Tools & supplies
- Metric socket & deep-well sockets (common switch hex sizes 19, 22, 24 mm) or appropriate open/flare wrench
- Ratchet and extension; torque wrench (0–50 Nm)
- Multimeter (ohms/continuity)
- Small jumper wire or fused test lead
- Heat source for bench test (pot of water + thermometer) or heat gun
- Coolant drain pan, funnel, refill coolant (specified Hino antifreeze)
- Replacement thermal switch (OEM part for your WU/XZU model) and new copper crush washer or O‑ring as required
- Thread sealant/anti-seize product recommended by OEM (if specified)
- Safety gloves, splash goggles, wheel chocks, shop rags
- Pliers, screwdriver set
- Wire brush or contact cleaner for electrical connector

Safety first
1. Work only on a cold engine. Hot coolant/steam causes severe burns.
2. Park on level ground, chock wheels and apply parking brake.
3. Disconnect negative battery terminal when working on electrical connections (except when performing live tests later — reconnect only as needed).
4. Collect drained coolant in a container and dispose/recycle per local regulations.
5. Wear gloves and eye protection.

What the thermal switch does
- The coolant thermal (fan) switch closes at a preset temperature to ground the fan relay coil (or completes a circuit) and turn on the electric fan. If it fails, the fan may not run (overheat) or may run continuously.

Step-by-step: diagnose, bench-test, remove, replace, bleed
1. Verify symptom
- Confirm fan not switching on at high temp (watch coolant temp gauge or let engine reach operating temp). Check fuses and relay first (fan fuse/relay commonly in engine fusebox). If relay and fuse OK, proceed to switch.

2. Locate the thermal switch
- On Hino Dutro WU/XZU series the fan/temperature switch is usually threaded into the cylinder head, thermostat housing, or a coolant passage near the radiator inlet. Trace the fan wiring harness to the engine — the harness ends at the switch with one or two spade terminals.

3. Preliminary electrical check (engine off)
- Reconnect battery if disconnected. Back-probe the connector while engine cold: you should see open (no continuity) between switch terminal and ground when cold (behavior varies with design).
- Start engine and carefully let it warm; monitor connector; fan should energize and continuity should appear at the switching temperature. If you can’t reach temperature safely on lift, proceed to bench test.

4. Bench test (confirm switch operation)
- Remove connector and remove switch only if you will test on bench. With multimeter set to continuity/ohms, connect one probe to the switch body (ground) and the other to the terminal.
- Heat the switch in hot water while monitoring temperature with a thermometer. Note temperature where continuity changes. The switch should close (very low ohms) at the rated temperature (typical fan switches 85–100 °C depending on model). If it never changes or is noisy/inconsistent, replace.

5. Drain coolant to below switch level
- Place drain pan and open drain cock or remove lower radiator hose until coolant level drops below switch port. This prevents spillage when unscrewing the switch.

6. Remove old switch
- Disconnect electrical connector and any securing clip. Use the correct-size wrench/socket on the hex flats of the switch. Turn counterclockwise. Clean area before removing to avoid debris entering cooling system.

7. Prepare and install new switch
- Compare new switch to old: thread size, hex size, terminal type, and switching temp. Replace crush washer/O‑ring. Lightly coat threads with manufacturer-approved sealant if specified (do NOT overuse PTFE tape — can contaminate cooling passages).
- Install by hand to avoid cross-threading, then torque to spec. If no spec available use a conservative torque (typically 8–15 Nm for small sensor threads) — check workshop manual or OEM spec. Over-torquing will strip threads in aluminum heads.

8. Refill coolant and bleed system
- Reinstall any hoses removed. Refill coolant to proper level with specified coolant. Bleed air from system (open bleeder screws if equipped, run engine with radiator cap off and heater on high until thermostat opens and air escapes). Top off coolant. Check for leaks around switch.

9. Final electrical test
- Reconnect battery negative. With engine warmed to operating temp, verify fan cycles on at correct temp. If fan still doesn’t work, check fan relay by applying 12V to relay coil or bridging relay output to verify fan motor operation; check wiring continuity and ground.

How the test tools are used
- Multimeter: set to continuity/ohms and watch for change as switch is heated. Expect open circuit cold, closed when hot (or vice versa depending on switch type — verify with meter).
- Jumper wire/fused lead: can be used carefully to simulate switch closure by grounding the relay control terminal (do not short unsafely). Use fused jumper to avoid damage.

Common pitfalls & how to avoid them
- Not draining enough coolant — expect a spill when removing switch. Drain below switch port.
- Over-torquing sensor — aluminum threads strip easily. Use correct torque.
- Reusing old crush washer/O‑ring — causes leaks. Always replace seal.
- Using wrong replacement switch (different temperature rating or thread) — match OEM part exactly. Wrong temp causes premature/late fan operation.
- Neglecting to bleed air — causes overheating and false temperature readings.
- Testing with hot pressurized system — risk of severe burns. Always test on cold engine or relieve pressure.
- Ignoring wiring/connectors — sometimes a bad connector or corroded ground is the real problem; inspect and clean contacts.

Replacement parts & consumables
- Correct OEM thermal switch for Hino Dutro WU/XZU model (match part number or temperature spec)
- New copper crush washer or O‑ring (sensor seal)
- Coolant (Hino specified type)
- Optional: replacement connector/pigtail if corroded, relay/fuse if found faulty, thread sealant if OEM calls for it

Quick troubleshooting tip
- To isolate: if bench-tested switch OK, but fan still won’t run, jump the fan relay input (via fused jumper) to ground to see if fan runs. If fan runs, the switch wiring or relay is at fault. If fan does not run, motor/fuse/relay is at fault.

End.
rteeqp73

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