- Safety first
- Wear eye protection, gloves, and steel-toe boots; brake dust can contain hazardous material — avoid blowing dust, use wet wiping or vacuum with HEPA where possible.
- Work on level ground, chock wheels opposite the axle you work on, and never rely on a jack alone — always use heavy-duty jack stands rated for the truck.
- If the truck uses air brakes, purge air pressure and follow the vehicle’s workshop manual procedure for isolating spring park brakes — air systems can lock or release brakes unexpectedly.
- If you are unsure at any point, stop and get a qualified heavy-vehicle mechanic to avoid injury or brake failure.

- Tools (basic + what each is for and how to use them)
- Heavy-duty floor jack or bottle jack rated for the axle load
- Use to lift the truck. Position under the axle or manufacturer-recommended jacking point; lift slowly and evenly.
- Heavy-duty jack stands (axle-rated)
- Place securely under axle or frame after lifting. Never work under the vehicle supported only by a jack.
- Wheel chocks (large, heavy-duty)
- Block wheels on the opposite end to prevent rolling.
- Socket set (metric and imperial sizes as required) and breaker bar
- Use to remove wheel nuts, caliper bolts, carrier bolts, hub bolts. Breaker bar gives extra leverage for tight fasteners.
- Impact wrench (12–24V or pneumatic) — optional but very helpful
- Speeds removal of wheel nuts and large bolts; if not available use breaker bar and cheater bar carefully.
- Torque wrench (large capacity, truck-rated)
- Essential to correctly torque wheel nuts, caliper carrier bolts, hub bolts to manufacturer specs. Set to the specified value and tighten in the recommended pattern.
- Penetrating oil (e.g., PB Blaster or similar)
- Spray on seized bolts, studs, and stuck rotors; allow soak time to ease removal.
- Rubber or dead-blow mallet and brass or soft-faced hammer
- Use to shock loose a seized rotor without damaging surfaces.
- Hub puller or slide hammer (heavy-duty)
- Required if rotor or hub is corroded-on; prevents damage to hub studs when removing a stuck rotor.
- Caliper hanger or strong wire/strap
- Hang caliper off the suspension so brake hose isn’t stressed; do not let caliper hang by the hose.
- C-clamp or caliper piston retraction tool (large, truck-rated) or compressed-air method with gauge and caution
- Retract the piston to allow new rotor and pads to fit; for large truck calipers, use the correct tool to avoid damaging pistons/seals.
- Brake cleaner and lint-free rags
- Clean rotor, hub, and caliper surfaces free of grease and debris.
- Dial indicator (for runout measurement)
- Mount on hub and measure lateral runout of rotor to confirm whether rotor is within spec.
- Micrometer or digital calipers (able to measure mm)
- Measure rotor thickness at multiple points to compare to minimum spec.
- Feeler gauge / straightedge
- Check rotor flatness or lip height.
- Screwdrivers and pry bar
- Aid in removing retaining screws, clips, and prying off components carefully.
- Wire brush and Scotch-Brite pad
- Clean rust from hub face and mating surfaces for proper rotor seating.
- Brake grease / anti-seize compound
- Apply thin layer to hub seating surface (not friction surfaces) and to guide pins to prevent future seizure.
- New parts and consumables (see parts section)
- Have new rotors, pads, hardware, seals, copper crush washers, and brake fluid on hand as needed.
- Personal protective equipment (PPE)
- Nitrile gloves, safety glasses, dust mask or respirator when cleaning.

- Additional recommended tools (why they help)
- Hydraulic shop press or bearing puller (if hub bearings need removal)
- Required to properly service bearings; prevents damage from improvised levering.
- Torque multiplier (if working by hand on very large nuts)
- Helps achieve high torque values safely.
- Service manual or OEM torque/spec sheet for Hino 700
- Provides exact torque specs, rotor minimum thickness, runout limits, and air-brake procedures — essential.

- Parts that may need replacement and why
- Brake rotor (disc)
- Replace if cracked, warped beyond runout spec, scored below minimum thickness, or if machining would make it below minimum thickness. New rotor ensures proper braking surface and heat dissipation.
- Brake pads
- Replace whenever you remove the caliper or rotor if pads are worn, contaminated with oil/grease, or glazed. Replacing pads with rotors is best practice for even bedding.
- Caliper guide pins, boots, or caliper seals
- Replace if corroded, seized, torn, or leaking. Seized pins cause uneven pad wear and sticking caliper.
- Hub bearings and seals
- Inspect for play, roughness, heat damage, or leaks. Replace if worn — bad bearings can cause rotor wobble and premature wear.
- Wheel studs or nuts
- Replace if damaged, stretched, or corroded. Damaged studs compromise wheel retention.
- Rotor retaining screws / bolts and caliper carrier bolts
- Replace if rounded or corroded. Use new if torque-to-yield or if specified.
- Banjo bolt copper crush washers / brake hose fittings
- Always replace crush washers when reassembling banjo fittings to ensure leak-free seals.
- Brake fluid
- Replace or top up if contaminated, or if bleeding is required after work. Use correct DOT rating per manual.
- Anti-seize / grease
- Consumables to prevent future seizure.

- How to decide if rotor can be machined (resurfaced) or must be replaced
- Measure rotor thickness with micrometer at multiple radii and compare to the minimum thickness in the Hino workshop manual.
- Measure lateral runout with a dial indicator; if runout exceeds spec and machining cannot restore within limits, replace.
- If rotor has deep scoring, cracks, heat cracking, or is already at/near minimum thickness, replace rather than machine.

- Step-by-step procedure (workshop-style, concise)
- Park vehicle on level ground, apply parking brake, chock opposite wheels, and block drivetrain if possible.
- De-pressurize air-brake system as required and follow manual instructions for making brakes safe to work on.
- Loosen wheel nuts slightly while truck is on the ground (break them free).
- Safely raise the vehicle with the jack to lift the wheel clear, then place jack stands under a rated support point; lower onto stands.
- Remove wheel and set aside on clean surface.
- Inspect caliper and brake assembly; spray penetrating oil on bolts that appear seized and allow to soak.
- Remove caliper guide bolts and slide caliper off the rotor; hang caliper with a hanger or wire — do not let it hang on the brake hose.
- Remove caliper carrier (if present) and any rotor retaining screws or bolts.
- Remove rotor; if it’s stuck, use hub puller or give several firm blows with a dead-blow mallet on the rotor hat area while avoiding hitting the braking surface directly.
- Clean hub mating surface thoroughly with wire brush and solvent; ensure it is flat and free of corrosion so new rotor seats evenly.
- Measure rotor thickness at several points and measure runout on the rotor/hub assembly. Compare to workshop manual minimum thickness and runout specs.
- Inspect wheel bearings and seals; replace if rough, have play, or leak. Replace seals whenever bearings are removed.
- Fit new rotor (or resurfaced rotor) onto hub; ensure it sits flush. Install any retaining screws.
- Clean rotor braking surface with brake cleaner to remove protective oil before assembly.
- If replacing pads, compress caliper piston(s) using the correct retraction tool or C-clamp (do slowly and evenly). For air-assist calipers, follow manufacturer procedure.
- Grease guide pins with high-temperature brake grease and reinstall caliper carrier and caliper with new hardware if provided. Replace banjo bolt washers as needed and torque to spec.
- Reinstall wheel and start wheel nuts by hand. Lower vehicle off jack stands and torque wheel nuts to the correct specification in a star pattern using a torque wrench.
- If brake lines were opened or if caliper bled, bleed the brakes following the required sequence and ensure there is no air in the system. Use correct fluid type and torque brake line fittings to spec.
- Check for leaks at hose and banjo connections, and check caliper operation by rotating wheel — there should be light drag but it should turn.
- Perform a careful low-speed road test in a safe area to verify braking operation and to bed new pads/rotors following pad manufacturer instructions.

- Final checks and bedding-in
- After first short drive and cool-down, re-torque wheel nuts to specified values.
- Follow pad and rotor manufacturer bedding procedure — typically a series of controlled moderate stops to heat and mate surfaces properly.
- Re-inspect for unusual noises, vibration, leaks, or temperature irregularities.

- Torque specs, measures, and where to get them
- Use the Hino 700 series workshop manual for exact torque values for wheel nuts, hub nuts, caliper carrier bolts, and banjo bolts, as well as rotor minimum thickness and runout limits.
- If you don’t have the manual, obtain it from Hino dealer or an official service database before proceeding.

- Waste and disposal
- Collect old brake fluid and contaminated rags for proper disposal per local regulations.
- Dispose of old rotors and pads at an appropriate recycling or metal-waste facility.

- When to call a professional (critical)
- If you encounter seized hub nuts/rotors that require hydraulic tools beyond your capability, damaged bearings that need pressing, complex air-brake system work, uncertain torque or reassembly steps, or any sign of brake system contamination or failure — stop and have a qualified heavy vehicle technician complete the repair.

- Short summary of replacement parts commonly needed
- New rotors (matching axle left/right and part number)
- New pads (correct compound for vehicle/service)
- Guide pins/boots, caliper seals (if worn)
- Hub bearings/seals (if play or roughness)
- Wheel studs/nuts (if damaged)
- Banjo bolt copper washers
- Brake fluid (correct DOT grade)
- New hardware kit (bolts, retaining screws) if supplied or corroded

- Final note
- This is a heavy-vehicle, safety-critical repair. Follow the Hino 700 workshop manual for specifications and air-system procedures exactly. If you lack proper lifting equipment, torque tools, or are not confident in bearing/hub work, have a professional perform the job.
rteeqp73

New Hino 700 Series Walkaround and Review The new Hino 700 Series has arrived at CMI Hino Adelaide! Have a watch as our Sales Manager, Dani takes you through this ...

HINO 700 Series Air Dryer repair

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