- Safety first
- Wear chemical-resistant gloves and safety glasses to protect from hot coolant, sharp edges and debris.
- Work only when the engine is cold. Hot coolant and pressurized systems can cause severe burns.
- Park on a flat surface, set the parking brake, and chock wheels. If you must raise the truck, use a heavy-duty jack and rated jack stands or ramps rated for the vehicle weight; never rely on the jack alone.
- Keep pets and children away; used coolant is toxic.

- What this job means (brief)
- You will drain enough coolant to remove the hose, loosen and remove the hose clamps, remove the old hose, fit a correct replacement hose and clamps, refill and bleed the cooling system, then check for leaks and correct level.

- Common replacement parts you may need and why
- Radiator/upper/lower molded coolant hose(s) — hoses go hard, crack, collapse, swell or split with age and heat; replace any hose with visible damage or >5–10 years age. Use OEM part matched to your Hino model/year or a direct-fit aftermarket molded hose.
- Hose clamps — spring or worm-gear clamps lose tension or corrode; always replace worn clamps. Use the same type as original (spring clamps for vibrations; worm clamps for fixed flanges).
- O-rings/gaskets at thermostat housing or pipe joints — if disturbed or leaking, replace to ensure a proper seal.
- Thermostat or water pump — inspect for leaks or bad operation; replace if leaking or if system symptoms (overheat, poor circulation) were present before hose work.
- Coolant — mix and type per Hino spec (usually ethylene glycol based; check owner or service manual for concentration and spec).

- Tools you will need (detailed descriptions and how to use them)
- Drain pan (large, shallow) — sits under radiator drain to catch coolant. Place before opening drain petcock. Tilt forward to pour used coolant into a sealed container for recycling.
- Adjustable wrench (crescent) — movable jaw wrench for bolts/nuts of varied sizes. Set jaw snug on nut, pull handle toward you to avoid slipping. Good for drain petcock if no correct-size socket.
- Socket set with ratchet and extensions (metric sizes common) — for removing hose retention bolts, thermostat housing bolts, or clamps with bolts. Choose the correct socket size, seat fully on fastener, and turn smoothly.
- Torque wrench (click type, metric) — for re-tightening bolts to proper torque (recommended for thermostat housing/pipe bolts). Set to spec from manual and tighten until click.
- Screwdrivers (flat and Phillips) — for worm-gear hose clamps or panel removal. Use correct sized tip; turn gently to avoid stripping.
- Hose clamp pliers (or locking pliers/large slip-joint pliers) — designed to compress spring-type clamps. If using slip-joint pliers, get good grip and keep clamp compressed while sliding it back.
- Needle-nose pliers — for small clips and to help remove hose from fittings.
- Hose pick / flat-blade hose removal tool — hooked or tapered plastic/metal tool used to break the seal between hose and pipe, then twist and pull hose off. Avoid gouging metal pipe.
- Utility knife or hose cutter — to cut old hose if stuck (cut longitudinally and peel off). Cut carefully to avoid damaging fitting surfaces.
- Wire brush / emery cloth — clean mating surfaces and pipe barb from corrosion/old gasket residue.
- Funnel and clean container for coolant — to refill system and avoid spills.
- Shop rags and absorbent pads — for cleanup and to catch drips.
- Work light — improves visibility in engine bay and undertruck.
- Jack and jack stands or ramps (if under-access required) — rated to vehicle weight. Use correct placement points; raise and then support with stands.
- Caliper or measuring tape (optional) — to confirm replacement hose length/diameter if buying universal hose.

- Why some extra tools are required
- Hose pick and hose cutter make stuck hoses removable without damaging metal fittings; without them you risk needing to replace pipes or housings.
- Hose clamp pliers make spring clips simple and safer; standard pliers can slip and injure or lose clamp into engine bay.
- Torque wrench is required to avoid over- or under-tightening bolts that secure housings — incorrect torque can cause leaks or damage.

- Preparing the truck
- Ensure engine is cold and parked on level ground; chock wheels and apply parking brake.
- Locate the specific hose(s): upper radiator hose (radiator to thermostat/engine), lower hose (radiator to water pump), heater hoses, bypass hoses. Match to service manual diagram or take photos for reassembly.
- Place drain pan under radiator or under the hose connection you will open.

- Draining coolant (how to)
- Open the radiator cap only after confirming engine cold, then open the drain petcock at the bottom of radiator or remove lower hose at radiator end to drain. Use adjustable wrench or socket if petcock has a hex head.
- Collect coolant in a sealable container for proper disposal/recycling. Do not pour on ground or down drains.
- Close drain petcock once drained enough to avoid more spillage during work.

- Removing the old hose (step process in bullets)
- Identify clamp types and position: move clamp away from connection end (toward hose body) using hose clamp pliers for spring clamps or screwdriver for worm clamps.
- If clamp is seized or corroded, cut it off with a utility cutter and replace with new clamp.
- Use hose pick or flat-blade tool to break the seal where hose meets fitting: insert between hose and fitting, twist gently to lift and break the bond.
- Twist the hose while pulling off. If it won’t move, cut the hose lengthwise with a utility knife and peel out in sections to avoid damaging the metal fitting.
- Clean the fitting with wire brush or emery cloth to remove corrosion, old gasket, and ensure a smooth sealing surface. Check for pitting or deep corrosion; if present, replacement of the pipe or fitting may be required.

- Inspect components and decide if more parts are needed
- Check hose ends and mating pipes for corrosion, pitting or cracks. Replace any pipe assembly or fitting that is badly corroded.
- Replace any hose that is soft, spongy, collapsed, hardened, cracked, or has bulges — even if only at one spot.
- Replace clamps that are corroded, stretched or lose tension.
- Inspect thermostat housing, water pump housing, and heater control valve for leaks. If leaking, replace gasket or the component as required.
- If the cooling system previously overheated or showed poor circulation, consider replacing thermostat and testing the water pump.

- Installing the new hose (how to)
- Verify the new hose matches the old one in shape, length and diameter. If using a universal silicone hose, ensure bend radii don’t kink and the hose is rated for coolant.
- Slide clamps onto hose before fitting (so you don’t forget).
- Soften the hose end slightly (short soak in hot water or use silicon spray—avoid petroleum-based lubricants) to ease fitting onto pipe.
- Push the hose fully onto the barb or fitting until it seats against the stop. Rotate slightly while pushing for easier fit.
- Position the clamp about 6–12 mm (1/4–1/2 inch) back from the end of the hose, over the reinforced bead on the fitting. For spring clamps, place on the bead so compression is centered.
- Tighten worm-gear clamps so they are snug but not cutting into the hose: tighten until clamp is secure and hose does not twist—typically hand-tight plus a small additional turn with screwdriver; avoid over-tightening (no crushing). For bolts on housings, use torque wrench to the manual’s torque spec if available.

- Refilling and bleeding the cooling system
- Reinstall drain petcock and close securely.
- Refill radiator and overflow reservoir with specified coolant mix using a funnel. Fill slowly to allow trapped air to escape.
- If your Hino model has bleed screws (bleeders) on the cylinder head or thermostat housing, open them slightly while filling until a steady stream of coolant (no air) appears, then close.
- Start the engine with the radiator cap off and heater set to hot and blower on low; run until thermostat opens and coolant circulates. Watch coolant level and top up as air is expelled.
- Squeeze upper hoses carefully (with pliers or by hand with gloves) to help force trapped air out while refill continues—do not overfill.
- When temperature stabilizes and no more bubbles come out, top off coolant and install the radiator cap.
- Drive the truck for a short distance to operating temperature, then recheck level cold and retighten any clamps if required.

- Leak check and final steps
- With engine at operating temperature and parked, inspect all hose connections for leaks.
- Check under the truck for drips. Re-torque hose clamps if necessary.
- Dispose of old coolant and contaminated rags at a recycler or hazardous waste facility. Do not dump.

- Common beginner mistakes and how to avoid them
- Working on a hot engine — always wait until fully cold.
- Reusing stretched clamps — replace clamps if they don’t spring back or if screw threads are corroded.
- Cutting or gouging the metal fitting when removing hose — use the hose pick and cut the hose, not the fitting.
- Forgetting to bleed air — causes hot spots and overheating.
- Using the wrong hose shape or diameter — always match original molded hose or confirm fit before final installation.

- When to seek professional help
- If hose fittings or metal pipes are badly corroded or damaged.
- If leaks persist after replacement or overheating continues.
- If you cannot safely lift and support the truck to access hoses underneath.

- Final checks after first few runs
- Recheck coolant level when engine cold and top up.
- Inspect for leaks after first 50–100 km (30–60 miles).
- Keep records of parts used (part numbers, clamp sizes) for future maintenance.

- Helpful extra tips
- Photograph hose routing before removal to ensure correct reassembly.
- Label coolant hoses if multiple similar hoses are present.
- Use OEM parts matched to VIN for guaranteed fit on Hino FD/FE/FF/SG/FA/FB series.

- Disposal and environmental note
- Collect used coolant in a sealed container and take to an approved recycling or hazardous-waste facility. Coolant is toxic to people, animals and the environment.


rteeqp73

How to Replace A Hino Truck Transmission- How To CHANGE Gearbox OF A HinoTruck || How to Replace A TRUCK Transmission- How to Change Gearbox OF A Truck|| #TruckTransmission #GearboxRepair.

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