Tools & consumables
- Floor jack + quality jack stands (rated for vehicle weight)
- Wheel chocks
- Lug wrench / impact wrench with correct sockets
- Metric socket set (deep & shallow), ratchet, extensions, breaker bar
- Combination wrenches (metric)
- Torque wrench (capable up to at least 200 Nm)
- Ball-joint separator / puller (Pitman/pickle fork or preferably a threaded ball-joint press/puller)
- Hammer, dead-blow hammer, pry bar
- Punch or drift (to help free stubborn bolts)
- Penetrating oil (PB Blaster or similar)
- Wire brush and shop rags
- Bench or hydraulic press (if removing/pressing bushings or ball joint) OR suitable c-frame ball-joint press adapters
- Safety glasses, gloves
- Anti-seize, thread locker (medium strength), new cotter pins
- Grease (if replacement arm/ball joint has a grease nipple)
- Replacement parts: new upper control arm assembly (or new arm + bushings + ball joint if replacing components separately), new mounting bolts/nuts if specified by OEM (use new cotter pins always)
- Service manual or access to factory torque specs and alignment data

Safety precautions (must-follow)
1. Work on a level surface. Chock rear wheels.
2. Raise vehicle with floor jack and support on rated jack stands under designated frame points — never rely on the jack alone.
3. Block the steering knuckle so it cannot swing and stress brake lines; support with a small jack or strap.
4. Wear safety glasses and gloves. Keep hands clear when releasing tension on suspension components.
5. If rusted fasteners are heated (avoid if rubber/hoses nearby), protect surrounding components.
6. After installation, do not drive vehicle before torquing fasteners to spec and having a front-end alignment performed.

Step-by-step replacement (typical double-wishbone upper control arm on Hino Dutro WU/XZU series)
Note: this is a workshop-level procedure. Always verify with the Hino workshop manual for specific fastener torques and any model-year variations.

1) Preparation
- Apply penetrating oil to ball joint nut, upper arm mounting bolts and any visible rusted fasteners. Let soak 10–15 minutes.
- Loosen wheel lug nuts slightly with vehicle on ground.

2) Lift & secure
- Jack up the front and support the chassis with jack stands under the frame. Place wheel chocks behind rear wheels.
- Remove the front wheel.

3) Access & disconnect components
- Hang the brake caliper from the body with wire or a caliper hanger; do NOT let it hang by the brake hose. Remove rotor if necessary for better access.
- If present, disconnect sway bar end link from the control arm (use a wrench and counter-hold) so the arm can be moved freely.
- If necessary for clearance, disconnect the tie rod end from the steering knuckle (remove cotter pin and nut, separate with tie-rod puller). Support the knuckle with a jack or strap so it doesn’t overload brake lines.

4) Support the lower control arm / knuckle
- Place a jack under the lower control arm or under the knuckle to take some load off the upper ball joint and control arm. This prevents sudden drop when fasteners removed.

5) Remove upper ball joint nut & separate joint
- Remove cotter pin from the upper ball joint castle nut (if present).
- Loosen and remove the upper ball joint nut with appropriate socket/wrench. Use a punch to keep the stud from turning if needed.
- Use a threaded ball-joint separator or ball-joint press to push the tapered stud out of the knuckle. If using a pickle fork, be aware it will damage the rubber boot — not recommended on reusable joints. Use the puller/press for safe removal without damage.
- Once separated, allow the knuckle to be supported by the jack; do not let suspension droop uncontrolled.

How the ball-joint puller is used:
- Thread the puller so its forcing screw pushes against the knuckle while the puller cup or jaws press on the tapered stud housing, then tighten the forcing screw until the stud breaks free from the taper. With a hydraulic press or c-frame press, center the adapters and press the stud out slowly.

6) Remove upper control arm pivot bolts
- Locate the two (or three) pivot bolts/nuts that secure the control arm to the frame subframe. Remove nuts and slide bolts out. You may need to use penetrating oil, a hammer or drift to drive them free if rusted. Support the control arm so it doesn’t fall when fasteners removed.
- Remove the upper control arm from the vehicle.

7) Inspect mounting points & components
- Clean the bolt holes and mating surfaces with a wire brush. Inspect frame brackets, bushings and bolt condition. Replace bolts if heavily corroded or if OEM requires replacement. Check condition of lower ball joint, tie rod ends, and bushings — replace as needed.

8) Install new control arm
- If replacing ball joint separately (not recommended unless you have press), press in new ball joint with the bench/hydraulic press per manufacturer instructions. Ensure correct orientation and grease the joint if it has a zerk fitting.
- Position new upper control arm into the frame mounts. Insert pivot bolts. If shims were present on original, note orientation and reuse or replace as required to maintain alignment baseline. Apply anti-seize on bolt threads if OEM allows; do NOT use where specified otherwise.
- Snug pivot nuts/bolts by hand but do not fully torque until the vehicle is at ride height or per manual instruction (many arms require final torque with suspension at normal ride position to avoid bushing preload). Mark or note location of eccentric cams for alignment.

9) Reconnect upper ball joint to knuckle
- Raise the knuckle into place with the support jack so the ball joint stud lines up with the knuckle hole. Install the ball joint stud into the knuckle taper.
- Install the nut and torque to factory spec. If the ball joint uses a castle nut and cotter pin, tighten to spec, then align castle slots with slot in stud avoiding overstressing — if necessary, tighten further to align then install a new cotter pin. If alignment requires loosening and re-torquing, follow manual procedure.
- If using a tapered press fit, ensure no hammer strikes to the stud threads which can damage seating — use the puller/presser to press in.

10) Final torque on mounting bolts
- With the vehicle at normal ride height (either lower onto jack stands or use a spring compressor or support to replicate static load as specified), torque the control arm pivot nuts and ball joint nuts to OEM torque values. Check service manual for correct sequence and values. Using the torque wrench: set required torque, snug bolt, then apply smooth steadily increasing force until wrench clicks. Use new thread locker if specified.

11) Reinstall removed components
- Reinstall sway bar link, tie rod ends (new cotter pins), brake rotor and caliper. Torque caliper bracket/slide bolts and lug nuts to spec when the wheel is reinstalled and vehicle lowered.

12) Grease & final checks
- Grease any grease fittings to specification. Ensure no metal-to-metal contact, brake hose routing is correct and not twisted or stretched. Check for clearance between arm and other components.
- Lower vehicle, torque wheel lugs to spec.

13) Alignment
- Always perform a full front-end alignment (camber, caster, toe) after replacing upper control arm. Do not drive on public roads without alignment — incorrect camber/toe causes tire wear and unsafe handling.

Common pitfalls & how to avoid them
- Using a pickle fork: damages ball joint boot and may require replacing the ball joint unnecessarily. Use a threaded puller/press whenever possible.
- Not supporting the knuckle: can damage brake hoses or cause injury; always support before separating joints.
- Reusing cotter pins or damaged hardware: always replace cotter pins; replace fasteners if threads or heads are damaged.
- Not torquing at ride height: some control-arm bushings require torqueing with suspension loaded; check manual. Torquing in the unloaded position can pre-load or bind bushings causing premature wear and alignment issues.
- Not performing alignment: results in poor handling and rapid tire wear.
- Over-tightening bolts/nuts or using wrong torque: can break studs or crush bushings. Use the torque wrench and factory specs.
- Damaging ABS wiring or brake lines by dropping knuckle — always support knuckle.

Replacement parts required (typical)
- New upper control arm assembly (recommended) OR new bushings and pressed-in ball joint if doing component-level repair.
- New ball joint (if not integrated into new arm) — most techs replace the whole arm if ball joint is pressed-in.
- New mounting bolts/nuts and cotter pins if OEM specifies one-time use or bolts are corroded/damaged.
- Grease, anti-seize, thread locker per manual.

Final notes
- Obtain and follow the Hino Dutro WU/XZU workshop manual for exact fastener torque values, any service bulletins, and alignment specifications.
- After replacement and alignment, road-test at low speed and re-check hardware torque after 50–100 km.

Done.
rteeqp73

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