
- Rags, gasket scraper gasket remover solvent, and brake cleaner or parts cleaner.

- Common extra parts that are often required after inspection and why
- Replacement head (or machining) if the head is cracked or warped beyond spec — warpage causes sealing failure even with a new gasket.
- Head bolt set — many engines use torque-to-yield bolts that stretch and must be replaced.
- Valve seals, valve guides or seats if there is burning, excessive oil consumption, or valve damage found during inspection.
- Camshaft bearings, cam lobes or rocker components if scoring or wear is found when removing the valvetrain.
- Injector O-rings and injector cups if disturbed — fuel leaks or compression leaks can result.
- Timing belt/chain, tensioner, sprockets if timing components show wear — removal exposes these parts and replacement prevents failure.
- Water pump and thermostat commonly replaced while coolant system is open.
- Exhaust manifold bolts/studs are often corroded and may need replacement.

- Tools you will need and detailed description of each plus how to use them (beginner-friendly)
- Workshop manual (paper or PDF)
- Description: Factory manual with engine diagrams, torque specs, sequences, and special-tool part numbers.
- Use: Follow all specified torques, sequences, clearances, and procedures exactly.

- Assorted metric sockets (deep and shallow), 1/2" and 3/8" drive ratchets and extensions
- Description: Standard sockets for removing nuts and bolts. Deep sockets for long studs, shallow for snug spaces.
- Use: Select correct-size socket, fit it fully on the fastener, pull straight to avoid rounding. Use extensions to reach recessed bolts.

- Torque wrench (appropriate range for head bolts) and torque-angle gauge (if required)
- Description: Torque wrench applies a specific torque; torque-angle gauge measures additional degrees of rotation if bolts require angle tightening.
- Use: Calibrate or verify it's in working order. Set specified torque and tighten in prescribed sequence. If procedure calls for torque-plus-angle, do the first torque pass(s) then use the angle gauge to rotate each bolt the specified degrees. Never re-use torque-to-yield bolts unless manual allows.

- Breaker bar
- Description: Long, non-ratcheting bar for breaking loose very tight bolts.
- Use: Apply steady, controlled pressure. If bolt resists, use penetrating oil and tap the head lightly; do not jerk or use cheater pipes that may break the tool or bolt.

- Impact wrench / air or electric (optional but speeds work)
- Description: Power tool to remove fasteners quickly.
- Use: Great for stubborn bolts but avoid final tightening or precision work with impacts. For sensitive bolts (head bolts), always use torque wrench for final torque. Use correct impact sockets.

- Engine hoist or crane and head lifting bracket or sling (for heavy heads)
- Description: A chain-hoist and head-lifting bracket or engine support is used to lift a heavy cylinder head safely.
- Use: Bolt the lifting bracket to the head per manual points, attach chain to hoist, lift vertically and move slowly. Never undersize the hoist capacity — check weight rating.

- Engine support bar or jack with wood block (if you cannot remove the head with an external hoist)
- Description: Supports engine/transmission while engine mounts are removed.
- Use: Place under engine oil pan with wooden block to distribute load. Lift only enough to relieve mounts.

- Screwdrivers (flat and Phillips) and pry bars
- Description: For removing small screws, clips and gently prying manifolds and covers.
- Use: Use the correct tip size to avoid rounding heads. Pry carefully to avoid damaging sealing surfaces.

- Gasket scraper (plastic and thin metal) and razor blades
- Description: For removing old gasket material from mating faces.
- Use: Use plastic scraper first to avoid gouges. For metal scrapers or razor, keep blade flat and work gently. Protect the surface and use solvent to remove residue.

- Straightedge and feeler gauges
- Description: Straightedge checks head and block deck flatness; feeler gauges measure the gap.
- Use: Lay straightedge across multiple axes; slide feeler gauge under any gap to measure. Compare to manual specs. If out of tolerance, the head needs machining or replacement.

- Dial indicator (optional) for checking valve lift or runout
- Description: Precision gauge for measuring small movement of parts.
- Use: Mount and probe camshaft or crank surfaces to check runout or lift per manual.

- Thread chaser or helicoil kit (if threads damaged)
- Description: Restores damaged threads in bolt holes.
- Use: Run the chaser carefully to clean threads; helicoil installs a new threaded insert when necessary. Follow instructions; do not cross-thread.

- Wire brushes and parts cleaner
- Description: Cleans surfaces and bolt holes.
- Use: Clean carbon and oil deposits; flush holes and passages with parts cleaner.

- Torque-sequence chart or magnetic sketch board to keep track of fasteners
- Description: Visual aid to tick off bolts removed.
- Use: Mark removed bolts and location of different-length fasteners.

- Marking paint or tags and zip-ties
- Description: Mark hoses and connectors to aid reassembly.
- Use: Label each hose, wire and pipe removed to avoid mistakes.

- Fuel line wrenches, injector puller, and injector cap tools (diesel-specific)
- Description: Tools made to remove fuel lines and injectors without damage.
- Use: Use a flare-nut wrench or injector socket to avoid rounding. Injector puller supports removal if stuck.

- Camshaft locking tool / crankshaft locking tool / timing alignment tools (engine-specific special tools)
- Description: Locks camshafts and crankshaft in correct positions so timing is preserved.
- Use: Fit the locking tools at specified points to fix timing before removing head; follow manual. These are critical — if not available, get them or have shop do it.

- Coolant drain pan and oil drain pan
- Description: Collect drained fluids.
- Use: Capture and dispose of fluids safely according to regulations.

- Hydraulic press or valve spring compressor (if doing valve work)
- Description: Compresses valve springs to remove retainers.
- Use: Use per tool instructions. Keep springs and retainers organized per cylinder.

- Sealant applicator and approved sealants (only where manual allows)
- Description: Forms a seal on specific surfaces where gasket isn't used.
- Use: Apply small, even bead per instructions. Do not over-apply; remove excess.

- Mechanic’s creeper and good lighting
- Description: Comfort and visibility.
- Use: Good access reduces mistakes.

- Step-by-step procedure (overview — follow the manual for torque values and sequences)
- Preparation
- Drain engine coolant and engine oil into proper containers.
- Remove air cleaner assembly and intake tubing to gain access.
- Label and disconnect electrical connectors, sensors, and grounds around the head.
- Relieve fuel system pressure, cap fuel lines, and disconnect fuel feed and return lines with catch container for fuel spill.
- Remove turbocharger/intercooler piping if it blocks access to the head or manifolds.
- Remove exhaust manifold and heat shields; keep studs and nuts organized.
- Remove intake manifold and supporting brackets, noting vacuum hoses and sensors.

- Remove valve cover, rocker assembly and timing covers
- Remove valve cover(s) and set aside.
- Mark camshaft/rocker positions if there are no locking tools available (still get the correct locking tools — marking is only a temporary aid).
- If necessary, remove rocker arms and pushrods carefully and label in their original positions.

- Set engine to TDC and lock timing
- Rotate engine to top dead center on cylinder 1 compression stroke and install cam/crank locking tools as per manual to prevent timing movement.
- Remove timing components only if required by the head removal procedure and label positions.

- Remove injectors, fuel rails, and related components obstructing head removal
- Remove injector lines and clamp brackets; use injector tools for removal. Organize injectors and seals by cylinder.

- Unbolt the head in the reverse order of the tightening sequence
- Loosen head bolts gradually in the precise reverse order recommended by the manual, usually in multiple passes from the outside inwards.
- Use breaker bar for stubborn bolts; apply penetrating oil and allow soak time.
- Remove head bolts and lift the cylinder head with an engine hoist using the approved lifting points and bracket.
- Set the head on a clean, protected stand or bench.

- Inspect and clean components
- Inspect head and block mating surfaces for warpage, cracks, and corrosion.
- Clean all gasket surfaces with plastic scraper and solvent; avoid gouging the machined surface.
- Clean bolt holes with thread chaser to remove debris and check for stripped threads.
- Use straightedge and feeler gauge to check head and block deck flatness. If out of tolerance per manual, the head must be machined or replaced.
- Inspect valves, seats, cam lobes, and bearings; replace damaged parts.

- Decision points: when replacement or machining is required (what to look for)
- Head warp or crack
- Why replacement/machining: Warped or cracked heads cannot seal reliably; machining restores flatness within spec or replacement is required if cracks exist or machining exceeds allowable removal.
- Replacement part: Reconditioned or new cylinder head; if machining, ensure within thickness limits.

- Head bolts
- Why replace: Torque-to-yield bolts stretch and lose clamping ability after initial use.
- Replacement part: OEM head bolt kit matching engine.

- Valve/seat damage or worn cam lobes
- Why replace: Bent/burned valves or worn cam lobes lead to loss of compression or valve timing problems.
- Replacement part: Valve set, seat replacements, valve-guide seals, camshaft if required.

- Injector leaks or damaged cups
- Why replace: Injector sealing failures cause compression or fuel leaks.
- Replacement part: Injector seals/o-rings, injector cups or injectors if damaged.

- Timing components worn
- Why replace: Timing belt/chain or tensioner failure can ruin engine.
- Replacement part: New timing belt/chain, tensioners, sprockets per interval or if wear found.

- Coolant and oil system parts
- Why replace: When disassembled, old hoses, water pump, thermostat and oil seals are easier to replace and help prevent future leaks.
- Replacement part: New hoses, water pump, thermostat, oil seals, oil and filter.

- Preparing and installing the new head gasket and head
- Clean block surface thoroughly and ensure dowels/locating pins are properly seated.
- Place the new head gasket(s) in the correct orientation — follow manual markings (top, front).
- Carefully position the head using a hoist and align with dowels; lower straight down to avoid damaging the gasket.
- Install head bolts finger-tight in their proper locations (use the correct bolts in the correct holes — some bolts are longer or different).
- Tighten head bolts in the exact sequence and stages specified by the manual using the torque wrench and angle gauge if required. Do not skip steps or reverse sequence.
- Reinstall camshafts, timing components, rockers, and valve cover per manual timing and torque specs. Replace any gaskets removed.
- Reinstall injectors, fuel lines, intake and exhaust manifolds with new gaskets and proper torque.

- Reassembly of peripheral systems
- Replace oil and filter, refill coolant (use correct coolant and mixture).
- Bleed fuel system and coolant system per manual (air in diesel fuel lines or cooling system can cause serious issues).
- Reconnect battery and check for electrical connectors correctly installed.

- Initial start-up and checks
- Prime fuel system as needed without cranking to avoid air locks, then start engine and idle while checking for leaks (fuel, oil, coolant, exhaust).
- Monitor oil pressure and coolant temperature. Re-check torque on accessible head hardware after first heat cycle if manual requires doing so.
- Perform compression test and/or cylinder leak-down test to confirm proper sealing on each cylinder.

- Common beginner mistakes to avoid
- Reusing torque-to-yield head bolts — do not reuse unless manual explicitly permits.
- Skipping cam/crank locking tools — moving timing during head removal causes major engine damage on reassembly.
- Not checking head and block flatness — a new gasket won’t fix warped surfaces.
- Over-applying sealant or using wrong gasket orientation — follow manual precisely.
- Failing to label hoses/wires — reassembly confusion leads to errors.
- Not properly bleeding fuel and coolant systems — leads to poor running or overheating.

- When to get professional help or machine shop involvement
- If head is warped beyond tolerance, cracked, or shows hairline cracks — send to machine shop or replace.
- If you lack an engine hoist or cam/crank locking tools, consider a shop; dropping or mishandling the head can cause damage and injury.
- If timing system must be disturbed and you’re not confident in locking/alignment tools and procedures.
- If you find severe internal damage (scored cam lobes, damaged bearings, fractured valves) — professional inspection is advised.

- Final practical tips for a beginner
- Take many clear photos during disassembly to help reassembly.
- Keep fasteners grouped by location and orientation; magnetic trays or labeled bags help.
- Work systematically and cleanly — dirt and debris ruin head gaskets and engine internals.
- Expect the job to take a full day or several days depending on access, tools, and experience.
- If in doubt about torque values, bolt reuse, or timing procedures, follow the Hino 700 workshop manual precisely or contract a qualified diesel mechanic.

- Safety reminder (last)
- Heavy engine components can kill or cause severe injury — use rated lifting equipment, support the vehicle and engine properly, and never work under an unsupported load.

This covers the tools, how to use them, why extra parts may be required, and the procedural flow. Follow the Hino 700 workshop manual for all specifications, sequences and special-tool part numbers.
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Manual shifting hino 700 series

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Hino Dutro - Wikipedia Hino S-Series (North America) The Hino Dutro (Japanese: 日野デュトロ) is a light commercial truck manufactured by Hino Motors. It is a rebadged version of the Toyota Dyna. Like the Dyna and its twin Toyoace, the Dutro is built on the U300 platform for the standard cab, or U400 platform for the wide cab and offered in many different chassis type suitable for different purposes. The Dutro ...

Hino Contessa - Wikipedia Hino Renault (series PA) 47,299 of the PC-series Contessa were built, between April 1961 and the second quarter of 1964. With an 893 cc version of the Renault-based GP engine, max power is 35 PS (26 kW; 35 hp) which provides a top speed of 110 km/h (68 mph). The first Contessa originally received a three-speed column mounted shifter, later a four-speed manual became optional, utilizing an ...