- Safety first
- Wear safety glasses, sturdy gloves, and closed-toe shoes.
- Work on a level surface, engage parking brake, and chock rear wheels.
- Never rely on a hydraulic jack alone to support the vehicle — always use properly rated jack stands placed under the recommended support points.
- Have a fire extinguisher nearby and keep bystanders clear.

- What “strut” replacement means on Hino FD/FE/FF/SG/FA/FB series (overview for a beginner)
- The front suspension uses a strut/shock assembly and associated mounting hardware; replacing a strut means removing the old shock/strut assembly and installing a new one or a rebuilt cartridge/assembly.
- On many trucks you will either replace a complete pre-assembled strut (recommended for beginners) or replace the strut cartridge and reuse the spring/mounts (requires spring compressor and more skill).

- Tools you should have (detailed descriptions and how to use each)
- Hydraulic trolley jack (2–3 ton capacity)
- Description: Low-profile floor jack used to lift the vehicle.
- Use: Center under vehicle lift point, pump handle to raise. Lift only far enough to place jack stands.
- Jack stands (rated for vehicle weight)
- Description: Adjustable support stands that hold the vehicle after lifting.
- Use: Place under manufacturer-recommended support point, set to matching height, lower vehicle onto stands. Never work with just the jack.
- Wheel chocks
- Description: Heavy rubber or plastic wedges placed behind or in front of wheels to prevent rolling.
- Use: Place on the wheels remaining on the ground opposite the end you lift.
- Lug wrench or breaker bar with appropriate socket for lug nuts
- Description: Long-handled tool to loosen/tighten wheel nuts.
- Use: Loosen lug nuts slightly before lifting. Re-torque after lowering with torque wrench.
- Socket set (metric sizes likely: 10mm–24mm or larger depending on truck) and ratchet
- Description: Standard sockets and ratchet for removing bolts and nuts.
- Use: Choose correct socket size, fit square drive, turn ratchet counterclockwise to loosen, clockwise to tighten.
- Deep sockets and extensions
- Description: Longer sockets to reach recessed nuts; extensions to reach awkward bolts.
- Use: Fit onto ratchet to reach nuts in the strut tower or knuckle.
- Breaker bar
- Description: Long non-ratcheting bar used to apply extra leverage to stubborn fasteners.
- Use: Place socket on the fastener and apply steady force; avoid sudden jerks.
- Torque wrench (click-type, accurate to spec)
- Description: Tool that applies a set torque and clicks when reached.
- Use: Tighten critical fasteners (upper strut mount nuts, strut-to-knuckle bolts, wheel lug nuts) to factory torque. Reset after use and store properly.
- Spring compressor (if reusing spring or building a strut from parts)
- Description: Tool that clamps onto coil spring and compresses it so top mount and strut internals can be removed.
- Use: Install on opposite sides of spring or use twin-clamp style; compress evenly a small amount alternately until spring tension is relieved; never compress beyond safe limits; keep hands and body away from spring path. If you’re inexperienced, buy a complete preassembled strut to avoid this tool.
- Ball joint separator or pickle fork / tie rod end puller (if required)
- Description: Tool to separate the ball joint or tie rod end from the steering knuckle.
- Use: Fit between joint and knuckle, then strike or use mechanical spreader to separate the taper. Protect the boot if reusing parts.
- Pry bar and hammer (dead blow recommended)
- Description: Used to persuade stuck components free.
- Use: Apply steady pressure with pry bar; light hammer taps can help free tight bolts; avoid excessive force that can bend components.
- Penetrating oil (e.g., PB Blaster), wire brush, rags
- Description: Lubricant to loosen rusted bolts; brush to clean threads.
- Use: Soak fasteners before trying to remove; brush and clean threads before installing new hardware.
- Impact wrench (air or electric — optional but useful)
- Description: Power tool that delivers high torque to speed up removing stubborn bolts.
- Use: Hold firmly and use appropriate sockets; final torque must be checked with a torque wrench.
- Allen key or hex bit set (if needed for some strut designs)
- Description/use: Some top strut mounts or internal bolts require hex bits.
- Brake line holder / zip ties
- Description: To temporarily hold brake lines/ABS wiring away from moving parts when strut is removed.
- Use: Secure lines so they are not stretched or damaged.
- Replacement hardware kit (nuts, bolts, washers) — recommended
- Description: New grade-appropriate fasteners for the strut mount and lower bolts.
- Use: Replace any stretched or corroded bolts; use new nuts/bolts where the factory manual specifies one-time-use.

- Additional safety details for the tools
- Spring compressor: Very dangerous if misused. Compress evenly, check for damage to compressor, never go under a spring being held only by a compressor, and wear eye protection. If unsure, buy a preassembled unit.
- Jack and jack stands: Use stands rated for the truck’s weight. Place stands on solid ground, not on soft soil.
- Torque wrench: Do not use as a breaker bar. Use within its specified range and re-calibrate occasionally.

- Parts that may need replacement and why
- Complete preassembled strut assembly (preferred for beginners)
- Why: Arrives with spring, mount, bearing, and shock pre-installed; avoids use of spring compressor and ensures correct assembly.
- Strut cartridge or shock absorber (if replacing only the damper)
- Why: Worn damping results in poor ride, excessive bounce, or fluid leaks.
- Upper strut mount / bearing / strut top plate
- Why: Worn mounts cause noise, looseness, or steering wander; bearings affect steering smoothness.
- Coil spring (if cracked, sagging, or corroded)
- Why: Damaged or weak spring affects ride height and handling — replace to restore correct geometry.
- Dust boot and bump stop
- Why: Protect the strut shaft from dirt and prevent bottoming out; replace if torn or degraded.
- Lower bolts/nuts / studs and washers
- Why: Fasteners can stretch, corrode, or be specified as single-use torque-to-yield items; replace if damaged.
- Sway bar end links, ball joint/tie rod ends, control arm bushings (inspect and replace as needed)
- Why: You may remove or stress these parts during the job; worn parts will degrade performance and should be replaced while the wheel is off.
- Wheel alignment (not a part but required after replacement)
- Why: Changing struts alters camber/caster/toe; a professional alignment is necessary for safe handling and even tire wear.

- General step-by-bullet-step procedure (high-level, for a beginner)
- Prepare vehicle: chock wheels, loosen front wheel lug nuts slightly, lift front end with trolley jack, place jack stands securely, remove wheels.
- Inspect area and soak fasteners: apply penetrating oil to nuts/bolts that attach strut to knuckle and top mount bolts; wait a few minutes.
- Disconnect any brackets: remove brake line/ABS sensor brackets from the strut to avoid stretching lines; secure lines out of the way with zip ties.
- Remove sway bar end link if it connects to the strut assembly and prevents lowering the strut.
- Remove lower strut-to-knuckle bolts: use breaker bar or impact; you may need to support the knuckle or control arm to prevent sudden drop when bolts remove.
- Remove upper strut mount nuts (from inside engine bay or strut tower): access may require turning steering to get to bolts; keep hand on strut to prevent it dropping when top nuts come off.
- Remove strut assembly: lower it out carefully. If spring is still on the strut and you plan to reuse pieces, use a spring compressor before removing the top nut.
- If building from parts: compress spring evenly with spring compressor, remove top nut and mount, swap strut cartridge/damper, and reassemble carefully, releasing compressor evenly.
- If using a preassembled strut: transfer any reusable brackets and install the new assembly. Fit the top into the strut tower first, loosely thread upper nuts.
- Reattach lower strut to knuckle: align holes and install bolts loosely. Torque to factory spec only after both upper and lower fasteners are correctly positioned.
- Reconnect sway bar link, brake line/ABS brackets, and any sensors. Replace any damaged hardware.
- Torque all fasteners to factory specifications using a torque wrench (consult Hino workshop manual for exact values). Reinstall wheels and torque lug nuts to spec.
- Lower vehicle from stands, re-torque lug nuts, and perform a road test at low speeds to confirm normal behavior.
- Get a professional wheel alignment immediately after strut replacement.

- How to use the spring compressor safely (if you must)
- Choose a compressor rated for the spring size on your truck.
- Fit clamps or hooks securely on opposite sides of the spring coils.
- Tighten each side a little at a time, alternating sides to compress evenly; never compress one side only.
- Keep body parts and face out of the spring plane.
- Only remove the top nut once the spring tension is fully released and the strut mount can be removed by hand.
- If the spring compressor shows any binding, bending, or slippage, stop and replace the tool.

- Why a shop manual or factory torque specs are required
- Specific torque values, fastener lengths, and safety notes vary by model/year. Incorrect torque can fail structurally or lead to loss of control. Always consult the Hino workshop manual or official torque chart for exact values.

- When to get professional help
- If you must use a spring compressor and have no prior experience.
- If fasteners are seized or components are badly corroded.
- For final wheel alignment and if unusual noises or handling appear after replacement.

- Practical beginner recommendations (to reduce risk)
- Buy complete preassembled strut assemblies for both front sides and replace in pairs to keep balanced handling.
- Replace associated mounts and dust boots at the same time.
- Use new fasteners where the manual recommends and always torque to spec.
- Have a friend assist for safety when handling heavy parts.

- Final notes (brief)
- Do not attempt to drive the vehicle without proper torque and alignment.
- Keep records of parts replaced and their fitment to ensure warranty coverage where applicable.
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