Windshield repair — Hino Dutro WU / XZU series (workshop-level) — step‑by‑step

Safety first (read before starting)
- Eye protection, cut‑resistant gloves, long sleeves, N95 respirator for dust/solvents.
- Disconnect negative battery if any airbag/rain‑sensor wiring will be disturbed.
- Cover dash, seats and paint with heavy cloths/plastic; use tape to protect paint around windshield.
- Work on a flat, level surface, sheltered from wind/dust.
- Use two people for glass handling; use vacuum cups.
- Dispose broken glass and urethane waste per local rules.

Tools & consumables
- Vacuum‑cup glass lifters (2 or 3)
- Reciprocating saw or powered windshield cut‑out tool with long flexible blade OR cold‑knife / wire windshield removal kit (manual or powered)
- Urethane removal knife/cold knife set and long cutting blades
- Trim tools, panel clip pliers, screwdrivers, socket set (for wiper arms, cowl panels)
- Razor blades, scrapers, non‑silicone cleaner (isopropyl alcohol), adhesive remover (urethane cleaner)
- Primer for glass and primer/activator for metal (manufacturer/3M/Sika recommended)
- One‑component polyurethane windshield adhesive (3M, Sika, etc.), appropriate gun/adapter
- Masking tape, shop towels, plastic sheeting
- New windshield specific to Hino Dutro WU/XZU series (OEM or exact fit), replacement molding/seals and any clips removed
- Vacuum pump + bridge injector kit, windshield resin, UV lamp (for chip/stone repair) — only if repairing chips, not replacing whole glass
- Torque wrench (for reattaching wiper arm nuts to OEM spec — consult manual)
- Water spray bottle for leak test

When to repair vs replace
- Repair chips/craters ≤25 mm (varies by depth/location) or short hairline chips not in driver’s sight line — use resin repair.
- Any edge crack, long crack (>100 mm), multiple cracks, or damage obstructing driver’s view = full windshield replacement.

A. Chip / small crack resin repair — step‑by‑step
1. Preparation
- Clean area; remove loose glass with vacuum. Remove rubber trim locally if needed. Keep area dry.
- Tape glass around repair to prevent dirt; mark center.

2. Set up resin bridge / injector
- Position bridge directly over damage; center injector over pit. Use softer elastomer cups to seal.
- If kit has vacuum function, pull vacuum for 30–60 seconds to evacuate air/moisture from pit. Release vacuum as per kit instructions.

3. Inject resin
- With vacuum released, inject resin into pit under pressure. Repeat vacuum/injection cycles if recommended — this forces resin into hairline microcracks.
- Allow resin to fill; wipe excess.

4. Cure and finish
- Cure resin with UV lamp per resin instructions (usually 1–3 minutes per area).
- Scrape cured resin level with razor at a shallow angle, polish if necessary.
- Clean with alcohol and inspect for remaining voids. Repeat injection if needed.

Tool use notes (bridge/injector): maintain perfect seal of cups; any air leak prevents full vacuum. Do not overpressurize — follow kit stroke limits. Use only resin formulated for auto glass; some cheap resins will yellow or shrink.

Common pitfalls (chip repair)
- Trying to fix large/edge cracks — will fail.
- Not evacuating moisture/air first — resin won’t penetrate.
- Contaminated surface (silicone, wax) — resin won’t bond.
- Curing under direct sun may produce poor cure — use controlled UV lamp.

B. Full windshield replacement — step‑by‑step
1. Preparation & removal
- Park on flat surface, block wheels. Disconnect negative battery if removing any electrical connections (rain sensor, antenna).
- Remove wiper arms (lift, remove cap, remove nut), windshield cowl/top trim (remove clips/screws), any plastic dash top covers to access pinch‑weld and moldings. Keep fasteners in order.
- If vehicle has rain sensor or antenna bonded to glass, carefully disconnect per component instructions or transfer to new glass.

2. Cut out old glass
- Protect interior with drop cloths. Score urethane around windshield; use cold knife or wire to cut adhesive. For powered tools, keep blade parallel to glass to avoid damaging pinch weld.
- Work from both outside and inside if needed; cut completely through the urethane bead. Use vacuum or helper to lift and remove the windshield with vacuum cups.

3. Clean pinch‑weld / flange
- Remove remaining urethane with urethane removal knife or grinder carefully — do not gouge metal. Remove all dirt, old primer, grease, and glass shards.
- Treat exposed metal with rust inhibitor if bare metal is present. Clean with isopropyl alcohol and tack cloth.

4. Apply primer(s)
- Mask around pinch weld to make a clean area. Apply metal primer/activator to pinch weld where required by adhesive manufacturer (usually two coats/flash time).
- Apply glass primer to the new windshield’s bonding area (follow manufacturer dry times). Do not touch primed surfaces after priming.

5. Apply urethane adhesive
- Load urethane into caulking gun with proper nozzle. Apply a continuous, even bead around pinch weld in the pattern recommended by adhesive manufacturer (typically a 6–8 mm full bead; some applications require triangular bead). Avoid gaps. Cut nozzle tip to size for recommended bead diameter. Maintain steady pressure.

6. Fit new windshield
- With 2 people, pick up new glass with vacuum cups, align carefully to pin points (top center and bottom center). Lower straight in — don’t slide or twist. Press firmly to seat into urethane bead evenly.
- Apply gentle pressure around perimeter to ensure continuous contact. Remove vacuum cups. Reinstall molding(s) and cowl.

7. Reassembly & cure time
- Reattach wiper arms (tighten nuts to OEM torque), reattach clips/trim. Reconnect any sensors/antenna.
- Do not drive vehicle until adhesive minimum driveaway time per urethane spec (often 1–2 hours at warm temps for “fast” adhesives; colder temps greatly increase cure time). For safety, many shops wait 4–24 hours before highway speeds. Follow adhesive manufacturer instructions.
- Do a water leak test after full cure.

Tool usage details (cutting and setting)
- Cutting blade: keep blade parallel to flange; use steady motion; replace blades often. Use wire removal tool for faster, safer cuts around corners.
- Vacuum lifters: attach on clean glass surface, ensure vacuum holds before lifting. Coordinate movements with assistant.
- Urethane gun: use steady, even speed; if bead is interrupted, cut back and reapply continuous bead. Keep nozzle clean.

Replacement parts typically required
- Windshield glass specific to Hino Dutro WU/XZU (model/year)
- Outer molding/seal and any retaining clips damaged during removal
- Bonding materials: glass primer and metal primer, urethane adhesive (1 tube per windshield)
- New wiper arm nuts or cowl clips if original are corroded (optional but common)
- Rain sensor/transponder/antenna adhesive if these are attached to glass — may need transfer or replacement

Common pitfalls to avoid (replacement)
- Contaminating primed surfaces with silicone, wax, or skin oils — always use gloves or tape.
- Incomplete removal of old urethane — causes weak bond.
- Incorrect bead pattern or bead too thin — leads to leaks and poor structural integrity.
- Setting glass off‑center or twisting while seating — causes wind noise/leaks.
- Rushing cure time — premature driving can force out urethane bead and break seal.
- Not using manufacturer‑approved primer/adhesive — warranty and safety issue.

Final checks
- Visual check for even gap all round and proper molding fit.
- Torque wiper arm nuts to spec (consult Hino workshop manual; improper torque can damage splines).
- Water test: hose around windshield after full cure to verify no leaks.
- Road test for wind noise at variable speeds after cure period.

Notes & recommendations
- Always use OEM‑fit glass for anything structural or where sensor mounting is required.
- Use adhesive systems recommended by reputable manufacturers (3M, Sika etc.) and follow their application and driveaway time charts — adhesives vary by product and temperature.
- If rain sensor/ADAS sensors are present, recalibration may be required after windshield replacement — follow Hino service manual or have ADAS calibration performed.

Done.
rteeqp73

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- Safety first
- Park on level ground, engine fully cooled, key out of ignition, parking brake on.
- Wear gloves and safety glasses to protect from hot oil and sharp edges.
- Disconnect negative battery terminal to prevent electrical shorts when working on the sensor connector.

- Tools (detailed descriptions and how to use each)
- Metric socket set (deep sockets recommended)
- Description: set of sockets sized in millimeters that fit on a ratchet; deep sockets reach sensors recessed in holes.
- Use: pick the socket that fits the sensor hex snugly, attach to a ratchet and extension if needed, and turn counterclockwise to loosen. Avoid worn or undersized sockets to prevent rounding the sensor hex.
- Ratchet and extensions
- Description: handle that drives sockets; extensions let you reach recessed sensors.
- Use: attach socket to extension then ratchet; use controlled force, don’t use cheater bars.
- Open-end/flare-nut wrench set (metric)
- Description: wrenches with open jaws for hex fittings; flare-nut useful if space is tight.
- Use: use when a socket cannot fit; position wrench firmly on hex and pull steadily to avoid rounding.
- Torque wrench (metric, click type)
- Description: wrench that applies a set torque and clicks when reached.
- Use: tighten replacement sensor to the manufacturer’s torque spec. If you don’t have the spec, obtain it from the workshop manual or dealer; do not overtighten by feel.
- Oil drain pan
- Description: shallow container to catch dripping oil.
- Use: place under sensor area before removal to catch any oil escaping from the oil gallery.
- Shop rags and paper towels
- Description: absorbent cloths for cleaning oil and grime.
- Use: wipe the area, sensor, and connector; keep work area clean.
- Dielectric grease
- Description: non-conductive silicone grease for electrical connectors.
- Use: apply a small amount inside the sensor connector to prevent corrosion and improve sealing.
- Anti-seize compound or thread sealant rated for oil-exposed sensors (optional but recommended)
- Description: a light compound to prevent seizure of metal threads or a specific oil-resistant sealant.
- Use: apply very lightly to sensor threads to ease future removal; avoid getting compound into sensor tip or electrical connector.
- Multimeter (digital)
- Description: device that measures voltage, resistance, and continuity.
- Use: test sensor resistance/continuity to check if sensor is good (see testing steps below).
- Contact cleaner / electrical cleaner spray
- Description: solvent to clean electrical connectors without leaving residue.
- Use: spray the connector to clean corrosion or oil before reconnecting.
- Inspection light / flashlight and mirror
- Description: bright portable light and small mirror.
- Use: inspect the sensor area and connector in tight spaces.
- Jack and axle stands or ramps (if underside access required)
- Description: hydraulic jack lifts vehicle; stands or ramps support it safely.
- Use: lift only if necessary, follow safe jacking points and use stands. Do not rely on the jack alone.
- Replacement sensor and O-ring/seal
- Description: OEM or equivalent oil temperature sensor compatible with your Hino Dutro WU/XZU model, plus new O-ring or crush washer as specified.
- Use: install new sensor if old one is faulty, and always replace sealing washer to prevent leaks.

- Preparation steps
- Place the oil drain pan under the engine area around the oil temperature sensor.
- Locate the oil temperature sensor (consult your vehicle’s service manual or the under-hood layout; typically mounted in the engine block, oil gallery or oil filter housing).
- Clean the area around the sensor with rags and degreaser so no dirt falls into the hole when sensor is removed.

- Removal procedure
- Disconnect the electrical connector from the sensor:
- Use contact cleaner if needed, depress the tab and pull straight off; if stuck, gently pry with a small flat tool while pressing the release tab.
- Place drain pan under the sensor; expect some oil to drip when the sensor is removed.
- Use the correct deep socket on the sensor hex with a ratchet and extension; turn counterclockwise to loosen.
- Remove the sensor by hand once loosened; keep the sensor upright to avoid spilling oil into the engine bay.
- Inspect the sensor port for metal shavings or large debris; wipe clean with a rag.

- Inspection and testing of removed sensor (decide if replacement required)
- Visual inspection
- Look for cracked housing, corroded threads, damaged connector pins, or oil intrusion into connector—these are signs to replace.
- Replace the O-ring or crush washer if it is brittle, flattened, or damaged.
- Electrical testing with multimeter
- Resistance test: measure resistance between the sensor terminals at ambient temperature; check for open circuit (infinite resistance) or short (near zero) which indicate failure.
- Functional test: warm the sensor gently (hot water bath while keeping connector dry) and observe change in resistance — resistance should change smoothly with temperature. If it does not change, replace sensor.
- If you have the workshop manual, compare measured values to the specified resistance/temperature curve. If values are out of spec, sensor needs replacement.
- If any doubt about readings or visible damage, replace the sensor.

- Reinstallation or replacement procedure
- If installing a replacement:
- Use the correct OEM or matched-spec aftermarket sensor for your model (check VIN, engine code, or consult Hino parts dealer). Ensure thread size, connector type and resistance curve match OEM.
- Fit a new O-ring/crush washer as required.
- Lightly coat sensor threads with anti-seize or oil-resistant thread sealant if recommended by the part supplier; do not contaminate the sensor tip.
- Hand-thread the sensor into the port to avoid cross-threading.
- Tighten with socket until seated, then use torque wrench to tighten to the manufacturer’s specified torque (consult the workshop manual or dealer). If you cannot obtain the spec, tighten carefully—do not overtighten.
- Reconnect the electrical connector; apply a small dab of dielectric grease inside the connector to protect against moisture.
- Clean any spilled oil, dispose of contaminated rags properly, and top up engine oil if significant oil was lost during the operation (use the correct grade and quantity for your engine).

- Final checks
- Reconnect negative battery terminal.
- Start the engine and monitor for oil leaks around the sensor.
- Verify the oil temperature reading on the dash or scan tool changes as the engine warms. If the gauge/ECU shows errors, recheck connector and sensor electrical condition.
- Re-inspect for leaks after a short test drive.

- When replacement is required and why
- Replace the sensor if any of the following occur:
- Electrical failure: open or short circuit, or resistance curve out of specification.
- Physical damage: cracked housing, stripped threads, damaged connector pins, or crushed sealing washer.
- Persistent oil leak from the sensor port despite a good washer and correct installation.
- Corrosion or oil ingress into the electrical connector causing intermittent readings.
- Replacement part guidance:
- Use an OEM Hino oil temperature sensor designed for your Dutro WU/XZU engine and model year, or a reputable aftermarket equivalent that matches thread size, connector type and electrical characteristics.
- Always replace the sealing O-ring/crush washer with a new one of the correct material and size.

- Extra tools you might not have and why they are required
- Torque wrench
- Why required: ensures correct tightening to prevent leaks or damage; avoids overtightening brittle sensor housings.
- Multimeter
- Why required: confirms if the sensor is electrically functional before replacing it, saving cost.
- Jack and stands (or ramps)
- Why required: if the sensor sits below the engine or behind components, safe lifting gives access.
- Contact cleaner and dielectric grease
- Why required: cleans and protects electrical connections to prevent future faults.
- Replacement sensor and sealing washer
- Why required: sensors that fail tests or are physically damaged cannot be repaired; a new sensor and seal restore correct function and prevent leaks.

- Quick troubleshooting notes (concise)
- No gauge reading or ECU error: check connector, wiring, and sensor resistance.
- Erratic readings: clean connector, check for oil in connector, test sensor response to temperature change.
- Oil leak at sensor: replace sealing washer and ensure sensor torque to spec.

- Final safety/reminder
- Always consult the Hino Dutro workshop manual or a Hino dealer for exact sensor location, thread size, connector type, and torque specifications for your specific model/year before attempting the job.
rteeqp73