Isuzu NPR NQR NPS NKR NHR N SERIES TRUCK Workshop Manual Digital Download

- Safety first — do this only if you accept personal risk; wear eye protection, gloves, closed-toe shoes, and avoid loose clothing. Do not work under a vehicle supported only by a jack; use quality jack stands on a level surface. If unsure, have a shop do it.

- Basic overview of the job — remove the wheel, unbolt the strut from the steering knuckle and the top mount in the engine bay, remove the strut. Replace the entire strut assembly (recommended) or disassemble the strut with a proper spring compressor to replace the shock cartridge/strut insert, mounts, dust boot or bump stop as needed. Always get a front wheel alignment after replacing struts.

- Why you should usually replace the complete strut assembly — saves time and risk (spring compression/installation is dangerous), new assembly includes strut body/shock, top mount and sometimes bearing and dust boot, ensures correct ride and avoids reusing worn or weak components.

- Parts that may need replacement and why
- Strut assembly (complete) — absorbs bumps and supports vehicle; required if leaking fluid, noisy, worn or sagging ride height. Replacing the full assembly is the safest beginner option.
- Strut cartridge/shock insert — if the outer shell and spring are fine but damping is gone; requires spring compressor and more skill.
- Upper strut mount and bearing — often wears and causes clunking or steering noise; usually replaced with the strut.
- Coil spring — replace if cracked, corroded or sagging; springs are part of the structural preload and must be safe.
- Dust boot and bump stop — protect the shock shaft and limit travel; cheap and often replaced during strut work.
- Mounting nuts/bolts and studs — replace any heavily corroded or stretched fasteners; torque-to-spec when installing.
- Sway bar end links, tie rod ends or control arm bushings — inspect nearby components; if worn, replace to ensure proper handling.

- Tools you need (basic tools explained)
- Hydraulic floor jack — lifts the vehicle. Use on recommended jacking points, pump handle to raise. Never rely on the jack as the only support.
- Jack stands (pair) — supports the vehicle after lifting. Place under solid frame or axle points, lower vehicle onto stands, ensure both stands contact firmly before working under or at wheel height.
- Wheel chocks — block wheels remaining on ground to prevent rolling. Place behind and/or in front of the wheels.
- Lug wrench or cross wrench — removes wheel lug nuts. Use correct socket size and apply steady force; break loose with the wheel on the ground to avoid spinning.
- Socket set and ratchet — remove bolts/nuts. Use correct size sockets to avoid rounding. A 3/8" and 1/2" drive ratchet set covers most sizes.
- Breaker bar — long-handled non-ratcheting bar for stubborn fasteners. Use body weight and short steady pulls rather than jerking.
- Torque wrench (click-type) — tightens fasteners to specified torque. Set the wrench to the required torque and pull the handle slowly until it clicks; use for critical bolts (strut top nuts, knuckle bolts, wheel lug nuts).
- Combination/open-end wrenches — hold nuts and bolts while turning the mating fastener with a socket; useful in tight spaces.
- Spring compressor (heavy-duty, hook or clamp style) — compresses coil spring securely to allow safe disassembly/reassembly of a strut. Never use an improper compressor or compressors that attach to opposite ends — use a quality, matching pair rated for coil springs. Follow the compressor instructions and compress evenly and incrementally.
- Impact wrench (optional) — speeds removal of lug nuts and stuck bolts. Useful but not required; if used, finish critical fasteners with a torque wrench to spec.
- Penetrating oil (e.g., PB Blaster) — helps free rusted bolts. Spray, allow dwell time, and reapply if needed.
- Rubber mallet/hammer and drift/punch — tap out stuck bolts gently. Use a drift to avoid damaging bolt heads.
- Pry bar — separates components gently (e.g., control arm or knuckle) if needed. Use leverage carefully.
- Ball joint separator or pickle fork (optional) — if lower control arm/ball joint needs separating. Use with care; may damage boot if forced.
- Hex/Allen key or strut shaft holding tool — some struts require holding the strut shaft while removing the top nut; a hex key or specific holding tool prevents shaft rotation.
- Shop light and protective mat/kneeling pad — improve visibility and comfort.
- Wire brush and anti-seize or thread locker — clean threads and apply anti-seize on bolts or thread locker where specified.
- Brake line/support tool or small pliers — to unclip brake hose bracket from the strut without damaging lines.
- Drain pan/rags — catch any fluid or dirt.
- Gloves and safety glasses — personal protection.

- Why the extra/special tools are required
- Spring compressor — mandatory if you plan to disassemble the strut and reuse the spring; coil springs store severe energy and will cause injury or death if released suddenly. A proper compressor secures and safely compresses the spring.
- Torque wrench — essential to tighten suspension fasteners to the correct specification to ensure safety and proper handling; under- or over-torquing can be dangerous.
- Jack stands — mandatory to safely support the vehicle; a jack alone is not safe.
- Ball joint separator/strut shaft holding tool — some assemblies need these to remove stubborn joints or hold the shaft; avoids rounding fasteners and reduces risk.

- Step-by-step (high-level, beginner-friendly)
- Prepare: park on level ground, block rear wheels, loosen front wheel lug nuts slightly while car is on ground.
- Lift and support: jack up the front, place jack stands under the frame/control arm, lower vehicle onto stands, remove wheel.
- Inspect: check brake lines, sway bar links and control arm condition; spray penetrating oil on strut-to-knuckle bolts and top nuts and let soak.
- Disconnect components: remove sway bar end link from strut (or separate lower link), unclip brake hose/bracket from strut, remove any ABS sensor wires clipped to the strut.
- Remove lower bolts: support the steering knuckle/hub (use a jack or tie up with wire) and remove the lower strut-to-knuckle bolts; free the knuckle from the strut.
- Remove top nuts: open the engine bay strut tower, remove the strut top nuts while holding the strut assembly so it does not drop; remove the strut from the vehicle.
- If replacing full assembly: fit the new assembled strut into the top mount, secure top nuts finger tight, align lower strut to knuckle and install lower bolts, torque to spec, reconnect sway bar, brake line and sensors, torque top nuts to spec after vehicle on ground (follow manual sequence).
- If rebuilding (requires spring compressor): mount spring in compressor, compress evenly until spring tension is relieved from strut top, remove top nut and disassemble, replace shock cartridge, mount new top mount/dust boot/bump stop as needed, reassemble and slowly release spring compression evenly, inspect that spring seats are correct.
- Reinstall wheel and lower car: reinstall wheel, torque lug nuts to spec after lowering to the ground, double-check all fasteners to torque specs.
- Post-install checks: test for clearance, road test at low speed, listen for noises, and get a professional wheel alignment as suspension geometry will change.

- Torque and alignment notes
- Always use the factory service manual or a reputable data source for exact torque specifications for strut top nuts, lower bolts, and lug nuts. Do not guess torque values.
- Get a wheel alignment immediately after replacing struts to prevent uneven tire wear and ensure proper handling.

- Common signs you need to replace struts
- Visible oil leak on the strut body.
- Excessive bounce or poor damping over bumps.
- Uneven tire wear or sagging ride height.
- Clunking, knocking, or rattling from the front suspension.
- Steering wander or reduced control.

- Warnings and best practices
- Do not attempt spring work without a proper spring compressor and knowledge of its safe use. If you are a beginner, replace the complete strut assembly instead.
- Never stand directly over a compressed spring or in the line of potential failure; keep bystanders away.
- Replace both front struts at the same time (left and right) to maintain balanced handling.
- Replace any heavily rusted or damaged fasteners. Clean threads and use anti-seize where appropriate, thread locker where required.
- If any part of the job feels beyond your experience or tools, stop and consult a professional mechanic.

- Final practical tips
- Buy quality replacement assemblies from reputable brands or OEM look-alikes; cheap parts can fail sooner.
- Keep a notebook or take photos of bolt locations and routing of brake lines/ABS wires before removal.
- Have alignment specs ready and schedule an alignment shop appointment before driving far.

- Quick summary for a beginner who wants the safest route
- Buy two complete front strut assemblies (left and right), new top mount/dust boots if not included, jack, jack stands, socket set, torque wrench, breaker bar, lug wrench, penetrating oil, basic hand tools. Do not disassemble springs — swap complete assemblies and get an alignment.
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