Tools & supplies
- Jack, jack stands (rated), wheel chocks
- Safety glasses, nitrile gloves
- Torque wrench (0–150 Nm), inch-lb adapter if available
- Flare nut wrenches (8, 10, 11, 12 mm as needed) / line wrenches
- Tubing cutter (for 3/16" / 4.75 mm brake tube)
- Brake tubing bender (hand bender for 3/16" steel)
- Deburring tool / 1/8" reamer
- Double-flare tool kit (SAE 45° double-flare) or ISO equivalent (use the correct flare type for this vehicle)
- Vice & soft jaws / tube vise or clamps
- Hammer & chisel, wire brush, penetrating oil
- Brake line pliers, retaining-clip tool
- Bench vise (optional)
- Vacuum or pressure brake bleeder / hand pump & clear tubing
- Drain pan, rags, brake cleaner
- New brake line (pre-bent OEM line or cut-to-fit steel line), new flexible hose if needed
- New flare nuts / fittings if corroded, new hose-to-caliper crush washers (if hose/banjo type)
- Brake fluid (DOT specified by vehicle — commonly DOT4; confirm spec) and container for disposal
- Anti-seize (small amount for threads), thread locker only if specified by OEM

Safety & prep
- Park on level ground, chock wheels front-to-rear, block opposite side.
- Do not rely on a jack alone. Use jack stands under the frame.
- Wear eye protection and gloves. Brake fluid is corrosive — avoid skin and paint contact; flush spills immediately.
- Keep master cylinder cap closed as much as possible; clean around cap before opening to avoid contamination.
- Use a drain pan and dispose of fluid per local regulations.

Overview of procedure
1) Identify the exact line(s) to replace: full hard line (steel chassis-to-flexible hose), flexible hose, or a section with corrosion/damage. Where possible, replace with an OEM pre-bent hard line to avoid fabrication errors. If fabricating, you will cut, bend, double-flare and install.

Step-by-step
1. Raise and secure vehicle
- Loosen wheel lug nuts slightly, raise vehicle, secure on jack stands, remove wheel(s) to access line. For rear lines you may only need to access underbody.

2. Reduce system pressure & catch fluid
- Clean around master cylinder cap, remove cap. Using a suction gun or turkey baster remove some fluid to reduce spill. Leave cap loosely on to prevent contamination.
- Place drain pan under area where line will be disconnected. Stuff rags around fittings to catch drips.

3. Locate and free the line
- Trace the line from master cylinder/ABS unit to the caliper/wheel cylinder. Remove any retaining clips or clamps securing the line to chassis or suspension components using appropriate pliers or chisel/punch.
- If rusted, soak fittings with penetrating oil and allow time to work.

4. Disconnect at the easiest access point first
- Use the correct-size flare nut wrench. Seat the wrench fully on the nut, back it off slowly to avoid rounding. If fitting is heavily corroded, apply penetrating oil, lightly tap the wrench with a hammer to break it free.
- If disconnecting a banjo hose at caliper, remove banjo bolt and discard/replace crush washers as required.

5. Remove the damaged line
- Once fittings are undone, remove all clips and pull the line free. If you are replacing a short section, cut out the damaged portion with the tubing cutter and remove; keep fittings if reusing in the same condition only if undamaged.

6. Prepare replacement line (preferred: OEM pre-bent)
- Best practice: fit an OEM pre-bent replacement hard line. If fabricating:
- Measure and mock-fit the new straight tube, leaving extra length for safe bends.
- Clamp tube in vice with soft jaws. Use tubing cutter to cut squarely. Deburr the inside with reamer to remove metal shavings.
- Use tubing bender to make smooth bends—avoid kinks. Make gentle radii; do not overbend. Compare to original for correct routing.
- Clean tube and dry.

7. Making the double flare
- Use double-flare tool: insert tube fully into the correct-size adapter (for 3/16" brake tube), clamp in tool so end is flush with the adapter’s face (check tool instructions).
- Use the flaring tool to form a pilot/cone, then form the double flare using the larger cone. The resulting flare must be concentric, no cracks, correct thickness.
- Inspect the flare with a magnifier: no splits, smooth 45° flare profile. If flawed, cut off, deburr, and redo.

8. Install new line & fittings
- Slide new flare nut onto tube before fitting. Align flared end with mating fitting (do not grease flange surface). Hand-start flare nut threads to avoid cross-threading.
- Tighten with flare nut wrench to the specified torque. Typical brake tube flare nut torque: 18–25 Nm (13–18 ft·lb). Consult factory manual for exact torque.
- Replace any rubber hoses if old/cracked. Replace banjo bolt crush washers with new ones and torque banjo bolt to spec (often ~25–35 Nm — check manual).

9. Secure line routing
- Fit new retaining clips and isolate line from heat and moving parts. Use new clips where old ones are brittle or corroded.
- Ensure proper clearance from exhaust, steering, suspension travel, and that lines are not rubbing.

10. Refill & bleed system
- Top up master cylinder with correct DOT fluid.
- Bleeding sequence: start at wheel farthest from master cylinder and move to nearest (typical sequence: far rear, near rear, far front, near front). For vehicles with ABS, consult the procedure; it may require ABS module bleed or cycling with scan tool.
- Use vacuum/pressure bleeder for best results. If using manual pump, have an assistant pump slowly, open bleeder nipple until no air bubbles appear, then close before the assistant releases pedal.
- Bench-bleed calipers only if replacing caliper/hose assembly.
- Continue bleeding until a firm pedal is achieved and no air is present. Keep master cylinder reservoir filled during the process.

11. Leak check & test
- Inspect every connection for leaks with light pressure (someone gently hold pedal or use bleeder pressure). Tighten any weeping joints.
- Reinstall wheels, lower vehicle, torque wheel nuts to spec.
- Road test at low speed, perform repeated stops to confirm pedal firmness and no leaks. Recheck fittings and fluid level after initial drive.

Common pitfalls & how to avoid them
- Wrong flare type: BT-50 / Ranger use SAE double 45° double flares. Do not use single flares or bubble flares.
- Incorrect flares or cracks: always re-cut and re-do a bad flare. A cracked flare will leak and fail.
- Over-tightening or under-tightening flare nuts: leads to stripped threads or leaks. Use torque wrench and OEM spec where available.
- Twisting/kinking tube when bending: use proper tube bender and enough length for smooth bends.
- Reusing old corroded fittings, clips, crush washers: replace them. Old hardware often leaks.
- Not bench-bleeding or not bleeding ABS properly: results in spongy pedal. If ABS is present and air likely entered the module, run ABS bleed procedure with scan tool if necessary.
- Brake fluid on painted surfaces: immediately rinse with lots of water; fluid will damage paint.
- Unsafe lifting: never work under a car on a jack alone.

Replacement parts typically required
- New steel brake line (OEM pre-bent or new tube to fabricate)
- New flare nuts or union fittings if corroded
- New flexible hose(s) if cracked
- New banjo bolt crush washers (copper/aluminum) for hose-to-caliper
- New retaining clips/brackets as needed
- Brake fluid (DOT spec for vehicle)

Final checks
- Torque all fittings and wheel nuts to spec.
- Verify no leaks cold and after a few stops. Check fluid level again after first test drive.
- Properly dispose of used brake fluid.

That’s the complete workshop-style procedure. Follow OEM torque specs and bleed procedures for the BT-50 / Ranger when available.
rteeqp73

The Best Cheap Used Truck to Buy, Period. The Best Cheap Used Truck to Buy, It's Not the Toyota Tacoma, DIY and truck review with Scotty Kilmer. Top used trucks to buy.

Episode 28 - Steering Box Adjustment 1994 Mazda B-Series/Ford Ranger Welcome! In this episode I adjust the meshload of the steering gear on my 1994 Mazda B3000 "Victoria". The steering wheel had ...

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