Quick statement up front: many Hino FD/FE/FF/SG/FA/FB medium‑duty trucks use diesel engines and therefore do NOT have a carburettor choke cable. If your truck actually has a petrol/carburettor cold‑start choke or an aftermarket/manual cold‑start cable, below is a full beginner‑friendly workshop‑style procedure — components, theory, step‑by‑step removal, installation, adjustment, tests, and common failure modes.

Parts & components — what everything is and what it does
- Choke lever (dash or side lever): the control you pull/push. Moves the cable inner wire.
- Inner cable (steel wire, sliding core): transmits motion from lever to choke plate.
- Outer sheath / conduit (split or continuous): supports the inner wire and anchors to stops so movement pushes/pulls choke arm instead of compressing cable.
- Sheath end ferrules / clamps / adjuster barrel: threaded or clamped fittings that anchor the sheath, and provide fine adjustment of cable length.
- Cable end fitting (barrel, ball, or fork): terminal on the inner wire that clips into the choke arm or lever.
- Choke arm / choke shaft (on carburettor or throttle body): mechanical arm on the carburettor that rotates the choke plate (butterfly) closed or open.
- Choke plate (butterfly): metal plate in the carb throat that reduces incoming air to richen mixture for cold starting.
- Return spring (on choke arm): biases the choke toward the open or closed position depending on design (commonly biases open for safety).
- Firewall grommet / routing clips: seal and protect the cable where it passes the body and hold routing away from heat and moving parts.
- Mounting bracket(s): hold sheath/ferrule in place at the carburettor and at the dash/firewall.
- Locknuts/jam nuts: lock the adjuster in place after setting.
- Bushings, clips, retention pins: secure the cable terminal to the choke arm.

Theory — why a choke cable exists and how the system works (simple analogy)
- Purpose: The choke makes the engine run richer (more fuel relative to air) for starting when the engine and fuel are cold. Analogy: when a room is cold, you close a window slightly so the heater’s warmth isn’t lost — the choke “closes” the air window so the fuel concentration rises and the engine lights easier.
- How it works: Pulling the cable rotates the choke arm to partially close the choke plate, restricting air and causing a stronger vacuum signal on the carb jets so more fuel is drawn. Releasing the cable opens the choke gradually until normal operation.
- Cable mechanics: The inner wire slides inside the sheath. The sheath must be anchored at both ends so sliding the inner wire moves the choke arm rather than compressing the sheath.

Tools & materials
- Socket set and metric spanners (8–17 mm common)
- Phillips and flat screwdrivers
- Needle‑nose pliers
- Adjustable pliers
- Cutting pliers/wire cutters
- Small file or wire brush (for cleaning)
- Spray penetrating oil (WD‑40 or similar)
- Light grease or cable lubricant (white lithium or silicon lube)
- Replacement choke cable and grommet (OEM or exact length + correct fittings)
- Zip ties and clamps
- Bench vice or pliers (for crimping ferrule if fitting new)
- Rags, gloves, safety glasses
- Service manual/diagram for routing if available

Safety first
- If diesel, there may be glow plugs and fuel systems — disconnect the negative battery terminal before working on electrical if needed.
- Work on a cool engine to avoid burns; be careful routing cable away from exhaust manifold and turbo heat.
- Keep hands clear of moving belts when testing with engine running.

Diagnosis — signs choke cable needs service
- Hard cold starts but fine when warm (choke not closing).
- Flooding/smell of fuel on start (choke stuck closed or too much travel).
- No change when pulling the lever (broken inner wire).
- Choke lever free‑spins or has excessive slack (frayed inner or stretched).
- Choke plate moves slowly or not at all (seized pivot or binding cable).

Step‑by‑step: remove old cable (or inspect) — follow this exact order
1. Prepare: Park on level ground, handbrake on, wheels chocked. Allow engine to cool. Disconnect negative battery if doing electrical work or if you’ll be manipulating near ignition wiring.
2. Expose cable ends: Remove the air cleaner assembly or ducting to access the carburettor/throttle body and choke arm. On dash models remove trim where the dash lever connects.
3. Note routing: Before pulling anything, trace the cable route from lever to carb and take photos or make marks so new cable follows same safe path away from hot or moving parts.
4. Loosen jam nuts: At the carburettor end, find the sheath adjuster and loosen the jam nut(s) so the sheath can slide.
5. Disconnect cable end: At the choke arm, remove clip/pin securing the cable end. If cable end is a barrel, pry the retainer out; for forked ends remove the securing clip. Keep small parts.
6. Remove sheath from bracket: Loosen any clamp bolts or remove the ferrule from its bracket. Remove firewall grommet if used.
7. Pull cable free: From either end, pull the inner wire and sheath free. If inner wire is frayed, wear gloves and handle carefully.
8. Inspect components: Check choke arm movement by hand—weak or rusted pivot needs cleaning/servicing. Inspect sheath for kinks, heat melt, frayed inner wire, and damaged ferrules.

Installing a new cable — routing, connecting, and anchoring
1. Route new cable: Use the same route; keep >50 mm distance from exhaust manifolds/turbo, and secure away from pulleys, fan, belts. Use existing clips or zip ties every 200–300 mm.
2. Fit firewall grommet and ferrule: Push the sheath ferrule into its bracket/grommet on firewall and at the carburettor anchor. Ensure seating is snug — sheath must not pull through.
3. Lubricate inner wire: Lightly grease or use cable lube inside sheath to prevent binding and extend life. Do NOT fill full of grease; a light coat is enough.
4. Attach cable end to choke arm: Place cable end into its retainer on the choke arm and secure with the original clip/pin. Make sure the end fits cleanly.
5. Anchor sheath and set initial adjuster: Thread the cable adjuster so there's a small amount of slack (see adjustment below). Tighten mounting bracket bolts so sheath cannot move when inner wire is pulled.
6. Reinstall air cleaner and trim pieces.

How to adjust (set correct free play and travel)
Goal: choke fully closed when lever in “on” position and fully open when lever is “off” without binding or over‑stretching the cable.

Static check method:
- With engine cold and ignition off, move the dash lever to CHOKE ON. Observe choke plate — it should be fully or appropriately closed. If it’s not, turn the adjuster in until the inner wire pulls enough to close the plate, but do not apply excessive preload on the choke arm or spring.
- Move the lever to CHOKE OFF. Plate should open smoothly and fully. If it stays partially closed, back off adjuster slightly.
- Typical free play: 1–3 mm of slack in the inner wire at the lever before you feel movement of the choke plate. If the system has specified travel, match to manual; otherwise aim for minimal slack but no tension when lever is released.

Dynamic (engine run) fine tuning:
1. Start engine cold with choke fully ON. If the engine floods (dies instantly, strong gasoline smell), open choke slightly.
2. As engine begins to run, slowly move choke toward OPEN until idle smooths and RPM stabilizes. If engine dies when choke opened fully, more choke is needed when very cold.
3. After warming to operating temperature, choke fully OPEN should yield smooth idle without smoke or roughness.

Testing after install
- Pull lever several times; choke should operate smoothly and return springs should close/open the plate reliably.
- Wiggle cable sheath to ensure no binding or contact with hot parts.
- Road test cold start and warm start; look for hesitation, stalling, or fuel smell.

Common problems and fixes (what can go wrong)
- Broken inner wire: Symptoms — lever pulls with no action. Fix — replace cable.
- Frayed wire: Causes jamming & sharper ends that cut grommets. Fix — replace cable and grommet; clean retained clip.
- Sheath crushed/kinked/oven‑baked near manifold: Causes binding or inner wire seizing. Fix — reroute away from heat or install heat shield and replace sheath.
- Seized choke plate / stiff pivot: Carb buildup varnish or corrosion prevents movement. Fix — remove choke shaft, clean with carb cleaner, lubricate pivot, replace spring if weak.
- Wrong routing / interference: Cable rubs on fan or belt causing eventual break. Fix — re‑route, clip away from moving parts.
- Over‑adjustment (choke always slightly closed): Causes rich running, black smoke, fouling plugs. Fix — back off adjuster until plate opens fully at warm engine.
- Too much slack (choke never closes): Hard cold starts. Fix — tighten adjuster to correct travel.
- Grommet missing or cut: Air leak causing lean condition or inconsistent choke travel. Fix — replace grommet and seal.
- Return spring broken or missing: Choke stays closed when released. Fix — replace spring or rebuild choke assembly.
- Heat damage to plastic liners: Install metal‑sheathed cable or heat guards.

Maintenance tips (long life)
- Lubricate cable annually or every inspection interval.
- Keep routing away from exhaust and tie down every 200–300 mm.
- Replace the grommet when replacing the cable.
- Inspect choke arm pivot and return spring; clean and lube as part of routine tune‑ups.

Quick troubleshooting cheat sheet
- Lever moves, plate doesn’t: cable end detached, broken inner wire, seized pivot.
- Plate moves but engine still hard to start cold: carb jets/float, mixture screw, or ignition issues — choke alone may not be the only cause.
- Engine floods when choke on: choke too closed, needle/jet stuck, or rich mixture; back off or check carb float level.
- Intermittent choke action: frayed/dirty cable binding in sheath or heat damage.

Final notes
- If your Hino is diesel, it will have no choke cable; diesel cold starting uses glow plugs or timers — don’t force a choke onto a diesel intake.
- Use an OEM cable or one matched in length and end fittings — incorrect length or wrong end will produce incorrect travel and problems.
- When in doubt about torque values, travel specs, or model‑specific parts, follow the factory workshop manual for your exact chassis/engine model.

Follow these steps and checks exactly and you’ll be able to replace, route, and correctly adjust a choke cable so it operates reliably and safely.
rteeqp73

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