- Safety first
- Wear eye protection, chemical-resistant gloves, and work clothes; hydraulic fluid can irritate skin and eyes and damage paint.
- Park on level ground, engage parking brake, chock rear wheels, and block the wheels on the opposite end of the vehicle.
- Never rely on a hydraulic jack alone — always use rated jack stands on the manufacturer’s recommended lift points.
- Keep a fire extinguisher and plenty of clean rags handy; hydraulic fluid is slippery and flammable.

- Tools — what they are and how to use them
- Metric socket set (including deep sockets)
- What: Ratchet handle with metric sockets (8–24 mm range common).
- How to use: Pick the correct socket, push onto the ratchet square, place on fastener, pull with steady force. Use deep sockets for recessed bolts. Good for mounting bolts and bracket nuts.
- Combination wrench set (metric)
- What: Open-ended and boxed-end wrenches in metric sizes.
- How to use: Use boxed end for better grip on nuts; open end when clearance is tight. Match size to fastener to avoid rounding.
- Flare-nut (line) wrench
- What: Wrench with a nearly-closed end that grips hydraulic line fittings.
- How to use: Position over the hydraulic union/banjo fitting and turn slowly; prevents rounding the soft fitting.
- Torque wrench (click type)
- What: Wrench calibrated to deliver a specific torque.
- How to use: Set desired torque, tighten fastener until wrench clicks; essential for critical mounting bolts and banjo/bleeder bolt torque. If you don’t have exact spec, fit parts hand-tight then consult manual before final torque.
- Screwdrivers (flat and Phillips)
- What: Standard screwdrivers.
- How to use: Use to remove clips, small screws, and pry plastic retainers gently.
- Pliers (needle-nose and adjustable)
- What: Grip, hold, and remove clips or cotter pins.
- How to use: Use needle-nose for small clips; adjustable pliers for stubborn parts. Protect surfaces with rag if needed.
- Hydraulic jack and rated jack stands
- What: Floor jack plus stands rated above vehicle weight.
- How to use: Lift at manufacturer jacking points, lower onto stands, verify stability before working underneath.
- Drain pan (large)
- What: Tray to catch hydraulic fluid.
- How to use: Place under work area to catch fluid from disconnected lines.
- Bleeding kit (hand pump vacuum bleeder or one-way clear hose and bottle)
- What: Device to draw or route fluid from bleeder valve to remove air.
- How to use: Attach clear hose to bleeder, operate pump or pedal with helper to draw fluid/air out until clear fluid flows.
- Brake/clutch fluid (DOT specified by Hino; usually DOT 3/4)
- What: New hydraulic fluid to refill and bleed system.
- How to use: Keep reservoir capped when not working, top up during bleeding, avoid contamination with water or other fluids.
- Line plug or small bolt & rag
- What: To temporarily plug the hydraulic line if needed to limit fluid loss.
- How to use: Cap line quickly when open to reduce spillage and air ingress.
- Penetrating oil and wire brush
- What: Loosens rusted bolts and cleans mating surfaces.
- How to use: Soak seized bolts, tap to work in, brush clean threads before removal/installation.
- Hammer and punch (rubber mallet preferred)
- What: Gentle persuasion for stuck components.
- How to use: Use rubber mallet to avoid damage; use punch for pins only if necessary.
- Replacement sealing washers/crush washers or banjo bolt kit
- What: New copper/alu washers for banjo fittings.
- How to use: Always replace crush washers on banjo bolts to prevent leaks.
- Clean rags and brake parts cleaner
- What: Clean surfaces and remove residue.
- How to use: Spray and wipe to clean, ensure no cleaner remains on friction surfaces.
- Optional but strongly recommended: vacuum/pressure bleeder or a second person
- Why: Makes bleeding easier and faster and reduces trapped air.

- Parts that may need replacement (what, why, and what to buy)
- Clutch slave cylinder assembly (recommended)
- Why: Worn or leaking slave cylinder causes poor pedal feel, sponginess, fluid loss, or no clutch disengagement.
- What to buy: Exact OEM or equivalent slave cylinder for Hino FD/FE/FF/SG/FA/FB series (match part number to VIN/chassis). Buy the full assembly (cylinder, pushrod, dust boot, bleeder screw) where available.
- Clutch master cylinder (inspect; replace if leaking or internal failure)
- Why: If master cylinder leaks or has internal seals gone, replacing only slave will not cure pedal issues.
- What to buy: OEM master cylinder rebuild kit or full master cylinder as required.
- Hydraulic line, hoses, fittings, banjo bolt and crush washers
- Why: Hardened or leaking lines cause loss of pressure and introduce air.
- What to buy: Replace worn flexible hose or banjo assembly; always replace crush washers on banjo bolts.
- Clutch release bearing / throwout bearing (inspect if transmission removed)
- Why: If transmission must be dropped to reach an internal concentric slave, inspect bearing — noisy or rough bearing should be replaced.
- What to buy: Compatible release bearing for your engine/clutch assembly.
- Clutch disc, pressure plate, pilot bearing (inspect if transmission removed)
- Why: If clutch is worn, replacing just slave cylinder is temporary; noises or slipping mean clutch overhaul.
- What to buy: Full clutch kit matching vehicle application if overhaul needed.
- Bleeder screw (replace if corroded)
- Why: Stripped or seized bleeder screws make bleeding impossible.
- What to buy: Correct-size bleeder screw/bleeder valve.

- Preparations before you start
- Gather tools, parts, and proper DOT fluid for your Hino; buy supplier-specified slave cylinder by VIN/chassis.
- Park, chock wheels, disconnect negative battery terminal to avoid electrical short while working near starter/solenoid.
- Locate clutch slave cylinder (consult vehicle manual or look at transmission bellhousing area; some models have external slave, some concentric internal).
- Place drain pan under area and remove any components blocking access (airbox, battery tray, splash shield) using sockets/wrenches.

- Removal procedure (generalized, follow vehicle manual where available)
- Depressurize system by slightly loosening bleeder first with line on and hand — be ready to catch fluid; or cap hydraulic line quickly after disconnect.
- Use flare-nut wrench to disconnect hydraulic line at slave cylinder; cap line to reduce fluid loss and air entry.
- Remove mounting bolts using appropriate socket/wrench; use penetrating oil if seized.
- Pull slave cylinder away from bellhousing; support it to avoid stretching/disconnecting hoses by force.
- Remove banjo bolt (if applicable) and replace crush washers. Catch all fluid in drain pan.
- Inspect line fittings and threads; clean with wire brush.
- If slave is concentric (inside bellhousing) and requires transmission removal, follow safe procedure or seek professional help — this step is advanced and requires transmission support and alignment.

- Installation procedure (generalized)
- Prepare new slave: ensure dust boot and pushrod installed; swap bleeder screw if necessary.
- Install new crush washers on banjo fitting; position new slave against mounting face.
- Hand-start mounting bolts to avoid thread cross; tighten to manufacturer torque using torque wrench.
- Reconnect hydraulic line using flare-nut wrench; ensure fittings are properly seated and tighten to spec or snug plus quarter-turn as manual directs.
- Reconnect any removed brackets, covers, or sensors; reinstall any removed components in reverse order of removal.
- Clean spilled fluid immediately — it damages paint and rubber.

- Bleeding the clutch hydraulic system
- Fill the clutch master reservoir with specified DOT fluid.
- Use one of these methods to bleed:
- With helper: Have helper pump pedal several times and hold it down. Open bleeder with wrench to let fluid/air escape until clear, then close bleeder, repeat until no air and pedal firm.
- Vacuum bleeder: Attach vacuum pump to bleeder, open bleeder, draw fluid until clear, top up reservoir as needed.
- Pressure bleeder: Pressurize reservoir and open bleeder until clear fluid flows; follow device instructions.
- Keep reservoir topped up during bleeding to prevent new air entry.
- After bleeding, pedal should feel firm and consistent. Tighten bleeder to proper torque.

- Testing and final checks
- With vehicle still on stands, start engine and cycle pedal to verify clutch engagement/disengagement; if transmission removed earlier, double-check alignment/time before driving.
- Check for leaks at fittings, banjo bolt, bleeder, and around master cylinder.
- Lower vehicle safely from stands and perform slow road test in a safe area, checking shifting and clutch return.
- Re-torque mounting bolts after initial road test if vehicle manufacturer recommends.

- Common issues, traps, and when to replace additional parts
- Persistent spongy pedal after correct bleeding: suspect master cylinder, air trapped in line, or internal clutch hydraulics failure. Replace master cylinder or inspect lines.
- Visible fluid leak at slave or line: replace leaking part and crush washers immediately.
- Seized bleeder screw: replace bleeder and consider tapping or helicoiling if threads damaged.
- If transmission had to be removed to get to slave, inspect clutch disc, pressure plate, and release bearing — replace if worn to avoid redoing the job.
- If unsure of whether slave is external or concentric/inboard, consult your Hino workshop manual or parts diagram — incorrect assumption can require dropping transmission, adding many hours to job.

- Why some extra tools are required
- Flare-nut wrench prevents rounding soft hydraulic fittings — an ordinary wrench will often strip them.
- Torque wrench ensures bolts and banjo fittings are tightened to spec to prevent leaks or broken bolts.
- Vacuum/pressure bleeder reduces time and ensures thorough air removal; hand-bleeding can leave trapped air if you’re inexperienced.
- Jack stands and transmission jack (if removing trans) are required for safety and to handle heavy components — you cannot safely and correctly do this with a floor jack alone.

- Final practical notes
- Buy the slave cylinder that exactly matches your chassis/VIN; OEM or high-quality aftermarket with proper warranty.
- Keep spare crush washers, a new bleeder screw, and extra fluid on hand.
- Dispose of used hydraulic fluid and contaminated rags per local hazardous-waste rules.

- Immediate safety reminder
- If at any point the work requires dropping the transmission or dealing with engine alignment, consider professional help — those steps require specialized tools and experience.

- Quick checklist to bring to the job (tools + parts)
- Socket and wrench sets, flare-nut wrench, torque wrench, jack + stands, drain pan, brake/clutch fluid, replacement slave cylinder, crush washers, bleed kit, penetrating oil, rags, PPE.

- No extra questions asked; follow the service manual for torque specs and model-specific procedures.
rteeqp73

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