- Safety first
- Wear safety glasses, gloves, steel-toe boots and hearing protection.
- Work on a flat surface, use rated jack stands and wheel chocks; never rely on a jack alone.
- Disconnect the battery before starting.
- Have a fire extinguisher rated for flammable liquids nearby if welding or using solvents.
- Consult the Hino workshop manual for torque specs and tolerances before tightening anything.

- Essential basic tools (what they are, how to use them)
- Metric socket set and ratchet
- Description: assortment of metric sockets (6–32 mm range) with a 1/4", 3/8", 1/2" drive ratchet and extensions.
- Use: remove and install hex head bolts and nuts. Use correct socket size to avoid rounding fasteners. Extensions let you reach recessed bolts.
- Combination wrench set (open-end/box-end)
- Description: metric wrenches sized to match truck hardware.
- Use: hold nut or bolt head where socket can't reach; box-end gives better grip for high torque.
- Torque wrench (click-type, 1/2" drive for drivetrain bolts)
- Description: calibrated wrench to apply a specified torque.
- Use: tighten gearbox mount, bellhousing and output flange bolts to factory torque specs. Essential to prevent over/under-tightening.
- Screwdrivers (flat and Phillips)
- Description: common sizes, both long and stubby.
- Use: remove small screws, pry electrical connectors gently.
- Pliers (slip-joint, needle-nose, locking/vice grips)
- Description: gripping and bending pliers and locking pliers.
- Use: hold parts, remove snap rings, crimp or remove hose clamps.
- Hammer and soft-faced mallet
- Description: steel hammer and rubber/nylon mallet.
- Use: gentle persuasion of parts; soft mallet prevents damage to machined surfaces.
- Punch and drift set
- Description: center punches, pin punches and chisels.
- Use: drive out roll pins, alignment of holes, tap bearings out gently.
- Pry bars
- Description: different lengths and flats.
- Use: separate gearbox from engine bellhousing, but use carefully to avoid prying on housings—support weight first.
- Breaker bar
- Description: long-handled non-ratcheting bar for high torque loosening.
- Use: break loose stubborn bolts safely without damaging ratchets.
- Allen/hex keys and Torx bits
- Description: internal-head fastener bits.
- Use: remove special-headed fasteners on bellhousing or internal covers.

- Workshop and heavy/precision tools you will likely need (why they are required)
- Transmission jack or engine hoist with transmission sling
- Description: low-profile jack with a cradle and swivel, or hoist to support and lower transmission safely.
- Use: support heavy gearbox weight during removal/installation. Required because gearboxes are heavy and awkward; improvised supports are dangerous.
- Floor jack and rated jack stands
- Description: hydraulic floor jack and heavy-duty stands (rated for vehicle weight).
- Use: lift vehicle and support safely while gearbox is removed.
- Hydraulic press (or arbor press)
- Description: bench-top press for pressing bearings on/off shafts.
- Use: remove/install bearings and bushings without damaging parts. Bearings are interference fit and cannot be removed by hammering.
- Bearing puller / gear puller set
- Description: internal and external pullers with legs and forcing screw.
- Use: pull gears, bearings, and sleeves off shafts.
- Dial indicator with magnetic base
- Description: precision instrument to measure runout, backlash and endplay.
- Use: measure gearbox backlash and shaft endfloat when reassembling to factory tolerances; critical for noise-free operation.
- Feeler gauge / plastigauge
- Description: thin steel blades for gap measurement; plastigauge for bearing clearance measurement.
- Use: check bearing clearances, bearing cap clearances and gear mesh clearance.
- Micrometer and calipers
- Description: precision measuring tools for shaft diameters and bore sizes.
- Use: verify wear and tolerances against manual specs.
- Thread chaser set and helicoil (thread repair) kit
- Description: taps/dies and coil inserts for repairing stripped threads.
- Use: repair damaged bolt holes in bellhousing/housing—common on gearbox housings; helicoil restores thread strength.
- Tap and die set, drill bits, drill press or drill gun
- Description: cutting new threads and drilling out damaged studs.
- Use: re-tap holes, drill broken studs for extraction or heli-coil installation.
- Snap-ring pliers (internal & external)
- Description: pliers sized to remove/install circlips.
- Use: remove internal retaining rings used on shafts and bearings.
- Seal drivers and bearing sleeves
- Description: correct-diameter drivers to install oil seals and bearings squarely.
- Use: press seals and bearings without distortion which causes leaks or premature failure.
- Cleaning equipment: parts washer or solvent tank, wire brushes, rags, compressed air
- Description: chemical parts cleaner and brushes.
- Use: degrease gearbox parts before inspection.
- Dye penetrant kit (crack detection)
- Description: visible/fluorescent penetrant, developer and cleaner.
- Use: inspect housing and mating surfaces for hairline cracks that require repair or replacement.
- MIG or TIG welder and grinder (or access to a machine shop)
- Description: arc welding equipment for aluminum or cast-iron repair.
- Use: weld repair of small cracks or broken mounting bosses. Requires skill—if inexperienced, take housing to shop.
- Line-boring / boring equipment or machine shop service
- Description: shop equipment to re-bore worn bearing journals to factory spec and align bores.
- Use: essential when welding or bearing bores are out-of-round. Accurate machining restores alignment; this is not a DIY item for most beginners.
- Bench vise and soft jaws
- Description: heavy vise for holding parts, with protective jaws to avoid marring.
- Use: secure housing and components during repair/press work.
- Sealant, Loctite and assembly grease/lube
- Description: silicone gasket maker, anaerobic thread locker, light assembly grease.
- Use: seal mating surfaces and secure bolts per manual instructions.
- Replacement fasteners and studs
- Description: new bolts and studs (preferably OEM or graded hardware).
- Use: reused bolts especially stretch-bolts can fail; replace when specified.

- Quick parts list you will almost certainly need to replace when opening the gearbox
- Gaskets and O-rings
- Reason: old gaskets distort and leak; cheap insurance to replace every sealing surface.
- Output/input shaft seals (oil seals)
- Reason: seals wear and leak; any seal disturbed should be replaced.
- Bearings (input, main, output, cluster)
- Reason: bearings commonly wear and cause noise; press-fit bearings are typically replaced, not reused.
- Synchronizer rings, cones and friction elements (if manual synchromesh unit)
- Reason: worn sync rings cause grinding and difficulty shifting; inspection usually dictates replacement.
- Bushings and thrust washers
- Reason: wear leads to endplay and mis-gear alignment; replace to restore correct clearances.
- Fasteners (bellhousing bolts, flange bolts, gearbox mount bolts)
- Reason: replace stretched or corroded bolts; some are single-use torque-to-yield types.
- Studs and dowels
- Reason: studs often corrode or break; damaged threads in housing are common and may need helicoils or inserts.
- Oil and filters (if fitted)
- Reason: replace gearbox oil after reassembly; drain, refill with correct spec oil.

- General procedure (overview for a beginner)
- Preparation and documentation
- Park vehicle on level surface, chock wheels, disconnect battery and drain gearbox oil into a catch pan.
- Photograph and label electrical connectors, linkages and shifter assemblies for correct reassembly.
- Obtain Hino FD/FE/FF/SG/FA/FB series workshop manual pages for gearbox removal, torque specs, lubrication types and clearances.
- Vehicle-level removal
- Support engine/transmission weight: use transmission jack or hoist, or support engine with engine support bar if needed.
- Remove driveshafts/propeller shafts and mark orientation for reassembly.
- Remove starter motor, clutch slave cylinder (or release hydraulics), shifter linkage, speedometer cable/sensor, electrical connectors and any crossmembers as required.
- Unbolt gearbox mount and bellhousing bolts; have a helper guide the box while you lower it slowly on a transmission jack.
- Bench disassembly
- Clean exterior of housing to reduce contamination.
- Remove covers, external housings and drain remaining fluid.
- Remove snap rings and bearings using snap-ring pliers and bearing puller; press shafts out using hydraulic press if interference fit.
- Keep components in order on a clean bench; lay them out as assembled to aid reassembly.
- Inspection
- Clean parts with solvent and inspect gears for pitting, chipped teeth or scoring.
- Check bearings for roughness by hand and shafts for scoring.
- Measure shaft diameters, bore roundness and gear backlash with micrometer and dial indicator; compare to manual specs.
- Use dye penetrant on housing mating faces and around bolt bosses to detect cracks.
- Housing-specific checks and repairs
- If minor stripped threads: chase threads clean; if damaged, install helicoil inserts to restore strength.
- If small cracks in non-critical areas: weld repair may be possible (cast iron requires preheat and specific rods; aluminum needs TIG/MIG with filler). After welding, machine bores as needed.
- If bearing bores are oval/worn: machine shop line-bore to the next oversize and replace bearings to match; this requires professional machining.
- If mount bosses are broken: weld or replace studs and then re-tap/helicoil as needed.
- If housing is heavily cracked or misaligned: replacement of the full housing is usually the correct option for long-term reliability.
- Reassembly
- Replace all bearings, seals, gaskets and any worn internal parts with new parts.
- Use correct installation tools (seal drivers) to press seals squarely; use press for bearings.
- Set gear backlash and shaft endfloat using dial indicator and feeler gauges/plastigauge per manual specs.
- Use assembly grease on bearings during reassembly; apply threadlocker where specified.
- Torque all bolts to the manual’s specified values in the correct sequence.
- Final steps and testing
- Reinstall gearbox into vehicle with transmission jack; align input shaft to clutch/flywheel using alignment tool.
- Reconnect linkages, sensors, driveshafts, starter, and battery.
- Refill gearbox with the correct Hino-specified gear oil and check for leaks.
- Test drive at low speed first; check for abnormal noises, leaks or shifting issues. Recheck torque on accessible bolts after initial test run.

- What a beginner can do vs what to take to a professional
- Tasks a beginner can reasonably do
- Remove and reinstall the gearbox with proper jacking/support.
- Replace external seals, gaskets and mounting hardware.
- Replace bearings and seals if you have access to a hydraulic press and basic puller tools and you follow specs.
- Repair stripped bolt holes with helicoil kits and re-tap holes.
- Clean and inspect parts and replace obvious worn components.
- Tasks to send to a machine shop or pro
- Welding cast iron or aluminum housings and subsequent re-machining of bearing bores.
- Line-boring and re-surfacing bearing journals and mating faces.
- Complex gearbox internal diagnosis and selective hard-part replacement (synchronizer reconditioning).
- Any work requiring specialized measurements beyond a dial indicator and calipers by an experienced technician.

- Common failure modes and when replacement of parts/housing is required
- Leaking input/output seals or main case seals: replace seals and gaskets; housing usually fine unless mating surface is busted.
- Noisy bearings or rough gears: replace bearings and worn gears; if shaft journals are scored, housing bore may need machining or replacement.
- Cracked housing (visible or dye-penetrant positive): if small, professional weld and line-bore; if extensive or misaligned, replace housing.
- Stripped threads in bellhousing: repair with helicoil or install a new insert; if boss is fractured, weld and re-machine or replace housing.
- Broken studs or mounting bosses: replace studs or weld/repair bosses; if multiple failures occur, consider housing replacement.

- Consumables and parts you should have on hand before starting
- Full gasket/seal kit for the specific Hino gearbox
- New bearings for all pressed fits you open
- New synchronizer rings if applicable
- Replacement studs/bolts and helicoil kit
- Correct grade gear oil and sealing compound specified by Hino
- Assembly grease and anti-seize for exhausted studs as needed

- Final practical advice (short)
- Do not improvise support for the gearbox—use a rated transmission jack/hoist.
- Always follow the Hino manual for tolerances and torque values; incorrect backlash or torque causes rapid failure.
- If you encounter complex machining, welding of the housing, or are unsure of bearing clearances/backlash, stop and visit a specialist or machine shop. Replacing the housing may be more cost-effective and safer than an amateur repair.

- Minimal immediate checklist to start safely
- Obtain the Hino gearbox removal instructions and torque specs.
- Gather PPE, socket/wrench set, transmission jack, basic pullers, snap-ring pliers, seal drivers, press access, and a parts-cleaning setup.
- Order a gasket/seal kit, bearings, and common fasteners for the gearbox before disassembly so you won’t be stranded mid-job.

No further questions.
rteeqp73

⚠️ OJO MUY DELICADO, TORQUE CORRECTO DE CULATA HINO 300 ⚠️

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Tools & preparation (what you need and why)
- Safety gear: gloves, eye protection, vehicle on stands, transmission support — to protect you and stabilize the gearbox.
- Tools: basic hand tools, impact/torque wrench, bearing pullers, hydraulic press or arbor press, drift punches, snap‑ring pliers, dial indicator with magnetic base, micrometer/vernier/calipers, feeler gauges, soft mallet, heat source (induction heater or controlled oven), solvent/parts cleaner, lint‑free rags.
- Parts & consumables: OEM replacement input‑shaft bearings and races (confirm exact part numbers for the Hino model/gearbox), new oil seals, any shims/collars/circlips, correct grade gearbox oil, thread locker where specified.
- Reference data: Hino workshop manual for this gearbox — bearing types, fits, interference values, torque values, preload/endplay/backlash specs. Do not substitute guesses for these values.

Overview of what the input‑shaft bearing replacement accomplishes (theory)
- Function of the input‑shaft bearings: support the input shaft radially and axially, keep correct gear mesh axial location and concentricity, transmit load into the gearbox casing, reduce friction and wear.
- Typical failure modes: fatigue pitting, brinelling from shock loads, heat damage (discoloration, cage failure), contamination and abrasive wear, loss of preload or incorrect endplay, bearing race wear causing shaft runout.
- How replacement fixes the fault: removes worn/contaminated bearing elements and restores correct shaft support and preload/backlash; reestablishes correct gear alignment and axial location of the shaft so gear teeth contact patterns and synchroniser operation return to spec; prevents secondary damage (gear teeth wear, synchro damage, seal leaks).

Step‑by‑step procedure with the theory behind each step (in order)
1. Diagnose and confirm
- Action: Confirm symptoms (noise at idle/under load, whining, growl, shaft play, oil contamination) and localize to input shaft via test drive, listening, and load/no-load diagnosis.
- Theory: Distinguish bearing noise (constant with engine speed, changes with load) from gear whine (mesh dependent). Verifying the fault prevents unnecessary disassembly.

2. Prepare vehicle and gearbox removal
- Action: Secure vehicle, disconnect battery, drain gearbox oil, remove driveshafts/clutch housing or engine coupling, and remove gearbox from vehicle following manual.
- Theory: Access the input shaft requires gearbox out or split. Proper support prevents damage and allows controlled disassembly.

3. Clean external areas and plan marking
- Action: Clean gearbox exterior, mark relative positions of housings and components if you will split them, photograph/label parts.
- Theory: Cleanliness controls contamination; marking preserves original orientation for reference and reassembly.

4. Open gearbox and expose the input shaft assembly
- Action: Remove gearbox cover/case bolts, separate cases, support mainshaft and layshaft as you remove retaining devices.
- Theory: Avoids additional internal damage; correct support prevents shaft sag and misalignment.

5. Document and measure pre‑removal clearances
- Action: Before removing the input shaft, measure axial play (endplay) of the shaft, backlash of pinion/gear mesh, and runout where accessible with a dial indicator.
- Theory: Baseline measurements allow verification that new assembly is set to the same or specified limits; useful for diagnosing whether the bearing caused excessive endplay/backlash.

6. Remove retaining nut / circlip and extract input shaft
- Action: Remove snap rings, retaining nuts/lockplates securing the shaft. Use careful extraction via puller/press or slide out shaft assembly.
- Theory: Retainers set axial location/preload — carefully note orientation and any shims as they determine endplay/preload on reassembly.

7. Disassemble the shaft to access bearings
- Action: Remove gears, synchros, collars as needed to reach input bearings. Keep parts in order.
- Theory: Bearings are often located between or against gears and may be retained by sleeves; removing components reveals bearing seats and races.

8. Remove the bearings and races properly
- Action: Use bearing pullers or press to remove inner races from the shaft and outer races from the housing/case. If races are interference‑fit in the case, heat the case bore (controlled, limited) or use an appropriate puller; if inner races are tight on shaft, heat the race or cool the shaft (dry ice) to separate.
- Theory: Bearings/races are interference fits to resist operational loads. Heat expands the component you want to remove to free the fit; press methods avoid shock and brinelling.

9. Inspect shaft, housing bores, gears, and seals
- Action: Inspect input shaft journal and bearing race surfaces for scoring, pitting, runout, fretting on splines, and sufficient diameter. Check housing bore for ovality or wear. Inspect gear teeth, synchroniser rings and collars for damage. Replace any damaged parts.
- Theory: A new bearing on a damaged shaft or bore will fail quickly. Bearing life depends on correct surface finish, hardness and concentricity. Splines or gear damage can cause vibration despite new bearings.

10. Clean parts and prepare to fit new bearings
- Action: Clean shafts and housings with solvent; dry thoroughly. Lightly oil mating surfaces to prevent corrosion during assembly.
- Theory: Clean, dry, contamination‑free surfaces ensure correct press fits and avoid premature bearing failure from contaminants.

11. Confirm correct replacement bearings and orientation
- Action: Verify bearing type (tapered roller vs ball vs needle), inner/outer race orientation, presence of seals on bearings. Order OEM or equivalent high‑quality bearings.
- Theory: Tapered roller bearings require specific orientation to carry axial and radial loads; installing reversed will destroy preload and cause failure.

12. Press in new races and bearings using correct method
- Action: Heat the outer race or case slightly (if required by manual) to fit into the housing; press bearings onto shaft using a sleeve that contacts the race (not the rolling elements). Use specified interference fits.
- Theory: Applying force only to the race prevents bearing damage. Controlled interference ensures the bearing is fixed and will transfer loads properly.

13. Set bearing preload or shaft endplay
- Action: Reassemble shaft components and install retaining nut/collar. Set preload (for tapered rollers) or axial endplay (for ball/needle bearings) using the specified shims or torqueing method. Measure with dial indicator/feeler gauge and follow Hino spec for preload or endplay.
- Theory: Preload eliminates internal clearance, controlling axial deflection under load and maintaining gear mesh. Too little preload causes shaft float, noise and wear; too much preload increases bearing heat and shortens life. Tapered bearings typically need a rotational torque or nut torque to achieve correct preload; other bearings use shims to set axial clearance.

14. Check gear mesh & backlash, rotate assembly
- Action: With shaft reassembled, measure and adjust gear backlash/contact pattern if required (may require shim change on layshaft or repositioning components). Rotate the input shaft and feel/measure torque and smoothness.
- Theory: Bearing position influences gear mesh axial relationship. Replacing bearings can change gear mesh; confirm contact patterns so gears share load evenly and synchronisers engage correctly.

15. Fit new seals and reassemble gearbox
- Action: Install new oil seals at the shaft protrusions and reassemble housings with correct mating surfaces and gasket/sealant per manual. Torque case bolts and fasteners to specified values.
- Theory: New seals prevent oil leaks and contamination ingress that can kill new bearings quickly. Proper torque clamps ensure housing rigidity and correct bearing seat relationships.

16. Refill gearbox with correct oil and perform initial run
- Action: Refill to specified level with correct grade lubricant. With gearbox mounted, run engine at idle and shift through gears; monitor for abnormal noises or temperature rise. Recheck for leaks.
- Theory: Fresh lubricant and controlled break‑in allow rollers to mate properly; overheating indicates excessive preload or binding.

17. Road test and final verification
- Action: Road test under varied loads. After a short run‑in period, recheck bearing preload/endplay and oil level. Re‑torque any accessible fasteners if specified.
- Theory: Real‑world stress validates the repair. Early rechecks find any settling issues before long‑term damage occurs.

Key measurement and adjustment points to understand
- Preload (tapered roller): Achieved by compressing the bearings axially until a specified rotational torque or axial endplay is obtained. Preload controls shaft axial movement under load.
- Endplay (ball/needle): Set with shims/collars to a small specified axial clearance. Too much endplay leads to gear tooth misalignment; too little leads to binding.
- Backlash: Lateral gear clearance between mating gears; measured with dial indicator on gear tooth. Backlash must be within spec for noise-free, long life operation.
- Runout: Shaft concentricity relative to housing; measured on a supported shaft with a dial indicator. Excessive runout indicates damaged shaft or bore.

Common pitfalls and how the repair prevents recurrence
- Installing bearings with impact on rolling elements: causes brinelling and premature failure. Use presses and heat.
- Not correcting shaft/bore damage: new bearings will fail quickly — always inspect and repair or replace damaged parts.
- Incorrect preload/shim selection: leads to noise, heat, premature wear. Always follow spec sequence and measurement.
- Contamination during assemble: introduces abrasive wear. Keep parts clean and use seals.
- Using wrong lubricant: improper lubrication film causes fatigue and scuffing. Use Hino‑specified gearbox oil.

How the repair fixes the symptoms (summary)
- Replacing the worn input shaft bearing restores correct radial and axial support, removing excessive shaft movement and runout that caused noise, vibration, and misaligned gear mesh.
- Correct bearing fit and preload/endplay restores gear tooth contact pattern and synchroniser engagement, eliminating gear wear and shifting issues.
- New seals and fresh oil stop contamination and prevent repeat bearing damage.

Final note: Always use the Hino workshop manual values (bearing part numbers, interference fits, torque figures, preload/endplay and backlash specs) for the specific FD/FE/FF/SG/FA/FB model and gearbox variant. Incorrect torque, preload, or fit will cause immediate or accelerated failure.
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1) Quick theory — what a torque converter does
- Converts engine power to transmission input by hydrodynamic coupling: pump (connected to engine flexplate) throws ATF onto turbine (transmission input); turbine transmits torque. A stator redirects flow to multiply torque at low speed.
- Contains a lock-up clutch for direct mechanical drive at cruise (reduces slip/heat).
- Functions depend on internal clearances, clutch friction surfaces, valve/seal integrity, and proper balance. Failure modes: worn pump/turbine/stator, failed lock‑up clutch, broken or clogged one‑way stator, worn seals causing fluid contamination/leaks, or imbalance causing vibration.

2) Common symptoms and how they map to root causes
- Slipping/low acceleration: worn friction surfaces or contaminated fluid.
- Shudder/vibration at lock-up: failing lock-up clutch or worn stator surfaces.
- Overheating/transmission fluid breakdown: internal drag, worn pump, or clogged passages.
- Strange noises or metallic particles in fluid: internal wear/broken parts.
- Fluid leaks or contamination: failed seals, bled off pressure, damaged torque converter hub.

3) Diagnostic checks (theory + quick tests)
- Fluid check: burnt smell, dark color, metal particles indicate internal failure.
- Stall test: engine speed under full brake with drive engaged — low stall suggests torque converter/pump inefficiency.
- Pressure test: low line pressure points to pump/converter damage.
- Vibration analysis: imbalance vs driveline—if vibration only with engine running or under torque, converter likely.
- Final decision: if internal damage, lock-up failure, or contaminated debris present, replacement is indicated.

4) Preparatory theory before removal
- Torque converter is mounted to the flexplate/flywheel by bolts accessible only after separating transmission from engine (on these Hino models you normally remove the transmission to get full access).
- When separating, converter remains attached to the transmission input shaft and is supported by the transmission — if you separate incorrectly the converter can fall or damage the pump seal.
- Pre-filling the replacement converter with ATF and rotating it by hand helps prevent dry-start pump cavitation and allows pump to prime quickly on first start.

5) Ordered removal procedure (theory inline)
1. Safety and documentation
- Park on level ground, chock wheels, support vehicle on rated lifts/stands.
- Record and label all disconnects; take photos to ensure correct reassembly.
- Disconnect battery to prevent accidental cranking.
Theory: prevents injury and electrical faults; documentation avoids improper reconnection that can damage transmission electronics.

2. Drain transmission fluid and remove driveline components
- Remove prop shaft/driveshaft, tailshaft, torque arm as applicable.
Theory: allows transmission removal and prevents fluid spillage and contamination.

3. Disconnect electrical, hydraulic, and control linkages
- Unplug sensors, shift linkage, cooler lines (cap lines to prevent contamination), and vacuum/air lines.
Theory: prevents damage and allows free separation.

4. Support transmission and remove mounts
- Place a transmission jack under the gearbox; support engine if needed.
- Remove transmission crossmember and mounts.
Theory: keeps heavy components supported and aligned to avoid shock loads.

5. Remove starter and bellhousing external items, then separate transmission from engine
- Unbolt starter and any parts blocking bellhousing bolts.
- Back off bellhousing bolts in a star pattern; separate housing carefully a short distance keeping converter supported.
Theory: separation exposes converter-to-flexplate bolts; maintaining support prevents radial/axial drop.

6. Access and remove torque converter bolts
- Rotate the engine (manual crank) so bolt holes align; while transmission still supported, reach into bellhousing and remove converter-to-flexplate bolts.
- Remove bolts progressively in small increments so the converter disengages evenly.
Theory: bolts clamp converter to flexplate; even removal avoids bending or misalignment and keeps converter seated until transmission is ready to come free.

7. Remove transmission (with converter attached) or slide transmission back and remove converter
- Carefully slide transmission rearward until converter disengages from the pump drive; support both units and remove converter from transmission input shaft.
- If converter remains on the engine side, pull it straight off the flexplate.
Theory: avoid pry‑ing on internal splines; proper linear movement prevents damage to pump seal and input shaft splines.

6) Inspect and measure (theory + criteria)
- Inspect flexplate/bolts for warpage, heat spots, damaged teeth; replace if damaged.
- Inspect input shaft splines for wear; check transmission pump and front seal for scoring.
- Check converter inner surface for metal debris or clutch material; rotate lock‑up clutch to feel dragging or roughness.
- Check for excessive axial or radial play (factory manual values) and for visible cracks or delamination.
Theory: the mating surfaces and seals must be intact to maintain hydraulic pressure and balance; any contaminated system will quickly destroy a new converter.

7) Prepare new torque converter (theory + practical)
- Prefill the new converter with recommended ATF through the ports/shaft until fluid appears at pilot/hub openings or as manual recommends.
- Spin the converter to distribute fluid; top up to specified capacity.
- Replace all flexplate/converter bolts and use new bolts if recommended; apply appropriate threadlocker if specified.
Theory: pre‑filling prevents pump cavitation and starvation on initial start; new bolts ensure correct clamping and prevent loosening from vibration.

8) Installation (ordered, with theory)
1. Align and seat converter on transmission input shaft
- Slide converter fully onto the input shaft until you feel the splines engage and the converter shoulder contacts the transmission housing. Confirm it is seated fully by rotating/rocking until it bottoms against its stop (note: you must feel/measure full engagement — not just a few mm).
Theory: full engagement ensures the pump drive hub meshes and the converter won’t be pulled into the pump or misaligned, which would damage seals.

2. Mate transmission to engine
- Lift transmission, align with engine dowels, and slide forward until bellhousing faces meet. Ensure converter remains seated in transmission while bringing the units together.
- Tighten bellhousing bolts finger-tight then torque to factory spec in sequence.
Theory: correct alignment maintains centerline, prevents bending moments on the converter and input shaft.

3. Install converter-to-flexplate bolts
- Rotate engine so bolt holes align; tighten bolts evenly in criss-cross sequence to specified torque.
Theory: even clamping maintains balance and prevents flexplate distortion.

4. Reconnect mounts, linkages, lines, sensors
- Reattach everything in reverse order. Replace any seals/lines that were damaged.
Theory: ensures hydraulic and control integrity.

9) Fluid, bleed and final checks (theory + steps)
- Refill transmission with correct type and quantity of ATF per Hino specification.
- If the transmission has a separate converter drain/level procedure (some models require running to operating temperature and checking level with engine idling in park/neutral), follow factory process.
- Check for leaks at cooler lines, seal surfaces, and converter flange.
- Start engine and observe for abnormal noise, vibration, or pressure loss; verify torque converter engagement and lock-up behavior during road test.
Theory: correct fluid level and bleeding ensures hydraulic circuits and lock-up clutch function normally; initial run-in will seat friction materials and purge air.

10) How the repair fixes the fault (mapping)
- Replacing restores correct internal clearances, undamaged pump/turbine/stator geometries, and a functional lock-up clutch; this eliminates hydraulic inefficiency that caused slipping and low stall.
- New seals and mating surfaces stop leaks and prevent fluid loss that leads to overheating and contamination.
- A properly balanced new converter removes vibration caused by imbalance or warped flexplate.
- Pre-filling and correct installation protect the transmission pump and input shaft from immediate damage and restore proper lubrication and pressure build-up.
- If sensors/solenoids or valve body were causing lock-up problems, those must be repaired too; replacing the converter only fixes internal mechanical/hydraulic faults inside the converter.

11) Key cautions (brief)
- Always use factory torque specs and procedural details from the Hino workshop manual for these models.
- Do not run engine with an unseated/dry converter — pump seal damage is immediate.
- Replace bolts, seals and any damaged bellhousing/flexplate parts.
- Balance and cleanliness: keep everything free of debris; metal contamination will ruin a new converter quickly.

That is the ordered, theory‑integrated procedure and how the replacement cures the underlying faults.
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