Isuzu Hitachi 4HK1 6HK1 Engine Workshop Manual

- Safety first
- Wear safety glasses, gloves and sturdy shoes; compressed springs and dropped heavy parts can cause serious injury.
- Work on a flat, level surface; engage parking brake and chock at least the rear wheels before lifting.
- Never rely on a jack alone — always support the vehicle on rated jack stands placed under manufacturer recommended lift points.
- If you are unsure about using a spring compressor or the job feels unsafe, buy a preassembled replacement strut or get a shop to do it.

- What a “strut” job is and whether parts must be replaced
- The strut is a structural suspension component made of a shock absorber inside a coil spring and mounts the wheel to the vehicle body.
- Replace the entire strut assembly (preassembled cartridge + spring + top mount) if the shock is leaking, worn (bouncy/sketchy ride), or the mount/bearing is noisy. This is easiest and safest for beginners.
- If you keep your original spring, you must use a spring compressor and usually replace the strut cartridge, top mount/bearing, dust boot, bump stop, and all worn nuts/bolts. This is more complex and higher risk.
- Always get an alignment after replacing struts (toe/camber can change).

- Parts commonly required (what and why)
- Complete front strut assemblies (recommended for beginners) — includes shock, spring, mount and bearing; removes need for a spring compressor.
- Top mount / strut bearing — wears and causes clunking/steering feedback.
- Dust boot and bump stop — protect piston rod; replace if torn or missing.
- New strut-to-knuckle bolts/nuts and upper mounting nuts — hardware stretches/wears and should be replaced if corroded or single-use torque-to-yield.
- Sway-bar link or stabiliser link (if worn) — commonly replaced while you’re there because they’re accessible.
- Anti-seize/threadlocker and new cotter pins if applicable.
- Wheel alignment after installation (shop service).

- Basic tools you should already have and detailed description/use
- Hydraulic floor jack (rated > vehicle weight per axle)
- How to use: position under factory jacking point, pump handle to lift. Always place jack stands before working under vehicle.
- Jack stands (two; rated for vehicle weight)
- How to use: raise vehicle with jack, place stands at designated support points, slowly lower jack until weight rests on stands.
- Wheel chocks
- How to use: wedge behind wheels remaining on ground to prevent rolling.
- Lug wrench or 1/2" drive impact/ratchet & socket for wheel nuts
- How to use: break free lug nuts while car is on ground, then fully remove when wheel is off.
- Metric socket set (deep and shallow) with 1/2" drive ratchet
- How to use: match socket to bolt size; deep sockets help on long studs; use proper drive and extensions to reach bolts.
- Breaker bar (18–24" or longer)
- How to use: used for freeing very tight or rusted bolts; apply steady pressure—don’t use cheater pipes on thin bars.
- Torque wrench (click-type, 1/2" drive, appropriate range)
- How to use: set required torque value, tighten until wrench clicks; used on wheel nuts, strut mounting nuts, and control arm bolts for correct clamping force.
- Spring compressor (external coil spring compressors for struts) — REQUIRED if reusing springs
- How to use: attach compressors opposite each other on the spring coils, tighten both evenly and alternately to slowly relieve tension. Never compress one side only; inspect compressor condition before use. Very dangerous if misused—if you are inexperienced, buy preassembled struts instead.
- Strut nut holding tool / hex key for piston rod (if needed)
- How to use: hold the strut rod from rotating while loosening the top nut; many struts have a hex or Allen recess.
- Ratchet, extension bars and universal joint
- How to use: reach awkward fasteners and work around brake lines.
- Penetrating oil (e.g., PB Blaster)
- How to use: spray on rusty bolts and allow time to soak to ease removal.
- Pry bar / large flat-blade screwdriver
- How to use: leverage to separate strut from knuckle if seized; be careful not to bend components.
- Hammer / rubber mallet
- How to use: tap stuck bolts or knuckle; use rubber mallet to avoid damage.
- Wire or bungee cords / caliper hanger
- How to use: hang brake caliper out of the way without stressing the brake hose.
- Safety gloves and eye protection (reiterated)
- Wire brush and rags
- How to use: clean mating surfaces and threads before reassembly.
- Anti-seize and threadlocker
- How to use: apply anti-seize to bolts prone to corrosion; apply threadlocker where specified by manual.

- Optional but useful tools
- Impact wrench (air or electric)
- Speeds removal of nuts/bolts; still verify torque with a torque wrench.
- Ball joint separator / pickle fork (if ball joint or tie rod ends need released)
- Helps separate seized joints without damaging studs.
- Hydraulic spring compressor or shop service
- Safer, faster, usually available at parts shops if you don’t want to compress springs at home.
- Service manual or OEM torque charts
- Provides model-specific jacking points and torque specs.

- Step-by-step high‑level procedure (for one strut; repeat both sides)
- Prepare vehicle: chock wheels, loosen front wheel lug nuts slightly while car is on ground.
- Raise vehicle and support on jack stands at manufacturer jacking points; remove wheel.
- Inspect components: check sway bar links, control arm bushings, tie rods for wear and note any corroded bolts.
- Unbolt and move brake caliper and rotor out of the way; support caliper so brake hose is not stressed.
- Remove sway-bar link or bracket from strut if it connects there; remove any brake hose/ABS wire brackets from strut.
- Loosen but do not fully remove upper strut nuts under the hood (or top mount area) to keep strut located until lower bolts are removed—then remove upper nuts.
- Remove strut-to-knuckle bolts at the lower end (may be tight/corroded); you may need to support the knuckle/control arm while doing this.
- Take the strut assembly out of the vehicle.
- If using a new complete strut assembly: skip spring compression; install new assembly into upper mount, loosely fit upper nuts, align lower end and insert bolts, then torque all fasteners to spec.
- If reusing spring and replacing cartridge or mounts: safely compress the spring with proper compressors, remove top nut, disassemble, transfer spring to new cartridge or replace mounts, reassemble and slowly release compressor evenly. Inspect spring for cracks.
- Refit assembled strut: position into tower, loosely fit upper nuts, align lower mount and insert bolts, attach sway bar link and brake brackets, tighten and torque lower and upper bolts to the manual specifications.
- Reinstall wheel, lower vehicle onto ground, torque wheel nuts to spec with torque wrench.
- Repeat on the other side. After both sides: road test at low speed then take for professional wheel alignment immediately.

- Torque specs and model specifics
- Torque values and exact jack points vary by model/year and vehicle weight — consult the Isuzu/Hitachi service manual or factory workshop data for exact values. Using incorrect torque can be unsafe.

- Tips and cautions for beginners
- Replace both front struts as a pair — mismatched damping causes poor handling.
- If you do not own or are not comfortable with a spring compressor, buy complete preassembled struts — safer and saves tools/time.
- Keep track of the order and orientation of parts removed; take photos as you go.
- Do not reuse rusty or damaged bolts; replace as needed.
- Expect to spend several hours as a first-timer; don’t rush.
- After completing the job, get a professional wheel alignment—do not skip.

- Disposal and recycling
- Old struts contain hydraulic fluid—dispose of them at an auto-parts recycler or authorized disposal site according to local regulations.

- Final note (short)
- If you want the exact bolt sizes and torque figures for your specific Isuzu model, refer to the OEM workshop manual or a factory service database; buying preassembled struts eliminates the need to manage compressed springs.
rteeqp73

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