Summary first (what, why, analogies)
- What: Replacing the planetary gear set inside the automatic transmission of a Hino FD/FE/FF/SG/FA/FB family truck. The planetary set is the core gear cluster that produces the different gear ratios in an automatic transmission.
- Why: Replace when gears are worn, chipped, cracked, bearings failed, heavy metal contamination, excessive backlash, slippage, grinding noises, no-drive/limited-drive or repeated clutch burn. Think of it like the gearbox’s “gearbox inside a wheel hub” — if the sun/planet/ring gears are damaged the whole shifting system fails.
- Simple analogy: The planetary set is a tiny solar system — the sun gear in the center, planet gears orbiting on a carrier, and a ring gear around them. Holding one member stationary and driving another gives a different gear ratio — that’s how the transmission changes gears.

Do this only if you have: a clean, well-lit workshop, transmission jack and engine support, basic gear servicing tools, a shop manual for the exact model (for torque and clearance specs). If you don’t have the manual, do not guess torque/clearances.

Parts and components (detailed descriptions and function)
- Sun gear: small central gear. Input/output power may go through it depending on gear range. Central “sun” of the system.
- Planet gears (pinion gears): small gears that mesh with the sun gear and the ring gear; usually several mounted on a planet carrier. They steer power between sun and ring.
- Ring gear (annulus): large internal-toothed gear that encircles the planets. Can be held or driven to change ratios.
- Planet carrier: the structure that holds planet gears on shafts/bushings; it can be the output member or an element that gets braked/held for ratio changes.
- Planet shafts/pins (or needle pins): small cylindrical shafts or needle bearings that the planet gears rotate on.
- Needle/roller bearings: support around pins and planet bores to reduce friction and take radial loads.
- Thrust washers / thrust plates / spacer shims: thin metal wear surfaces between gears and carrier to control axial clearance and prevent metal-to-metal contact.
- Snap rings / circlips / retainers: hold gears/carrier in position axially.
- Splines/hubs: splined interfaces for transferring torque to/from input/output shafts and clutch hubs.
- Clutch packs (multiple friction plates & steel plates): engaged by hydraulic pistons to lock certain members (sun, ring, carrier) and change gear ratios; many planetary sets interface directly with specific clutch packs.
- Brake bands (if present): band wraps around drums to hold members stationary in some designs.
- Seals / O-rings / gaskets: keep hydraulic fluid in and dirt out; often replaced with the planetary assembly to avoid leaks.
- Carrier bolts / planet gear bolts / sun gear bolts: fasteners; some are torque-to-yield or have specific torque sequences.
- Transmission case halves / intermediate plates: the planetary sits inside the transmission case and indexes with these parts.
- Valve body / pistons / accumulator: not planet gears themselves, but the hydraulics that engage clutches and so, be careful during disassembly.

Tools and consumables you will need
- Factory workshop manual (for model-specific diagrams, torque specs, clearances).
- Transmission jack / heavy-duty floor jack and stands, or full lift.
- Basic hand tools: sockets, ratchets, extensions, breaker bar, combination wrenches.
- Torque wrench (accurate for specified torques).
- Snap ring pliers (internal/external).
- Bearing puller / gear puller / press (hydraulic press or arbor press) for removing bearings or gears.
- Dial indicator with magnetic base (to measure backlash and endplay).
- Feeler gauges / plastigage (for checking clearances if required).
- Micrometers / vernier caliper (measure part wear, shim thickness).
- Punches, soft-faced hammer, drift.
- Clean solvent, parts cleaner, lint-free rags, compressed air.
- Assembly lube (transmission assembly grease) and new transmission fluid.
- New parts kit: planetary set, bearings, thrust washers, snap rings, seals, gaskets, possibly clutch plates and pump seals — replace wear items, not just the gears.
- Thread locker (if specified), anti-seize (if specified).
- Safety equipment: gloves, eye protection, steel-toe boots.

Symptoms that tell you the planetary set is suspect
- Metal flakes/magnetic plug heavily contaminated with metal in ATF.
- Grinding/roaring noises coming from transmission or when under load.
- Clutch slippage (engine revs without expected vehicle response).
- Loss of certain gears or stuck in one gear.
- Harsh, delayed, or slipping shift patterns.
- Overheating fluid / burnt smell.
- Excessive play/backlash audible when rotating input/output.

Before you start: safety & checklist
- Read the workshop manual and note all torque and clearance specs.
- Disconnect battery and relieve any compressed circuits.
- Secure vehicle on a level surface and block wheels.
- Drain transmission fluid into a clean container and either recycle or keep separate if you want to inspect it.
- Mark or photograph everything during removal so reassembly orientation is identical.

High-level procedure (step-by-step). Follow the manual for model-specific steps and bolt patterns.

1) Remove transmission from vehicle (recommended)
- Disconnect battery.
- Remove driveshaft(s), prop shafts, and exhaust components if required for access.
- Label and disconnect all electrical connectors, cooling lines, speed sensors, shift linkage, parking pawl linkage, and any vacuum/hydraulic lines.
- Remove starter if it blocks bell housing bolts.
- Support engine if needed and support the transmission with a transmission jack.
- Unbolt torque converter to flexplate (if applicable). For automatics, remove the torque converter bolts through the inspection cover or after separating the trans from engine.
- Unbolt the bell housing to engine and lower the transmission slowly on the jack.

Note: On some jobs you can remove the tail housing and access planetary sets with the transmission on the bench. But full removal is safer and clearer.

2) Bench prep & initial strip
- Secure transmission on a sturdy bench in a clean area.
- Remove pan, valve body, and oil strainer (if not already removed) — follow manual for the correct order to avoid spring release.
- Mark valve body orientation to avoid damage to valves/bolts.
- Slowly remove case bolts and separate case halves if replacement requires tearing down to the planets. Use care to avoid damaging gaskets and to preserve shim/stack order; take many photos and label components.

3) Accessing the planetary set
- Remove clutch pack assemblies and drums which may sit around or adjacent to the planetary set. Keep plates in order and note orientation and count.
- Remove retaining snap rings, bolts, and then lift out the planetary carrier assembly. Some planet carriers are retained by a large snap ring or carrier bolts.
- Use a press/puller as needed to remove bearings or sun gear from shafts.

4) Disassembly of planetary assembly
- Remove planet pin retaining bolts or roll pins, extract planet gears, note each gear’s position and orientation.
- Remove sun gear (if separate) and ring gear if necessary.
- Inspect thrust washers around carrier & sun gear and note their thickness and wear pattern.

5) Inspection (do not skip)
- Gears: check teeth for pitting, chipped teeth, scoring, heat discoloration. Replace if any damage.
- Bearings: check for smooth operation, pitting, looseness. Replace bearings with any sign of wear.
- Thrust washers: check for scoring or grooves; replace if worn beyond spec.
- Splines: check for wear on splines and hubs — excessively worn splines cause slippage.
- Snap rings: often replace as a matter of course; they can be spring-formed and lose strength.
- Housing bores and carrier: check for cracks, distortion.
- Fluid: examine the drained fluid and pan magnet for metal particles; identify types of particles (copper from clutches, steel from gears/bearings).
- Clearances: measure gear backlash and endplay. Use dial indicator to measure ring gear runout and sun/planet backlash relative to the carrier. Record measurements and compare to manual — if out of spec, either install correct-thickness thrust washers/shims or replace parts.

6) Replace parts and prepare the new assembly
- Replace entire planetary set and associated bearings, thrust washers, seals, snap rings and any single-use fasteners.
- Clean mating surfaces and cases thoroughly. Remove all old gasket material. Blow out oil passages.
- Pre-lube bearings, gear teeth and thrust surfaces with assembly lube or fresh transmission fluid before reassembly.
- If shims/thrust washers are required to achieve specified endplay or backlash, fit the correct thickness. Keep track of shim stack and orientation.

7) Reassembly (order and checkpoints)
- Install sun gear and planet gears onto carrier pins with new bearings/bushings.
- Reinstall planet carrier into case and re-fit snap rings/clips. Ensure they seat fully into grooves.
- Install ring gear if separate, checking proper orientation of any alignment marks. Ensure ring gear bolts torque to spec in correct pattern.
- Reassemble clutch drums and friction packs in original order. Wet friction plates should be soaked in ATF before installation.
- Reinstall valve body and accumulator components per manual, replacing gaskets and cleaning mating surfaces.
- Reinstall oil strainer and pan with new gasket / sealer.

8) Measuring clearances after assembly
- With the case together, check ring gear backlash to sun and rotational play of the carrier using a dial indicator. Check axial endplay where required. If backlash or endplay out of spec, address by changing thrust washer thickness or rechecking assembly.
- Check component torque values: carrier bolts, ring gear bolts, etc. Use a calibrated torque wrench. If manual calls for bolt sequences, follow them.

9) Reinstall transmission
- Use transmission jack to raise transmission back to engine and align torque converter to flexplate. Rotate torque converter to locate bolt holes, secure to flexplate.
- Torque bell housing bolts, torque converter bolts, driveshaft bolts, and other connections to spec.
- Reconnect cooler lines, sensors, electrical connectors, shift linkages, and other components.
- Refill with correct type and quantity of ATF specified by Hino (consult the manual). Do not overfill.

10) Break-in and testing
- Warm up engine and circulate fluid, check for leaks, check fluid level per manual procedure (engine running, transmission in park/neutral — follow model specifics).
- Perform shift checks with the vehicle on jack stands first: observe hydraulic response, listen for noises, check for leaks.
- Road test under light load, avoiding hard acceleration for the initial break-in period. Re-check fluid and leaks after short operation, then again after 50–200 km depending on manual.
- Monitor for any irregular noise, slipping, or overheating.

What can go wrong (common failure modes and repair mistakes)
- Incorrect backlash/endplay: too much causes noise and premature gear tooth failure; too little causes binding, overheating, and rapid wear.
- Missing or reversed thrust washers/shims: can ruin clearances and cause catastrophic failure shortly after reassembly.
- Not replacing worn bearings or seals: bearings fail quickly and contaminate new parts; seals cause fluid loss and improper hydraulic pressure.
- Reusing damaged snap rings or bolts: they can fail under load.
- Improper torque on carrier or ring bolts: leads to loosening or distortion and gear contact problems. Some bolts are stretch bolts and must be replaced.
- Contaminants: dirt or grit in assembly leads to scoring of smooth surfaces and valve body problems.
- Failure to replace clutch friction plates if carriers/clutches show wear: new gears with old clutches often still slip.
- Valve body or hydraulic piston damage during removal: causes shifting issues after reassembly.
- Pump or torque converter problems not addressed: low pump pressure or torque converter seal leaks will mask or cause planetary problems.
- Not following specified break-in: heavy load too soon can burn clutches or mis-seat new parts.

Tips, important checks and tricks for beginners
- Photograph every stage and label stacks of plates/bearings. Transmission components are highly order-sensitive.
- Keep bolts and small parts separated and labeled; maintain orientation of parts.
- Replace all seals/gaskets and consider replacing other wear items (pump seals, cooler lines, valve body gaskets) while accessible.
- Don’t try to “tweak” clearances by guessing shim thicknesses — measure and use factory specs.
- Always soak friction plates in ATF before installation.
- Cleanliness is critical — small metal or grit will destroy a transmission quickly.
- When in doubt, replace bearings, thrust washers and snap rings as inexpensive insurance.

When to bring in a professional or replace rather than repair
- If the case or carrier is cracked or heavily scored.
- If you can’t measure or achieve required clearances because parts are beyond salvage.
- If you lack a press, torque tools, dial indicator or a transmission jack — these parts are heavy and precise.
- If valve body/hydraulics might be damaged and you don’t have the diagnostic tools to verify pressures.

Final note (short, direct)
- This is a precision job: follow the Hino workshop manual for exact bolt torques, backlash and endplay specs, and fluid types/volumes. Replace bearings, thrust washers, seals and snap rings as a set, keep everything clean, measure clearances with a dial indicator, and torque bolts to spec. Proper planning, cleanliness and measuring are what separates a long-lived repair from a repeat job.

No more questions — follow the manual, work methodically, and replace the whole kit of wear items when servicing planetary gears.
rteeqp73

Inspeccion diario Camion hino Inspeccion diario Camion hino.

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