Isuzu Trucks FSR, FTR, FVR with the 6HK1 engine 1997 1999 1999 2000 2001 2002 2003 Workshop Manual
Covers:
Maintenance & Lubrication
Heating, Ventilation, and Air Conditioning (HVAC)
Steering
Suspension
Driveline and Axle
Brakes
Engine
Transmission & Transaxle
Body and Accessories
Restraints
Electrical
Fuel system
Servicing
Turbocharger
Isuzu Trucks FSR, FTR, FVR with the 6HK1 engine 1997 1999 1999 2000 2001 2002 2003 Workshop Manual
Tools & consumables
- Basic hand tools: metric socket & wrench set (6–24 mm), extensions, ratchet, breaker bar
- Torque wrench (0–200 Nm)
- Line wrenches (10–22 mm) for hydraulic fittings
- Pitman arm puller / gear puller
- Tie‑rod / ball joint separator
- Pulley puller (for power‑steering pump pulley)
- Hose clamp pliers / screwdriver
- Fluid catch pan, funnels, clean rags, brake cleaner
- Pressure gauge kit for power steering (optional but recommended)
- Jack, heavy-duty jack stands, wheel chocks
- Protective gloves, eye protection
- Shop manual or factory torque/spec sheet (for fastener torques and fluid spec)
Consumables & replacement parts
- Correct power steering fluid as specified by Isuzu (use factory spec; many Isuzu medium trucks use ATF/Dexron‑type or manufacturer PSF — check manual)
- New hoses if leaking or rubber is deteriorated; new O‑rings, copper/crush washers for banjo fittings
- New power steering pump and/or steering gear (box) or a rebuild kit (seals, bearings)
- New pump pulley if scored/damaged, belt if worn
- Thread locker and anti‑seize as required
Safety precautions
- Park on level ground, chock rear wheels, set parking brake.
- Support vehicle on rated jack stands — do not rely on the jack.
- Wear safety glasses and gloves. Power‑steering fluid is slippery and flammable; keep open flames away.
- Depressurize system before opening high‑pressure lines (engine off). Catch fluid immediately.
- Avoid contamination — keep caps on open lines, use clean rags.
Step‑by‑step procedure
A. Diagnosis (confirm what needs repair)
1. Visual inspection: check for fluid leaks at pump, hoses, cooler, steering gearbox/pitman arm seal, and hose fittings. Look for wet steering box bellows, oil on frame.
2. Check fluid level & condition: low level, foamy or burnt fluid indicates air contamination or overheating. Top up to minimum to prevent pump damage while diagnosing.
3. Belt & pulley: inspect drive belt for wear and proper tension; check pump pulley for wobble.
4. Noise & play: start engine and listen for whining (pump starved) or groaning (bearing issue). With engine off, check steering play at wheel and pitman arm for excessive lash.
5. Pressure test (optional): connect PS pressure gauge to high‑pressure line. Normal pressure figures: consult manual; low pressure indicates pump failure, leaking relief valve; no pressure indicates drive/pulley or pump failure.
B. Pump replacement (most common)
1. Prepare: chock wheels, raise front (if needed) and support on stands. Remove negative battery cable if working near electrical.
2. Drain/catch fluid: place pan under pump, loosen inlet/return hose unions with line wrenches and allow fluid to drain. Cap lines to keep dirt out.
3. Remove drive belt: loosen tensioner or idler and slip off belt.
4. Remove pulley (if replacing pump & pulley not reused): use pulley puller — fit the puller jaws behind pulley lip, thread center forcing bolt against pump shaft, and slowly extract pulley.
5. Unbolt pump: remove mounting bolts, carefully lift pump out. Note hose routing and bracket placement.
6. Transfer fittings/pulley: if reusing pulley or reservoir, transfer parts using appropriate tools. Replace any damaged O‑rings or crush washers at fittings.
7. Install new pump: fit in place, loosely install mounting bolts, then torque to manufacturer spec. Reinstall pulley—if installing a new pulley, press on with a pulley installer or gently drive on to seat (ensure correct orientation).
8. Reconnect hoses: use new crush washers/ O‑rings on banjo fittings; torque to spec. Avoid twisting hoses.
9. Refit belt: set correct belt tension per manual; spin pump by hand to check.
C. Steering gearbox (steering box / pitman arm) replacement
1. Mark orientation: before removal, center the steering wheel and count turns from lock-to-lock or mark position of steering box sector shaft relative to box housing to ensure centering.
2. Disconnect drag link: with front wheels chocked and wheels centered, loosen nut at pitman arm/drag link. Use tie‑rod separator to free the joint — do not hit tie rod stud, use puller to avoid thread/ball damage.
3. Remove pitman arm: use pitman arm puller. Fit puller jaws behind arm, thread center bolt against sector shaft and press arm off. Do not hammer arm off — this damages taper.
4. Disconnect box from frame: remove power steering lines (cap/plug lines immediately), electrical connectors (if any), and mounting bolts. Support box as its heavy.
5. Prepare replacement box: if reusing pitman arm, install on new box or replace pitman arm if worn. Center the replacement box: rotate sector shaft to center position (use counts lock‑to‑lock or match marks made earlier). Many shops rotate box to center before installing pitman arm: with box centered, align pitman arm to match steering wheel center when installed.
6. Install new box: position, tighten mounting bolts to spec, reconnect lines using new crush washers and torque to spec.
7. Install pitman arm onto sector shaft with correct orientation. Torque nut to spec and install cotter pin if applicable.
8. Reattach drag link/center link; torque nuts to spec.
D. Bleeding the system (critical)
1. Fill reservoir to proper level with specified fluid.
2. Pre‑bleed: with engine off, have an assistant turn steering wheel slowly from lock to lock several times (do not hold at stops). Check fluid level and top up as needed. This forces air out of lines.
3. Start engine idle: turn steering gently from lock to lock several times to purge remaining air. Keep reservoir topped up to avoid drawing new air.
4. Cycle under load: with wheels off ground, with assistant gradually turn wheel full range and check for foamy fluid/air bubbles. Refill and repeat until fluid runs clear and steering feels normal.
5. Road test: check for steering return, noises, leaks. Verify no excessive play.
6. Final fluid level: with engine idling and wheel centered, set fluid level to the specified mark.
How to use special tools (brief)
- Pitman arm puller: attach the two jaws behind the arm; thread center bolt onto sector shaft; tighten center bolt to press the tapered pitman arm off the shaft. Use gradual steady force; if stuck, a few drops of penetrating oil and heat on the arm (not the shaft) helps.
- Pulley puller: hooks or jaws engage behind pulley lip; center bolt presses against pump shaft; turn to extract pulley without bending sleeve.
- Line wrenches: grips fitting flats more securely than open end wrenches to prevent rounding off hydraulic union nuts.
- Pressure gauge: disconnect high‑pressure hose, install gauge adapter into high‑pressure port, start engine and read pressure per shop manual. Use to verify pump output and relief valve operation.
- Tie‑rod separator: wedges between ball stud and taper; use a puller tool to separate without striking and damaging threads.
Common pitfalls & how to avoid them
- Not centering the steering box before installing pitman arm — causes off‑center steering and uneven toe. Always center box/steering wheel and use lock‑to‑lock count or service manual centering marks.
- Reusing old crush washers/O‑rings — will likely leak. Always replace sealing washers on high‑pressure fittings.
- Introducing dirt/contaminants into new pump or box — cap lines immediately, work clean, flush system after prolonged contamination.
- Failing to bleed system thoroughly — causes pump cavitation, whining, jerky steering.
- Using wrong fluid — can damage pump/valves. Use the factory‑specified fluid.
- Striking tapered joints to force removal — use correct pullers. Hitting components can damage tapers and require replacement.
- Not torquing fasteners to spec — can lead to leaks or loose mounting. Always use torque wrench and factory values.
Post‑repair checks (final)
- Inspect all fittings and hoses for leaks with engine running and steering cycled.
- Verify steering wheel returns to center and freedom of movement without binding.
- Road test at low speed then higher speed; check for wander, pull, or chatter.
- Check wheel alignment; replace or adjust toe as required after steering component replacement.
- Recheck fluid level after 24–48 hours of operation and add if needed.
Replacement parts summary
- Power steering pump (or rebuild kit)
- Steering gear / steering box (or rebuild kit/seal kit)
- Hoses (pressure & return) and clamps
- Banjo bolts, new crush washers / O‑rings
- Pump pulley & drive belt (if worn)
- Power steering fluid (factory spec)
Finish
Follow the Isuzu workshop manual for exact torque values, line routing, hose clamps, and any model‑specific procedures (electronic steering aids or sensors). Proper centering and bleeding are the two steps technicians most commonly miss — do them carefully. rteeqp73
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Tools & parts needed
- Basic hand tools: 1/4" & 3/8" ratchets, 6" and 10" extensions, metric sockets (8, 10, 12mm commonly), long 10mm deep socket or hex socket if sensor bolt uses an Allen.
- Torx sockets set (some models).
- Torque wrench (0–50 Nm).
- Multimeter (DC volts, continuity, resistance).
- OBD2 / Isuzu diagnostic scanner (to read/clear codes and view cam sensor data).
- Small pick/flat screwdriver, plastic trim tools.
- Bench vise or soft-jaw pliers (optional for holding sensor if testing).
- Contact cleaner & lint-free rags.
- Dielectric grease.
- New camshaft position sensor (OEM or equivalent) and new O‑ring/seal (always replace O‑ring).
- Threadlocker (blue) if specified by manual.
- Safety gear: gloves, safety glasses.
Safety precautions
- Park on level ground, set parking brake, chock wheels.
- Engine off and cool to avoid burns (if sensor is under cover near hot parts).
- Disconnect NEGATIVE battery terminal before unplugging electrical connectors or doing electrical tests.
- Avoid metal tools near fuel lines and electrical connectors.
- Keep work area clean; don't drop debris into engine openings.
Overview
On Isuzu F Series (FSR/FTR/FVR) the camshaft position sensor is mounted in the cylinder head or timing cover area and senses camshaft rotation to time injection/ignition. Procedure below covers diagnosis, removal and replacement and post-install tests.
Step-by-step procedure
1) Confirm fault and prepare
- Read stored fault codes with the scanner (P0340, P0341 or manufacturer code). Note freeze frame data.
- Verify battery charge (12.4V+ recommended).
- Gather parts & tools. Disconnect negative battery terminal.
2) Gain access to sensor
- Remove obstructing components: engine cover, air intake ducting, snorkel, coolant pipes, harness clips or bracketry as required to get clear access to the sensor connector and mounting bolt.
- Clean area around the sensor with brake cleaner or contact cleaner so dirt doesn’t fall into the opening when sensor is removed.
3) Inspect wiring & connector
- Visually inspect the sensor connector and harness for corrosion, broken wires, damaged insulation or rodent damage.
- Unlock and release connector latch (use pick if needed), then disconnect the sensor. Do not pull on wires.
4) Test sensor / wiring (diagnostic)
- Reconnect battery temporarily if you disconnected it for tests. With key ON (engine off):
- Use multimeter to check for reference voltage at the connector (usually 5V for Hall sensors). One pin should be Vref ~5V, one ground (0V), one output (no steady voltage until crank). If no Vref, problem is wiring/ECM.
- If you have an oscilloscope, crank engine and verify pulsed waveform on output lead. If inductive type, you’ll see AC pulses during crank; an ohm check (engine off) can give coil resistance but values vary — if open/short replace the sensor.
- If sensor fails electrical tests, replace it. If wiring fails, repair harness or connectors first.
5) Remove sensor
- Remove mounting bolt(s) (note socket type — often 10mm or hex head). Use extension to reach if required.
- Gently twist and pull the sensor straight out of its bore. Some sensors have an O‑ring seal—careful not to gouge the bore with the O‑ring.
- Inspect mounting bore for metal shavings, oil sludge, or scoring.
6) Prepare new sensor
- Compare new sensor to old for match.
- Lubricate new O‑ring with clean engine oil or small dab of dielectric grease (don’t use silicone sealants unless specified).
- If sensor has a keyed orientation, align and orient as original.
7) Install new sensor
- Insert sensor straight into bore until fully seated; do not force at an angle.
- Fit mounting bolt and finger-tighten. Torque to spec — typical small sensor bolts are torqued around 5–12 Nm; check OEM manual for exact torque. Use threadlocker only if specified.
- Reconnect electrical connector; ensure locking tab engages and pins are clean/corrosion-free.
- Reinstall any removed ducts, covers and brackets.
8) Reconnect battery & clear codes
- Reconnect negative battery terminal.
- Use scanner to clear codes and view live data. Crank engine and check cam sensor signal on scanner (some scanners show sensor RPM/position).
- Start engine and observe idle and operation. Let engine idle for a couple minutes to allow ECM adaptives to reset.
9) Road test & final check
- Test drive under varied loads; monitor for reappearance of codes.
- Re-scan to confirm no new codes and proper cam sensor behavior.
How each tool is used (short)
- Multimeter: check reference voltage (5V), ground continuity and sensor resistance. Use back-probing at connector.
- Scanner: read/clear codes, view live cam sensor data or cam/crank correlation.
- Torque wrench: tighten mounting bolt to spec to avoid oil leaks or stripped threads.
- Pick/trim tools: release connector tabs without damaging plastic.
- Contact cleaner & rags: clean connector pins and sensor bore.
Common pitfalls & how to avoid them
- Not diagnosing wiring first — replacing a sensor when Vref or ground is missing will not fix it. Always check for 5V and ground at connector.
- Damaging O‑ring or bore — replace O‑ring and lubricate before installation. Don’t reuse old O‑ring.
- Pulling on wires instead of connector — will damage terminals.
- Over-tightening sensor bolt — can strip threads or crack sensor housing. Use torque wrench and OEM torque.
- Incorrect orientation — some sensors are keyed; ensure correct alignment.
- Not cleaning mounting bore — dirt can prevent full seating & damage O‑ring.
- Not clearing/monitoring codes — ECM may require code clear or relearn; otherwise faults will remain.
- Using non‑OEM cheap sensors with wrong resistor/voltage characteristics — use quality OEM or equivalent.
Replacement parts required
- New camshaft position sensor (OEM part recommended).
- New O‑ring/seal (often supplied with sensor, if not buy separately).
- Optional: replacement mounting bolt or connector if damaged; small amount of dielectric grease for connector.
Notes and final checks
- Specific torque values and exact socket sizes vary by engine variant — consult Isuzu workshop manual for your engine (4HK1, 6HK1, etc.) for exact torque and connector pinouts.
- If sensor replacement does not clear fault, check cam/crank timing and mechanical timing components (timing belt/chain, sprockets) as severe timing faults can cause cam sensor errors.
- Dispose of old sensor according to local regulations.
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