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Hino Dutro WU and XZU Models Series Workshop Manual download

- Safety first
- Wear eye protection, gloves and sturdy closed-toe shoes; never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack.
- Work on a level surface, chock opposite wheels, disconnect the battery if you’ll be near electrical fittings.
- Have the Hino workshop manual or OEM service data ready for model-specific diagrams and torque figures — torque values are critical and vary by year/variant.

- Tools (every tool below includes what it is, why it’s needed, and how to use it)
- Hydraulic floor jack (2‑ton or greater)
- Description: wheeled jack with a lifting pad and pump handle.
- Why: raises the truck so you can remove wheels and support with stands.
- How to use: place on specified jacking point, pump handle until wheel clears ground; do NOT rely on the jack to hold the vehicle — always place jack stands before working under or around suspension.
- Jack stands (pair, rated for vehicle weight; front axle rating needs to cover truck weight)
- Description: adjustable, tripod/ratchet or pin-type steel stands.
- Why: provide secure, stable support after lifting.
- How to use: set to the same height, place under secure axle or unibody points per manual, lower the vehicle onto them slowly; rock the vehicle slightly to confirm stability.
- Wheel chocks
- Description: rubber or metal wedges placed behind wheels.
- Why: prevent the vehicle rolling while raised.
- How to use: place behind wheels on ground side opposite the end you raise.
- Metric socket set (deep and shallow sockets, 1/2" and 3/8" drive), combination wrench set (metric)
- Description: sockets and wrenches sized for nuts/bolts (likely 10–24 mm on light truck).
- Why: remove wheel nuts, damper mounting bolts, sway bar links, brackets.
- How to use: choose correct-sized socket/wrench; turn counterclockwise to loosen, clockwise to tighten; use six-point sockets on stubborn bolts to reduce rounding.
- Breaker bar (18–24" or longer)
- Description: non-ratcheting long-handled bar.
- Why: gives leverage to break loose seized bolts.
- How to use: fit socket over bolt, apply steady force; avoid sudden jerks. Use penetrating oil first.
- Torque wrench (preset click type covering ~10–200 Nm or inch-lb/ft range appropriate for axle hardware)
- Description: calibrated wrench that clicks when set torque is reached.
- Why: tighten mounting bolts to factory spec for safety and to avoid failure.
- How to use: set required torque, tighten until wrench clicks, then stop. Re-check after first short drive.
- Penetrating oil (e.g., PB Blaster, WD-40 Specialist)
- Description: solvent to loosen rusted threads.
- Why: makes seized bolts removable without rounding them off.
- How to use: spray, let soak 10–20 min (longer for severe rust), then attempt loosening.
- Hammer and rubber mallet
- Description: steel hammer and softer mallet.
- Why: tap seized bolts or shock body free; rubber mallet to persuade components without damage.
- How to use: light taps; do not strike directly on bolts that could shear.
- Pry bar or large screwdriver
- Description: lever for separating components.
- Why: separate lower eye from bracket or nudge strut out of mount.
- How to use: apply controlled leverage; protect painted surfaces with block of wood.
- Impact wrench / air or battery (optional)
- Description: power tool that rapidly turns sockets.
- Why: speeds removal of tight bolts, especially rusted ones.
- How to use: use correct socket and steady grip; be cautious not to overtighten when reassembling.
- Spring compressor (if front assembly is a strut with coil spring)
- Description: two-clamp or fork-type tool that compresses the coil spring.
- Why: safely compresses spring before removing strut top nut. REQUIRED if dismantling strut assembly.
- How to use: clamp top and bottom per tool instructions, tighten evenly and gradually, check secure seating before removing top nut. If unsure or no tool, buy a pre-assembled replacement strut to avoid compressing spring.
- Strut nut socket or hex/Allen key (if top nut requires holding)
- Description: specialized sockets or tools to hold strut shaft while undoing nut.
- Why: prevents the shaft from spinning when removing top nut.
- Vise-grips / locking pliers
- Description: adjustable locking pliers.
- Why: hold shafts, brackets, or turn rounded nuts in an emergency.
- How to use: clamp firmly; avoid applying to delicate components.
- Wire brush and rags
- Description: brush to clean corrosion and rags for grease.
- Why: clean mounting faces for correct seating and torque.
- Anti-seize compound and thread locker (medium strength)
- Description: anti-seize prevents future corrosion on threads; medium-strength thread locker keeps nuts secure but allows later removal.
- Why: ensures long-term serviceability and prevents bolts seizing.
- How to use: apply anti-seize to bolts you want removable; apply thread locker to bolts per manual (do not mix where anti-seize applied).
- Replacement parts and consumables (described below)
- Description: new dampers, nuts/bolts, dust boots, bump stops, top mounts.
- Why: worn parts need replacement; some nuts/bolts are torque-to-yield or single-use and must be replaced.

- Replacement parts: what you may need and why
- Shock absorbers / dampers (front and rear)
- Why: core component — worn shocks cause poor ride, nose dive, increased stopping distance and uneven tyre wear.
- Recommendation: replace in axle pairs (both front or both rear) to maintain balanced handling.
- Choice: OEM Hino part or quality aftermarket equivalent specified for your WU/XZU model and year. If unsure, remove an old unit and match part number/measure extended/retracted length and mount types (eye, stud, twin‑eye).
- Strut assembly (complete pre-assembled unit) — optional alternative for front struts with coil springs
- Why: avoids using a spring compressor; safer for beginners.
- Top mounts (strut mounts) and bearings
- Why: worn mounts cause clunks and steering shimmy; often replaced when shocks are changed.
- Dust boots and bump stops
- Why: protect the piston rod and damper; bump stops prevent bottoming out.
- Mounting bolts/nuts/washers (safety-critical fasteners)
- Why: some are torque-to-yield or corroded and should be replaced; new hardware ensures proper clamping.
- Sway bar end-links, control arm bushings, wheel bearings (inspect)
- Why: if these components are worn they mimic shock symptoms; replace as needed.

- Signs a damper needs replacing
- Visible oil leak on the shock body.
- Excessive bounce: push down on corner and it oscillates more than 1–2 cycles.
- Uneven tyre wear, poor steering control, nose dive on braking, clunking over bumps.
- Damper body physically damaged or mounts deteriorated.
- If any of these present, replacement is required — driving on failed dampers is unsafe.

- General removal and replacement procedure (use factory manual for model-specific details and torque)
- Prepare vehicle
- Chock wheels, loosen wheel nuts slightly while truck on ground.
- Lift at designated jacking point with floor jack, place jack stands under secure support points, lower vehicle onto stands and confirm stability.
- Remove wheel and expose damper
- Remove wheel nuts and wheel; lay aside.
- Clean around mount bolts, spray penetrating oil on mounting bolts; allow soak time.
- Disconnect any attachments
- Unclip brake lines, ABS sensor wires, sway bar links or brake line brackets attached to the shock; support lines so they’re not stressed.
- For conventional (non-strut) shock:
- Support lower control arm with jack to take load.
- Remove lower mounting bolt(s) (use breaker bar if tight). Use penetrating oil and heat if severely rusted.
- Remove upper mounting nut(s) in engine bay/underbody.
- Pull shock out; use pry bar if stuck.
- Compare old shock to new one (length, eye orientation, bushing size).
- Fit new shock, insert upper fastener and tighten finger-tight, insert lower fastener, torque both to spec.
- For strut with coil spring (front) — two safe options:
- Replace with a pre‑assembled strut:
- Remove top nuts (access under hood/strut tower) AFTER supporting lower arm with jack and removing wheel.
- Remove lower bolts, remove whole strut assembly and replace with pre-assembled unit; tighten all nuts/bolts to torque specs.
- Rebuild strut with spring compressor (advanced; only if you have the compressor and experience)
- Securely compress the spring with a quality compressor, alternating sides evenly until spring is loose in the top mount.
- Remove the strut top nut while holding the shaft (use correct socket/holding tool).
- Disassemble, replace dampers, dust boot, bump stop, and top mount if needed.
- Reassemble keeping spring centered; slowly and evenly release compressor; ensure spring seats correctly.
- Install strut back in vehicle and torque to spec.
- Refit attachments (brake lines, ABS clips), reinstall wheel, lower vehicle slightly so tires contact ground and torque wheel nuts to spec.
- Final torque
- With weight on wheels (vehicle at curb height), re-torque suspension mounting bolts to final specified torque — many suspension bolts must be torqued with suspension loaded.
- Post‑installation
- Test drive slowly, listen for noises, then perform a short road test at varied speeds; re-check torque of fasteners after 50–100 km.

- Techniques for seized bolts and stubborn components
- Apply penetrating oil and let soak; hit nut side lightly with hammer to help penetration.
- Use breaker bar for steady leverage, not sudden jerks.
- Heat the nut (propane torch) carefully to expand metal — avoid nearby rubber/plastic/wiring and brakes; use heat only if safe.
- Use an impact wrench to shock-loosen rusted fasteners; follow with socket and breaker bar for removal.
- If bolt head is rounded, use a bolt extractor socket or cut a slot for an impact screwdriver.

- Safety and quality tips for a beginner
- If the front uses coil springs and you do not have or are not comfortable with a spring compressor, buy preassembled struts or have a shop swap them — compressing springs is dangerous when done incorrectly.
- Replace shocks in axle pairs to keep balanced handling.
- Replace any heavily corroded bolts with new ones of correct grade; don’t re-use torque-to-yield fasteners.
- Keep components organized and clean mounting faces before tightening.
- After replacement, get a wheel alignment if control arm or strut geometry was disturbed or if you notice pull or uneven tyre wear.

- Final checks and follow-up
- Inspect for leaks, loose clips, and correct wheel nut torque.
- Re-check torque of critical fasteners after first short drive.
- If you hear clunks, vibrations, unusual tyre wear, or poor handling after install, stop driving and re-inspect or consult a professional.

- Quick shopping list (minimum for a beginner job)
- New dampers (front pair or rear pair or all 4 as needed) — confirm fitment to model/year
- Replacement mounting bolts/nuts if corroded or single-use
- Dust boots, bump stops, strut mounts (recommended if front struts)
- Floor jack, pair of jack stands, wheel chocks
- Metric socket/wrench set, breaker bar, torque wrench
- Penetrating oil, anti-seize, rags
- Spring compressor OR preassembled strut(s) if front springs present

- Final note
- Follow the Hino workshop manual for model-specific diagrams, torque specs and safety points. If any step feels beyond your skills (especially anything involving compressed springs or seized structural bolts), have a professional complete that portion.


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