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Isuzu F Series FSR FTR FVR Truck 1997-2003 Workshop Manual digital download

Tools & consumables
- Basic hand tools: metric socket & wrench set (6–24 mm), extensions, ratchet, breaker bar
- Torque wrench (0–200 Nm)
- Line wrenches (10–22 mm) for hydraulic fittings
- Pitman arm puller / gear puller
- Tie‑rod / ball joint separator
- Pulley puller (for power‑steering pump pulley)
- Hose clamp pliers / screwdriver
- Fluid catch pan, funnels, clean rags, brake cleaner
- Pressure gauge kit for power steering (optional but recommended)
- Jack, heavy-duty jack stands, wheel chocks
- Protective gloves, eye protection
- Shop manual or factory torque/spec sheet (for fastener torques and fluid spec)
Consumables & replacement parts
- Correct power steering fluid as specified by Isuzu (use factory spec; many Isuzu medium trucks use ATF/Dexron‑type or manufacturer PSF — check manual)
- New hoses if leaking or rubber is deteriorated; new O‑rings, copper/crush washers for banjo fittings
- New power steering pump and/or steering gear (box) or a rebuild kit (seals, bearings)
- New pump pulley if scored/damaged, belt if worn
- Thread locker and anti‑seize as required
Safety precautions
- Park on level ground, chock rear wheels, set parking brake.
- Support vehicle on rated jack stands — do not rely on the jack.
- Wear safety glasses and gloves. Power‑steering fluid is slippery and flammable; keep open flames away.
- Depressurize system before opening high‑pressure lines (engine off). Catch fluid immediately.
- Avoid contamination — keep caps on open lines, use clean rags.
Step‑by‑step procedure

A. Diagnosis (confirm what needs repair)
1. Visual inspection: check for fluid leaks at pump, hoses, cooler, steering gearbox/pitman arm seal, and hose fittings. Look for wet steering box bellows, oil on frame.
2. Check fluid level & condition: low level, foamy or burnt fluid indicates air contamination or overheating. Top up to minimum to prevent pump damage while diagnosing.
3. Belt & pulley: inspect drive belt for wear and proper tension; check pump pulley for wobble.
4. Noise & play: start engine and listen for whining (pump starved) or groaning (bearing issue). With engine off, check steering play at wheel and pitman arm for excessive lash.
5. Pressure test (optional): connect PS pressure gauge to high‑pressure line. Normal pressure figures: consult manual; low pressure indicates pump failure, leaking relief valve; no pressure indicates drive/pulley or pump failure.

B. Pump replacement (most common)
1. Prepare: chock wheels, raise front (if needed) and support on stands. Remove negative battery cable if working near electrical.
2. Drain/catch fluid: place pan under pump, loosen inlet/return hose unions with line wrenches and allow fluid to drain. Cap lines to keep dirt out.
3. Remove drive belt: loosen tensioner or idler and slip off belt.
4. Remove pulley (if replacing pump & pulley not reused): use pulley puller — fit the puller jaws behind pulley lip, thread center forcing bolt against pump shaft, and slowly extract pulley.
5. Unbolt pump: remove mounting bolts, carefully lift pump out. Note hose routing and bracket placement.
6. Transfer fittings/pulley: if reusing pulley or reservoir, transfer parts using appropriate tools. Replace any damaged O‑rings or crush washers at fittings.
7. Install new pump: fit in place, loosely install mounting bolts, then torque to manufacturer spec. Reinstall pulley—if installing a new pulley, press on with a pulley installer or gently drive on to seat (ensure correct orientation).
8. Reconnect hoses: use new crush washers/ O‑rings on banjo fittings; torque to spec. Avoid twisting hoses.
9. Refit belt: set correct belt tension per manual; spin pump by hand to check.

C. Steering gearbox (steering box / pitman arm) replacement
1. Mark orientation: before removal, center the steering wheel and count turns from lock-to-lock or mark position of steering box sector shaft relative to box housing to ensure centering.
2. Disconnect drag link: with front wheels chocked and wheels centered, loosen nut at pitman arm/drag link. Use tie‑rod separator to free the joint — do not hit tie rod stud, use puller to avoid thread/ball damage.
3. Remove pitman arm: use pitman arm puller. Fit puller jaws behind arm, thread center bolt against sector shaft and press arm off. Do not hammer arm off — this damages taper.
4. Disconnect box from frame: remove power steering lines (cap/plug lines immediately), electrical connectors (if any), and mounting bolts. Support box as its heavy.
5. Prepare replacement box: if reusing pitman arm, install on new box or replace pitman arm if worn. Center the replacement box: rotate sector shaft to center position (use counts lock‑to‑lock or match marks made earlier). Many shops rotate box to center before installing pitman arm: with box centered, align pitman arm to match steering wheel center when installed.
6. Install new box: position, tighten mounting bolts to spec, reconnect lines using new crush washers and torque to spec.
7. Install pitman arm onto sector shaft with correct orientation. Torque nut to spec and install cotter pin if applicable.
8. Reattach drag link/center link; torque nuts to spec.

D. Bleeding the system (critical)
1. Fill reservoir to proper level with specified fluid.
2. Pre‑bleed: with engine off, have an assistant turn steering wheel slowly from lock to lock several times (do not hold at stops). Check fluid level and top up as needed. This forces air out of lines.
3. Start engine idle: turn steering gently from lock to lock several times to purge remaining air. Keep reservoir topped up to avoid drawing new air.
4. Cycle under load: with wheels off ground, with assistant gradually turn wheel full range and check for foamy fluid/air bubbles. Refill and repeat until fluid runs clear and steering feels normal.
5. Road test: check for steering return, noises, leaks. Verify no excessive play.
6. Final fluid level: with engine idling and wheel centered, set fluid level to the specified mark.

How to use special tools (brief)
- Pitman arm puller: attach the two jaws behind the arm; thread center bolt onto sector shaft; tighten center bolt to press the tapered pitman arm off the shaft. Use gradual steady force; if stuck, a few drops of penetrating oil and heat on the arm (not the shaft) helps.
- Pulley puller: hooks or jaws engage behind pulley lip; center bolt presses against pump shaft; turn to extract pulley without bending sleeve.
- Line wrenches: grips fitting flats more securely than open end wrenches to prevent rounding off hydraulic union nuts.
- Pressure gauge: disconnect high‑pressure hose, install gauge adapter into high‑pressure port, start engine and read pressure per shop manual. Use to verify pump output and relief valve operation.
- Tie‑rod separator: wedges between ball stud and taper; use a puller tool to separate without striking and damaging threads.

Common pitfalls & how to avoid them
- Not centering the steering box before installing pitman arm — causes off‑center steering and uneven toe. Always center box/steering wheel and use lock‑to‑lock count or service manual centering marks.
- Reusing old crush washers/O‑rings — will likely leak. Always replace sealing washers on high‑pressure fittings.
- Introducing dirt/contaminants into new pump or box — cap lines immediately, work clean, flush system after prolonged contamination.
- Failing to bleed system thoroughly — causes pump cavitation, whining, jerky steering.
- Using wrong fluid — can damage pump/valves. Use the factory‑specified fluid.
- Striking tapered joints to force removal — use correct pullers. Hitting components can damage tapers and require replacement.
- Not torquing fasteners to spec — can lead to leaks or loose mounting. Always use torque wrench and factory values.
Post‑repair checks (final)
- Inspect all fittings and hoses for leaks with engine running and steering cycled.
- Verify steering wheel returns to center and freedom of movement without binding.
- Road test at low speed then higher speed; check for wander, pull, or chatter.
- Check wheel alignment; replace or adjust toe as required after steering component replacement.
- Recheck fluid level after 24–48 hours of operation and add if needed.

Replacement parts summary
- Power steering pump (or rebuild kit)
- Steering gear / steering box (or rebuild kit/seal kit)
- Hoses (pressure & return) and clamps
- Banjo bolts, new crush washers / O‑rings
- Pump pulley & drive belt (if worn)
- Power steering fluid (factory spec)

Finish
Follow the Isuzu workshop manual for exact torque values, line routing, hose clamps, and any model‑specific procedures (electronic steering aids or sensors). Proper centering and bleeding are the two steps technicians most commonly miss — do them carefully.
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