Isuzu Diesel Engine Workshop Manual 4BB1 4BD1 6BB1 6BD1 6BG1 4BDIT 6BD1T 6BG1T

1) Purpose and theory (short)
- What the “choke” does on these Isuzu diesel engines: the cold‑start/choke cable operates a mechanical enrichment/fast‑idle device on the injection pump/throttle linkage or a throttle stop in the intake to increase fuel delivery or raise idle for cold starts. That extra fuel/air change helps the engine reach combustion temperature and stabilize idle. A cable that is worn, binds, misadjusted or out of travel will cause hard starting, long white/black smoke on warm‑up, unstable idle or over‑fueling.
- How the repair fixes it: by restoring smooth cable movement, correct end‑play and travel stops, and correct linkage geometry you ensure the cold‑start lever achieves full enrichment when selected and returns fully when released. That delivers the intended extra fuel/air only during start and prevents partial choke (poor starting) or permanent enrichment (smoke, high idle, fouling).

2) Tools and materials (brief)
- Basic hand tools: screwdrivers, pliers, open/box wrenches, small adjustable wrench.
- Replacement choke/cold‑start cable or inner wire if repairing, ferrules, end fittings, lubricant (PTFE cable lube or light engine oil), small cable clamps, RTV or grease for sealing boots if applicable.
- Cleaning rag and light penetrating oil.

3) Diagnosis (in order)
1. Symptom check: confirm hard cold start, prolonged smoke, or idle issues correspond to cold‑start lever/cable usage.
2. Visual and tactile inspection: with engine off, operate the choke/cold‑start lever in the cab or at the control and observe movement at the injection pump/intake. The cable should move freely, smoothly, and return fully. Note any binding, slack, frayed wire, broken outer sheath, or snag points.
3. Measure travel: compare actual movement of the pump lever to expected movement. If lever does not reach its intended stop or is slow, the cable or adjustment is suspect.
4. Check mounting and stops: ensure lever return spring is present and spring action returns lever; check for missing stop screws or mispositioned limit collars.

4) Removal and inspection (in order)
1. Isolate engine and let cool. Put ignition off and batteries isolated if practical.
2. Access cable: remove dash/panel clamps if needed, remove air cleaner or pump covers to see the cable run from control lever to pump.
3. Disconnect at control end: remove retaining clip or screw at the knob/lever, withdraw inner wire end from knob bracket.
4. Disconnect at pump/intake end: remove the small retaining clip/cotter/pin or ferrule that secures the inner wire to the cold‑start lever. Carefully note orientation and any spacers.
5. Withdraw cable assembly from its clamps/guide tubes and pull out.
6. Inspect inner wire for frays, kinks, corrosion. Inspect outer sheath for crushed or split sections. Inspect end ferrules for wear. Replace the cable if inner wire is frayed, sheath split, or friction causes binding.

5) Repair or replacement (in order)
Option A — Replace cable (preferred if any damage)
1. Fit new cable with correct length and end fittings for your model.
2. Route cable along original path, avoiding tight bends, heat sources, and pinch points. Use original clamps/grommets; replace worn grommets.
3. Secure outer sheath to fixed brackets so only the inner wire moves relative to sheath.

Option B — Repair inner wire/ferrule (if minor)
1. If only an end ferrule failed, remove old ferrule, cut inner wire cleanly, flare or fit a replacement ferrule/crimp and secure properly with correct crimp tool. Do not use improvised fittings that slip.
2. Lightly lubricate inner wire with PTFE cable lube or light oil to eliminate binding. Do not over‑lubricate near pump inlet where oil can attract dirt.

6) Adjustment and setup (in order)
1. With cable fitted but not clamped tight, set the cold‑start control to “off” (released) so the pump lever is at its normal idle position.
2. Adjust cable free play: move inner wire until the pump lever just reaches its release position with no preload (no tension). There should be a small specified free play — typically a few millimetres — so the lever is not being held against its stop during normal running. (Too tight = permanent enrichment; too loose = not enough enrichment.)
3. Push cable to full “choke” position and confirm the pump lever reaches the full cold‑start enrichment stop without over‑travel or binding. The cable should actuate the mechanism fully.
4. Fit and tighten the retaining clip/nut at both ends, holding sheath in the bracket so the inner wire movement is correct. Reinstall any boots or grommets that seal the joint.
5. If the pump has an adjustable fast‑idle cam or stop, set it per service data so that when choke is applied the engine speed rises to the specified fast idle; when released it returns to normal idle.
6. Ensure return spring tension is adequate to snap the lever back when released.

7) Test and verification (in order)
1. Function test cold: with engine cold, operate the control and observe the lever: full travel, smooth action, correct fast idle and then return to normal idle when released.
2. Start engine with choke off and then with choke engaged to verify differences: with engaged you should get easier starting and a brief richer condition; with released the engine should run normally without smoking or high idle after warm‑up.
3. Drive/operate through warm‑up and confirm no lingering smoke or roughness. Re‑check cable clamps after a short run, and retighten if any movement observed.

8) How this solves common faults (concise)
- Sticking/binding cable: lubrication or replacement restores full movement so the enrichment device can operate when needed. That fixes hard cold starts caused by insufficient enrichment.
- Frayed or broken inner wire: replacement prevents intermittent operation and sudden failure (no enrichment). Fixes unpredictable starting and engine stalls at cold.
- Misadjusted cable (too tight): puts the pump lever partially on the enrichment stop all the time, causing over‑fueling, black smoke, fouled plugs/filters and high idle. Re‑adjusting restores correct off position, removing excess fuel.
- Excess slack: the lever never reaches the enrichment stop → poor cold starting. Proper adjustment restores travel so full enrichment occurs on demand.
- Poor routing or crushed sheath: creates friction and delayed movement. Rerouting and securing sheath reduces drag and ensures immediate response.

9) Quick checks after repair (one‑line each)
- No binding through full travel.
- Lever returns hard to stop when control released.
- No black smoke after warm‑up.
- Normal idle speed with choke off; correct fast idle when on.

Safety note (brief)
- Work with engine off and cool when disconnecting; avoid loose clothing around moving parts during testing.

End.
rteeqp73

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